My backyard is higher than my neighbor in behind me. To keep the
ground level, there is a three foot retaining wall at the back of the
yard, which is only a few inches from the fence. The wall is built
from 6x6's, and is not normally visible (even the top of the wall is
hidden by bushes and flowers in front of it.

The problem is that the 6x6's appear to have started to rot. I
imagine they were put in place when the house was built 25 years ago.
This year, the neighbor's want to rebuild the fence, so I was thinking
of replacing the retaining wall at the same time to give easier
access. It doesn't have to be pretty, just functional, and as long
lasting as possible (and preferably fast to build without breaking the
bank). The wall is about 25m (around 90') long, and I live in Canada,
so there's lots of freezing and thawing going on.

I'm wondering if I should consider concrete, brick, or wood again (and
what the advantages are), and if anyone has any advice that I might
not have thought of.


Thanks

John

On Apr 21, 11:07*am, John wrote:
My backyard is higher than my neighbor in behind me. *To keep the
ground level, there is a three foot retaining wall at the back of the
yard, which is only a few inches from the fence. *The wall is built
from 6x6's, and is not normally visible (even the top of the wall is
hidden by bushes and flowers in front of it.

The problem is that the 6x6's appear to have started to rot. *I
imagine they were put in place when the house was built 25 years ago.
This year, the neighbor's want to rebuild the fence, so I was thinking
of replacing the retaining wall at the same time to give easier
access. *It doesn't have to be pretty, just functional, and as long
lasting as possible (and preferably fast to build without breaking the
bank). *The wall is about 25m (around 90') long, and I live in Canada,
so there's lots of freezing and thawing going on.

I'm wondering if I should consider concrete, brick, or wood again (and
what the advantages are), and if anyone has any advice that I might
not have thought of.

Thanks

John

If it's only 3 feet, you might consider just dumping some soil to make
a transition slope on your neighbor's property. Since it's on his
border, he'll likely just have plants there anyway.

The slope will allow for a higher fence.

On Apr 21, 7:07�pm, John wrote:
My backyard is higher than my neighbor in behind me. �To keep the
ground level, there is a three foot retaining wall at the back of the
yard, which is only a few inches from the fence. �The wall is built
from 6x6's, and is not normally visible (even the top of the wall is
hidden by bushes and flowers in front of it.

The problem is that the 6x6's appear to have started to rot. �I
imagine they were put in place when the house was built 25 years ago.
This year, the neighbor's want to rebuild the fence, so I was thinking
of replacing the retaining wall at the same time to give easier
access. �It doesn't have to be pretty, just functional, and as long
lasting as possible (and preferably fast to build without breaking the
bank). �The wall is about 25m (around 90') long, and I live in Canada,
so there's lots of freezing and thawing going on.

I'm wondering if I should consider concrete, brick, or wood again (and
what the advantages are), and if anyone has any advice that I might
not have thought of.

Thanks

John
Wood is cheap and non-permanent as you have discovered. You might be
able to get some old railway ties.
The cheapest permanent solution is poured concrete if there is access
to have it delivered. You would need to rig up shuttering. There are
several technologies. If no access you would need an expensive
concrete pump.
Or build out of concrete blocks. You would still need a substantial
foundation. This would be a gravity wall, the usual thing is to make
the thickness 1/4 of the hieght.

On Apr 21, 2:17�pm, mike wrote:
On Apr 21, 11:07�am, John wrote:





My backyard is higher than my neighbor in behind me. �To keep the
ground level, there is a three foot retaining wall at the back of the
yard, which is only a few inches from the fence. �The wall is built
from 6x6's, and is not normally visible (even the top of the wall is
hidden by bushes and flowers in front of it.

The problem is that the 6x6's appear to have started to rot. �I
imagine they were put in place when the house was built 25 years ago.
This year, the neighbor's want to rebuild the fence, so I was thinking
of replacing the retaining wall at the same time to give easier
access. �It doesn't have to be pretty, just functional, and as long
lasting as possible (and preferably fast to build without breaking the
bank). �The wall is about 25m (around 90') long, and I live in Canada,
so there's lots of freezing and thawing going on.

I'm wondering if I should consider concrete, brick, or wood again (and
what the advantages are), and if anyone has any advice that I might
not have thought of.

Thanks

John

If it's only 3 feet, you might consider just dumping some soil to make
a transition slope on your neighbor's property. �Since it's on his
border, he'll likely just have plants there anyway.

