Hi,

I posted last week about our GE Profile fridge starting to lose its
cooling power. Well, we decided to order new appliacnes and they are
coming next Friday March 5th.

In the meantime the fridge has some hot spots by the door - where the
magnetic strips connect to the fridge. Not the doors themselves, but
the front part of the fridge. It is really hot in some places and I'm
worried it is a fire hazzard. This has been coming on for a while now
that I think about it because I noticed it was getting warm in front
of the fridge going back several months now.

How can I turn this fridge off?

I can't wheel it out and unplug it. It's too big for me and I have a
bad shoulder right now.

If I turn the thermostats down as warm as it will go would that do it?

I'm thinking we will just keep the milk outside in a cooler for now
and chuck the rest of the food and wait for the new fridge to come on
Friday. Either that or call the appliance store and see if they can
rush the new fridge.

It's dying fast. I just checked and now the fridge compartment is at
52 degrees. It was at 50 a few minutes ago.

The ice maker stopped working as well.

Would appreciate any advice on how to shut this baby down. I guess a
look at the new fuse box they installed when they did our kitchen
might be a good idea.

Steve

On Feb 26, 10:31*pm, " wrote:
Hi,

I posted last week about our GE Profile fridge starting to lose its
cooling power. *Well, we decided to order new appliacnes and they are
coming next Friday March 5th.

In the meantime the fridge has some hot spots by the door - where the
magnetic strips connect to the fridge. *Not the doors themselves, but
the front part of the fridge. *It is really hot in some places and I'm
worried it is a fire hazzard. *This has been coming on for a while now
that I think about it because I noticed it was getting warm in front
of the fridge going back several months now.

How can I turn this fridge off?

I can't wheel it out and unplug it. *It's too big for me and I have a
bad shoulder right now.

If I turn the thermostats down as warm as it will go would that do it?

I'm thinking we will just keep the milk outside in a cooler for now
and chuck the rest of the food and wait for the new fridge to come on
Friday. *Either that or call the appliance store and see if they can
rush the new fridge.

It's dying fast. *I just checked and now the fridge compartment is at
52 degrees. *It was at 50 a few minutes ago.

The ice maker stopped working as well.

Would appreciate any advice on how to shut this baby down. *I guess a
look at the new fuse box they installed when they did our kitchen
might be a good idea.

Steve

Its the defroster, probably the clock timer broke in the on position
if it doesnt cool down, thats why its to warm, is there a switch
inside for energy saver mode, if not the clock is probably in the
refrigator section, mine broke in the on position, it would not cool
either. Check it after maybe 12 hours to see if its still hot, maybe
it does cycle but the element is going bad, an amp meter would tell
you alot.

wrote:
Hi,

I posted last week about our GE Profile fridge starting to lose its
cooling power. Well, we decided to order new appliacnes and they are
coming next Friday March 5th.

In the meantime the fridge has some hot spots by the door - where the
magnetic strips connect to the fridge. Not the doors themselves, but
the front part of the fridge. It is really hot in some places and I'm
worried it is a fire hazzard. This has been coming on for a while now
that I think about it because I noticed it was getting warm in front
of the fridge going back several months now.

How can I turn this fridge off?

I can't wheel it out and unplug it. It's too big for me and I have a
bad shoulder right now.

If I turn the thermostats down as warm as it will go would that do it?

I'm thinking we will just keep the milk outside in a cooler for now
and chuck the rest of the food and wait for the new fridge to come on
Friday. Either that or call the appliance store and see if they can
rush the new fridge.

It's dying fast. I just checked and now the fridge compartment is at
52 degrees. It was at 50 a few minutes ago.

The ice maker stopped working as well.

Would appreciate any advice on how to shut this baby down. I guess a
look at the new fuse box they installed when they did our kitchen
might be a good idea.

Steve

Hi,
Sounds like the defrost timer contacts got stuck and defroster heater is on.

On Fri, 26 Feb 2010 20:31:19 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:


How can I turn this fridge off?

Do you have a circuit breaker marked "fridge"? Or maybe a fuse?

A lot of places do.

On Sat, 27 Feb 2010 00:45:47 -0500, mm
wrote:

On Fri, 26 Feb 2010 20:31:19 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:


How can I turn this fridge off?

Do you have a circuit breaker marked "fridge"? Or maybe a fuse?

A lot of places do.

All this time I was thinking the MAIN breaker needed to be tripped.

I have a service disconnect breaker at the outside meter.

