Hello,

I have done gyprocking before and did do a wonderful job on my mothers
basement back in 1981 or so... A few things I can't remember or maybe it
wasn't invented back in the day.LOL .. My question is this...... Is there a
difference between ceiling gyprock and wall gyprock? I am going to
completely gyprock a bedroom (10X13) with 1/2 inch. Do I just buy the sheets
for the entire area or do I have to seperate wall type from ceiling type?
Reason why I ask this is my brother said one type has a green stripe and
other has a red stripe incicating ceiling? Or is my brother bullsh*tting me?
Thanks... Jim

"Jim" nospam@wherever wrote in message
el...
Hello,

I have done gyprocking before and did do a wonderful job on my mothers
basement back in 1981 or so... A few things I can't remember or maybe it
wasn't invented back in the day.LOL .. My question is this...... Is there
a difference between ceiling gyprock and wall gyprock? I am going to
completely gyprock a bedroom (10X13) with 1/2 inch. Do I just buy the
sheets for the entire area or do I have to seperate wall type from ceiling
type? Reason why I ask this is my brother said one type has a green stripe
and other has a red stripe incicating ceiling? Or is my brother
bullsh*tting me? Thanks... Jim



Just get regular 1/2 inch sheetrock...Don't make it more complicated then it
needs to be for a small bedroom...If you are concerned about sagging , strap
the ceiling 16 OC with with 1X3 fir strapping...It comes in bundles of
varing lenghs and is available at ALL lumber places and Big boxes......I
don't do a ceiling without it....

Jim wrote:
Hello,

I have done gyprocking before and did do a wonderful job on my mothers
basement back in 1981 or so... A few things I can't remember or maybe it
wasn't invented back in the day.LOL .. My question is this...... Is there a
difference between ceiling gyprock and wall gyprock? I am going to
completely gyprock a bedroom (10X13) with 1/2 inch. Do I just buy the sheets
for the entire area or do I have to seperate wall type from ceiling type?
Reason why I ask this is my brother said one type has a green stripe and
other has a red stripe incicating ceiling? Or is my brother bullsh*tting me?
Thanks... Jim



There are different types of wallboard. My preference is 5/8" type X on
a basement bedroom ceiling. (better sound control, better fire rating,
and more sag resistance than regular 1/2")

If you want to go with 1/2", they do make a special 1/2" high strength
ceiling panel. There's no reason you couldn't use that for the entire
room if you want to keep things simple. (Assuming there aren't any local
building codes requiring 5/8" type X)

"Mike Paulsen" wrote in message
...
Jim wrote:
Hello,

I have done gyprocking before and did do a wonderful job on my
mothers basement back in 1981 or so... A few things I can't remember or
maybe it wasn't invented back in the day.LOL .. My question is this......
Is there a difference between ceiling gyprock and wall gyprock? I am
going to completely gyprock a bedroom (10X13) with 1/2 inch. Do I just
buy the sheets for the entire area or do I have to seperate wall type
from ceiling type? Reason why I ask this is my brother said one type has
a green stripe and other has a red stripe incicating ceiling? Or is my
brother bullsh*tting me? Thanks... Jim

There are different types of wallboard. My preference is 5/8" type X on a
basement bedroom ceiling. (better sound control, better fire rating, and
more sag resistance than regular 1/2")

If you want to go with 1/2", they do make a special 1/2" high strength
ceiling panel. There's no reason you couldn't use that for the entire room
if you want to keep things simple. (Assuming there aren't any local
building codes requiring 5/8" type X)


Let's see...How can I make this more expensive and or complicated than that
?? LOL..I could but I won't...You have sufficiently muddied the waters
enough....It's a small bedroom for crying out loud....

"Mike Paulsen" wrote in message
news
benick wrote:
"Mike Paulsen" wrote in message
...
Jim wrote:
Hello,

I have done gyprocking before and did do a wonderful job on my
mothers basement back in 1981 or so... A few things I can't remember or
maybe it wasn't invented back in the day.LOL .. My question is
this...... Is there a difference between ceiling gyprock and wall
gyprock? I am going to completely gyprock a bedroom (10X13) with 1/2
inch. Do I just buy the sheets for the entire area or do I have to
seperate wall type from ceiling type? Reason why I ask this is my
brother said one type has a green stripe and other has a red stripe
incicating ceiling? Or is my brother bullsh*tting me? Thanks... Jim

There are different types of wallboard. My preference is 5/8" type X on
a basement bedroom ceiling. (better sound control, better fire rating,
and more sag resistance than regular 1/2")

If you want to go with 1/2", they do make a special 1/2" high strength
ceiling panel. There's no reason you couldn't use that for the entire
room if you want to keep things simple. (Assuming there aren't any local
building codes requiring 5/8" type X)


Let's see...How can I make this more expensive and or complicated than
that ?? LOL. I could but I won't...