The slope will allow for a higher fence.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yeah the FOREVER SOLUTION, go to the angle of natural repose. Thats
what rail roads do.

Walls can look pretty, but require permanent work.

low maintence is far better, just plant some good ground cover on the
slope and forget about it!

"John" wrote in message
...
My backyard is higher than my neighbor in behind me. To keep the
ground level, there is a three foot retaining wall at the back of the
yard, which is only a few inches from the fence. The wall is built
from 6x6's, and is not normally visible (even the top of the wall is
hidden by bushes and flowers in front of it.

The problem is that the 6x6's appear to have started to rot. I
imagine they were put in place when the house was built 25 years ago.
This year, the neighbor's want to rebuild the fence, so I was thinking
of replacing the retaining wall at the same time to give easier
access. It doesn't have to be pretty, just functional, and as long
lasting as possible (and preferably fast to build without breaking the
bank). The wall is about 25m (around 90') long, and I live in Canada,
so there's lots of freezing and thawing going on.

I'm wondering if I should consider concrete, brick, or wood again (and
what the advantages are), and if anyone has any advice that I might
not have thought of.


Thanks

John

Nothing is permanent!

At the back of my yard I really like the suggestion made by some one to just
add dirt to create a natural grade.

If you have to build a wall as I had to a few years back, I would bite the
bullet and use the heavy duty wall blocks laid on a compressed bed compacted
road grade fill. We call that DGA here but I have no clue what it is called
in Canada. I actually poured a footer for mine instead of using the DGA
because I had an anal neighbor that I had to assure that her house was not
going to slide down the hill.

Using concrete or concrete blocks will not allow the trapped water to
escape. My detailed studies at the time I did mine indicated that the dry
laid blocks which allowed natural drainage of water were a superior product.
I think the brand I purchased was Lee Blocks and I think they have a website
under that name.

None of the treated wood sold today is anywhere near as good as the old
stuff. High quality used RR ties are probably still your cheapest, fastest
option.


--
Colbyt
Please come visit http://www.househomerepair.com

On Wed, 21 Apr 2010 16:59:34 -0400, "Colbyt"
wrote:


Using concrete or concrete blocks will not allow the trapped water to
escape.

Doesn'that depend on the water table? There is still no bottom to the
yard, and if the water table is normally below the bottom of the wall,
it will go down and escape that way. Even if it is not below the
bottom of the wall, water will go down to the water table and spread
out, eventually going around the wall.

But maybe I'm wrong.

My detailed studies at the time I did mine indicated that the dry
laid blocks which allowed natural drainage of water were a superior product.
I think the brand I purchased was Lee Blocks and I think they have a website
under that name.

None of the treated wood sold today is anywhere near as good as the old
stuff. High quality used RR ties are probably still your cheapest, fastest
option.

"mm" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 21 Apr 2010 16:59:34 -0400, "Colbyt"
wrote:


Using concrete or concrete blocks will not allow the trapped water to
escape.

Doesn'that depend on the water table? There is still no bottom to the
yard, and if the water table is normally below the bottom of the wall,
it will go down and escape that way. Even if it is not below the
bottom of the wall, water will go down to the water table and spread
out, eventually going around the wall.

But maybe I'm wrong.

My detailed studies at the time I did mine indicated that the dry
laid blocks which allowed natural drainage of water were a superior
product.
I think the brand I purchased was Lee Blocks and I think they have a
website
under that name.

None of the treated wood sold today is anywhere near as good as the old
stuff. High quality used RR ties are probably still your cheapest, fastest
option.


During heavy rain or in the spring when the ground is still frozen and
things are melting the cement wall will indeed hold back water...HTH...

On Apr 21, 2:07*pm, John wrote:
My backyard is higher than my neighbor in behind me. *To keep the
ground level, there is a three foot retaining wall at the back of the
yard, which is only a few inches from the fence. *The wall is built
from 6x6's, and is not normally visible (even the top of the wall is
hidden by bushes and flowers in front of it.

The problem is that the 6x6's appear to have started to rot. *I
imagine they were put in place when the house was built 25 years ago.
This year, the neighbor's want to rebuild the fence, so I was thinking
of replacing the retaining wall at the same time to give easier
access. *It doesn't have to be pretty, just functional, and as long
lasting as possible (and preferably fast to build without breaking the
bank). *The wall is about 25m (around 90') long, and I live in Canada,
so there's lots of freezing and thawing going on.

