Hello,

I have two salvaged doors which I would like to make into double doors
for a closet. So I have to build a new jamb for them, and I am
wondering how much clearance I should allow around each door and in
between the doors. I was thinking 1/8" everywhere, so I would make my
jamb 3/8" wider than the sum of the door widths. Does that sound
right?

Also, what options are available for hardware to hold them in the
closed position while allowing them to operate independently? I don't
want to have any hardware in the floor. The only thing I could think
of was a ball catch at the top inside corner of each door, but I'm not
sure how well that would work.

Thanks,
Wayne

Wayne Whitney wrote:
Hello,

I have two salvaged doors which I would like to make into double doors
for a closet. So I have to build a new jamb for them, and I am
wondering how much clearance I should allow around each door and in
between the doors. I was thinking 1/8" everywhere, so I would make my
jamb 3/8" wider than the sum of the door widths. Does that sound
right?

Also, what options are available for hardware to hold them in the
closed position while allowing them to operate independently? I don't
want to have any hardware in the floor. The only thing I could think
of was a ball catch at the top inside corner of each door, but I'm not
sure how well that would work.

Thanks,
Wayne

i used a spring loaded ball catch at the top of a door i built for the
commode room in my master bathroom. it works almost too well, as the force
to overcome the spring is almost too much.

On Mar 5, 2:50*pm, Wayne Whitney wrote:
Hello,

I have two salvaged doors which I would like to make into double doors
for a closet. *So I have to build a new jamb for them, and I am
wondering how much clearance I should allow around each door and in
between the doors. *I was thinking 1/8" everywhere, so I would make my
jamb 3/8" wider than the sum of the door widths. *Does that sound
right?

Also, what options are available for hardware to hold them in the
closed position while allowing them to operate independently? *I don't
want to have any hardware in the floor. *The only thing I could think
of was a ball catch at the top inside corner of each door, but I'm not
sure how well that would work.

Thanks,
Wayne

Why couldn't you use just about any type of cabinet latch attached to
the upper jamb?

Magnetic, clip, etc.

I currently use heavy duty magnetic cabinet latches on my shed to keep
both doors "in the closed position while allowing them to operate
independently".

On 2010-03-05, DerbyDad03 wrote:

Why couldn't you use just about any type of cabinet latch attached
to the upper jamb?

I guess my concern with a catch at the top of the door is that when
you are pulling on a handle at 36" above floor level, the 44" height
difference will cause the door to flex before the catch releases.
I've observed this sometimes when a door sticks in the jamb at the
top. Perhaps this can be avoided by using a catch with a sufficiently
low release force.

I'd ideally like a catch system for double doors that would operate by
turning the handle, like a normal door, but isn't so complicated as
the ones that require you to route out the edge of the door. Is there
anything like that? What do most people use for double doors?

Thanks,
Wayne

On Mar 5, 2:50*pm, Wayne Whitney wrote:
Hello,

I have two salvaged doors which I would like to make into double doors
for a closet. *So I have to build a new jamb for them, and I am
wondering how much clearance I should allow around each door and in
between the doors. *I was thinking 1/8" everywhere, so I would make my
jamb 3/8" wider than the sum of the door widths. *Does that sound
right?

Also, what options are available for hardware to hold them in the
closed position while allowing them to operate independently? *I don't
want to have any hardware in the floor. *The only thing I could think
of was a ball catch at the top inside corner of each door, but I'm not
sure how well that would work.

Thanks,
Wayne

"how much clearance I should allow around each door "

I'd match the other door(s) in the room (house) so that the reveal was
consistant.

On 2010-03-05, DerbyDad03 wrote:

I'd match the other door(s) in the room (house) so that the reveal
was consistant.

Well, there's some variation, but 1/8" at the sides would match fine.
But I have no idea on what the gap between the two doors should be,
there are no other double doors in the house.

Cheers, Wayne

On Fri, 5 Mar 2010 19:50:30 +0000 (UTC), Wayne Whitney
wrote:

Also, what options are available for hardware to hold them in the
closed position while allowing them to operate independently? I don't
want to have any hardware in the floor. The only thing I could think
of was a ball catch at the top inside corner of each door, but I'm not
sure how well that would work.

