Home Repair (alt.home.repair) For all homeowners and DIYers with many experienced tradesmen. Solve your toughest home fix-it problems.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
Dave Bonnell
 
Posts: n/a
Default Uneven floor joists....installing new floor covering...2 problems.

Hi all,

I am looking for a bit of advice on how to fix a flooring problem. I
want to install some new flooring (good vinyl or laminate) in my
kitchen. The cupboards/counters form a U-shape around the problem
area, which is about 5' by 10'. 8" Joists are running parallel to the
10' section.

Although I haven't done any extensive measurements, it appears that
two of the joists have a slight arc and are slightly higher than the
surrounding joists. It is possible that the surrounding joists are
too low. In either case, I have a wide hump across the floor. This
may be ok for vinyl, but it isn't suitable for laminate/ceramic and
certainly isn't very aesthetically pleasing.

To fix the problem, I am considering removing the old vinyl (house is
about 6 years old, but the vinyl is in horrible shape), cutting away
the 5/8" plywood subfloor in the problem area, and manually planing
down the offending joists. Because it is such a small space, I cannot
remove the full sheet of plywood without first removing the
cabinets/sink/etc....which I definitely do not want to do at this
point.

I was thinking of using a reciprocating saw to cut the subfloor from
below (exposed joists in the basement). This would allow removing a
section of the subfloor without ripping up an entire sheet of plywood.
Once the joists were "corrected", I would drop in a piece of plywood
(cut to fit). I plan on tacking up some 2x6 to the joists (flush with
the top) to provide a solid surface to screw the new subfloor down.

Finally, some levelling compound of some sort might be in order.

My 2nd problem....the floor doesn't seem to be particularly
solid....jumping (or simply 'bouncing' without leaving the floor)
causes items in the room to shake....particularly at the top of a tall
bookcase in the room. I am concerned that this might prevent me from
installing laminate/hardwood. I am considering adding an extra 3/8"
surface to the entire area (approx. 400 sq. ft.), but don't know if
this will buy me anything in terms of a more solid floor. Any
opinions? As I said, joists are 8", and the span is probably 10'.
I could do some cross-bracing of the joists from below, but again, I
don't know if that will result in a more stable floor.

Thanks in advance,
Dave
  #2   Report Post  
Punch
 
Posts: n/a
Default Uneven floor joists....installing new floor covering...2 problems.


"Dave Bonnell" wrote in message
om...
Hi all,

I am looking for a bit of advice on how to fix a flooring problem. I
want to install some new flooring (good vinyl or laminate) in my
kitchen. The cupboards/counters form a U-shape around the problem
area, which is about 5' by 10'. 8" Joists are running parallel to the
10' section.

Although I haven't done any extensive measurements, it appears that
two of the joists have a slight arc and are slightly higher than the
surrounding joists. It is possible that the surrounding joists are
too low. In either case, I have a wide hump across the floor. This
may be ok for vinyl, but it isn't suitable for laminate/ceramic and
certainly isn't very aesthetically pleasing.

To fix the problem, I am considering removing the old vinyl (house is
about 6 years old, but the vinyl is in horrible shape), cutting away
the 5/8" plywood subfloor in the problem area, and manually planing
down the offending joists. Because it is such a small space, I cannot
remove the full sheet of plywood without first removing the
cabinets/sink/etc....which I definitely do not want to do at this
point.

I was thinking of using a reciprocating saw to cut the subfloor from
below (exposed joists in the basement). This would allow removing a
section of the subfloor without ripping up an entire sheet of plywood.
Once the joists were "corrected", I would drop in a piece of plywood
(cut to fit). I plan on tacking up some 2x6 to the joists (flush with
the top) to provide a solid surface to screw the new subfloor down.

Finally, some levelling compound of some sort might be in order.

My 2nd problem....the floor doesn't seem to be particularly
solid....jumping (or simply 'bouncing' without leaving the floor)
causes items in the room to shake....particularly at the top of a tall
bookcase in the room. I am concerned that this might prevent me from
installing laminate/hardwood. I am considering adding an extra 3/8"
surface to the entire area (approx. 400 sq. ft.), but don't know if
this will buy me anything in terms of a more solid floor. Any
opinions? As I said, joists are 8", and the span is probably 10'.
I could do some cross-bracing of the joists from below, but again, I
don't know if that will result in a more stable floor.

Thanks in advance,


umm remove the old floor covering , get some levelling compound and poor it
onto the floor, wait for it to dry install new flooring.



  #3   Report Post  
Mike Dobony
 
Posts: n/a
Default Uneven floor joists....installing new floor covering...2 problems.


"Dave Bonnell" wrote in message
om...
Hi all,

I am looking for a bit of advice on how to fix a flooring problem. I
want to install some new flooring (good vinyl or laminate) in my
kitchen. The cupboards/counters form a U-shape around the problem
area, which is about 5' by 10'. 8" Joists are running parallel to the
10' section.