On Feb 26, 11:40*pm, ransley wrote:
On Feb 26, 10:31*pm, " wrote:





Hi,

I posted last week about our GE Profile fridge starting to lose its
cooling power. *Well, we decided to order new appliacnes and they are
coming next Friday March 5th.

In the meantime the fridge has some hot spots by the door - where the
magnetic strips connect to the fridge. *Not the doors themselves, but
the front part of the fridge. *It is really hot in some places and I'm
worried it is a fire hazzard. *This has been coming on for a while now
that I think about it because I noticed it was getting warm in front
of the fridge going back several months now.

How can I turn this fridge off?

I can't wheel it out and unplug it. *It's too big for me and I have a
bad shoulder right now.

If I turn the thermostats down as warm as it will go would that do it?

I'm thinking we will just keep the milk outside in a cooler for now
and chuck the rest of the food and wait for the new fridge to come on
Friday. *Either that or call the appliance store and see if they can
rush the new fridge.

It's dying fast. *I just checked and now the fridge compartment is at
52 degrees. *It was at 50 a few minutes ago.

The ice maker stopped working as well.

Would appreciate any advice on how to shut this baby down. *I guess a
look at the new fuse box they installed when they did our kitchen
might be a good idea.

Steve

Its the defroster, probably the clock timer broke in the on position
if it doesnt cool down, thats why its to warm, is there a switch
inside for energy saver mode, if not the clock is probably in the
refrigator section, mine broke in the on position, it would not cool
either. Check it after maybe 12 hours to see if its still hot, maybe
it does cycle but the element is going bad, an amp meter would tell
you alot.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

That sounds right.

I checked the temperature again this morning and now the fridge is 47
degrees and the doors are not warm.

So I guess I can breathe a little easier.

I looked in the manual and there is no mention of a defrost timer.
Looking around in the fridge and freezer compartments I don't see any
controls for this. Just the 2 thermostats for setting the fridge or
freezer temperature. Both of those are set to the coldest setting
now.

Looking forwards to those new appliances. The stove was shot anyway
and now the fridge. Dishwasher doesn't dry that well anymore either.
12 years seems like a reasonable life span.

Steve

On Feb 27, 4:56*am, " wrote:
On Feb 26, 11:40*pm, ransley wrote:





On Feb 26, 10:31*pm, " wrote:

Hi,

I posted last week about our GE Profile fridge starting to lose its
cooling power. *Well, we decided to order new appliacnes and they are
coming next Friday March 5th.

In the meantime the fridge has some hot spots by the door - where the
magnetic strips connect to the fridge. *Not the doors themselves, but
the front part of the fridge. *It is really hot in some places and I'm
worried it is a fire hazzard. *This has been coming on for a while now
that I think about it because I noticed it was getting warm in front
of the fridge going back several months now.

How can I turn this fridge off?

I can't wheel it out and unplug it. *It's too big for me and I have a
bad shoulder right now.

If I turn the thermostats down as warm as it will go would that do it?

I'm thinking we will just keep the milk outside in a cooler for now
and chuck the rest of the food and wait for the new fridge to come on
Friday. *Either that or call the appliance store and see if they can
rush the new fridge.

It's dying fast. *I just checked and now the fridge compartment is at
52 degrees. *It was at 50 a few minutes ago.

The ice maker stopped working as well.

Would appreciate any advice on how to shut this baby down. *I guess a
look at the new fuse box they installed when they did our kitchen
might be a good idea.

Steve

Its the defroster, probably the clock timer broke in the on position
if it doesnt cool down, thats why its to warm, is there a switch
inside for energy saver mode, if not the clock is probably in the
refrigator section, mine broke in the on position, it would not cool
either. Check it after maybe 12 hours to see if its still hot, maybe
it does cycle but the element is going bad, an amp meter would tell
you alot.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

That sounds right.

I checked the temperature again this morning and now the fridge is 47
degrees and the doors are not warm.

So I guess I can breathe a little easier.

I looked in the manual and there is no mention of a defrost timer.
Looking around in the fridge and freezer compartments I don't see any
controls for this. *Just the 2 thermostats for setting the fridge or
freezer temperature. *Both of those are set to the coldest setting
now.

Looking forwards to those new appliances. *The stove was shot anyway
and now the fridge. *Dishwasher doesn't dry that well anymore either.
12 years seems like a reasonable life span.

Steve- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Defrost timers are in all friges that have defrost. Its a circuit that
cycles. My cycle pulls about 300w more so it cant by design be left
on. Yours is off now, so its not the clock but measuring amp draw
would tell you if its shorting in the element. The frige isnt shot and
it may be a simple fix, or maybe not.