You already did. Or do you not recall suggesting that he strap the
ceiling with 1x3s?

It's neither complicated nor significantly more expensive to hang 5/8"
on ceilings and 1/2" on walls. Ditto for using 1/2" high strength
ceiling panels for the whole project.

You have sufficiently muddied the waters enough....It's a small bedroom
for crying out loud....

You might be surprised to learn that small rooms make up a significant
portion of some people's homes, and that they take pride in doing a good
job, even in those rooms.





Strapping the ceiling is SOP and is available everywhere..Special order
sheetrock not so much...Strapping also helps hold the weight of the
insulation off the drywall preventing screw pops and sagging as well as
making the ceiling less wavey and is a MUCH stronger finished product with
less chance of cracking....But you probably know more about it than I
do...I've only done it every day for about 20 years...

benick wrote:
"Mike Paulsen" wrote in message
news
benick wrote:
"Mike Paulsen" wrote in message
...
Jim wrote:
Hello,

I have done gyprocking before and did do a wonderful job on my
mothers basement back in 1981 or so... A few things I can't
remember or maybe it wasn't invented back in the day.LOL .. My
question is this...... Is there a difference between ceiling
gyprock and wall gyprock? I am going to completely gyprock a
bedroom (10X13) with 1/2 inch. Do I just buy the sheets for the
entire area or do I have to seperate wall type from ceiling type?
Reason why I ask this is my brother said one type has a green
stripe and other has a red stripe incicating ceiling? Or is my
brother bullsh*tting me? Thanks... Jim

There are different types of wallboard. My preference is 5/8" type X
on a basement bedroom ceiling. (better sound control, better fire
rating, and more sag resistance than regular 1/2")

If you want to go with 1/2", they do make a special 1/2" high
strength ceiling panel. There's no reason you couldn't use that for
the entire room if you want to keep things simple. (Assuming there
aren't any local building codes requiring 5/8" type X)


Let's see...How can I make this more expensive and or complicated
than that ?? LOL. I could but I won't...

You already did. Or do you not recall suggesting that he strap the
ceiling with 1x3s?

It's neither complicated nor significantly more expensive to hang 5/8"
on ceilings and 1/2" on walls. Ditto for using 1/2" high strength
ceiling panels for the whole project.

You have sufficiently muddied the waters enough....It's a small
bedroom for crying out loud....

You might be surprised to learn that small rooms make up a significant
portion of some people's homes, and that they take pride in doing a
good job, even in those rooms.





Strapping the ceiling is SOP and is available everywhere..Special order
sheetrock not so much...Strapping also helps hold the weight of the
insulation off the drywall preventing screw pops and sagging as well as
making the ceiling less wavey and is a MUCH stronger finished product
with less chance of cracking....But you probably know more about it than
I do...I've only done it every day for about 20 years...

Must be a regional and/or recent SOP. I saw hundreds of new construction
ceilings, residential to light commercial, installed as a kid in
Indiana, and never saw strapping used once. Only time I ever saw it was
on remodels, to even out a wavy ceiling, with shims as needed.

Not saying you are wrong, mind you, or that it is a bad idea. Just that
I never saw it commonly done.

--
aem sends...

"aemeijers" wrote in message
...
benick wrote:
"Mike Paulsen" wrote in message
news
benick wrote:
"Mike Paulsen" wrote in message
...
Jim wrote:
Hello,

I have done gyprocking before and did do a wonderful job on my
mothers basement back in 1981 or so... A few things I can't remember
or maybe it wasn't invented back in the day.LOL .. My question is
this...... Is there a difference between ceiling gyprock and wall
gyprock? I am going to completely gyprock a bedroom (10X13) with 1/2
inch. Do I just buy the sheets for the entire area or do I have to
seperate wall type from ceiling type? Reason why I ask this is my
brother said one type has a green stripe and other has a red stripe
incicating ceiling? Or is my brother bullsh*tting me? Thanks... Jim

There are different types of wallboard. My preference is 5/8" type X
on a basement bedroom ceiling. (better sound control, better fire
rating, and more sag resistance than regular 1/2")

If you want to go with 1/2", they do make a special 1/2" high strength
ceiling panel. There's no reason you couldn't use that for the entire
room if you want to keep things simple. (Assuming there aren't any
local building codes requiring 5/8" type X)


Let's see...How can I make this more expensive and or complicated than
that ?? LOL. I could but I won't...