Although I haven't done any extensive measurements, it appears that
two of the joists have a slight arc and are slightly higher than the
surrounding joists. It is possible that the surrounding joists are
too low. In either case, I have a wide hump across the floor. This
may be ok for vinyl, but it isn't suitable for laminate/ceramic and
certainly isn't very aesthetically pleasing.

To fix the problem, I am considering removing the old vinyl (house is
about 6 years old, but the vinyl is in horrible shape), cutting away
the 5/8" plywood subfloor in the problem area, and manually planing
down the offending joists. Because it is such a small space, I cannot
remove the full sheet of plywood without first removing the
cabinets/sink/etc....which I definitely do not want to do at this
point.

I was thinking of using a reciprocating saw to cut the subfloor from
below (exposed joists in the basement). This would allow removing a
section of the subfloor without ripping up an entire sheet of plywood.
Once the joists were "corrected", I would drop in a piece of plywood
(cut to fit). I plan on tacking up some 2x6 to the joists (flush with
the top) to provide a solid surface to screw the new subfloor down.


Cut your plywood first and use it as a template to cut the floor from above.
Use a circular saw that is adjusted to cut just deep enough to cut the
plywood floor. Cut just inside the lines you drew.

You didn't mention any underlayment. Do you have any underlayment?

Finally, some levelling compound of some sort might be in order.

My 2nd problem....the floor doesn't seem to be particularly
solid....jumping (or simply 'bouncing' without leaving the floor)
causes items in the room to shake....particularly at the top of a tall
bookcase in the room. I am concerned that this might prevent me from
installing laminate/hardwood. I am considering adding an extra 3/8"
surface to the entire area (approx. 400 sq. ft.), but don't know if
this will buy me anything in terms of a more solid floor. Any
opinions? As I said, joists are 8", and the span is probably 10'.
I could do some cross-bracing of the joists from below, but again, I
don't know if that will result in a more stable floor.


Are they at 16" or 24" centers? Sounds like the contractor may have gone
cheap. You may need to either nail extra 2x8's on the side of the existing
boards.

--
Mike D.

www.stopassaultnow.org

Remove .spamnot to respond by email


Thanks in advance,
Dave



---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.532 / Virus Database: 326 - Release Date: 10/27/2003


  #4   Report Post  
Dave Bonnell
 
Posts: n/a
Default Uneven floor joists....installing new floor covering...2 problems.

Mike,

That sounds reasonable, and was actually my first idea. I mentioned
using a recip saw from below because of the (potential) close
proximity to the kitchen cabinets. I am left-handed and tend to shy
away from circular saws as a result...but I'm sure I can make an
exception in this case.

The joists *average* 16" centers, but that could vary by an inch or
two depending on the joist....and there's no doubt that the
contractors went cheap (and fast). It looks like there's about 1/2"
elevation change over the span of 4'. Levelling compound just won't
cut it (I think).

I checked the rest of the floor, and there are some minor variations
(maybe 1/16" - 1/8" over a 4' span, depending on the direction. I
hope that a levelling compound *will* be able to compensate for this,
but I need to do a bit more research.

There appears to be nothing but 5/8" plywood nailed to the joists. No
other membrane or layer that I can see (so no underlayment).

In terms of stability, should I put another layer of subfloor down
(maybe an extra 3/8" to 1/2")? If so, I guess I should apply a
levelling compound first to correct the minor variations, then add the
plywood, and possibly more compound after that....I think this may get
expensive!!

Cheers,
Dave


Are they at 16" or 24" centers? Sounds like the contractor may have gone
cheap. You may need to either nail extra 2x8's on the side of the existing
boards.

--
Mike D.

  #5   Report Post  
TinMan1332
 
Posts: n/a
Default Uneven floor joists....installing new floor covering...2 problems.

umm remove the old floor covering , get some levelling compound and poor it
onto the floor, wait for it to dry install new flooring.


You did read the part about the floor flexing? Self leveling compounds have
many limits and this would be one of them.

J.P.


  #6   Report Post  
William Morris
 
Posts: n/a
Default OT reply: Uneven floor joists....installing new floor covering...2 problems.

Dave,

That sounds reasonable, and was actually my first idea. I mentioned
using a recip saw from below because of the (potential) close
proximity to the kitchen cabinets. I am left-handed and tend to shy
away from circular saws as a result...but I'm sure I can make an
exception in this case.


Just a side note...

Like you, I'm corrie-fisted. Last spring I built a deck - actually rebuilt
and expanded to two levels the deck I had. Lots and lots of circular saw
work. Best thing I ever did was take some scrap out of my bin and get
comfortable using the saw with my right hand. I really surprised myself at
how fast I made the transition - I did the same thing with pounding nails -
and I can now, with a refresher on a scrap or two now and then, use the saw
with either hand.

Best,

- Wm



--
William Morris, Tailor
Seamlyne Reproductions
http://www.seamlyne.com


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Problems Drilling Holes - Installing New Cabinet Pulls Brian Woodworking 8 July 14th 04 05:52 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 12:13 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"