Thanks,
Wayne

One magnetic latch at the top of each door (inside). You can get
"dummy" door knobs for the pull handle (door knobs).

On Fri, 5 Mar 2010 21:11:03 +0000 (UTC), Wayne Whitney
wrote:

On 2010-03-05, DerbyDad03 wrote:

I'd match the other door(s) in the room (house) so that the reveal
was consistant.

Well, there's some variation, but 1/8" at the sides would match fine.
But I have no idea on what the gap between the two doors should be,
there are no other double doors in the house.

Cheers, Wayne

3/16 ?

The reveal should be the same between doors as the sides are.

Wayne Whitney wrote:

Also, what options are available for hardware to hold them in the
closed position while allowing them to operate independently? I don't
want to have any hardware in the floor. The only thing I could think
of was a ball catch at the top inside corner of each door, but I'm not
sure how well that would work.


Spring closers that replace the hinge pins.

Pneumatic door closers.

Screen-door springs

On 2010-03-06, HeyBub wrote:

Spring closers that replace the hinge pins.

That's a good idea. I would want the closet doors to stay open if
opened, but some sort of "soft close" hinge would work well. It should
only activate when the door is almost closed, and then should ensure
the door would close fully and stay closed.

Cheers, Wayne

Wayne Whitney wrote:
On 2010-03-06, HeyBub wrote:

Spring closers that replace the hinge pins.

That's a good idea. I would want the closet doors to stay open if
opened, but some sort of "soft close" hinge would work well. It should
only activate when the door is almost closed, and then should ensure
the door would close fully and stay closed.


Door stops (you'd be surprised at the variety)

Brick

Locking lid support

Oren wrote:
On Fri, 5 Mar 2010 21:11:03 +0000 (UTC), Wayne Whitney
wrote:

On 2010-03-05, DerbyDad03 wrote:

I'd match the other door(s) in the room (house) so that the reveal
was consistant.
Well, there's some variation, but 1/8" at the sides would match fine.
But I have no idea on what the gap between the two doors should be,
there are no other double doors in the house.

Cheers, Wayne

3/16 ?

The reveal should be the same between doors as the sides are.
If you want a tight visual gap, you back-bevel the edges where they meet
ever-so-slightly. That way they don't run into each other.
--
aem sends...

"Wayne Whitney" wrote in message
...
On 2010-03-05, DerbyDad03 wrote:

Why couldn't you use just about any type of cabinet latch attached
to the upper jamb?

I guess my concern with a catch at the top of the door is that when
you are pulling on a handle at 36" above floor level, the 44" height
difference will cause the door to flex before the catch releases.
I've observed this sometimes when a door sticks in the jamb at the
top. Perhaps this can be avoided by using a catch with a sufficiently
low release force.

I'd ideally like a catch system for double doors that would operate by
turning the handle, like a normal door, but isn't so complicated as
the ones that require you to route out the edge of the door. Is there
anything like that? What do most people use for double doors?

Thanks,
Wayne

Most people use a ball catch at the top. It is height-adjustable to allow
for different release forces. Additionally, rubbing just a smidge of
mineral oil usually helps the metal-on-metal with the strike plate.

Wayne Whitney wrote:
Hello,

I have two salvaged doors which I would like to make into double doors
for a closet. So I have to build a new jamb for them, and I am
wondering how much clearance I should allow around each door and in
between the doors. I was thinking 1/8" everywhere, so I would make my
jamb 3/8" wider than the sum of the door widths. Does that sound
right?

A dime at top, nickel at sides
_____________

Also, what options are available for hardware to hold them in the
closed position while allowing them to operate independently? I don't
want to have any hardware in the floor. The only thing I could think
of was a ball catch at the top inside corner of each door, but I'm not
sure how well that would work.

There are ball catches and there are ball catches. Used to have a pair that
worked great, silky smooth. Current also work fine but are "rough" - takes
a fair push to close, fair pull to open.



