We learn from our mistakes. That is why I am posting this. Learn from
mine.

I recently finsihed my basement. I built walls, installed drywall,
carpet, paint, etc.

After I did all this, one of the double french doors that go into my
computer/office room now scrapes the carpet, which it didn't do
before. I figured the house settled a little so I tried adjusting the
door with shims behind the hinges. That didn't look so well and the
reveal looked terrible, so i took them out. I took them out.

After many days of sitting and pondering the situation ( my excuse for
watching football), I figured the only way to fix it was to trim the
bottom of the door. After measuring how much I needed to trim, and
moving the door from full open to full closed, I realized the the door
would only scrape for a few inches, then clear the carpet again.

So, what happened was.........when I installed the walls in the
basement, I apparently elevated the floor joist above this portion of
the room upstairs. It is too late to correct the problem and since it
is only 1/8-1/4 inch, I will trim the door bottom to fix the problem.
This will all be done as soon as I ponder the correct way to trim the
door. I figure I'll have that figured out sometime after the Super
Bowl. :-)

So, learn from my mistakes guys/gals.

Hank ~~~don't know the point spread yet

On Jan 11, 3:03*am, "Hustlin' Hank" wrote:
We learn from our mistakes. That is why I am posting this. Learn from
mine.

I recently finsihed my basement. I built walls, installed drywall,
carpet, paint, etc.

After I did all this, one of the double french doors that go into my
computer/office room now scrapes the carpet, which it didn't do
before. I figured the house settled a little so I tried adjusting the
door with shims behind the hinges. That didn't look so well and the
reveal looked terrible, so i took them out. I took them out.

After many days of sitting and pondering the situation ( my excuse for
watching football), I figured the only way to fix it was to trim the
bottom of the door. After measuring how much I needed to trim, and
moving the door from full open to full closed, I realized the the door
would only scrape for a few inches, then clear the carpet again.

So, what happened was.........when I installed the walls in the
basement, I apparently elevated the floor joist above this portion of
the room upstairs. It is too late to correct the problem and since it
is only 1/8-1/4 inch, I will trim the door bottom to fix the problem.
This will all be done as soon as I ponder the correct way to trim the
door. I figure I'll have that figured out sometime after the Super
Bowl. :-)

So, learn from my mistakes guys/gals.

Hank ~~~don't know the point spread yet

When a prehung door shows problems I usually take it loose and
reinstall it. There sees always a shim you can add or remove to get
the desired result, or a screw you can loosen, tighten or add, remove.

On Jan 11, 4:03*am, "Hustlin' Hank" wrote:
We learn from our mistakes. That is why I am posting this. Learn from
mine.

I recently finsihed my basement. I built walls, installed drywall,
carpet, paint, etc.

After I did all this, one of the double french doors that go into my
computer/office room now scrapes the carpet, which it didn't do
before. I figured the house settled a little so I tried adjusting the
door with shims behind the hinges. That didn't look so well and the
reveal looked terrible, so i took them out. I took them out.

After many days of sitting and pondering the situation ( my excuse for
watching football), I figured the only way to fix it was to trim the
bottom of the door. After measuring how much I needed to trim, and
moving the door from full open to full closed, I realized the the door
would only scrape for a few inches, then clear the carpet again.

So, what happened was.........when I installed the walls in the
basement, I apparently elevated the floor joist above this portion of
the room upstairs. It is too late to correct the problem and since it
is only 1/8-1/4 inch, I will trim the door bottom to fix the problem.
This will all be done as soon as I ponder the correct way to trim the
door. I figure I'll have that figured out sometime after the Super
Bowl. :-)

So, learn from my mistakes guys/gals.

That's one of the reasons that I like to use either metal studs for
finishing off a basement, or metal track and wood studs leaving a
small gap at the top of the stud. It prevents the partition from
becoming a bearing wall and creating such problems.

Only one way to trim that door - buy a Festool TS55. Quick, accurate,
splinter free, expensive and you get a nifty new tool.

R

On Jan 11, 9:02*am, RicodJour wrote:
On Jan 11, 4:03*am, "Hustlin' Hank" wrote:





We learn from our mistakes. That is why I am posting this. Learn from
mine.

I recently finsihed my basement. I built walls, installed drywall,
carpet, paint, etc.