On 2/27/2010 5:56 AM,
wrote:
On Feb 26, 11:40 pm, wrote:
On Feb 26, 10:31 pm, wrote:





Hi,

I posted last week about our GE Profile fridge starting to lose its
cooling power. Well, we decided to order new appliacnes and they are
coming next Friday March 5th.

In the meantime the fridge has some hot spots by the door - where the
magnetic strips connect to the fridge. Not the doors themselves, but
the front part of the fridge. It is really hot in some places and I'm
worried it is a fire hazzard. This has been coming on for a while now
that I think about it because I noticed it was getting warm in front
of the fridge going back several months now.

How can I turn this fridge off?

I can't wheel it out and unplug it. It's too big for me and I have a
bad shoulder right now.

If I turn the thermostats down as warm as it will go would that do it?

I'm thinking we will just keep the milk outside in a cooler for now
and chuck the rest of the food and wait for the new fridge to come on
Friday. Either that or call the appliance store and see if they can
rush the new fridge.

It's dying fast. I just checked and now the fridge compartment is at
52 degrees. It was at 50 a few minutes ago.

The ice maker stopped working as well.

Would appreciate any advice on how to shut this baby down. I guess a
look at the new fuse box they installed when they did our kitchen
might be a good idea.

Steve

Its the defroster, probably the clock timer broke in the on position
if it doesnt cool down, thats why its to warm, is there a switch
inside for energy saver mode, if not the clock is probably in the
refrigator section, mine broke in the on position, it would not cool
either. Check it after maybe 12 hours to see if its still hot, maybe
it does cycle but the element is going bad, an amp meter would tell
you alot.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

That sounds right.

I checked the temperature again this morning and now the fridge is 47
degrees and the doors are not warm.

So I guess I can breathe a little easier.

I looked in the manual and there is no mention of a defrost timer.
Looking around in the fridge and freezer compartments I don't see any
controls for this. Just the 2 thermostats for setting the fridge or
freezer temperature. Both of those are set to the coldest setting
now.

Looking forwards to those new appliances. The stove was shot anyway
and now the fridge. Dishwasher doesn't dry that well anymore either.
12 years seems like a reasonable life span.

Steve
First of all, setting both controls to
the highest might be part of the
problem. They usually work in a really
strange manner .... anyway, strange to
me. Usually the one in the fridge
controls the compressor which really
only cools the freezer section. The one
for the freezer mechanically meters some
of the cold air from the freezer to the
fridge section. They work together and
usually well. But, I have seen where
setting the controls in "weird" setting
will cause problems. I was told, by a
repair guy, that the best thing to do is
set them both to the mid position.
Then, after a while, if you want the
temp different in one side or another,
change the control a little bit and wait
to see the results. This has worked
good for me, but nowadays the newer
units are much more complicated and have
electronics and such controlling
everything. This is not to say that
there really is something wrong
somewhere else, but it is something to
check. BTW, the warming around the
gaskets is normal. Those heaters are
there to prevent condensation when the
humidity is high. When the unit is not
cooling properly, they will usually feel
a bit warmer.

What you have, is a fridge that's too complicated
for its own good. Hot around the magnet gaskets
is a convenience feature that reduces
condensation. The rest of the fridge being warm is
probably a bad GE circuit board. They made a LOT
of bad boards.

The fridge is typically on its own circuit
breaker. Have a helper stand with the door open.
You go try the breakers one at a time. The helper
yells and stomps a foot on the floor when the
light goes off. That's how to find which breaker
it is.

Replacing the circuit board will probably make
your fridge come back to life. The board retails
for $182. Plus the guy to come out and install it.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


wrote in message
...
Hi,

I posted last week about our GE Profile fridge
starting to lose its
cooling power. Well, we decided to order new
appliacnes and they are
coming next Friday March 5th.

In the meantime the fridge has some hot spots by
the door - where the
magnetic strips connect to the fridge. Not the
doors themselves, but
the front part of the fridge. It is really hot in
some places and I'm
worried it is a fire hazzard. This has been
coming on for a while now
that I think about it because I noticed it was
getting warm in front
of the fridge going back several months now.

How can I turn this fridge off?

I can't wheel it out and unplug it. It's too big
for me and I have a
bad shoulder right now.

If I turn the thermostats down as warm as it will
go would that do it?

I'm thinking we will just keep the milk outside in
a cooler for now
and chuck the rest of the food and wait for the
new fridge to come on
Friday. Either that or call the appliance store
and see if they can
rush the new fridge.

It's dying fast. I just checked and now the
fridge compartment is at
52 degrees. It was at 50 a few minutes ago.