You already did. Or do you not recall suggesting that he strap the
ceiling with 1x3s?

It's neither complicated nor significantly more expensive to hang 5/8"
on ceilings and 1/2" on walls. Ditto for using 1/2" high strength
ceiling panels for the whole project.

You have sufficiently muddied the waters enough....It's a small bedroom
for crying out loud....

You might be surprised to learn that small rooms make up a significant
portion of some people's homes, and that they take pride in doing a good
job, even in those rooms.





Strapping the ceiling is SOP and is available everywhere..Special order
sheetrock not so much...Strapping also helps hold the weight of the
insulation off the drywall preventing screw pops and sagging as well as
making the ceiling less wavey and is a MUCH stronger finished product
with less chance of cracking....But you probably know more about it than
I do...I've only done it every day for about 20 years...

Must be a regional and/or recent SOP. I saw hundreds of new construction
ceilings, residential to light commercial, installed as a kid in Indiana,
and never saw strapping used once. Only time I ever saw it was on
remodels, to even out a wavy ceiling, with shims as needed.

Not saying you are wrong, mind you, or that it is a bad idea. Just that I
never saw it commonly done.

--
aem sends...



SOP for about 20 years here in New England...You must be an old
fart...LOL...

benick wrote:
"Mike Paulsen" wrote in message
news
benick wrote:
"Mike Paulsen" wrote in message
...
Jim wrote:
Hello,

I have done gyprocking before and did do a wonderful job on my
mothers basement back in 1981 or so... A few things I can't
remember or maybe it wasn't invented back in the day.LOL .. My
question is this...... Is there a difference between ceiling
gyprock and wall gyprock? I am going to completely gyprock a
bedroom (10X13) with 1/2 inch. Do I just buy the sheets for the
entire area or do I have to seperate wall type from ceiling type?
Reason why I ask this is my brother said one type has a green
stripe and other has a red stripe incicating ceiling? Or is my
brother bullsh*tting me? Thanks... Jim

There are different types of wallboard. My preference is 5/8" type X
on a basement bedroom ceiling. (better sound control, better fire
rating, and more sag resistance than regular 1/2")

If you want to go with 1/2", they do make a special 1/2" high
strength ceiling panel. There's no reason you couldn't use that for
the entire room if you want to keep things simple. (Assuming there
aren't any local building codes requiring 5/8" type X)


Let's see...How can I make this more expensive and or complicated
than that ?? LOL. I could but I won't...

You already did. Or do you not recall suggesting that he strap the
ceiling with 1x3s?

It's neither complicated nor significantly more expensive to hang 5/8"
on ceilings and 1/2" on walls. Ditto for using 1/2" high strength
ceiling panels for the whole project.

You have sufficiently muddied the waters enough....It's a small
bedroom for crying out loud....

You might be surprised to learn that small rooms make up a significant
portion of some people's homes, and that they take pride in doing a
good job, even in those rooms.





Strapping the ceiling is SOP

Perhaps in your locale. From the discussions I've seen, strapping is not
a widespread practice in the US. It seems to be most popular in parts of
the NE, but like many cause-we-always-done-it-that-way practices, it can
vary from one town to the next.

Around here, walls are framed 8' 1-1/8" from subfloor to joist. That
allows for 5/8 drywall and 1/2" gap at the bottom. If we decided to
start strapping every ceiling, we'd either have to convince the framers
to build the walls 3/4" higher or we'd be stripping 3/4" off the lower
sheets on the walls. If strapping is standard in your locale and you
want to quit doing it, you'd have to use your drywall stretcher to make
up the 3/4". Inertia wins the argument.

and is available everywhere..Special order
sheetrock not so much

Neither 5/8" nor 1/2" ceiling board are special order in my locale. Both
the drywall supply house and the local Menards stock them.

