I have a 6000 sq ft house
The main (5 burner) furnace is a York P2MPD14N08001C
which probably heats up half of the house.
The Pacard Bell blower fan is wired to the black lead (max speed).
It is about 10 F outside and about 62 inside the downstairs of the
house. The upstairs is nice and warm, but has its own independent
furnace.
The furnace seems to be working, but maybe inadequate for the size of
the house.
I have been thinking about installing a new furnace.
Are there any inexpensive ways that I can heat up the house without
replacing the furnace ?
I have two electric heaters running during this unseasonable weather,
which helps, but I was thinking of other ways.
The one idea that I have been considering is changing the blower
fan.
If I were to install a blower fan with bigger blades,
would that help move more heat from the furnace to the rest of the
house?
The blower motor is powered by 110V 50Hz. It is rated for 110-220 AC
operation (European is 220 VAC 50Hz).
If I fed it 220 VAC, would that cause problems?
I still have to investigate if the control boards operate at this
rating.

On Jan 10, 6:34�pm, Deodiaus wrote:
I have a 6000 sq ft house
The main (5 burner) furnace is a York P2MPD14N08001C
which probably heats up half of the house.
The Pacard Bell blower fan is wired to the black lead (max speed).
It is about 10 F outside and about 62 inside the downstairs of the
house. The upstairs is nice and warm, but has its own independent
furnace.
The furnace seems to be working, but maybe inadequate for the size of
the house.
I have been thinking about installing a new furnace.
Are there any inexpensive ways that I can heat up the house without
replacing the furnace ?
I have two electric heaters running during this unseasonable weather,
which helps, but I was thinking of other ways.
The one idea that I have been considering is changing the blower
fan.
If I were to install a blower fan with bigger blades,
would that help move more heat from the furnace to the rest of the
house?
The blower motor is powered by 110V 50Hz. �It is rated for 110-220 AC
operation (European is 220 VAC 50Hz).
If I fed it 220 VAC, would that cause problems?
I still have to investigate if the control boards operate at this
rating.

heat into home is tied to BTU output of furnace

How about a direct vent wall furnace of gas logs? assuming your
existing furmnace is alreay a 90+

Whens the last time your furnaces were serviced? if this was never a
problem before your furnace may need a tune up.

The furnace and house was last inspected about 2 years ago, when I
bought it.
It seems as if the unit fires up, heats up, and shuts off for a little
while (the exhaust vent cools down to a confortable touch).
It then starts back up again ok. Is there a way to change the setting
for how long this delay should be?
The blower delay time is set to about 120 sec, the medium setting.
I swapped the source1 control board for a
Johnson Control pt #031-01140 model# G951ADB-1402
from another unit, but the same problem still exists.
BTW, I also changed the filters.

Deodiaus wrote:
The furnace and house was last inspected about 2 years ago, when I
bought it.
It seems as if the unit fires up, heats up, and shuts off for a little
while (the exhaust vent cools down to a confortable touch).
It then starts back up again ok. Is there a way to change the setting
for how long this delay should be?

It is not time controlled, it is temperature controlled. Yes, it can be
changed but I don't know anything about your unit or what the setting should
be.


The blower delay time is set to about 120 sec, the medium setting.
I swapped the source1 control board for a
Johnson Control pt #031-01140 model# G951ADB-1402
from another unit, but the same problem still exists.

The problem may be limit switches or sensors, not the board.

BTW, I also changed the filters.

Good first step.

Did the unit work OK in the past? Is the unit design what the present cold
temperatures are? May pay you to get a pro check it out.

On Sun, 10 Jan 2010 15:34:53 -0800 (PST), Deodiaus
wrote:

I have a 6000 sq ft house
The main (5 burner) furnace is a York P2MPD14N08001C
which probably heats up half of the house.
The Pacard Bell blower fan is wired to the black lead (max speed).
It is about 10 F outside and about 62 inside the downstairs of the
house. The upstairs is nice and warm, but has its own independent
furnace.
The furnace seems to be working, but maybe inadequate for the size of
the house.
I have been thinking about installing a new furnace.
Are there any inexpensive ways that I can heat up the house without
replacing the furnace ?
I have two electric heaters running during this unseasonable weather,

I can't tell if you want to get through the next 2 to 5 days or you
want something for weeks on end.

