I am in the process of picking out wood laminate flooring for my entry
way, and all the way down the hallway. This will replace carpet.

I have a small area of laminate flooring in the entry way right now, and
it still looks like new after eleven years. Unfortunately, I cannot get
the same thing any more. I really like it. It is light in color.

Can anyone give me tips as to what type of laminate I should get?
I want something that really lasts. From what I understand there is an
oiled laminate and a hard coated, but I don't know the terms.

Thanks everyone.

Kate

"Kate" wrote in message
...
I am in the process of picking out wood laminate flooring for my entry
way, and all the way down the hallway. This will replace carpet.

I have a small area of laminate flooring in the entry way right now, and
it still looks like new after eleven years. Unfortunately, I cannot get
the same thing any more. I really like it. It is light in color.

Can anyone give me tips as to what type of laminate I should get?
I want something that really lasts. From what I understand there is an
oiled laminate and a hard coated, but I don't know the terms.

Thanks everyone.

Kate

I don't know the difference but I have WilsonArt on my steps and landing for
the past 15+ years and it looks as good as new. Stick with any of the brand
names and you will be OK.

Kate wrote:
I am in the process of picking out wood laminate flooring for my entry
way, and all the way down the hallway. This will replace carpet.

I have a small area of laminate flooring in the entry way right now,
and it still looks like new after eleven years. Unfortunately, I
cannot get the same thing any more. I really like it. It is light in
color.
Can anyone give me tips as to what type of laminate I should get?
I want something that really lasts. From what I understand there is an
oiled laminate and a hard coated, but I don't know the terms.

Thanks everyone.

I THINK (but am not positive) that the durability of (reputable) laminate
flooring is mostly the same. The laminate makers coat their products with
something even stronger than the Lexan used in fighter jet windshields. It
resists staining, wear, fire, abrasion, bullets, woodpeckers, and just about
everything else. The difference in quality if found in the substrate
material (wood, wallpaper, etc.) and the precision of the interlocking
pieces.

As long as you're not putting down the dance floor of a disco club,
durability is probably fairly low on the list of things to consider.

On Mon, 1 Mar 2010 07:04:12 -0600, "HeyBub"
wrote:

Kate wrote:
I am in the process of picking out wood laminate flooring for my entry
way, and all the way down the hallway. This will replace carpet.

I have a small area of laminate flooring in the entry way right now,
and it still looks like new after eleven years. Unfortunately, I
cannot get the same thing any more. I really like it. It is light in
color.
Can anyone give me tips as to what type of laminate I should get?
I want something that really lasts. From what I understand there is an
oiled laminate and a hard coated, but I don't know the terms.

Thanks everyone.

I THINK (but am not positive) that the durability of (reputable) laminate
flooring is mostly the same. The laminate makers coat their products with
something even stronger than the Lexan used in fighter jet windshields. It
resists staining, wear, fire, abrasion, bullets, woodpeckers, and just about
everything else. The difference in quality if found in the substrate
material (wood, wallpaper, etc.) and the precision of the interlocking
pieces.

As long as you're not putting down the dance floor of a disco club,
durability is probably fairly low on the list of things to consider.

MOST laminate finishes contain aluminum oxide.

Ed Pawlowski wrote:


"Kate" wrote in message
...
I am in the process of picking out wood laminate flooring for my entry
way, and all the way down the hallway. This will replace carpet.

I have a small area of laminate flooring in the entry way right now,
and it still looks like new after eleven years. Unfortunately, I
cannot get the same thing any more. I really like it. It is light in
color.

Can anyone give me tips as to what type of laminate I should get?
I want something that really lasts. From what I understand there is an
oiled laminate and a hard coated, but I don't know the terms.

Thanks everyone.

Kate

I don't know the difference but I have WilsonArt on my steps and landing
for the past 15+ years and it looks as good as new. Stick with any of
the brand names and you will be OK.
Thank you Ed.

HeyBub wrote:
Kate wrote:
I am in the process of picking out wood laminate flooring for my entry
way, and all the way down the hallway. This will replace carpet.

