I have a customer whose basement flooded. The lower two feet of
drywall were removed from the finished section of the basement. To
simplify rebuilding and reduce possible damage my customer would like
to use something like t1-11 siding where the drywall is now missing.
It would be stained and sealed front and back along with the edges.
Trim would hide the joints at the bottom and where the drywall meets
the t1-11. My concern in doing this work is that this might not comply
with the national building code?

Thank you for any help.

"andyeverett" wrote in message
...
I have a customer whose basement flooded. The lower two feet of
drywall were removed from the finished section of the basement. To
simplify rebuilding and reduce possible damage my customer would like
to use something like t1-11 siding where the drywall is now missing.
It would be stained and sealed front and back along with the edges.
Trim would hide the joints at the bottom and where the drywall meets
the t1-11. My concern in doing this work is that this might not comply
with the national building code?

There's a "national" building code? News to me.

On Apr 28, 9:24*pm, "h" wrote:
"andyeverett" wrote in message

...

I have a customer whose basement flooded. The lower two feet of
drywall were removed from the finished section of the basement. To
simplify rebuilding and reduce possible damage my customer would like
to use something like t1-11 siding where the drywall is now missing.
It would be stained and sealed front and back along with the edges.
Trim would hide the joints at the bottom and where the drywall meets
the t1-11. My concern in doing this work is that this might not comply
with the national building code?

There's a "national" building code? News to me.

There's an international one - the IRC. Most states have adopted the
IRC with some modifications.

R

On Apr 28, 8:23*pm, andyeverett wrote:
I have a customer whose basement flooded. The lower two feet of
drywall were removed from the finished section of the basement. To
simplify rebuilding and reduce possible damage my customer would like
to use something like t1-11 siding where the drywall is now missing.
It would be stained and sealed front and back along with the edges.
Trim would hide the joints at the bottom and where the drywall meets
the t1-11. My concern in doing this work is that this might not comply
with the national building code?

Thank you for any help.

Unless there is a mechanical room enclosure that requires fire-rated
partitioning, or there is plastic foam insulation that is required to
be covered, any covering at all will do.

In lieu of the T-1-11 (think mold, painting and what you'll get for
the $), look into PVC beadboard, such as Azek or other brand. If the
customer is okay with white trim, it doesn't even have to be painted.
This'll get you started: http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=28961

R

RicodJour wrote the following:
On Apr 28, 9:24 pm, "h" wrote:

"andyeverett" wrote in message

...


I have a customer whose basement flooded. The lower two feet of
drywall were removed from the finished section of the basement. To
simplify rebuilding and reduce possible damage my customer would like
to use something like t1-11 siding where the drywall is now missing.
It would be stained and sealed front and back along with the edges.
Trim would hide the joints at the bottom and where the drywall meets
the t1-11. My concern in doing this work is that this might not comply
with the national building code?

There's a "national" building code? News to me.


There's an international one - the IRC. Most states have adopted the
IRC with some modifications.

R


I thought IRC meant Internet Relay Chat.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

On Apr 28, 7:23*pm, andyeverett wrote:
I have a customer whose basement flooded. The lower two feet of
drywall were removed from the finished section of the basement. To
simplify rebuilding and reduce possible damage my customer would like
to use something like t1-11 siding where the drywall is now missing.
It would be stained and sealed front and back along with the edges.
Trim would hide the joints at the bottom and where the drywall meets
the t1-11. My concern in doing this work is that this might not comply
with the national building code?

Thank you for any help.

You need to know the LBC code, or BHBC logic building code and butt
head building code, if its gonna flood why finish the basement. There
is a modular wall system from major manufacturer like maybe Dow or
another insulation maker where panels screw and snap into place that
can be removed and wont be permanently damaged by water if they are
cared for after a flood. How would wood be better than drywall if you
still trap moisture inside, it wont.

On Wed, 28 Apr 2010 17:23:47 -0700 (PDT), andyeverett
wrote:

I have a customer whose basement flooded. The lower two feet of
drywall were removed from the finished section of the basement. To
simplify rebuilding and reduce possible damage my customer would like
to use something like t1-11 siding where the drywall is now missing.
It would be stained and sealed front and back along with the edges.
Trim would hide the joints at the bottom and where the drywall meets
the t1-11. My concern in doing this work is that this might not comply
with the national building code?

Thank you for any help.

You need to contact the local code enforcement people.
Personally, I don't believe it is a good idea as I doubt if the T1-11
is gong to help. It may be worse, hiding mold inside while drywall
will only support mold growth on the paper outside.

Maybe you should consider recommending cement board. Anyone
used that for this use?

wrote:
On Wed, 28 Apr 2010 17:23:47 -0700 (PDT), andyeverett
wrote:

I have a customer whose basement flooded. The lower two feet of
drywall were removed from the finished section of the basement. To
simplify rebuilding and reduce possible damage my customer would like
to use something like t1-11 siding where the drywall is now missing.
It would be stained and sealed front and back along with the edges.
Trim would hide the joints at the bottom and where the drywall meets
the t1-11. My concern in doing this work is that this might not comply
with the national building code?