The ice maker stopped working as well.

Would appreciate any advice on how to shut this
baby down. I guess a
look at the new fuse box they installed when they
did our kitchen
might be a good idea.

Steve

On 02/27/2010 07:47 AM, ransley wrote:
On Feb 27, 4:56 am, wrote:
On Feb 26, 11:40 pm, wrote:





On Feb 26, 10:31 pm, wrote:

Hi,

I posted last week about our GE Profile fridge starting to lose its
cooling power. Well, we decided to order new appliacnes and they are
coming next Friday March 5th.

In the meantime the fridge has some hot spots by the door - where the
magnetic strips connect to the fridge. Not the doors themselves, but
the front part of the fridge. It is really hot in some places and I'm
worried it is a fire hazzard. This has been coming on for a while now
that I think about it because I noticed it was getting warm in front
of the fridge going back several months now.

How can I turn this fridge off?

I can't wheel it out and unplug it. It's too big for me and I have a
bad shoulder right now.

If I turn the thermostats down as warm as it will go would that do it?

I'm thinking we will just keep the milk outside in a cooler for now
and chuck the rest of the food and wait for the new fridge to come on
Friday. Either that or call the appliance store and see if they can
rush the new fridge.

It's dying fast. I just checked and now the fridge compartment is at
52 degrees. It was at 50 a few minutes ago.

The ice maker stopped working as well.

Would appreciate any advice on how to shut this baby down. I guess a
look at the new fuse box they installed when they did our kitchen
might be a good idea.

Steve

Its the defroster, probably the clock timer broke in the on position
if it doesnt cool down, thats why its to warm, is there a switch
inside for energy saver mode, if not the clock is probably in the
refrigator section, mine broke in the on position, it would not cool
either. Check it after maybe 12 hours to see if its still hot, maybe
it does cycle but the element is going bad, an amp meter would tell
you alot.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

That sounds right.

I checked the temperature again this morning and now the fridge is 47
degrees and the doors are not warm.

So I guess I can breathe a little easier.

I looked in the manual and there is no mention of a defrost timer.
Looking around in the fridge and freezer compartments I don't see any
controls for this. Just the 2 thermostats for setting the fridge or
freezer temperature. Both of those are set to the coldest setting
now.

Looking forwards to those new appliances. The stove was shot anyway
and now the fridge. Dishwasher doesn't dry that well anymore either.
12 years seems like a reasonable life span.

Steve- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Defrost timers are in all friges that have defrost. Its a circuit that
cycles. My cycle pulls about 300w more so it cant by design be left
on. Yours is off now, so its not the clock but measuring amp draw
would tell you if its shorting in the element. The frige isnt shot and
it may be a simple fix, or maybe not.

if you have a "power saver" turn it on. the power saver turns off the
defrost elements near the door seals.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On Feb 27, 8:04*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
What you have, is a fridge that's too complicated
for its own good. *Hot around the magnet gaskets
is a convenience feature that reduces
condensation. The rest of the fridge being warm is
probably a bad GE circuit board. They made a LOT
of bad boards.

The fridge is typically on its own circuit
breaker. Have a helper stand with the door open.
You go try the breakers one at a time. The helper
yells and stomps a foot on the floor when the
light goes off. That's how to find which breaker
it is.

Replacing the circuit board will probably make
your fridge come back to life. The board retails
for $182. Plus the guy to come out and install it.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

wrote in message

...
Hi,

I posted last week about our GE Profile fridge
starting to lose its
cooling power. *Well, we decided to order new
appliacnes and they are
coming next Friday March 5th.

In the meantime the fridge has some hot spots by
the door - where the
magnetic strips connect to the fridge. *Not the
doors themselves, but
the front part of the fridge. *It is really hot in
some places and I'm
worried it is a fire hazzard. *This has been
coming on for a while now
that I think about it because I noticed it was
getting warm in front
of the fridge going back several months now.

How can I turn this fridge off?

I can't wheel it out and unplug it. *It's too big
for me and I have a
bad shoulder right now.

If I turn the thermostats down as warm as it will
go would that do it?

I'm thinking we will just keep the milk outside in
a cooler for now
and chuck the rest of the food and wait for the
new fridge to come on
Friday. *Either that or call the appliance store
and see if they can
rush the new fridge.

It's dying fast. *I just checked and now the
fridge compartment is at
52 degrees. *It was at 50 a few minutes ago.

The ice maker stopped working as well.

Would appreciate any advice on how to shut this
baby down. *I guess a
look at the new fuse box they installed when they
did our kitchen
might be a good idea.

