I'm running an Ethernet cable in the walls from the wireless router
to the church office. (everything else is wireless, but one
computer needs a wired connection.) I'll be terminating the cable
with 8P8C modular keystone jacks. Am I supposed to use 568A or 568B
color codes?

The more I read about it, the confuseder I get; I know for a
straight-through cable the colors don't really matter electrically
(as long as I pair them correctly) but I don't want to make a mess
for the next guy that wants to add on, or has to replace the cable.

It kind of looks like male-to-male cables are traditionally wired A
and female-to-female are wired B. ???

Thanks,
Bob

Stepfann King wrote:
zxcvbob wrote in
:

I'm running an Ethernet cable in the walls from the wireless router
to the church office. (everything else is wireless, but one
computer needs a wired connection.) I'll be terminating the cable
with 8P8C modular keystone jacks. Am I supposed to use 568A or 568B
color codes?

The more I read about it, the confuseder I get; I know for a
straight-through cable the colors don't really matter electrically
(as long as I pair them correctly) but I don't want to make a mess
for the next guy that wants to add on, or has to replace the cable.

It kind of looks like male-to-male cables are traditionally wired A
and female-to-female are wired B. ???

Thanks,
Bob


You want answers from home repair for computer things?
OK, throw some dry wall over the wires add some cement. That'll do it.


I figured it was better than asking on the cooking group (or
rec.gardening, or rec.guns)

Bob

On Fri, 26 Mar 2010 22:20:40 -0500, zxcvbob
wrote:

Stepfann King wrote:
zxcvbob wrote in
:

I'm running an Ethernet cable in the walls from the wireless router
to the church office. (everything else is wireless, but one
computer needs a wired connection.) I'll be terminating the cable
with 8P8C modular keystone jacks. Am I supposed to use 568A or 568B
color codes?

The more I read about it, the confuseder I get; I know for a
straight-through cable the colors don't really matter electrically
(as long as I pair them correctly) but I don't want to make a mess
for the next guy that wants to add on, or has to replace the cable.

It kind of looks like male-to-male cables are traditionally wired A
and female-to-female are wired B. ???

They have femaie ethernet cables? !!

Thanks,
Bob


You want answers from home repair for computer things?
OK, throw some dry wall over the wires add some cement. That'll do it.


I figured it was better than asking on the cooking group (or
rec.gardening, or rec.guns)

Bob

zxcvbob wrote:
I'm running an Ethernet cable in the walls from the wireless router to
the church office. (everything else is wireless, but one computer needs
a wired connection.) I'll be terminating the cable with 8P8C modular
keystone jacks. Am I supposed to use 568A or 568B color codes?

The more I read about it, the confuseder I get; I know for a
straight-through cable the colors don't really matter electrically (as
long as I pair them correctly) but I don't want to make a mess for the
next guy that wants to add on, or has to replace the cable.

It kind of looks like male-to-male cables are traditionally wired A and
female-to-female are wired B. ???

Thanks,
Bob

It's one of the things I do for money. All of the network cabling I
install and all of that installed by the other guys I know is 568B.
Patch cables will often follow the 568A pattern but it doesn't matter
because they're the same on both ends unless you run across a critter
known as a "crossover cable". The difference between 568A and 568B
wiring is that the green and orange pair positions are reversed.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TIA/EIA-568-B

TDD

On Fri, 26 Mar 2010 22:11:11 -0500, zxcvbob
wrote:

I'm running an Ethernet cable in the walls from the wireless router
to the church office. (everything else is wireless, but one
computer needs a wired connection.) I'll be terminating the cable
with 8P8C modular keystone jacks. Am I supposed to use 568A or 568B
color codes?

The more I read about it, the confuseder I get; I know for a
straight-through cable the colors don't really matter electrically
(as long as I pair them correctly) but I don't want to make a mess
for the next guy that wants to add on, or has to replace the cable.

It kind of looks like male-to-male cables are traditionally wired A
and female-to-female are wired B. ???

Thanks,
Bob
Most common in institutional and business use in North America is B

On Fri, 26 Mar 2010 23:45:34 -0400, mm
wrote:

On Fri, 26 Mar 2010 22:20:40 -0500, zxcvbob
wrote:

Stepfann King wrote:
zxcvbob wrote in
:

I'm running an Ethernet cable in the walls from the wireless router
to the church office. (everything else is wireless, but one
computer needs a wired connection.) I'll be terminating the cable
with 8P8C modular keystone jacks. Am I supposed to use 568A or 568B
color codes?

