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Default running wire perpindicular to floor joists

I started my re-wiring project and want to avoid drilling my
undersized 2x8 joists. So I started by running wire along the joist
above the panel to the center beam. I then ran the wire along the
side of the beam til I got to the joist I needed to run the wire back
out.

Well after doing only four circuits I realized that this was not going
to work. I will quickly fill up both sides of the beam by stapling to
the sides of it. Looked at an interesting product from Arlington but
at $4 a foot a little too pricey.
http://www.arlcatalog.com/Communicat...t%20System.htm

So I called my friendly neighborhood inspector and explained the
problem he said I could do this:
1 Staple all the wires running perpindicular to the bottom of the
joists.
2 Put furring strips on either side of the run of wires
3 Put drywall from strip to strip to protect the wires

I was a little surprised that I could simply 'build a box' around the
wires but happy that it will be a lot eaiser to run my wires. It
never hurts to call and ask a question...
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Default running wire perpindicular to floor joists

Limp Arbor wrote:
I started my re-wiring project and want to avoid drilling my
undersized 2x8 joists. So I started by running wire along the joist
above the panel to the center beam. I then ran the wire along the
side of the beam til I got to the joist I needed to run the wire back
out.


You may want to avoid drilling, but the strength is basically at the top
and bottom. Holes in the center essentially don't affect strength.

Another way to do the wiring is to put multiple circuits in PVC or
thinwall conduit and run them to J-boxes at appropriate locations. (You
need to know what the derating rules are.)

Well after doing only four circuits I realized that this was not going
to work. I will quickly fill up both sides of the beam by stapling to
the sides of it. Looked at an interesting product from Arlington but
at $4 a foot a little too pricey.
http://www.arlcatalog.com/Communicat...t%20System.htm


Would think if as many cables are installed as shown they would get hot
and run afoul of "where ... multiconductor cables are installed without
maintaining spacing for a continuous length longer than 24 in. ... the
allowable ampacity of each conductor shall be reduced..." (310.15-B-2)

So I called my friendly neighborhood inspector and explained the
problem he said I could do this:
1 Staple all the wires running perpindicular to the bottom of the
joists.
2 Put furring strips on either side of the run of wires
3 Put drywall from strip to strip to protect the wires

I was a little surprised that I could simply 'build a box' around the
wires but happy that it will be a lot eaiser to run my wires. It
never hurts to call and ask a question...


Most inspectors can be real helpful if you basically know what you are
doing.

--
bud--
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Default running wire perpindicular to floor joists

On Apr 19, 5:04*pm, bud-- wrote:
Limp Arbor wrote:
I started my re-wiring project and want to avoid drilling my
undersized 2x8 joists. *So I started by running wire along the joist
above the panel to the center beam. *I then ran the wire along the
side of the beam til I got to the joist I needed to run the wire back
out.


You may want to avoid drilling, but the strength is basically at the top
and bottom. Holes in the center essentially don't affect strength.

Another way to do the wiring is to put multiple circuits in PVC or
thinwall conduit and run them to J-boxes at appropriate locations. (You
need to know what the derating rules are.)

Well after doing only four circuits I realized that this was not going
to work. *I will quickly fill up both sides of the beam by stapling to
the sides of it. *Looked at an interesting product from Arlington but
at $4 a foot a little too pricey.
http://www.arlcatalog.com/Communicat...e%20Runway%20S...


Would think if as many cables are installed as shown they would get hot
and run afoul of "where ... multiconductor cables are installed without
maintaining spacing for a continuous length longer than 24 in. ... the
allowable ampacity of each conductor shall be reduced..." (310.15-B-2)

So I called my friendly neighborhood inspector and explained the
problem he said I could do this:
1 Staple all the wires running perpindicular to the bottom of the
joists.
2 Put furring strips on either side of the run of wires
3 Put drywall from strip to strip to protect the wires


I was a little surprised that I could simply 'build a box' around the
wires but happy that it will be a lot eaiser to run my wires. *It
never hurts to call and ask a question...


Most inspectors can be real helpful if you basically know what you are
doing.

--
bud--


I was just in an attic in a friends house. The house is 5 years old.
In the attic, the wiring for a couple of lights, outlets etc is just
romex and it run over the top of and perpendicular the roof cross ties
or whatever you call them that are at about or just above head level.
I didn't really check, but I don't think it's even stapled down at
regular intervals. It didn't look Kosher to me.

Regaring Limp Arbor's situation, I always thought you could just nail
up some shingle rib perpendicular to the joists and then staple romex
to it. I'm curious why the inspector wanted it covered in sheet
rock? Wouldn't seem to be any different than stapling it to the
center beam, no?
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Default running wire perpindicular to floor joists

On Apr 22, 12:36*pm, wrote:
On Apr 19, 5:04*pm, bud-- wrote:





Limp Arbor wrote:
I started my re-wiring project and want to avoid drilling my
undersized 2x8 joists. *So I started by running wire along the joist
above the panel to the center beam. *I then ran the wire along the
side of the beam til I got to the joist I needed to run the wire back
out.


You may want to avoid drilling, but the strength is basically at the top
and bottom. Holes in the center essentially don't affect strength.


Another way to do the wiring is to put multiple circuits in PVC or
thinwall conduit and run them to J-boxes at appropriate locations. (You
need to know what the derating rules are.)


Well after doing only four circuits I realized that this was not going
to work. *I will quickly fill up both sides of the beam by stapling to
the sides of it. *Looked at an interesting product from Arlington but
at $4 a foot a little too pricey.
http://www.arlcatalog.com/Communicat...e%20Runway%20S....


Would think if as many cables are installed as shown they would get hot
and run afoul of "where ... multiconductor cables are installed without
maintaining spacing for a continuous length longer than 24 in. ... the
allowable ampacity of each conductor shall be reduced..." (310.15-B-2)


So I called my friendly neighborhood inspector and explained the
problem he said I could do this:
1 Staple all the wires running perpindicular to the bottom of the
joists.
2 Put furring strips on either side of the run of wires
3 Put drywall from strip to strip to protect the wires


I was a little surprised that I could simply 'build a box' around the
wires but happy that it will be a lot eaiser to run my wires. *It
never hurts to call and ask a question...


Most inspectors can be real helpful if you basically know what you are
doing.


--
bud--


I was just in an attic in a friends house. *The house is 5 years old.
In the attic, the wiring for a couple of lights, outlets etc is just
romex and it run over the top of and perpendicular the roof cross ties
or whatever you call them that are at about or just above head level.
I didn't really check, but I don't think it's even stapled down at
regular intervals. *It didn't look Kosher to me.

Regaring Limp Arbor's situation, I always thought you could just nail
up some shingle rib perpendicular to the joists and then staple romex
to it. *I'm curious why the inspector wanted it covered in sheet
rock? * Wouldn't seem to be any different than stapling it to the
center beam, no?



He only said I needed to cover it if it was stapled underneath and
perindicular to the joists. If I stapled it to the side of a joist or
to the sill plate no need to cover it. I also could drill through the
joists and not cover it.

I guess the theory is that if the wire is running through holes in the
joists no way it can be pulled down. And with support underneath the
wire also less likely to be pulled down than if it was just stapled.
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