...Strapping also helps hold the weight of the
insulation off the drywall preventing screw pops and sagging

That shouldn't be a problem with normal insulation loads. R49 fiberglass
is 1lb/sqft. 5/8" with 24oc and 1/2" ceiling board with 16oc are rated
for 2.2lb/sqft. 1/2" ceiling 24oc is rated at 1.3.

as well as
making the ceiling less wavey

If the framing is wavy then shims and strapping can be a good way to
address that problem. That isn't a reason to strap every ceiling.

and is a MUCH stronger finished product
with less chance of cracking....

Strapping isn't structural. Maybe your strapping provides a similar
function to the blocking and/or bridging between joists which is
standard here. And cracking isn't a problem.

But you probably know more about it than
I do...

I might.

I've only done it every day for about 20 years...

I haven't done it _every_ day, but I started before you.
(And good god man, take a day off now and then.)

Next up: Mesh vs. Paper. Why your choice sucks.

Followed by: Adhesive. If I use this glue crap, can I get by with using
one screw in the field?

On Fri, 29 Jan 2010 01:11:59 -0500, "benick"
wrote:

"aemeijers" wrote in message
m...
benick wrote:
"Mike Paulsen" wrote in message
news benick wrote:
"Mike Paulsen" wrote in message
...
Jim wrote:
Hello,

I have done gyprocking before and did do a wonderful job on my
mothers basement back in 1981 or so... A few things I can't remember
or maybe it wasn't invented back in the day.LOL .. My question is
this...... Is there a difference between ceiling gyprock and wall
gyprock? I am going to completely gyprock a bedroom (10X13) with 1/2
inch. Do I just buy the sheets for the entire area or do I have to
seperate wall type from ceiling type? Reason why I ask this is my
brother said one type has a green stripe and other has a red stripe
incicating ceiling? Or is my brother bullsh*tting me? Thanks... Jim

There are different types of wallboard. My preference is 5/8" type X
on a basement bedroom ceiling. (better sound control, better fire
rating, and more sag resistance than regular 1/2")

If you want to go with 1/2", they do make a special 1/2" high strength
ceiling panel. There's no reason you couldn't use that for the entire
room if you want to keep things simple. (Assuming there aren't any
local building codes requiring 5/8" type X)


Let's see...How can I make this more expensive and or complicated than
that ?? LOL. I could but I won't...

You already did. Or do you not recall suggesting that he strap the
ceiling with 1x3s?

It's neither complicated nor significantly more expensive to hang 5/8"
on ceilings and 1/2" on walls. Ditto for using 1/2" high strength
ceiling panels for the whole project.

You have sufficiently muddied the waters enough....It's a small bedroom
for crying out loud....

You might be surprised to learn that small rooms make up a significant
portion of some people's homes, and that they take pride in doing a good
job, even in those rooms.





Strapping the ceiling is SOP and is available everywhere..Special order
sheetrock not so much...Strapping also helps hold the weight of the
insulation off the drywall preventing screw pops and sagging as well as
making the ceiling less wavey and is a MUCH stronger finished product
with less chance of cracking....But you probably know more about it than
I do...I've only done it every day for about 20 years...

Must be a regional and/or recent SOP. I saw hundreds of new construction
ceilings, residential to light commercial, installed as a kid in Indiana,
and never saw strapping used once. Only time I ever saw it was on
remodels, to even out a wavy ceiling, with shims as needed.

Not saying you are wrong, mind you, or that it is a bad idea. Just that I
never saw it commonly done.

--
aem sends...



SOP for about 20 years here in New England...You must be an old
fart...LOL...

No. Old farts uses lathe and plaster.

benick wrote:
"aemeijers" wrote in message
...
benick wrote:
"Mike Paulsen" wrote in message
news benick wrote:
"Mike Paulsen" wrote in message
...
Jim wrote:
Hello,

I have done gyprocking before and did do a wonderful job on
my mothers basement back in 1981 or so... A few things I can't
remember or maybe it wasn't invented back in the day.LOL .. My
question is this...... Is there a difference between ceiling
gyprock and wall gyprock? I am going to completely gyprock a
bedroom (10X13) with 1/2 inch. Do I just buy the sheets for the
entire area or do I have to seperate wall type from ceiling type?
Reason why I ask this is my brother said one type has a green
stripe and other has a red stripe incicating ceiling? Or is my
brother bullsh*tting me? Thanks... Jim

There are different types of wallboard. My preference is 5/8" type
X on a basement bedroom ceiling. (better sound control, better
fire rating, and more sag resistance than regular 1/2")

If you want to go with 1/2", they do make a special 1/2" high
strength ceiling panel. There's no reason you couldn't use that
for the entire room if you want to keep things simple. (Assuming
there aren't any local building codes requiring 5/8" type X)


Let's see...How can I make this more expensive and or complicated
than that ?? LOL. I could but I won't...