Thank you for any help.

You need to contact the local code enforcement people.
Personally, I don't believe it is a good idea as I doubt if the T1-11
is gong to help. It may be worse, hiding mold inside while drywall
will only support mold growth on the paper outside.

Maybe you should consider recommending cement board. Anyone
used that for this use?

Before he does anything, he needs to fix the problem. When the flooding
problem is fixed, and the wall is dry, it shouldn't matter what is used
to replace the drywall. BTDT

On Apr 29, 8:36*am, wrote:
On Wed, 28 Apr 2010 17:23:47 -0700 (PDT), andyeverett

wrote:
I have a customer whose basement flooded. The lower two feet of
drywall were removed from the finished section of the basement. To
simplify rebuilding and reduce possible damage my customer would like
to use something like t1-11 siding where the drywall is now missing.
It would be stained and sealed front and back along with the edges.
Trim would hide the joints at the bottom and where the drywall meets
the t1-11. My concern in doing this work is that this might not comply
with the national building code?

Thank you for any help.

* * * * You need to contact the local code enforcement people.
Personally, I don't believe it is a good idea as I doubt if the T1-11
is gong to help. *It may be worse, hiding mold inside while drywall
will only support mold growth on the paper outside.

* * * * Maybe you should consider recommending cement board. *Anyone
used that for this use?

I would not use cement board. It is still porous and heavy.

I think this is a reasonable idea. I could see trying to do it as
well if I had an area that I suspected could possibly flood again.
Here's some thoughts.

If possible do not insulate the area. Move all utilities above the
line. A non-porous or composite material would be best. If you do
use wood prime and paint all ends and sides. Come up with a solution
that makes the lower panels removable so in a future flood they can be
removed to allow drying. Or hinge them at the top.

"andyeverett" wrote in message
...

I have a customer whose basement flooded. The lower two feet of
drywall were removed from the finished section of the basement. To
simplify rebuilding and reduce possible damage my customer would like
to use something like t1-11 siding where the drywall is now missing.
It would be stained and sealed front and back along with the edges.
Trim would hide the joints at the bottom and where the drywall meets
the t1-11. My concern in doing this work is that this might not comply
with the national building code?

Building codes are policed by municipal or other local authorities
(not states or countries.) In most places, only the Fire Code part
of the building code is retroactive and enforcible on repairs. The
nearest city hall office that issues building permits can advise you.

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)

On Thu, 29 Apr 2010 03:57:52 -0700 (PDT), ransley
wrote:

On Apr 28, 7:23Â*pm, andyeverett wrote:
I have a customer whose basement flooded. The lower two feet of
drywall were removed from the finished section of the basement. To
simplify rebuilding and reduce possible damage my customer would like
to use something like t1-11 siding where the drywall is now missing.
It would be stained and sealed front and back along with the edges.
Trim would hide the joints at the bottom and where the drywall meets
the t1-11. My concern in doing this work is that this might not comply
with the national building code?

Thank you for any help.

You need to know the LBC code, or BHBC logic building code and butt
head building code, if its gonna flood why finish the basement. There
is a modular wall system from major manufacturer like maybe Dow or
another insulation maker where panels screw and snap into place that
can be removed and wont be permanently damaged by water if they are
cared for after a flood. How would wood be better than drywall if you
still trap moisture inside, it wont.
You ever price that crap? Fabric covered Fiberglass Pink insulation
board - a 10X13 basement, the quote was over twenty four THOUSAND
dollars. (installed).
My daughter started laughing so hard when they gave her the price she
had tears in her eyes.

On Apr 29, 8:56*pm, wrote:
On Thu, 29 Apr 2010 03:57:52 -0700 (PDT), ransley





wrote:
On Apr 28, 7:23*pm, andyeverett wrote:
I have a customer whose basement flooded. The lower two feet of
drywall were removed from the finished section of the basement. To
simplify rebuilding and reduce possible damage my customer would like
to use something like t1-11 siding where the drywall is now missing.
It would be stained and sealed front and back along with the edges.
Trim would hide the joints at the bottom and where the drywall meets
the t1-11. My concern in doing this work is that this might not comply
with the national building code?

Thank you for any help.

You need to know the LBC code, or BHBC logic building code and butt
head building code, if its gonna flood why finish the basement. There
is a modular wall system from major manufacturer like maybe Dow or
another insulation maker where panels screw and snap into place that
can be removed and wont be permanently damaged by water if they are
cared for after a flood. How would wood be better than drywall if you
still trap moisture inside, it wont.

*You ever price that crap? Fabric covered Fiberglass Pink insulation
board - a 10X13 basement, the quote was over twenty four THOUSAND
dollars. (installed).
My daughter started laughing so hard when they gave her the price she
had tears in her eyes.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I used foamboard screwed in place so I can remove it if I ever get a
mold smell, so I can the find any problems, 6 years and its fine with
no mold. 24k wow I didnt know.