The more I read about it, the confuseder I get; I know for a
straight-through cable the colors don't really matter electrically
(as long as I pair them correctly) but I don't want to make a mess
for the next guy that wants to add on, or has to replace the cable.

It kind of looks like male-to-male cables are traditionally wired A
and female-to-female are wired B. ???

They have femaie ethernet cables? !!

Thanks,
Bob


You want answers from home repair for computer things?
OK, throw some dry wall over the wires add some cement. That'll do it.


I figured it was better than asking on the cooking group (or
rec.gardening, or rec.guns)

Bob
Wire EVERYTHING as B. Switching between the two just complicates
things - particularly if you go to Giga ethernet. (which uses all 4
pairs)

zxcvbob wrote:
I'm running an Ethernet cable in the walls from the wireless router to
the church office. (everything else is wireless, but one computer needs
a wired connection.) I'll be terminating the cable with 8P8C modular
keystone jacks. Am I supposed to use 568A or 568B color codes?

The more I read about it, the confuseder I get; I know for a
straight-through cable the colors don't really matter electrically (as
long as I pair them correctly) but I don't want to make a mess for the
next guy that wants to add on, or has to replace the cable.

It kind of looks like male-to-male cables are traditionally wired A and
female-to-female are wired B. ???

Thanks,
Bob

It doesn't matter which code you use, as long as you use the same one on
both ends of any given run. I personally use the "b" for everything.
It is the way the store bought patch cables are.

You can do it either way, just be consistent. You can even make up your own
standard if you're so incline.

Swtich to B for a crossover, but I don't think that applies, given what
you've described.



"zxcvbob" wrote in message
...
I'm running an Ethernet cable in the walls from the wireless router to the
church office. (everything else is wireless, but one computer needs a
wired connection.) I'll be terminating the cable with 8P8C modular
keystone jacks. Am I supposed to use 568A or 568B color codes?

The more I read about it, the confuseder I get; I know for a
straight-through cable the colors don't really matter electrically (as
long as I pair them correctly) but I don't want to make a mess for the
next guy that wants to add on, or has to replace the cable.

It kind of looks like male-to-male cables are traditionally wired A and
female-to-female are wired B. ???

Thanks,
Bob

On Fri, 26 Mar 2010 22:11:11 -0500, zxcvbob
wrote:

I'm running an Ethernet cable in the walls from the wireless router
to the church office. (everything else is wireless, but one
computer needs a wired connection.) I'll be terminating the cable
with 8P8C modular keystone jacks. Am I supposed to use 568A or 568B
color codes?

The more I read about it, the confuseder I get; I know for a
straight-through cable the colors don't really matter electrically
(as long as I pair them correctly)

For the first ethernet cables I made, I didn't pay attention to
pairing. They worked OK for 10mbps, but when I when to 100mbps the
connect lights came on but there was no data connection.

Be sure to wire both ends of the cable the same.

but I don't want to make a mess
for the next guy that wants to add on, or has to replace the cable.

It kind of looks like male-to-male cables are traditionally wired A
and female-to-female are wired B. ???

Thanks,
Bob
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us

"So far as I can remember, there is not one word in the Gospels in
praise of intelligence." -- Bertrand Russell

On Fri, 26 Mar 2010 23:45:34 -0400, mm
wrote:

[snip]

They have femaie ethernet cables? !!


I have a couple of double-female adapters.

[snip]
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us

"So far as I can remember, there is not one word in the Gospels in
praise of intelligence." -- Bertrand Russell

On Fri, 26 Mar 2010 22:11:11 -0500, zxcvbob
wrote:

I'm running an Ethernet cable in the walls from the wireless router
to the church office. (everything else is wireless, but one
computer needs a wired connection.) I'll be terminating the cable
with 8P8C modular keystone jacks. Am I supposed to use 568A or 568B
color codes?

The more I read about it, the confuseder I get; I know for a
straight-through cable the colors don't really matter electrically
(as long as I pair them correctly) but I don't want to make a mess
for the next guy that wants to add on, or has to replace the cable.

It kind of looks like male-to-male cables are traditionally wired A
and female-to-female are wired B. ???

Thanks,
Bob

If you are just making a jack to jack, it doesn't matter. If the
church has a hub with a punch down block, the punch down block will be
labeled.

Metspitzer wrote:

If you are just making a jack to jack, it doesn't matter. If the
church has a hub with a punch down block, the punch down block will be
labeled.



The church has a 66 punchdown block for the phones (I put that in
last week) but not for the Ethernet.

The jacks have 110 punchdown terminals, and they are labeled for
both A & B but the labels don't make any sense. I'm gonna have to
use a continuity tester and figure out the pin-out (I think it's
1234 down one side and 8765 on the other, where the outermost
terminals are 4 and 5) I may do that tonight.

