rb wrote:
How do you get tubs out of tight spots in small bathrooms?

Seems like maybe we can saw it up. Does that work?

Looks like the tub is longer than the remainder of the space it's in.


If you are swapping tubs, I presume the bathroom is a gut job? (Seeing
as how tub goes in before bathroom is anything more than studs, to begin
with). What does tub back up to, or one end butt up to? Sometimes the
quickest and least painful solution is to yank a couple studs, and take
it out through the next room, assuming you have the space and manpower
to rotate it in mid-air to make it out through the hole. Look at it this
way- you'll be doing drywall in the bathroom anyway. How hard is redoing
one more wall?

--
aem sends...

On Jan 18, 12:11*am, "rb" wrote:
Can't do it that way. * It backs up to an outside wall on one end, the other
is facing another tub in an adjacent bath.

"aemeijers" wrote in message

...



rb wrote:
How do you get tubs out of tight spots in small bathrooms?

Seems like maybe we can saw it up. *Does that work?

Looks like the tub is longer than the remainder of the space it's in.
If you are swapping tubs, I presume the bathroom is a gut job? (Seeing as
how tub goes in before bathroom is anything more than studs, to begin
with). What does tub back up to, or one end butt up to? Sometimes the
quickest and least painful solution is to yank a couple studs, and take it
out through the next room, assuming you have the space and manpower to
rotate it in mid-air to make it out through the hole. Look at it this way-
you'll be doing drywall in the bathroom anyway. How hard is redoing one
more wall?

--
aem sends...- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Sledgehammer or sawsall to get it out, but how are you going to get
the replacement in?

How do you get tubs out of tight spots in small bathrooms?

Seems like maybe we can saw it up. Does that work?

Looks like the tub is longer than the remainder of the space it's in.

wrote:
On Sun, 17 Jan 2010 21:47:23 -0800, "rb" wrote:

How do you get tubs out of tight spots in small bathrooms?

Seems like maybe we can saw it up. Does that work?

Looks like the tub is longer than the remainder of the space it's in.



Is it a cast iron tub or sheet metal. Either way you can bust it up
with a sledge hammer.

Busting up a steel tub with a sledge migh be a job. Cast iron will be easy.

Can't do it that way. It backs up to an outside wall on one end, the other
is facing another tub in an adjacent bath.



"aemeijers" wrote in message
...
rb wrote:
How do you get tubs out of tight spots in small bathrooms?

Seems like maybe we can saw it up. Does that work?

Looks like the tub is longer than the remainder of the space it's in.
If you are swapping tubs, I presume the bathroom is a gut job? (Seeing as
how tub goes in before bathroom is anything more than studs, to begin
with). What does tub back up to, or one end butt up to? Sometimes the
quickest and least painful solution is to yank a couple studs, and take it
out through the next room, assuming you have the space and manpower to
rotate it in mid-air to make it out through the hole. Look at it this way-
you'll be doing drywall in the bathroom anyway. How hard is redoing one
more wall?

--
aem sends...

If it's a cast iron tub, go to http://YouTube.com and type "cast iron tub"
in the search bar.

"rb" wrote in message
...
How do you get tubs out of tight spots in small bathrooms?

Seems like maybe we can saw it up. Does that work?

Looks like the tub is longer than the remainder of the space it's in.

On Jan 17, 9:47*pm, "rb" wrote:
How do you get tubs out of tight spots in small bathrooms?

Seems like maybe we can saw it up. *Does that work?

Looks like the tub is longer than the remainder of the space it's in.

I've removed and reinstalled a cast iron tub into the end wall of a
bathroom that's exactly as wide as the tub, and done it single
handed. If you're not going to reuse the tub then bust it up and
carry the pieces out. If you're going to reuse the tub then you lift
the tub up on one end until it's vertical, then lay it face down on a
4-wheel dolly for removal from the room. Installation is, as they
say, the reverse of this process. I used a come-along to get the tub
up to vertical and then back down to horizontal on the reinstall.

Tom Young

TomYoung wrote:
On Jan 17, 9:47 pm, "rb" wrote:
How do you get tubs out of tight spots in small bathrooms?

Seems like maybe we can saw it up. Does that work?

Looks like the tub is longer than the remainder of the space it's in.

I've removed and reinstalled a cast iron tub into the end wall of a
bathroom that's exactly as wide as the tub, and done it single
handed. If you're not going to reuse the tub then bust it up and
carry the pieces out. If you're going to reuse the tub then you lift
the tub up on one end until it's vertical, then lay it face down on a
4-wheel dolly for removal from the room. Installation is, as they
say, the reverse of this process. I used a come-along to get the tub
up to vertical and then back down to horizontal on the reinstall.

