Along my concrete block walls, I have 1/2" furring strips every 16", then
sheetrocks are attached to the furring strips. The furring strips make it
possible for 1/2" electrical conduits and copper pipes to run across or up
and down the walls.

In some cases I have 3/4" pipes or electrical conduits, so I go with 3/4"
furring strips.

In some cases in a shower area, I have shower valves that sticks out further
and it needs 1.5" of space. Now, I can attach 2x2 or 2x4 turned on it's
face to the concrete wall and furr it out this way. Or may be at 1.5" I
might as well build a real wall butt up against the concrete wall, with it's
own top and bottom plates.

At what depth do you think it crosses the threshold form using furring
strips to a real wall?

Thanks in advance,

MC

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
Along my concrete block walls, I have 1/2" furring strips every 16", then
sheetrocks are attached to the furring strips. The furring strips make it
possible for 1/2" electrical conduits and copper pipes to run across or up
and down the walls.

In some cases I have 3/4" pipes or electrical conduits, so I go with 3/4"
furring strips.

In some cases in a shower area, I have shower valves that sticks out
further and it needs 1.5" of space. Now, I can attach 2x2 or 2x4 turned
on it's face to the concrete wall and furr it out this way. Or may be at
1.5" I might as well build a real wall butt up against the concrete wall,
with it's own top and bottom plates.

At what depth do you think it crosses the threshold form using furring
strips to a real wall?

Thanks in advance,

MC
I think once I get to something like attaching a shower valve, which implies
shower walls of tile or something heavier than just drywall, I'd go with
framing out a full 2x4 wall for the strength and stability. Not knowing
where you are located, the added space for insulation might be a benefit as
well.

Along my concrete block walls, I have 1/2" furring strips every 16",
then sheetrocks are attached to the furring strips. The furring
strips make it possible for 1/2" electrical conduits and copper pipes
to run across or up and down the walls.
In some cases I have 3/4" pipes or electrical conduits, so I go with
3/4" furring strips.
In some cases in a shower area, I have shower valves that sticks out
further and it needs 1.5" of space. Now, I can attach 2x2 or 2x4
turned on it's face to the concrete wall and furr it out this way. Or
may be at 1.5" I might as well build a real wall butt up against the
concrete wall, with it's own top and bottom plates.
At what depth do you think it crosses the threshold form using furring
strips to a real wall?

I would consider anything up to 1X material to be furring. Once I have
bought a 2x4, I might as well turn it on edge and use it as actual studs.
You'll have more room for pipes, wires, etc., and can add more insulation
if needed.

Also, I would be a little concerned about piercing wires and pipes run in a
3/4" or less furred space when hanging drywall, a picture, shelves, etc.
In a normal stud wall the wires/pipes are set back far enough that a 1-
1/2" screw wouldn't reach them, or you install metal protector plates if
they are close to the face of the stud. Just something to think about.

Anthony

On Jan 19, 11:12*am, HerHusband wrote:
Along my concrete block walls, I have 1/2" furring strips every 16",
then sheetrocks are attached to the furring strips. *The furring
strips make it possible for 1/2" electrical conduits and copper pipes
to run across or up and down the walls.
In some cases I have 3/4" pipes or electrical conduits, so I go with
3/4" furring strips.
In some cases in a shower area, I have shower valves that sticks out
further and it needs 1.5" of space. *Now, I can attach 2x2 or 2x4
turned on it's face to the concrete wall and furr it out this way. *Or
may be at 1.5" I might as well build a real wall butt up against the
concrete wall, with it's own top and bottom plates.
At what depth do you think it crosses the threshold form using furring
strips to a real wall?

I would consider anything up to 1X material to be furring. *Once I have
bought a 2x4, I might as well turn it on edge and use it as actual studs. *
You'll have more room for pipes, wires, etc., and can add more insulation
if needed.

Also, I would be a little concerned about piercing wires and pipes run in a
3/4" or less furred space when hanging drywall, a picture, shelves, etc. *
In a normal stud wall the wires/pipes are set back far enough that a 1-
1/2" screw wouldn't reach them, or you install metal protector plates if
they are close to the face of the stud. Just something to think about.

Anthony

Must be a climate zone with no chance of freezing through the
'outside' concret block wall?
Here we would not put water pipes in close proximity to a cold outside
wall, unless that wall was several feet below ground.
Also if the living are is heated any chance of condensation on the
cool block wall behind the sheetrock?

Several have asked where the OP is located. Just a WAG here, uhhh--
maybe Miami??

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
Along my concrete block walls, I have 1/2" furring strips every 16", then
sheetrocks are attached to the furring strips. The furring strips make it
possible for 1/2" electrical conduits and copper pipes to run across or up
and down the walls.

In some cases I have 3/4" pipes or electrical conduits, so I go with 3/4"
furring strips.

In some cases in a shower area, I have shower valves that sticks out
further and it needs 1.5" of space. Now, I can attach 2x2 or 2x4 turned
on it's face to the concrete wall and furr it out this way. Or may be at
1.5" I might as well build a real wall butt up against the concrete wall,
with it's own top and bottom plates.

At what depth do you think it crosses the threshold form using furring
strips to a real wall?

Thanks in advance,

MC



Don't have a clue what you are doing or where.

Here if you finish a basement to code, you build stud walls and insulate
them.

I personally think it is a good rule.


--
Colbyt
Please come visit www.househomerepair.com

On Jan 19, 10:22*am, (Lp1331 1p1331) wrote:
Several have asked where the OP is located. Just a WAG here, uhhh--
maybe Miami?? *

You are right, I am in Miami, Florida.