You already did. Or do you not recall suggesting that he strap the
ceiling with 1x3s?

It's neither complicated nor significantly more expensive to hang 5/8"
on ceilings and 1/2" on walls. Ditto for using 1/2" high strength
ceiling panels for the whole project.

You have sufficiently muddied the waters enough....It's a small
bedroom for crying out loud....

You might be surprised to learn that small rooms make up a
significant portion of some people's homes, and that they take pride
in doing a good job, even in those rooms.





Strapping the ceiling is SOP and is available everywhere..Special
order sheetrock not so much...Strapping also helps hold the weight of
the insulation off the drywall preventing screw pops and sagging as
well as making the ceiling less wavey and is a MUCH stronger finished
product with less chance of cracking....But you probably know more
about it than I do...I've only done it every day for about 20 years...

Must be a regional and/or recent SOP. I saw hundreds of new
construction ceilings, residential to light commercial, installed as a
kid in Indiana, and never saw strapping used once. Only time I ever
saw it was on remodels, to even out a wavy ceiling, with shims as needed.

Not saying you are wrong, mind you, or that it is a bad idea. Just
that I never saw it commonly done.

--
aem sends...



SOP for about 20 years here in New England...You must be an old
fart...LOL...

No, but I haven't swung a hammer for pay in about 25-30 years- decided I
wanted me one of them inside jobs with a steady paycheck, so I went to
work for the gummint. (And the knowledge I gained on the construction
sites as a kid as been easily as useful as the knowledge I gained in
college, but I digress...)

I'll admit, southern/central Indiana doesn't have near the volume of
100-300 year old houses like New England does. Last time I was up there
a few years ago, I didn't see ANY new construction on residences, since
all the little towns are pretty well built out. I'm sure there must be
young suburbs somewhere up there, but not in any of the places where my
relatives live.

--
aem sends...

"Mike Paulsen" wrote in message
...
benick wrote:
"Mike Paulsen" wrote in message
news
benick wrote:
"Mike Paulsen" wrote in message
...
Jim wrote:
Hello,

I have done gyprocking before and did do a wonderful job on my
mothers basement back in 1981 or so... A few things I can't remember
or maybe it wasn't invented back in the day.LOL .. My question is
this...... Is there a difference between ceiling gyprock and wall
gyprock? I am going to completely gyprock a bedroom (10X13) with 1/2
inch. Do I just buy the sheets for the entire area or do I have to
seperate wall type from ceiling type? Reason why I ask this is my
brother said one type has a green stripe and other has a red stripe
incicating ceiling? Or is my brother bullsh*tting me? Thanks... Jim

There are different types of wallboard. My preference is 5/8" type X
on a basement bedroom ceiling. (better sound control, better fire
rating, and more sag resistance than regular 1/2")

If you want to go with 1/2", they do make a special 1/2" high strength
ceiling panel. There's no reason you couldn't use that for the entire
room if you want to keep things simple. (Assuming there aren't any
local building codes requiring 5/8" type X)


Let's see...How can I make this more expensive and or complicated than
that ?? LOL. I could but I won't...

You already did. Or do you not recall suggesting that he strap the
ceiling with 1x3s?

It's neither complicated nor significantly more expensive to hang 5/8"
on ceilings and 1/2" on walls. Ditto for using 1/2" high strength
ceiling panels for the whole project.

You have sufficiently muddied the waters enough....It's a small bedroom
for crying out loud....

You might be surprised to learn that small rooms make up a significant
portion of some people's homes, and that they take pride in doing a good
job, even in those rooms.





Strapping the ceiling is SOP

Perhaps in your locale. From the discussions I've seen, strapping is not a
widespread practice in the US. It seems to be most popular in parts of the
NE, but like many cause-we-always-done-it-that-way practices, it can vary
from one town to the next.

Around here, walls are framed 8' 1-1/8" from subfloor to joist. That
allows for 5/8 drywall and 1/2" gap at the bottom. If we decided to start
strapping every ceiling, we'd either have to convince the framers to build
the walls 3/4" higher or we'd be stripping 3/4" off the lower sheets on
the walls. If strapping is standard in your locale and you want to quit
doing it, you'd have to use your drywall stretcher to make up the 3/4".
Inertia wins the argument.

and is available everywhere..Special order sheetrock not so much

Neither 5/8" nor 1/2" ceiling board are special order in my locale. Both
the drywall supply house and the local Menards stock them.