Tom Young

Note that you may have to remove some blocking or nailer strips between
the studs, especially on the apron side, for the tub to be able to tilt
up. I've never seen a bath where the tub couldn't be removed through the
door, but I have seen bathrooms where the vanity and toilet had to come
out, and the prehung door had to be removed back to the rough opening,
to do it. But even if you get it that far, unless you can get the tub up
on end like a file cabinet, you will likely have trouble making the turn
in the hallway.

--
aem sends...

Don't try to do it with a sledge hammer, use a pick.
One of the older kind with plenty of heft. Even if you
have to rent one.
I had an old (1955) tub reduced to pieces small
enough to put one in my pocket in less than an hour.

Doing it with a sledge hammer just caused the
sledge to bounce. Doing it with the pick caused
a small hole and a crack line, and I followed the
crack lines.

And I replaced it with a 5 ft shower base, with
two seats. But that's another story.

Many years can cause some sag in the floor
wood. Suggesting you put a level to it, and if
it's a bit uneven, you bring up the base with
some cement board, with fresh, wet grout
under it. And more fresh cement without
stone aggregate when you put the shower
base in. That way, the water will always
drain correctly, and when you're in it, the
floor will be LIKE A ROCK.

Hey, do it right, insulate the walls with
Styrofoam so it won't be cold in the winter,
and if there's a window, replace it with glass
block. Just some suggestions, as applicable.

On Jan 18, 10:50*am, "rb" wrote:
Replacement will be a shower.

Typical bathroom, 5ft X 8ft.
When we did ours, one annoyance was minimum
storage space for bathroom "stuff". I stripped the
"water wall" which is made of 2x6's, added some
2x2's to them, and put cabinet doors (from a flea
market) over the 7" deep space that I had created.
That let us use a pedestal sink, making the area
seem bigger.
I arranged the sink to be centered at one of the
spaces, so that three cabinet doors above it could
have mirrors (attached with Mirror Mastic) and it
served insead of a medicine cabinet. (Door on the
right needs to have its hinge on its left).

And hey, the shift in the wall would have interfered
with the commode. I put the tank up 21" and then
connected it to the commode by way of a 2" pipe
and an $11 plumbing fitting made for doing just that.
Never a need for a double flush. Not that that was
a ploblem, with my American Standard Cadet. But
I was able to use a really cheap tank that way, too.
Rather than the American Standard one. For most
"flushing jobs", as soon as the water shows up in
the commode, it's time to release the flush handle.

Gonna do your own tile work? I can tell you how to
do it better and cheaper than you had ever imagined.

On Jan 18, 12:47*am, "rb" wrote:
How do you get tubs out of tight spots in small bathrooms?

Seems like maybe we can saw it up. *Does that work?

Looks like the tub is longer than the remainder of the space it's in.

Replacement will be a shower.

Great ideas! Thanks to all who contributed. I think (hope) my tub is
some kind of plastic or acrylic. Maybe it's as easy as sawing it up. I
do have a big pick ax, in case it's iron tub.

This was what I was trying to get: the big way is to just saw 'em up to
get 'em out.

Other good ideas included, too. Thanks.


Don't try to do it with a sledge hammer, use a pick.
One of the older kind with plenty of heft. Even if you
have to rent one.
I had an old (1955) tub reduced to pieces small
enough to put one in my pocket in less than an hour.

Doing it with a sledge hammer just caused the
sledge to bounce. Doing it with the pick caused
a small hole and a crack line, and I followed the
crack lines.

And I replaced it with a 5 ft shower base, with
two seats. But that's another story.

Many years can cause some sag in the floor
wood. Suggesting you put a level to it, and if
it's a bit uneven, you bring up the base with
some cement board, with fresh, wet grout
under it. And more fresh cement without
stone aggregate when you put the shower
base in. That way, the water will always
drain correctly, and when you're in it, the
floor will be LIKE A ROCK.

Hey, do it right, insulate the walls with
Styrofoam so it won't be cold in the winter,
and if there's a window, replace it with glass
block. Just some suggestions, as applicable.

rb wrote:
Great ideas! Thanks to all who contributed. I think (hope) my
tub is some kind of plastic or acrylic. Maybe it's as easy as
sawing it up. I do have a big pick ax, in case it's iron tub.

A magnet will tell you.