I've about decided to use B. If the jack is wired the way I think it
is, the orange pair (for B) goes on the inner left and the brown
pair on the right, then the green pair gets separated left and right
in the next terminals, then blue in the outermost terminals. To
wire it "A", just swap the orange and green.

If I was evil, I would put a crossover cable in the walls. ;-)

Bob

On Sat, 27 Mar 2010 16:35:16 -0500, Mark Lloyd
wrote:

On Fri, 26 Mar 2010 23:45:34 -0400, mm
wrote:

[snip]

They have femaie ethernet cables? !!


I have a couple of double-female adapters.

Oh, I get it. the thing snipped from two posts ago. Thanks.

[snip]

On Sat, 27 Mar 2010 18:20:18 -0500, zxcvbob
wrote:

Metspitzer wrote:

If you are just making a jack to jack, it doesn't matter. If the
church has a hub with a punch down block, the punch down block will be
labeled.



The church has a 66 punchdown block for the phones (I put that in
last week) but not for the Ethernet.

The jacks have 110 punchdown terminals, and they are labeled for
both A & B but the labels don't make any sense. I'm gonna have to
use a continuity tester and figure out the pin-out (I think it's
1234 down one side and 8765 on the other, where the outermost
terminals are 4 and 5) I may do that tonight.

I've about decided to use B. If the jack is wired the way I think it
is, the orange pair (for B) goes on the inner left and the brown
pair on the right, then the green pair gets separated left and right
in the next terminals, then blue in the outermost terminals. To
wire it "A", just swap the orange and green.

If I was evil, I would put a crossover cable in the walls. ;-)

Bob
You are correct - and as I said before, go with the "B". Doesn't
matter if it's the plug end or the Keystone jack -

zxcvbob wrote:
Metspitzer wrote:

If you are just making a jack to jack, it doesn't matter. If the
church has a hub with a punch down block, the punch down block will be
labeled.



The church has a 66 punchdown block for the phones (I put that in last
week) but not for the Ethernet.

The jacks have 110 punchdown terminals, and they are labeled for both A
& B but the labels don't make any sense. I'm gonna have to use a
continuity tester and figure out the pin-out (I think it's 1234 down one
side and 8765 on the other, where the outermost terminals are 4 and 5) I
may do that tonight.

I've about decided to use B. If the jack is wired the way I think it is,
the orange pair (for B) goes on the inner left and the brown pair on the
right, then the green pair gets separated left and right in the next
terminals, then blue in the outermost terminals. To wire it "A", just
swap the orange and green.

If I was evil, I would put a crossover cable in the walls. ;-)

Bob

Countless web pages, probably including the manufacturer of the jacks
you are using, have color-coded diagrams of which wires go in which
slots for the A and B wiring patterns. I think the ones the Borg sells
even have a diagram on the card, or a stack of brochures from the
manufacturer. Play close attention to where it says to maintain the
twist for each pair to within a half-inch of the slots.
http://www.9thtee.com/images/Config568diagrams.gif
http://movvam.com/Oth/images/rj45walljack.gif
--
aem sends...

aemeijers wrote:
zxcvbob wrote:
Metspitzer wrote:

If you are just making a jack to jack, it doesn't matter. If the
church has a hub with a punch down block, the punch down block will be
labeled.



The church has a 66 punchdown block for the phones (I put that in last
week) but not for the Ethernet.

The jacks have 110 punchdown terminals, and they are labeled for both
A & B but the labels don't make any sense. I'm gonna have to use a
continuity tester and figure out the pin-out (I think it's 1234 down
one side and 8765 on the other, where the outermost terminals are 4
and 5) I may do that tonight.

I've about decided to use B. If the jack is wired the way I think it
is, the orange pair (for B) goes on the inner left and the brown pair
on the right, then the green pair gets separated left and right in the
next terminals, then blue in the outermost terminals. To wire it "A",
just swap the orange and green.

If I was evil, I would put a crossover cable in the walls. ;-)

Bob

Countless web pages, probably including the manufacturer of the jacks
you are using, have color-coded diagrams of which wires go in which
slots for the A and B wiring patterns. I think the ones the Borg sells
even have a diagram on the card, or a stack of brochures from the
manufacturer. Play close attention to where it says to maintain the
twist for each pair to within a half-inch of the slots.
http://www.9thtee.com/images/Config568diagrams.gif
http://movvam.com/Oth/images/rj45walljack.gif

Now that I look at it, that wall jack diagram seems to be for the 'a'
pattern. But the pin numbers are correct, so you can just match the
colors up with the pin numbers on the 'b' diagram on the first link.

