This is actually a two-parter but I'll post the second question
separately.
My GF has a deep well with a submersible pump and a pressure
tank that is probably 30 years old. Lately, the pump cycles
constantly when she runs the water, or does a wash . I think that can
only mean one thing- that the bladder has ruptured and the tank is
waterlogged.
I have told her this constant cycling will dramatically reduce
the life of the pump over time which will be one huge expense for her.
Am I correct that (a) constant cycling shortens the life of the
pump and (b) the cause in this case is probably a waterlogged pressure
tank?
Thanks for help.
Frank
P.S. I will have access to the tank in a few days. Maybe an easy
way to tell is to press the valve stem and see if water comes out?

frank1492 wrote:
....

Am I correct that (a) constant cycling shortens the life of the
pump and (b) the cause in this case is probably a waterlogged pressure
tank?
....

Yes and yes...

If it's not completely full on the air side (of water, that is) and
there's not a very big leak you may gain some time by draining fully and
then repressurizing to the proper setpoint pressure.

If successful it'll stop the incessant cycling and last a few days to
weeks...

--

But I guess you are saying get a new one ASAP?
(Thanks for your help.)




On Tue, 06 Apr 2010 19:35:17 -0500, dpb wrote:

frank1492 wrote:
...

Am I correct that (a) constant cycling shortens the life of the
pump and (b) the cause in this case is probably a waterlogged pressure
tank?
...

Yes and yes...

If it's not completely full on the air side (of water, that is) and
there's not a very big leak you may gain some time by draining fully and
then repressurizing to the proper setpoint pressure.

If successful it'll stop the incessant cycling and last a few days to
weeks...

On 4/6/2010 8:49 PM, frank1492 wrote:
But I guess you are saying get a new one ASAP?
(Thanks for your help.)




On Tue, 06 Apr 2010 19:35:17 -0500, wrote:

frank1492 wrote:
...

Am I correct that (a) constant cycling shortens the life of the
pump and (b) the cause in this case is probably a waterlogged pressure
tank?
...

Yes and yes...

If it's not completely full on the air side (of water, that is) and
there's not a very big leak you may gain some time by draining fully and
then repressurizing to the proper setpoint pressure.

If successful it'll stop the incessant cycling and last a few days to
weeks...


I'd say yes but as dpb suggests you could defer temporarily by adding
air. If bladder is broken it will not last long. I've replaced 2 in
house's 35 year life because they leaked.

frank1492 wrote:
But I guess you are saying get a new one ASAP?
....
Well, a new one is likely in your future sooner than later...

How long you can limp along w/ the present one will depend on the state
of how bad the bladder/diaphragm actually is. I've managed to put it
off a few months on the rare occasion; weeks is generally the time span
before the cure doesn't last long enough that you'll become tired of
fooling with it.

--

If the pressure is below 40lbs, can I easily use a standard bicycle
pump to restore the pressure? (Wow- this house is 40 years, never had
a tank replaced she says!)




On Tue, 06 Apr 2010 20:53:38 -0400, Frank
wrote:

On 4/6/2010 8:49 PM, frank1492 wrote:
But I guess you are saying get a new one ASAP?
(Thanks for your help.)




On Tue, 06 Apr 2010 19:35:17 -0500, wrote:

frank1492 wrote:
...

Am I correct that (a) constant cycling shortens the life of the
pump and (b) the cause in this case is probably a waterlogged pressure
tank?
...

Yes and yes...

If it's not completely full on the air side (of water, that is) and
there's not a very big leak you may gain some time by draining fully and
then repressurizing to the proper setpoint pressure.

If successful it'll stop the incessant cycling and last a few days to
weeks...


I'd say yes but as dpb suggests you could defer temporarily by adding
air. If bladder is broken it will not last long. I've replaced 2 in
house's 35 year life because they leaked.

frank1492 wrote:
This is actually a two-parter but I'll post the second question
separately.
My GF has a deep well with a submersible pump and a pressure
tank that is probably 30 years old. Lately, the pump cycles
constantly when she runs the water, or does a wash . I think that can
only mean one thing- that the bladder has ruptured and the tank is
waterlogged.
I have told her this constant cycling will dramatically reduce
the life of the pump over time which will be one huge expense for her.
Am I correct that (a) constant cycling shortens the life of the
pump and (b) the cause in this case is probably a waterlogged pressure
tank?
Thanks for help.
Frank
P.S. I will have access to the tank in a few days. Maybe an easy
way to tell is to press the valve stem and see if water comes out?

yes, and yes. But even with a busted bladder, you should be able to air
up the tank to solve the problem. The bladder merely separates the two,
so airing up doesn't have to be performed as often. Turn the pump off
and air the tank to about 7 psi less than the pump kick off pressure.

s

frank1492 wrote:
If the pressure is below 40lbs, can I easily use a standard bicycle
pump to restore the pressure? (Wow- this house is 40 years, never had
a tank replaced she says!)