Steve

Every fridge I've every owned could be shut off by turning the temp
dial or similar electronic control to OFF.

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in
:

What you have, is a fridge that's too complicated
for its own good. Hot around the magnet gaskets
is a convenience feature that reduces
condensation. The rest of the fridge being warm is
probably a bad GE circuit board. They made a LOT
of bad boards.

The fridge is typically on its own circuit
breaker. Have a helper stand with the door open.
You go try the breakers one at a time. The helper
yells and stomps a foot on the floor when the
light goes off. That's how to find which breaker
it is.

A radio plugged in the same outlet requires no helper.


Replacing the circuit board will probably make
your fridge come back to life. The board retails
for $182. Plus the guy to come out and install it.

On Feb 27, 9:31*am, Red Green wrote:
"Stormin Mormon" wrote :

What you have, is a fridge that's too complicated
for its own good. *Hot around the magnet gaskets
is a convenience feature that reduces
condensation. The rest of the fridge being warm is
probably a bad GE circuit board. They made a LOT
of bad boards.

The fridge is typically on its own circuit
breaker. Have a helper stand with the door open.
You go try the breakers one at a time. The helper
yells and stomps a foot on the floor when the
light goes off. That's how to find which breaker
it is.

A radio plugged in the same outlet requires no helper.




If he could get to the outlet he wouldn't need to find the breaker.
He could just unplug the fridge.

wrote

How can I turn this fridge off?

I can't wheel it out and unplug it. It's too big for me and I have a
bad shoulder right now.

Would appreciate any advice on how to shut this baby down. I guess a
look at the new fuse box they installed when they did our kitchen
might be a good idea.

Fuse box may be the right answer. My fridge is on a breaker with just one
other outlet. I'd just ignore that other outlet for the interim.

On Feb 27, 9:13*am, "cshenk" wrote:
wrote

How can I turn this fridge off?

I can't wheel it out and unplug it. *It's too big for me and I have a
bad shoulder right now.
Would appreciate any advice on how to shut this baby down. *I guess a
look at the new fuse box they installed when they did our kitchen
might be a good idea.

Fuse box may be the right answer. *My fridge is on a breaker with just one
other outlet. *I'd just ignore that other outlet for the interim.

Sounds like the OP is an older person without much practical knowledge
of how things actually work.

"hr(bob) " wrote in news:d67d773f-b2a6-
:

On Feb 27, 9:13*am, "cshenk" wrote:
wrote

How can I turn this fridge off?

I can't wheel it out and unplug it. *It's too big for me and I have a
bad shoulder right now.
Would appreciate any advice on how to shut this baby down. *I guess a
look at the new fuse box they installed when they did our kitchen
might be a good idea.

Fuse box may be the right answer. *My fridge is on a breaker with just
one
other outlet. *I'd just ignore that other outlet for the interim.

Sounds like the OP is an older person without much practical knowledge
of how things actually work.


I know a lot of younger persons like that.

A useful technique, for sure. The OP of this
thread mentions that he can't get at the outlet,
due to a bad shoulder. I've done the loud radio
thing, and found it successful. For sockets I can
get at, that is.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Red Green" wrote in
message
...

The fridge is typically on its own circuit
breaker. Have a helper stand with the door open.
You go try the breakers one at a time. The
helper
yells and stomps a foot on the floor when the
light goes off. That's how to find which breaker
it is.

A radio plugged in the same outlet requires no
helper.

Hmm. At least one other person reading the posts.
Good job.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


wrote in message
...

A radio plugged in the same outlet requires no
helper.




If he could get to the outlet he wouldn't need to
find the breaker.
He could just unplug the fridge.

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in news:hmbn9v
:

Hmm. At least one other person reading the posts.
Good job.


Hmmmm, a real court jester.

Stormin Mormon wrote:
What you have, is a fridge that's too complicated
for its own good. Hot around the magnet gaskets
is a convenience feature that reduces
condensation. The rest of the fridge being warm is
probably a bad GE circuit board. They made a LOT
of bad boards.

The fridge is typically on its own circuit
breaker. Have a helper stand with the door open.
You go try the breakers one at a time. The helper
yells and stomps a foot on the floor when the
light goes off. That's how to find which breaker
it is.

Replacing the circuit board will probably make
your fridge come back to life. The board retails
for $182. Plus the guy to come out and install it.


Everyone forgets my "Jesus Method" for finding a circuit
breaker. I have a plug with two wires that I short together
while turning my head to avoid the blinding flash and mini
explosion whilst shouting "JESUS!" When the smoke clears,
I go find the tripped breaker.

TDD