...Strapping also helps hold the weight of the insulation off the drywall
preventing screw pops and sagging

That shouldn't be a problem with normal insulation loads. R49 fiberglass
is 1lb/sqft. 5/8" with 24oc and 1/2" ceiling board with 16oc are rated
for 2.2lb/sqft. 1/2" ceiling 24oc is rated at 1.3.

as well as making the ceiling less wavey

If the framing is wavy then shims and strapping can be a good way to
address that problem. That isn't a reason to strap every ceiling.

and is a MUCH stronger finished product with less chance of cracking....

Strapping isn't structural. Maybe your strapping provides a similar
function to the blocking and/or bridging between joists which is standard
here. And cracking isn't a problem.

But you probably know more about it than I do...

I might.

I've only done it every day for about 20 years...

I haven't done it _every_ day, but I started before you.
(And good god man, take a day off now and then.)

Next up: Mesh vs. Paper. Why your choice sucks.

Followed by: Adhesive. If I use this glue crap, can I get by with using
one screw in the field?



Here is a Bing search with many links for you to look over about strapping a
ceiling...Pay CLOSE attention to the one about Truss movement and learn how
to do it right...

http://www.bing.com/search?q=strappi...st=1&FORM=PERE

benick wrote:
(snip)

Here is a Bing search with many links for you to look over about
strapping a ceiling...Pay CLOSE attention to the one about Truss
movement and learn how to do it right...

http://www.bing.com/search?q=strappi...st=1&FORM=PERE


OK, I'll look...

1. An East Coast jack-of-all-trades thinks strapping is a good idea. No
surprise there, but no compelling rationale either.

2. TOH video. Remodel. They're hanging over an existing strapped and
lathed ceiling. They made some structural changes, so need to add a bit
of strapping to maintain the existing plane of the ceiling before
hanging. Also note they use 5/8 firecode, not 1/2".

3. DIY site.
"the ceiling should be strapped to ease installation."
"Installation is about 5x more difficult! Without strapping"
Not a good reason, unless you find hanging difficult without it.
"Unlike wall installations where the studs never move."
Wall studs never move? He must not ever operate
doors or windows. Nor does he have kids.
"Joists flex under the weight of foot traffic and furniture above"
Deflection in properly framed floors isn't a problem
for drywall (L/240).

4. DIY guy wants to strap his ceiling because the electrician ran cable
under the joists. The only responder to suggest he should strap the
ceiling says he's "no expert" and is just "under the impression" that
strapping is a good idea.

5. DIY guy wants to know whether to strap or not. Respondent says:
"Strapping is usually used to fix defects in the framing - joists with
too much span or uneven. If the joists/rafters are uneven, shimming the
strapping will help to level it out. It can also be neccesary to allow
for more insulation and/or air space for ventilation. Attaching directly
to the joists/rafters is the most common method."

6. Duplicate of #1. Yes, the same exact article.

7. Someone asks a question about the strapping in the video in #2. He
hasn't ever seen it done before. The only response is an incorrect guess
that he's talking about hat channel.

8. Same TOH video as #2

9. Guy wants to strap to fix an out of plane ceiling joist problem.
Professional drywaller suggest RC channel rather than wood strapping.
Another concurs. OP says strapping and shimming is a pain.

#10 is Yahoo! Answers. Someone asking if 32"oc is too much of a span for
drywall. I'm going to guess that one of the answers is yes, and that he
should install strapping.

I did a bit of looking around myself and didn't find much suggesting
strapping is routinely done for any reason other than
Tevyetradition... TRADITION! /Tevye

I did find one actual building professional who says that 1x4 strapping
is better than bridging for reducing floor bounce. But that's a fix for
a problem that shouldn't be present in new construction, not a way to
get a better ceiling.

As for truss lift, I don't see how strapping would help with that. If
the strapping is attached to the truss, and the wallboard is attached to
the strapping, it's all going to move together. How is that different
than if the drywall were attached directly to the truss?