Yes, my dad pumped ours up when i was a kid with a hand pump a couple
times a year. (he worked up a sweat doing it also)

I'd have to guess that a bike pump would do the job. But, a
heck of a lot of work.

I'd want to use a bigger compressor. Minimally a lighter
plug job, running off a charged battery jumper pack.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"frank1492" wrote in message
...
If the pressure is below 40lbs, can I easily use a standard
bicycle
pump to restore the pressure? (Wow- this house is 40 years,
never had
a tank replaced she says!)

Short cycling the pump (brief, frequent runs) does shorten
the life of the pump.

I wouldn't want to press the valve stem to check for water--
that just guarantees to let out the air. I'd want to juice
it up with a compressor.

Someone with real life experience will likely tell me I'm
wrong. But, if the bladder is ruptured, sounds like you can
inflate it up to a fairly high PSI, like 60 PSI. Any excess
air added will bubble out the faucets, next time you run
water. Might sputter and spray. But at least you'll have
added all it will take.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"frank1492" wrote in message
...
This is actually a two-parter but I'll post the second
question
separately.
My GF has a deep well with a submersible pump and a
pressure
tank that is probably 30 years old. Lately, the pump cycles
constantly when she runs the water, or does a wash . I think
that can
only mean one thing- that the bladder has ruptured and the
tank is
waterlogged.
I have told her this constant cycling will
dramatically reduce
the life of the pump over time which will be one huge
expense for her.
Am I correct that (a) constant cycling shortens the
life of the
pump and (b) the cause in this case is probably a
waterlogged pressure
tank?
Thanks for help.
Frank
P.S. I will have access to the tank in a few days.
Maybe an easy
way to tell is to press the valve stem and see if water
comes out?

On Apr 6, 8:39*pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
Short cycling the pump (brief, frequent runs) does shorten
the life of the pump.

I wouldn't want to press the valve stem to check for water-- *
that just guarantees to let out the air. I'd want to juice
it up with a compressor.

Someone with real life experience will likely tell me I'm
wrong. But, if the bladder is ruptured, sounds like you can
inflate it up to a fairly high PSI, like 60 PSI. Any excess
air added will bubble out the faucets, next time you run
water. Might sputter and spray. But at least you'll have
added all it will take.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

"frank1492" wrote in message

...
This is actually a two-parter but I'll post the second
question
separately.
* * * My GF has a deep well with a submersible pump and a
pressure
tank that is *probably 30 years old. Lately, the pump cycles
constantly when she runs the water, or does a wash . I think
that can
only mean one thing- that the bladder has ruptured and the
tank is
waterlogged.
* * * I have told her this constant cycling will
dramatically reduce
the life of the pump over time which will be one huge
expense for her.
* * * Am I correct that (a) constant cycling shortens the
life of the
pump and (b) the cause in this case is probably a
waterlogged pressure
tank?
* * * Thanks for help.
* * * * * *Frank
* * * P.S. I will have access to the tank in a few days.
Maybe an easy
way to tell is to press the valve stem and see if water
comes out?

Correct pressure (with tank empty) is 2 psi below pump kick-in
pressure. No, the excess air won't come out. The air is at the top
of the tank, the water outlet of the tank is at the bottom.

Harry K

On Apr 7, 12:07*am, Harry K wrote:
On Apr 6, 8:39*pm, "Stormin Mormon"





wrote:
Short cycling the pump (brief, frequent runs) does shorten
the life of the pump.

I wouldn't want to press the valve stem to check for water-- *
that just guarantees to let out the air. I'd want to juice
it up with a compressor.