After I did all this, one of the double french doors that go into my
computer/office room now scrapes the carpet, which it didn't do
before. I figured the house settled a little so I tried adjusting the
door with shims behind the hinges. That didn't look so well and the
reveal looked terrible, so i took them out. I took them out.

After many days of sitting and pondering the situation ( my excuse for
watching football), I figured the only way to fix it was to trim the
bottom of the door. After measuring how much I needed to trim, and
moving the door from full open to full closed, I realized the the door
would only scrape for a few inches, then clear the carpet again.

So, what happened was.........when I installed the walls in the
basement, I apparently elevated the floor joist above this portion of
the room upstairs. It is too late to correct the problem and since it
is only 1/8-1/4 inch, I will trim the door bottom to fix the problem.
This will all be done as soon as I ponder the correct way to trim the
door. I figure I'll have that figured out sometime after the Super
Bowl. :-)

So, learn from my mistakes guys/gals.

That's one of the reasons that I like to use either metal studs for
finishing off a basement, or metal track and wood studs leaving a
small gap at the top of the stud. *It prevents the partition from
becoming a bearing wall and creating such problems.

Only one way to trim that door - buy a Festool TS55. *Quick, accurate,
splinter free, expensive and you get a nifty new tool.

R- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

IF the OP is on a budget, a hand plane or block of wood with coarse
sandpaper will do the job a lot cheaper

Hustlin' Hank wrote the following:
We learn from our mistakes. That is why I am posting this. Learn from
mine.

I recently finsihed my basement. I built walls, installed drywall,
carpet, paint, etc.

After I did all this, one of the double french doors that go into my
computer/office room now scrapes the carpet, which it didn't do
before. I figured the house settled a little so I tried adjusting the
door with shims behind the hinges. That didn't look so well and the
reveal looked terrible, so i took them out. I took them out.

After many days of sitting and pondering the situation ( my excuse for
watching football), I figured the only way to fix it was to trim the
bottom of the door. After measuring how much I needed to trim, and
moving the door from full open to full closed, I realized the the door
would only scrape for a few inches, then clear the carpet again.

So, what happened was.........when I installed the walls in the
basement, I apparently elevated the floor joist above this portion of
the room upstairs. It is too late to correct the problem and since it
is only 1/8-1/4 inch, I will trim the door bottom to fix the problem.
This will all be done as soon as I ponder the correct way to trim the
door. I figure I'll have that figured out sometime after the Super
Bowl. :-)

So, learn from my mistakes guys/gals.

Hank ~~~don't know the point spread yet


Sometimes it is best to not build the wall framing while it is on the
floor and then raise it as one piece. You must have had to do some
pounding of the top plate to get it plumb, raising the floor above. It
built my basement walls with the top and base plate installed and then
cut each stud to fit between the two.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

French doors are very good for "anger management"...

These doors have the ability to extract every last bit of anger from any
man, thus there is no longer any anger left!




"Hustlin' Hank" wrote in message
We learn from our mistakes. That is why I am posting this. Learn from
mine.

I recently finsihed my basement. I built walls, installed drywall,
carpet, paint, etc.

After I did all this, one of the double french doors that go into my
computer/office room now scrapes the carpet, which it didn't do
before. I figured the house settled a little so I tried adjusting the
door with shims behind the hinges. That didn't look so well and the
reveal looked terrible, so i took them out. I took them out.

After many days of sitting and pondering the situation ( my excuse for
watching football), I figured the only way to fix it was to trim the
bottom of the door. After measuring how much I needed to trim, and
moving the door from full open to full closed, I realized the the door
would only scrape for a few inches, then clear the carpet again.

So, what happened was.........when I installed the walls in the
basement, I apparently elevated the floor joist above this portion of
the room upstairs. It is too late to correct the problem and since it
is only 1/8-1/4 inch, I will trim the door bottom to fix the problem.
This will all be done as soon as I ponder the correct way to trim the
door. I figure I'll have that figured out sometime after the Super
Bowl. :-)

So, learn from my mistakes guys/gals.

Hank ~~~don't know the point spread yet

On Jan 11, 11:56*am, "hr(bob) "
wrote:
On Jan 11, 9:02*am, RicodJour wrote:

Only one way to trim that door - buy a Festool TS55. *Quick, accurate,
splinter free, expensive and you get a nifty new tool.