On Jan 19, 9:28*am, terry wrote:
On Jan 19, 11:12*am, HerHusband wrote:



Along my concrete block walls, I have 1/2" furring strips every 16",
then sheetrocks are attached to the furring strips. *The furring
strips make it possible for 1/2" electrical conduits and copper pipes
to run across or up and down the walls.
In some cases I have 3/4" pipes or electrical conduits, so I go with
3/4" furring strips.
In some cases in a shower area, I have shower valves that sticks out
further and it needs 1.5" of space. *Now, I can attach 2x2 or 2x4
turned on it's face to the concrete wall and furr it out this way. *Or
may be at 1.5" I might as well build a real wall butt up against the
concrete wall, with it's own top and bottom plates.
At what depth do you think it crosses the threshold form using furring
strips to a real wall?

I would consider anything up to 1X material to be furring. *Once I have
bought a 2x4, I might as well turn it on edge and use it as actual studs. *
You'll have more room for pipes, wires, etc., and can add more insulation
if needed.

Also, I would be a little concerned about piercing wires and pipes run in a
3/4" or less furred space when hanging drywall, a picture, shelves, etc.. *
In a normal stud wall the wires/pipes are set back far enough that a 1-
1/2" screw wouldn't reach them, or you install metal protector plates if
they are close to the face of the stud. Just something to think about.

Anthony

Must be a climate zone with no chance of freezing through the
'outside' concret block wall?
Here we would not put water pipes in close proximity to a cold outside
wall, unless that wall was several feet below ground.
Also if the living are is heated any chance of condensation on the
cool block wall behind the sheetrock?

I am in south Florida so freezing is not a concern, I do have a
fireplace but have never used it, but the last arctic blast we had
this month did go down to 34 degrees and it was cold so we did have
the heat on for about two days, first time we turned it on in three
years.

Yes I am installing metal protector in front of all pipes and
conduits.

Thanks

On Tue, 19 Jan 2010 11:05:33 -0800 (PST), MiamiCuse
wrote:

On Jan 19, 10:22*am, (Lp1331 1p1331) wrote:
Several have asked where the OP is located. Just a WAG here, uhhh--
maybe Miami?? *

You are right, I am in Miami, Florida.

Since we're outing you.g Is the last 1/2 of your tag what I have
been reading it as for years?

Other than to refer to an Orangeman, I've only seen the word once in a
short story by Tim O'Brien, but it was used in a derogatory sense & I
can't imagine why you'd use it. OTOH- you're a long way from
Syracuse.

Inquiring mind. . .
Jim

"Jim Elbrecht" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 19 Jan 2010 11:05:33 -0800 (PST), MiamiCuse
wrote:

On Jan 19, 10:22 am, (Lp1331 1p1331) wrote:
Several have asked where the OP is located. Just a WAG here, uhhh--
maybe Miami??

You are right, I am in Miami, Florida.

Since we're outing you.g Is the last 1/2 of your tag what I have
been reading it as for years?

Other than to refer to an Orangeman, I've only seen the word once in a
short story by Tim O'Brien, but it was used in a derogatory sense & I
can't imagine why you'd use it. OTOH- you're a long way from
Syracuse.

well, let's just say I am a long way for a good reason LOL.

Inquiring mind. . .
Jim

"HerHusband" wrote in message
...
Along my concrete block walls, I have 1/2" furring strips every 16",
then sheetrocks are attached to the furring strips. The furring
strips make it possible for 1/2" electrical conduits and copper pipes
to run across or up and down the walls.
In some cases I have 3/4" pipes or electrical conduits, so I go with
3/4" furring strips.
In some cases in a shower area, I have shower valves that sticks out
further and it needs 1.5" of space. Now, I can attach 2x2 or 2x4
turned on it's face to the concrete wall and furr it out this way. Or
may be at 1.5" I might as well build a real wall butt up against the
concrete wall, with it's own top and bottom plates.
At what depth do you think it crosses the threshold form using furring
strips to a real wall?

I would consider anything up to 1X material to be furring. Once I have
bought a 2x4, I might as well turn it on edge and use it as actual studs.
You'll have more room for pipes, wires, etc., and can add more insulation
if needed.

Also, I would be a little concerned about piercing wires and pipes run in
a
3/4" or less furred space when hanging drywall, a picture, shelves, etc.
In a normal stud wall the wires/pipes are set back far enough that a 1-
1/2" screw wouldn't reach them, or you install metal protector plates if
they are close to the face of the stud. Just something to think about.

Anthony



That's what I am wrestling with. I do have metal protector plates, but if I
go with the full 2x4, on both sides, then my shower shrinks by two inches.

MiamiCuse wrote:
Along my concrete block walls, I have 1/2" furring strips every 16", then
sheetrocks are attached to the furring strips. The furring strips make it
possible for 1/2" electrical conduits and copper pipes to run across or up
and down the walls.

In some cases I have 3/4" pipes or electrical conduits, so I go with 3/4"
furring strips.

In some cases in a shower area, I have shower valves that sticks out further
and it needs 1.5" of space. Now, I can attach 2x2 or 2x4 turned on it's
face to the concrete wall and furr it out this way. Or may be at 1.5" I
might as well build a real wall butt up against the concrete wall, with it's
own top and bottom plates.

At what depth do you think it crosses the threshold form using furring
strips to a real wall?

Thanks in advance,

MC

To answer your question, if you are applying anything to an existing
wall you are "furring out". A real wall will stand by itself and is
built as a standalone product.

Robert Allison