Someone with real life experience will likely tell me I'm
wrong. But, if the bladder is ruptured, sounds like you can
inflate it up to a fairly high PSI, like 60 PSI. Any excess
air added will bubble out the faucets, next time you run
water. Might sputter and spray. But at least you'll have
added all it will take.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

"frank1492" wrote in message

.. .
This is actually a two-parter but I'll post the second
question
separately.
* * * My GF has a deep well with a submersible pump and a
pressure
tank that is *probably 30 years old. Lately, the pump cycles
constantly when she runs the water, or does a wash . I think
that can
only mean one thing- that the bladder has ruptured and the
tank is
waterlogged.
* * * I have told her this constant cycling will
dramatically reduce
the life of the pump over time which will be one huge
expense for her.
* * * Am I correct that (a) constant cycling shortens the
life of the
pump and (b) the cause in this case is probably a
waterlogged pressure
tank?
* * * Thanks for help.
* * * * * *Frank
* * * P.S. I will have access to the tank in a few days.
Maybe an easy
way to tell is to press the valve stem and see if water
comes out?

Correct pressure (with tank empty) is 2 psi below pump kick-in
pressure. *No, the excess air won't come out. *The air is at the top
of the tank, the water outlet of the tank is at the bottom.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The 2 psi below turn-on sounds about right to me. Also, besides a
ruptured air bag, the air valve could be leaking. I'd try re-
pressurizing it first and see if the air holds. Also, depending on
the conditon of the tank, you could buy a replacement air bag.

Stormin Mormon wrote:
....

I wouldn't want to press the valve stem to check for water--
that just guarantees to let out the air. I'd want to juice
it up with a compressor.

Well, if it is indeed a leaky bladder/diaphragm (depending on which
style tank OP has), it either has too high an air pressure now if water
has displaced any significant air volume and there's not been a loss of
air as that means same amount of air in lesser volume.


Someone with real life experience will likely tell me I'm
wrong. But, if the bladder is ruptured, sounds like you can
inflate it up to a fairly high PSI, like 60 PSI. Any excess
air added will bubble out the faucets, next time you run
water. Might sputter and spray. But at least you'll have
added all it will take.

That would be the wrong way for sure...

I already told OP to drain the tank (water side) entirely, then
repressurize to the correct setpoint pressure (2 lbs under on setpoint
pressure). That will restore proper operation as well as can be w/ the
existing air volume on the air side as it should be. As previously
noted, how long it will last will depend on how much water has been
accumulated on the air side already and how bad any leak is. OP should
check and ensure that the air valve isn't leaking, though, w/ the
soap/spit test just in case as well as checking the air pressure after
draining to make sure hasn't just lost air. In that lucky event he may
have a pleasant surprise.

The only possible use of higher air pressure is in a diaphragm-style
tank one can sometimes manage to force a little water to the other side
of the barrier w/ pressure over a long period if can do w/o the pump for
a day or so. It's almost impossible w/ a bladder given the shape as a bag.

--

On Apr 7, 5:50*am, wrote:
On Apr 7, 12:07*am, Harry K wrote:





On Apr 6, 8:39*pm, "Stormin Mormon"

wrote:
Short cycling the pump (brief, frequent runs) does shorten
the life of the pump.

I wouldn't want to press the valve stem to check for water-- *
that just guarantees to let out the air. I'd want to juice
it up with a compressor.

Someone with real life experience will likely tell me I'm
wrong. But, if the bladder is ruptured, sounds like you can
inflate it up to a fairly high PSI, like 60 PSI. Any excess
air added will bubble out the faucets, next time you run
water. Might sputter and spray. But at least you'll have
added all it will take.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

"frank1492" wrote in message

.. .
This is actually a two-parter but I'll post the second
question
separately.
* * * My GF has a deep well with a submersible pump and a
pressure
tank that is *probably 30 years old. Lately, the pump cycles
constantly when she runs the water, or does a wash . I think
that can
only mean one thing- that the bladder has ruptured and the
tank is
waterlogged.
* * * I have told her this constant cycling will
dramatically reduce
the life of the pump over time which will be one huge
expense for her.
* * * Am I correct that (a) constant cycling shortens the
life of the
pump and (b) the cause in this case is probably a
waterlogged pressure
tank?
* * * Thanks for help.
* * * * * *Frank
* * * P.S. I will have access to the tank in a few days.
Maybe an easy
way to tell is to press the valve stem and see if water
comes out?

Correct pressure (with tank empty) is 2 psi below pump kick-in
pressure. *No, the excess air won't come out. *The air is at the top
of the tank, the water outlet of the tank is at the bottom.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The 2 psi below turn-on sounds about right to me. * Also, besides a
ruptured air bag, the air valve could be leaking. * I'd try re-
pressurizing it first and see if the air holds. * Also, depending on
the conditon of the tank, you could buy a replacement air bag.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yep, some tanks do have replaceable bags. Considering the miserable
job it is to replace one and the relatively minor cost of a new
tank...

Harry K