IF the OP is on a budget, a hand plane or block of wood with coarse
sandpaper will do the job a lot cheaper

But then he wouldn't have the nifty new tool. Where's the fun in
that?

R

"willshak" wrote in message
...
Hustlin' Hank wrote the following:
We learn from our mistakes. That is why I am posting this. Learn from
mine.

I recently finsihed my basement. I built walls, installed drywall,
carpet, paint, etc.

After I did all this, one of the double french doors that go into my
computer/office room now scrapes the carpet, which it didn't do
before. I figured the house settled a little so I tried adjusting the
door with shims behind the hinges. That didn't look so well and the
reveal looked terrible, so i took them out. I took them out.

After many days of sitting and pondering the situation ( my excuse for
watching football), I figured the only way to fix it was to trim the
bottom of the door. After measuring how much I needed to trim, and
moving the door from full open to full closed, I realized the the door
would only scrape for a few inches, then clear the carpet again.

So, what happened was.........when I installed the walls in the
basement, I apparently elevated the floor joist above this portion of
the room upstairs. It is too late to correct the problem and since it
is only 1/8-1/4 inch, I will trim the door bottom to fix the problem.
This will all be done as soon as I ponder the correct way to trim the
door. I figure I'll have that figured out sometime after the Super
Bowl. :-)

So, learn from my mistakes guys/gals.

Hank ~~~don't know the point spread yet


Sometimes it is best to not build the wall framing while it is on the
floor and then raise it as one piece. You must have had to do some
pounding of the top plate to get it plumb, raising the floor above. It
built my basement walls with the top and base plate installed and then cut
each stud to fit between the two.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @



It's OK to build it on the floor if you think a bit before you have at
it...In my basement I measured from the floor to ALL the joists above that
the wall was gonna hit...Took the SMALLEST measurement , subtracted an
eighth of an inch from that ..Subtract the plates and you have your stud
size...Use shingles , scrap plywood or OSB to shim where needed when you
stand the wall up...Piece of cake....Steele studs work REALLY good as well
but tend to be a bit flimsy if you don't use 5/8 rock...

"Hustlin' Hank" wrote in message
...


I will trim the door bottom to fix the problem.
This will all be done as soon as I ponder the correct way to trim the
door.

First decide how much you want to trim. Once you have that figured out
scribe a line with a utility knife and a straight edge. Do this all the way
around the bottom of the door. This will keep the door from splintering off
chips.

Now clamp on a fence to the door and cut the door with a skill saw. While
the door is off, it is a good time to apply a coat of primer to the top and
bottom of the door. This prevents the door from sucking moisture into the
end grain which could be a problem in a damp basement.

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.

benick wrote the following:
"willshak" wrote in message
...
Hustlin' Hank wrote the following:
We learn from our mistakes. That is why I am posting this. Learn from
mine.

I recently finsihed my basement. I built walls, installed drywall,
carpet, paint, etc.

After I did all this, one of the double french doors that go into my
computer/office room now scrapes the carpet, which it didn't do
before. I figured the house settled a little so I tried adjusting the
door with shims behind the hinges. That didn't look so well and the
reveal looked terrible, so i took them out. I took them out.

After many days of sitting and pondering the situation ( my excuse for
watching football), I figured the only way to fix it was to trim the
bottom of the door. After measuring how much I needed to trim, and
moving the door from full open to full closed, I realized the the door
would only scrape for a few inches, then clear the carpet again.

So, what happened was.........when I installed the walls in the
basement, I apparently elevated the floor joist above this portion of
the room upstairs. It is too late to correct the problem and since it
is only 1/8-1/4 inch, I will trim the door bottom to fix the problem.
This will all be done as soon as I ponder the correct way to trim the
door. I figure I'll have that figured out sometime after the Super
Bowl. :-)

So, learn from my mistakes guys/gals.

Hank ~~~don't know the point spread yet


Sometimes it is best to not build the wall framing while it is on the
floor and then raise it as one piece. You must have had to do some
pounding of the top plate to get it plumb, raising the floor above.
It built my basement walls with the top and base plate installed and
then cut each stud to fit between the two.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @



It's OK to build it on the floor if you think a bit before you have at
it...In my basement I measured from the floor to ALL the joists above
that the wall was gonna hit...Took the SMALLEST measurement ,
subtracted an eighth of an inch from that ..Subtract the plates and
you have your stud size...Use shingles , scrap plywood or OSB to shim
where needed when you stand the wall up...Piece of cake....Steele
studs work REALLY good as well but tend to be a bit flimsy if you
don't use 5/8 rock...