(I'm lazy, and don't have a punchdown tool any more. I just use premade
cables....)
--
aem sends...

On 3/27/2010 9:32 PM, Metspitzer wrote:
BTW strip the insulation at least an inch. The trick is getting the
wires as flat as you can before snipping them to the correct length.


On Sat, 27 Mar 2010 18:20:18 -0500,
wrote:

Metspitzer wrote:

If you are just making a jack to jack, it doesn't matter. If the
church has a hub with a punch down block, the punch down block will be
labeled.



The church has a 66 punchdown block for the phones (I put that in
last week) but not for the Ethernet.

The jacks have 110 punchdown terminals, and they are labeled for
both A& B but the labels don't make any sense. I'm gonna have to
use a continuity tester and figure out the pin-out (I think it's
1234 down one side and 8765 on the other, where the outermost
terminals are 4 and 5) I may do that tonight.

I've about decided to use B. If the jack is wired the way I think it
is, the orange pair (for B) goes on the inner left and the brown
pair on the right, then the green pair gets separated left and right
in the next terminals, then blue in the outermost terminals. To
wire it "A", just swap the orange and green.

If I was evil, I would put a crossover cable in the walls. ;-)

Bob

?

Thats what the cut off blade on the punch down tool is for.

George wrote:
On 3/27/2010 9:32 PM, Metspitzer wrote:
BTW strip the insulation at least an inch. The trick is getting the
wires as flat as you can before snipping them to the correct length.


On Sat, 27 Mar 2010 18:20:18 -0500,
wrote:

Metspitzer wrote:

If you are just making a jack to jack, it doesn't matter. If the
church has a hub with a punch down block, the punch down block will be
labeled.



The church has a 66 punchdown block for the phones (I put that in
last week) but not for the Ethernet.

The jacks have 110 punchdown terminals, and they are labeled for
both A& B but the labels don't make any sense. I'm gonna have to
use a continuity tester and figure out the pin-out (I think it's
1234 down one side and 8765 on the other, where the outermost
terminals are 4 and 5) I may do that tonight.

I've about decided to use B. If the jack is wired the way I think it
is, the orange pair (for B) goes on the inner left and the brown
pair on the right, then the green pair gets separated left and right
in the next terminals, then blue in the outermost terminals. To
wire it "A", just swap the orange and green.

If I was evil, I would put a crossover cable in the walls. ;-)

Bob

?

Thats what the cut off blade on the punch down tool is for.
He was referring to putting the rj45 on the cable- you don't use the
punchdown for that, you use the crimper.

--
aem sends...

zxcvbob wrote:
Metspitzer wrote:

If you are just making a jack to jack, it doesn't matter. If
the church has a hub with a punch down block, the punch down
block will be labeled.



The church has a 66 punchdown block for the phones (I put that in
last week) but not for the Ethernet.

The jacks have 110 punchdown terminals, and they are labeled for
both A & B but the labels don't make any sense. I'm gonna have
to use a continuity tester and figure out the pin-out (I think
it's 1234 down one side and 8765 on the other, where the
outermost terminals are 4 and 5) I may do that tonight.

[snip]


No wonder the wiring label didn't make any sense! I checked the
jack with a continuity tester. This is what I expected:
1 8
2 7
3 6
4 5

And here is what I found (it matches the label):
2 8
1 7
6 4
3 5

1236 and 8754 would almost make sense. The way they did it has a
lot of unnecessary crosses. At least now I know how to hook it up.

Bob

On Mon, 29 Mar 2010 19:51:57 -0500, zxcvbob
wrote:

zxcvbob wrote:
Metspitzer wrote:

If you are just making a jack to jack, it doesn't matter. If
the church has a hub with a punch down block, the punch down
block will be labeled.



The church has a 66 punchdown block for the phones (I put that in
last week) but not for the Ethernet.

The jacks have 110 punchdown terminals, and they are labeled for
both A & B but the labels don't make any sense. I'm gonna have
to use a continuity tester and figure out the pin-out (I think
it's 1234 down one side and 8765 on the other, where the
outermost terminals are 4 and 5) I may do that tonight.

[snip]


No wonder the wiring label didn't make any sense! I checked the
jack with a continuity tester. This is what I expected:
1 8
2 7
3 6
4 5

And here is what I found (it matches the label):
2 8
1 7
6 4
3 5

1236 and 8754 would almost make sense. The way they did it has a
lot of unnecessary crosses. At least now I know how to hook it up.

Bob

http://www.incentre.net/content/view/75/2/