--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Wayne Whitney wrote:
On 2010-03-05, DerbyDad03 wrote:

I'd match the other door(s) in the room (house) so that the reveal
was consistant.

Well, there's some variation, but 1/8" at the sides would match fine.
But I have no idea on what the gap between the two doors should be,
there are no other double doors in the house.

Two ways to work it...

1. Measure the thickness of the door from the center of the hinge pin to the
back; ditto the width, hinge pin center to edge. Calculate the hypotenuse
of those. That is the "width" of the door as it opens. Add a smidge to
each width.

2. Bevel the edge of the door back by 3 degrees or so thus decreasing the
opening width at the back so either can be opened without hitting the other.
Add whatever gap you want between them.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On Mar 5, 1:50*pm, Wayne Whitney wrote:
Hello,

I have two salvaged doors which I would like to make into double doors
for a closet. *So I have to build a new jamb for them, and I am
wondering how much clearance I should allow around each door and in
between the doors. *I was thinking 1/8" everywhere, so I would make my
jamb 3/8" wider than the sum of the door widths. *Does that sound
right?

snip

No. Maybe. Ask any journeyman finish carpenter what gaps should be and
he will quote you the ancient ''nickle and dime' rule: a dime
thickness at the hinge side, and a nickle thickness at the latch side.
That's what the young apprentices learn, but with older doors you may
have to bend the rules a bit.

Joe

On Mar 6, 1:42*pm, Joe wrote:
On Mar 5, 1:50*pm, Wayne Whitney wrote:

Hello,

I have two salvaged doors which I would like to make into double doors
for a closet. *So I have to build a new jamb for them, and I am
wondering how much clearance I should allow around each door and in
between the doors. *I was thinking 1/8" everywhere, so I would make my
jamb 3/8" wider than the sum of the door widths. *Does that sound
right?
snip

No. Maybe. Ask any journeyman finish carpenter what gaps should be and
he will quote you the ancient ''nickle and dime' rule: a dime
thickness at the hinge side, and a nickle thickness at the latch side.
That's what the young apprentices learn, but with older doors you may
have to bend the rules a bit.

Joe

Nickel and dime seems good Why not use a magnetic latch to hold the
dfoors closed. If there is too much force to opening, a piece or two
of scotch tape over the fixed plate will reduce the effort needed to
open the doors. I haev that on several places in our house.

On Mar 5, 3:57*pm, Wayne Whitney wrote:
On 2010-03-05, DerbyDad03 wrote:

Why couldn't you use just about any type of cabinet latch attached
to the upper jamb?

I guess my concern with a catch at the top of the door is that when
you are pulling on a handle at 36" above floor level, the 44" height
difference will cause the door to flex before the catch releases.
I've observed this sometimes when a door sticks in the jamb at the
top. *Perhaps this can be avoided by using a catch with a sufficiently
low release force.

I'd ideally like a catch system for double doors that would operate by
turning the handle, like a normal door, but isn't so complicated as
the ones that require you to route out the edge of the door. *Is there
anything like that? *What do most people use for double doors?

Thanks,
Wayne


How large are the doors ??? Are they solid doors or paneled doors ???
It sounds like you are worrying over a non-issue for a real door

What you describe is possible, but not using residential door
hardware...

A "push-bar exit device, surface vertical rod, less bottom rod" would
do
exactly what you are asking/describing... You can obtain these with
knobs, levers or handle/thumb piece outside trims...

It is way overkill for a closet and you would need two of them, one
for
each door... But their installation doesn't require routing out the
edge
of the door, only boring a hole through the door for the outside
trim...
All other parts of the lock unit will surface mount on the inside face
of
the door...

Again, its overkill for what you are seeking to do, but you asked if
it
was possible and no one responding so far has described this
solution...

~~ Evan

On 2010-03-07, Evan wrote:

Again, its overkill for what you are seeking to do, but you asked if
it was possible and no one responding so far has described this
solution... ~~ Evan

Thanks for your response and for all of the other responses. It was
good to learn about the hardware you described. But as you say, it is
overkill for closet doors, so I will likely just use a quality ball
catch.

Cheers, Wayne