I'm wondering if I should consider concrete, brick, or wood again (and
what the advantages are), and if anyone has any advice that I might
not have thought of.

Thanks

John


This sounds like a very good situation to use a precast concrete
masonry unit retaining wall system...

The blocks interlock with each other using plastic pegs, you have
to prepare the base properly with the correct sand and gravel mix
and you would have to install drainage pipes through the wall to
allow for water to drain... You would use landscape fabric and
gravel behind the wall...

~~ Evan

On Apr 21, 11:07*am, John wrote:
My backyard is higher than my neighbor in behind me. *To keep the
ground level, there is a three foot retaining wall at the back of the
yard, which is only a few inches from the fence. *The wall is built
from 6x6's, and is not normally visible (even the top of the wall is
hidden by bushes and flowers in front of it.

The problem is that the 6x6's appear to have started to rot. *I
imagine they were put in place when the house was built 25 years ago.
This year, the neighbor's want to rebuild the fence, so I was thinking
of replacing the retaining wall at the same time to give easier
access. *It doesn't have to be pretty, just functional, and as long
lasting as possible (and preferably fast to build without breaking the
bank). *The wall is about 25m (around 90') long, and I live in Canada,
so there's lots of freezing and thawing going on.

I'm wondering if I should consider concrete, brick, or wood again (and
what the advantages are), and if anyone has any advice that I might
not have thought of.

Thanks

John

John-

Budget? Time horizon?

If it was my yard in SoCal, I'd go with a fully grouted 8" block wall.
But we don't have the frost issues.

I built had my block wall built with an "I" style foundation 14" x
34" because I wanted to minimize foundation intrusion into the yard.

In order to assure longevity and good performance a block wall in your
yard would suggest using an engineer or maybe your local building dept
has "stock plans / deign guidelines". Providing for drainage is key
as well..... otherwise the wall could suffer lateral frost heave.

Just a WAG here...... ~ 350 8x8x16 blocks, ~20 yds of concrete
concrete for footing, ~2.5 ys of grout, ~600 lbs of steel

The idea of a natural slope is sounding better & better.

As others have posted, high quality used RR ties are probably your
best bet.

Where in Canada are you located?

cheers
Bob

DD_BobK wrote:
On Apr 21, 11:07 am, John wrote:
My backyard is higher than my neighbor in behind me. To keep the
ground level, there is a three foot retaining wall at the back of the
yard, which is only a few inches from the fence. The wall is built
from 6x6's, and is not normally visible (even the top of the wall is
hidden by bushes and flowers in front of it.

The problem is that the 6x6's appear to have started to rot. I
imagine they were put in place when the house was built 25 years ago.
This year, the neighbor's want to rebuild the fence, so I was thinking
of replacing the retaining wall at the same time to give easier
access. It doesn't have to be pretty, just functional, and as long
lasting as possible (and preferably fast to build without breaking the
bank). The wall is about 25m (around 90') long, and I live in Canada,
so there's lots of freezing and thawing going on.

I'm wondering if I should consider concrete, brick, or wood again (and
what the advantages are), and if anyone has any advice that I might
not have thought of.

Thanks

John

John-

Budget? Time horizon?

If it was my yard in SoCal, I'd go with a fully grouted 8" block wall.
But we don't have the frost issues.

I built had my block wall built with an "I" style foundation 14" x
34" because I wanted to minimize foundation intrusion into the yard.

In order to assure longevity and good performance a block wall in your
yard would suggest using an engineer or maybe your local building dept
has "stock plans / deign guidelines". Providing for drainage is key
as well..... otherwise the wall could suffer lateral frost heave.

Just a WAG here...... ~ 350 8x8x16 blocks, ~20 yds of concrete
concrete for footing, ~2.5 ys of grout, ~600 lbs of steel

The idea of a natural slope is sounding better & better.

As others have posted, high quality used RR ties are probably your
best bet.

Where in Canada are you located?

cheers
Bob

Tamped gravel footer, and the dry-stack blocks with the ridges or raised
bumps, such the the wall slopes against the load forces, are the usual
practice here in Baja Ontario (AKA Michigan). The fussy people backfill
with gravel and landscaping cloth, to keep dirt from washing through the
wall. You can always put a drain tile in the backfill, drained to
daylight with Tee fittings poked through holes hammered into the bottom
course of block. Hydrostatic pressure or slump should not be much of
concern on a wall that short.

--
aem sends...