I worked for a GC in my regular job's off time, with steel framing on
one project (not at my house). I didn't like it. Besides the apparent
flimsiness of the framing, there was the added fasteners and special
equipment needed (my GC had them). You just don't use a hammer and
nails, and sheetrock screws, to finish a wall. You need self tapping
metal screws, insulators on each stud for electrical wiring, so it
doesn't chafe passing though the stud holes, and other things that I
have chosen to forget. Besides, in a home, it just seems so cold.
YMMV.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

On Jan 11, 2:37*pm, willshak wrote:

I worked for a GC in my regular job's off time, with steel framing on
one project (not at my house). I didn't like it. Besides the apparent
flimsiness of the framing, there was the added fasteners and special
equipment needed (my GC had them). You just don't use a hammer and
nails, and sheetrock screws, to finish a wall. You need self tapping
metal screws, insulators on each stud for electrical wiring, so it
doesn't chafe passing though the stud holes, and other things that I
have chosen to forget. Besides, in a home, it just seems so cold.
YMMV.

I agree with you. That's why I've moved to a hybrid system with metal
track and wood studs. The metal track is the main reason that metal
studs go up so fast. Gang cut a few wood studs at a time, leaving a
bit of space, and the metal track grabs on to the stud so you can
position it where needed. No special stuff required other than a pair
of tin snips.

R

RicodJour wrote the following:
On Jan 11, 2:37 pm, willshak wrote:

I worked for a GC in my regular job's off time, with steel framing on
one project (not at my house). I didn't like it. Besides the apparent
flimsiness of the framing, there was the added fasteners and special
equipment needed (my GC had them). You just don't use a hammer and
nails, and sheetrock screws, to finish a wall. You need self tapping
metal screws, insulators on each stud for electrical wiring, so it
doesn't chafe passing though the stud holes, and other things that I
have chosen to forget. Besides, in a home, it just seems so cold.
YMMV.


I agree with you. That's why I've moved to a hybrid system with metal
track and wood studs. The metal track is the main reason that metal
studs go up so fast. Gang cut a few wood studs at a time, leaving a
bit of space, and the metal track grabs on to the stud so you can
position it where needed. No special stuff required other than a pair
of tin snips.

R


I'll go for that approach.

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

"willshak" wrote in message
...
Hustlin' Hank wrote the following:
We learn from our mistakes. That is why I am posting this. Learn from
mine.

I recently finsihed my basement. I built walls, installed drywall,
carpet, paint, etc.

After I did all this, one of the double french doors that go into my
computer/office room now scrapes the carpet, which it didn't do
before. I figured the house settled a little so I tried adjusting the
door with shims behind the hinges. That didn't look so well and the
reveal looked terrible, so i took them out. I took them out.

After many days of sitting and pondering the situation ( my excuse for
watching football), I figured the only way to fix it was to trim the
bottom of the door. After measuring how much I needed to trim, and
moving the door from full open to full closed, I realized the the door
would only scrape for a few inches, then clear the carpet again.

So, what happened was.........when I installed the walls in the
basement, I apparently elevated the floor joist above this portion of
the room upstairs. It is too late to correct the problem and since it
is only 1/8-1/4 inch, I will trim the door bottom to fix the problem.
This will all be done as soon as I ponder the correct way to trim the
door. I figure I'll have that figured out sometime after the Super
Bowl. :-)

So, learn from my mistakes guys/gals.

Hank ~~~don't know the point spread yet


Sometimes it is best to not build the wall framing while it is on the
floor and then raise it as one piece. You must have had to do some
pounding of the top plate to get it plumb, raising the floor above. It
built my basement walls with the top and base plate installed and then cut
each stud to fit between the two.

--
Some pounding?! I can't imaging what it's done to the rest of the wall if
it was enough to throw a door on the second level off by 1/8 to a 1/4 of an
inch. How many cracks are there in the drywall? Not to mention it sort of
makes the new wall in the basement somewhat of a 'load bearing' wall, so
without a proper footing under it the OP is likely to see some cracks
develop in his basement floor.