I have a small area of laminate flooring in the entry way right now,
and it still looks like new after eleven years. Unfortunately, I
cannot get the same thing any more. I really like it. It is light in
color.
Can anyone give me tips as to what type of laminate I should get?
I want something that really lasts. From what I understand there is an
oiled laminate and a hard coated, but I don't know the terms.

Thanks everyone.

I THINK (but am not positive) that the durability of (reputable) laminate
flooring is mostly the same. The laminate makers coat their products with
something even stronger than the Lexan used in fighter jet windshields. It
resists staining, wear, fire, abrasion, bullets, woodpeckers, and just about
everything else. The difference in quality if found in the substrate
material (wood, wallpaper, etc.) and the precision of the interlocking
pieces.

As long as you're not putting down the dance floor of a disco club,
durability is probably fairly low on the list of things to consider.


Great advice. Thanks.

Kate wrote:

I THINK (but am not positive) that the durability of (reputable)
laminate flooring is mostly the same. The laminate makers coat their
products with something even stronger than the Lexan used in fighter
jet windshields. It resists staining, wear, fire, abrasion, bullets,
woodpeckers, and just about everything else. The difference in
quality if found in the substrate material (wood, wallpaper, etc.)
and the precision of the interlocking pieces.

As long as you're not putting down the dance floor of a disco club,
durability is probably fairly low on the list of things to consider.


Great advice. Thanks.

Just to emphasize, I bought some relatively cheap laminate (79¢/sq ft from
Lumber Liquidators) for a spare room and had some left over - you have to
buy it in box quantities.

What the hell. I installed the left-overs on top of the icky, 60's era,
Formica countertops in the kitchen, and, with suitable use of quarter-rounds
and a miter saw, also put in splash guards. Looks like butcher-block at
1/10th the price.

Before I did that, I experimented. The stuff is impervious to liquids,
scratching with a nail or rasp, and hard to drill through. (I was able to
scorch it with a soldering iron.) The military ought to make bullet-proof
vests out of the stuff.

HeyBub wrote:
Kate wrote:

I THINK (but am not positive) that the durability of (reputable)
laminate flooring is mostly the same. The laminate makers coat their
products with something even stronger than the Lexan used in fighter
jet windshields. It resists staining, wear, fire, abrasion, bullets,
woodpeckers, and just about everything else. The difference in
quality if found in the substrate material (wood, wallpaper, etc.)
and the precision of the interlocking pieces.

As long as you're not putting down the dance floor of a disco club,
durability is probably fairly low on the list of things to consider.


Great advice. Thanks.

Just to emphasize, I bought some relatively cheap laminate (79¢/sq ft
from Lumber Liquidators) for a spare room and had some left over -
you have to buy it in box quantities.

What the hell. I installed the left-overs on top of the icky, 60's
era, Formica countertops in the kitchen, and, with suitable use of
quarter-rounds and a miter saw, also put in splash guards. Looks like
butcher-block at 1/10th the price.

Before I did that, I experimented. The stuff is impervious to liquids,
scratching with a nail or rasp, and hard to drill through. (I was
able to scorch it with a soldering iron.) The military ought to make
bullet-proof vests out of the stuff.

what sized nail guns would you use to install that, or would you use glue?

Kate wrote:
I am in the process of picking out wood laminate flooring for my entry
way, and all the way down the hallway. This will replace carpet.

I have a small area of laminate flooring in the entry way right now, and
it still looks like new after eleven years. Unfortunately, I cannot get
the same thing any more. I really like it. It is light in color.

Can anyone give me tips as to what type of laminate I should get?
I want something that really lasts. From what I understand there is an
oiled laminate and a hard coated, but I don't know the terms.

Thanks everyone.

Kate

What is under the carpet? Is the laminate original, or was entry hall
tile or slate originally? I wouldn't use any sort of wood or wood-based
product right next to a exterior weather door. If by some chance there
is old wood under the carpet (unlikely if house is only 11 years old
like the existing laminate), I'd refinish that, and put something harder
by the door, like ceramic or slate. If it is particle board under the
carpet and laminate, I'd still go with something harder by the door, and
wood-surface laminate for the rest of it.