Bob F wrote:
rb wrote:
Great ideas! Thanks to all who contributed. I think (hope) my
tub is some kind of plastic or acrylic. Maybe it's as easy as
sawing it up. I do have a big pick ax, in case it's iron tub.

A magnet will tell you.


As will laying your open palm (or bare butt) on it first thing in the
morning, to judge the heat transfer rate. Rapping with knuckles in a few
places usually tells as well. Not to mention the eyeball test- if it has
any sharply creased edges, it ain't iron. Still could be steel, but
those sound like a car fender can when you rap on them.

--
aem sends...

In ,
typed:
On Sun, 17 Jan 2010 21:47:23 -0800, "rb" wrote:

How do you get tubs out of tight spots in small bathrooms?

Seems like maybe we can saw it up. Does that work?

Looks like the tub is longer than the remainder of the space it's in.



Is it a cast iron tub or sheet metal. Either way you can bust it up
with a sledge hammer.
I just took a cast iron tub out that way and a "free scrap" note on
Craigs list had it gone in an hour.

And if it's fiberglass, a sawzall makes short work of it too. BEWARE, the
cast iron tubs are extremely heavy! My whirlpool had a 700 lb delivery
weight!

In ,
Bob F typed:
wrote:
On Sun, 17 Jan 2010 21:47:23 -0800, "rb" wrote:

How do you get tubs out of tight spots in small bathrooms?

Seems like maybe we can saw it up. Does that work?

Looks like the tub is longer than the remainder of the space it's
in.


Is it a cast iron tub or sheet metal. Either way you can bust it up
with a sledge hammer.

Busting up a steel tub with a sledge migh be a job. Cast iron will be
easy.

Were tubs ever made of actual steel in any recent times? Other than the old
spaghetti westerns, I don't think I've even seen one that wasn't cast or
fglas.

Twayne

In ,
rb typed:
Can't do it that way. It backs up to an outside wall on one end,
the other is facing another tub in an adjacent bath.

Before I discovered how relatively easy they break up with a sledge hammer,
I used to stand them up on end to swing them out. Be sure to have enough
help; it could go right thru the floor if it gets dropped!! And of course
injure someone.

Twayne




"aemeijers" wrote in message
...
rb wrote:
How do you get tubs out of tight spots in small bathrooms?

Seems like maybe we can saw it up. Does that work?

Looks like the tub is longer than the remainder of the space it's
in.
If you are swapping tubs, I presume the bathroom is a gut job?
(Seeing as how tub goes in before bathroom is anything more than
studs, to begin with). What does tub back up to, or one end butt up
to? Sometimes the quickest and least painful solution is to yank a
couple studs, and take it out through the next room, assuming you
have the space and manpower to rotate it in mid-air to make it out
through the hole. Look at it this way- you'll be doing drywall in
the bathroom anyway. How hard is redoing one more wall?

--
aem sends...

news.eternal-september.org wrote:
In ,
Bob F typed:
wrote:
On Sun, 17 Jan 2010 21:47:23 -0800, "rb" wrote:

How do you get tubs out of tight spots in small bathrooms?

Seems like maybe we can saw it up. Does that work?

Looks like the tub is longer than the remainder of the space it's
in.


Is it a cast iron tub or sheet metal. Either way you can bust it up
with a sledge hammer.

Busting up a steel tub with a sledge migh be a job. Cast iron will be
easy.

Were tubs ever made of actual steel in any recent times? Other than the
old spaghetti westerns, I don't think I've even seen one that wasn't
cast or fglas.

Twayne

For several years before plastic or fiberglass tubs got cheap,
stamped-steel (like a car fender) tubs were dirt-common in el-cheapo
cookie cutters and apartment complexes. I oughta know, I humped enough
of them off the truck as a kid. Looked and felt cheap, so when the
plastic tubs came out, they quickly took over the market.

--
aem sends...

In article ,
says...
In ,
Bob F typed:
wrote:
On Sun, 17 Jan 2010 21:47:23 -0800, "rb" wrote:

How do you get tubs out of tight spots in small bathrooms?

Seems like maybe we can saw it up. Does that work?

Looks like the tub is longer than the remainder of the space it's
in.


Is it a cast iron tub or sheet metal. Either way you can bust it up
with a sledge hammer.

Busting up a steel tub with a sledge migh be a job. Cast iron will be
easy.

Were tubs ever made of actual steel in any recent times? Other than the old
spaghetti westerns, I don't think I've even seen one that wasn't cast or
fglas.

They are very common. We take out several each year. Still plenty of them for
sale at the supply house near me.

--
Dennis