I found one reputable guy who says strapping helps with the truss uplift
problem, but it's clear from his explanation that the strapping is done
_before_ the non-load bearing walls are framed, and that the top plates
are attached to the strapping rather than the trusses. I can see how
that would help as long as the strapping wasn't attached to the trusses
near where the top plates where attached to the strapping. But that
would _not_ apply to cases where strapping was applied after the
interior walls were framed, which is what you appear to be advocating.

The answer to truss uplift is floating the corners and/or roof-truss
clips. At least, that's what the engineers, building scientists, and
gypsum association say.

I'm not aware of any building codes nor wallboard manufacturer's
specifications which recommend or require strapping. I never hesitate to
point out that codes are minimum, rather than optimal, standards, so I'm
not claiming strapping might not have it's advantages. I just don't
think it's necessary to strap to get a high quality ceiling, and I think
that's pretty much the consensus opinion.

"Mike Paulsen" wrote in message
...
benick wrote:
(snip)

Here is a Bing search with many links for you to look over about
strapping a ceiling...Pay CLOSE attention to the one about Truss movement
and learn how to do it right...

http://www.bing.com/search?q=strappi...st=1&FORM=PERE

OK, I'll look...

1. An East Coast jack-of-all-trades thinks strapping is a good idea. No
surprise there, but no compelling rationale either.

2. TOH video. Remodel. They're hanging over an existing strapped and
lathed ceiling. They made some structural changes, so need to add a bit of
strapping to maintain the existing plane of the ceiling before hanging.
Also note they use 5/8 firecode, not 1/2".

3. DIY site.
"the ceiling should be strapped to ease installation."
"Installation is about 5x more difficult! Without strapping"
Not a good reason, unless you find hanging difficult without it.
"Unlike wall installations where the studs never move."
Wall studs never move? He must not ever operate
doors or windows. Nor does he have kids.
"Joists flex under the weight of foot traffic and furniture above"
Deflection in properly framed floors isn't a problem
for drywall (L/240).

4. DIY guy wants to strap his ceiling because the electrician ran cable
under the joists. The only responder to suggest he should strap the
ceiling says he's "no expert" and is just "under the impression" that
strapping is a good idea.

5. DIY guy wants to know whether to strap or not. Respondent says:
"Strapping is usually used to fix defects in the framing - joists with too
much span or uneven. If the joists/rafters are uneven, shimming the
strapping will help to level it out. It can also be neccesary to allow for
more insulation and/or air space for ventilation. Attaching directly to
the joists/rafters is the most common method."

6. Duplicate of #1. Yes, the same exact article.

7. Someone asks a question about the strapping in the video in #2. He
hasn't ever seen it done before. The only response is an incorrect guess
that he's talking about hat channel.

8. Same TOH video as #2

9. Guy wants to strap to fix an out of plane ceiling joist problem.
Professional drywaller suggest RC channel rather than wood strapping.
Another concurs. OP says strapping and shimming is a pain.

#10 is Yahoo! Answers. Someone asking if 32"oc is too much of a span for
drywall. I'm going to guess that one of the answers is yes, and that he
should install strapping.

I did a bit of looking around myself and didn't find much suggesting
strapping is routinely done for any reason other than Tevyetradition...
TRADITION! /Tevye

I did find one actual building professional who says that 1x4 strapping is
better than bridging for reducing floor bounce. But that's a fix for a
problem that shouldn't be present in new construction, not a way to get a
better ceiling.

As for truss lift, I don't see how strapping would help with that. If the
strapping is attached to the truss, and the wallboard is attached to the
strapping, it's all going to move together. How is that different than if
the drywall were attached directly to the truss?

I found one reputable guy who says strapping helps with the truss uplift
problem, but it's clear from his explanation that the strapping is done
_before_ the non-load bearing walls are framed, and that the top plates
are attached to the strapping rather than the trusses. I can see how that
would help as long as the strapping wasn't attached to the trusses near
where the top plates where attached to the strapping. But that would _not_
apply to cases where strapping was applied after the interior walls were
framed, which is what you appear to be advocating.

The answer to truss uplift is floating the corners and/or roof-truss
clips. At least, that's what the engineers, building scientists, and
gypsum association say.

I'm not aware of any building codes nor wallboard manufacturer's
specifications which recommend or require strapping. I never hesitate to
point out that codes are minimum, rather than optimal, standards, so I'm
not claiming strapping might not have it's advantages. I just don't think
it's necessary to strap to get a high quality ceiling, and I think that's
pretty much the consensus opinion.



It's hacks like you that make guys like me that do it right look
good....Thanks..Keep up the good work...