Personally, I'm not a fan of laminate, no matter how
cheap/convenient/durable it is. The pattern of the seams just leaps out
at me, making it impossible to think of it as a real wood floor, even if
it is the wood-surface 'engineered' flooring. But that is just me- I
grew up with real Bruce hardwood back in the stone age, and nothing else
looks right to me. And I'd sooner have vinyl, or even w/w carpet, than
fake woodgrain.

--
aem sends...

HeyBub wrote:
Kate wrote:
I THINK (but am not positive) that the durability of (reputable)
laminate flooring is mostly the same. The laminate makers coat their
products with something even stronger than the Lexan used in fighter
jet windshields. It resists staining, wear, fire, abrasion, bullets,
woodpeckers, and just about everything else. The difference in
quality if found in the substrate material (wood, wallpaper, etc.)
and the precision of the interlocking pieces.

As long as you're not putting down the dance floor of a disco club,
durability is probably fairly low on the list of things to consider.


Great advice. Thanks.

Just to emphasize, I bought some relatively cheap laminate (79¢/sq ft from
Lumber Liquidators) for a spare room and had some left over - you have to
buy it in box quantities.

What the hell. I installed the left-overs on top of the icky, 60's era,
Formica countertops in the kitchen, and, with suitable use of quarter-rounds
and a miter saw, also put in splash guards. Looks like butcher-block at
1/10th the price.

Before I did that, I experimented. The stuff is impervious to liquids,
scratching with a nail or rasp, and hard to drill through. (I was able to
scorch it with a soldering iron.) The military ought to make bullet-proof
vests out of the stuff.


I have a small area of wood laminate flooring at my front door that is
eleven years old. It still looks like new.

I would love to see that pic of your countertop. Clever!

aemeijers wrote:
Kate wrote:
I am in the process of picking out wood laminate flooring for my entry
way, and all the way down the hallway. This will replace carpet.

I have a small area of laminate flooring in the entry way right now,
and it still looks like new after eleven years. Unfortunately, I
cannot get the same thing any more. I really like it. It is light in
color.

Can anyone give me tips as to what type of laminate I should get?
I want something that really lasts. From what I understand there is an
oiled laminate and a hard coated, but I don't know the terms.

Thanks everyone.

Kate

What is under the carpet? Is the laminate original, or was entry hall
tile or slate originally? I wouldn't use any sort of wood or wood-based
product right next to a exterior weather door. If by some chance there
is old wood under the carpet (unlikely if house is only 11 years old
like the existing laminate), I'd refinish that, and put something harder
by the door, like ceramic or slate. If it is particle board under the
carpet and laminate, I'd still go with something harder by the door, and
wood-surface laminate for the rest of it.

Personally, I'm not a fan of laminate, no matter how
cheap/convenient/durable it is. The pattern of the seams just leaps out
at me, making it impossible to think of it as a real wood floor, even if
it is the wood-surface 'engineered' flooring. But that is just me- I
grew up with real Bruce hardwood back in the stone age, and nothing else
looks right to me. And I'd sooner have vinyl, or even w/w carpet, than
fake woodgrain.

--
aem sends...
I had new carpet installed when I bought the house. Of course, there is
a carpet pad, but I am not sure what is underneath that. The original
wood is under the carpet I would think.

The small patch of laminate right in front of the front door is the
original. It still looks like new.

I know lots of folks don't like the look of laminate. One of the
installers that did my tile work said he would not recommend real wood
in my neck of the woods. He said real wood needs to be kept at a
certain humidity level 24/7.

I am still debating.

Thanks for your feedback. I love this group.

chaniarts wrote:
HeyBub wrote:
Kate wrote:

I THINK (but am not positive) that the durability of (reputable)
laminate flooring is mostly the same. The laminate makers coat
their products with something even stronger than the Lexan used in
fighter jet windshields. It resists staining, wear, fire,
abrasion, bullets, woodpeckers, and just about everything else.
The difference in quality if found in the substrate material
(wood, wallpaper, etc.) and the precision of the interlocking
pieces. As long as you're not putting down the dance floor of a disco
club,
durability is probably fairly low on the list of things to
consider.
Great advice. Thanks.

Just to emphasize, I bought some relatively cheap laminate (79¢/sq ft
from Lumber Liquidators) for a spare room and had some left over -
you have to buy it in box quantities.

What the hell. I installed the left-overs on top of the icky, 60's
era, Formica countertops in the kitchen, and, with suitable use of
quarter-rounds and a miter saw, also put in splash guards. Looks like
butcher-block at 1/10th the price.

Before I did that, I experimented. The stuff is impervious to
liquids, scratching with a nail or rasp, and hard to drill through.
(I was able to scorch it with a soldering iron.) The military ought
to make bullet-proof vests out of the stuff.

what sized nail guns would you use to install that, or would you use
glue?

Spray-on glue - from an aerosol can.

Kate wrote:

Just to emphasize, I bought some relatively cheap laminate (79¢/sq
ft from Lumber Liquidators) for a spare room and had some left over
- you have to buy it in box quantities.

What the hell. I installed the left-overs on top of the icky, 60's
era, Formica countertops in the kitchen, and, with suitable use of
quarter-rounds and a miter saw, also put in splash guards. Looks
like butcher-block at 1/10th the price.

Before I did that, I experimented. The stuff is impervious to
liquids, scratching with a nail or rasp, and hard to drill through.
(I was able to scorch it with a soldering iron.) The military ought
to make bullet-proof vests out of the stuff.


I have a small area of wood laminate flooring at my front door that is
eleven years old. It still looks like new.

I would love to see that pic of your countertop. Clever!

Here you go. Before and after:

http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/a...henBefore1.jpg

http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/Kitchen1.jpg

aemeijers wrote:

Personally, I'm not a fan of laminate, no matter how
cheap/convenient/durable it is. The pattern of the seams just leaps
out at me, making it impossible to think of it as a real wood floor,
even if it is the wood-surface 'engineered' flooring. But that is
just me- I grew up with real Bruce hardwood back in the stone age,
and nothing else looks right to me. And I'd sooner have vinyl, or
even w/w carpet, than fake woodgrain.

Yep. But suitably placed throw-rugs break up the pattern.

I view floors much like store merchandise fixtures. If everything else is
correct, the visitors should be looking at the merchandise, not the fixture.

HeyBub wrote:
Kate wrote:
Just to emphasize, I bought some relatively cheap laminate (79¢/sq
ft from Lumber Liquidators) for a spare room and had some left over
- you have to buy it in box quantities.

What the hell. I installed the left-overs on top of the icky, 60's
era, Formica countertops in the kitchen, and, with suitable use of
quarter-rounds and a miter saw, also put in splash guards. Looks
like butcher-block at 1/10th the price.

Before I did that, I experimented. The stuff is impervious to
liquids, scratching with a nail or rasp, and hard to drill through.
(I was able to scorch it with a soldering iron.) The military ought
to make bullet-proof vests out of the stuff.


I have a small area of wood laminate flooring at my front door that is
eleven years old. It still looks like new.

I would love to see that pic of your countertop. Clever!

Here you go. Before and after:

http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/a...henBefore1.jpg

http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/Kitchen1.jpg


That is amazing, and a very nice improvement. Like I said before,
"clever". Thanks for posting the pics.

wrote in
:

On Mon, 1 Mar 2010 07:04:12 -0600, "HeyBub"
wrote:

Kate wrote:
I am in the process of picking out wood laminate flooring for my
entry way, and all the way down the hallway. This will replace
carpet.

I have a small area of laminate flooring in the entry way right now,
and it still looks like new after eleven years. Unfortunately, I
cannot get the same thing any more. I really like it. It is light in
color.
Can anyone give me tips as to what type of laminate I should get?
I want something that really lasts. From what I understand there is
an oiled laminate and a hard coated, but I don't know the terms.

Thanks everyone.

I THINK (but am not positive) that the durability of (reputable)
laminate flooring is mostly the same. The laminate makers coat their
products with something even stronger than the Lexan used in fighter
jet windshields. It resists staining, wear, fire, abrasion, bullets,
woodpeckers, and just about everything else. The difference in quality
if found in the substrate material (wood, wallpaper, etc.) and the
precision of the interlocking pieces.

As long as you're not putting down the dance floor of a disco club,
durability is probably fairly low on the list of things to consider.

MOST laminate finishes contain aluminum oxide.

Which is used in automotive sandpaper to sand metal.