You also don't say where you live or what makes the weather
unseasonable. It's winter! Why shouldn't be cold?

I've had furnace problems myself. Ran out of oil once or more. Had a
problem with the ignition reset twice.

For many parts of the country, and many parts of some other parts,
whereever it's not very humid already, for short periods, a few days,
the secibd quickest way to feel warmer is to boil water on the stove.
Put on one small pot that will come to a boil quickly, and a big pot
that can boil for hours or until you feel fine. (at 62. 62 is cold in
the house, but outside I'm not cold until it's below 50. Go figure.)

Try not to run the flame after the water boils out. One pot turned
black when I did this, although I think I cleaned it up.

The quickest way to feel warmer is to stop the bathtub and run the
shower at full hot. The steam will fill the room and spread to the
rest of the house. BE DARN Sure you don't let the water run over the
tub, but I like to plug the tub because the water is still hot. I
don't drain the water out until it's emitted all its heat to the
house.

I've never had a problem with water condensing anywhere it's not meant
to, except maybe cold windows, and it was no real problem there
either.

Higher humidity is like being 4 to 6 degrees warmer, maybe more.

which helps, but I was thinking of other ways.
The one idea that I have been considering is changing the blower
fan.
If I were to install a blower fan with bigger blades,
would that help move more heat from the furnace to the rest of the
house?
The blower motor is powered by 110V 50Hz. It is rated for 110-220 AC
operation (European is 220 VAC 50Hz).
If I fed it 220 VAC, would that cause problems?
I still have to investigate if the control boards operate at this
rating.

P&M

"mm" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 10 Jan 2010 15:34:53 -0800 (PST), Deodiaus
wrote:

I have a 6000 sq ft house
The main (5 burner) furnace is a York P2MPD14N08001C
which probably heats up half of the house.
The Pacard Bell blower fan is wired to the black lead (max speed).
It is about 10 F outside and about 62 inside the downstairs of the
house. The upstairs is nice and warm, but has its own independent
furnace.
The furnace seems to be working, but maybe inadequate for the size of
the house.
I have been thinking about installing a new furnace.
Are there any inexpensive ways that I can heat up the house without
replacing the furnace ?
I have two electric heaters running during this unseasonable weather,

I can't tell if you want to get through the next 2 to 5 days or you
want something for weeks on end.

You also don't say where you live or what makes the weather
unseasonable. It's winter! Why shouldn't be cold?

I've had furnace problems myself. Ran out of oil once or more. Had a
problem with the ignition reset twice.

For many parts of the country, and many parts of some other parts,
whereever it's not very humid already, for short periods, a few days,
the secibd quickest way to feel warmer is to boil water on the stove.
Put on one small pot that will come to a boil quickly, and a big pot
that can boil for hours or until you feel fine. (at 62. 62 is cold in
the house, but outside I'm not cold until it's below 50. Go figure.)

Try not to run the flame after the water boils out. One pot turned
black when I did this, although I think I cleaned it up.

The quickest way to feel warmer is to stop the bathtub and run the
shower at full hot. The steam will fill the room and spread to the
rest of the house. BE DARN Sure you don't let the water run over the
tub, but I like to plug the tub because the water is still hot. I
don't drain the water out until it's emitted all its heat to the
house.

I've never had a problem with water condensing anywhere it's not meant
to, except maybe cold windows, and it was no real problem there
either.

Higher humidity is like being 4 to 6 degrees warmer, maybe more.

which helps, but I was thinking of other ways.
The one idea that I have been considering is changing the blower
fan.
If I were to install a blower fan with bigger blades,
would that help move more heat from the furnace to the rest of the
house?
The blower motor is powered by 110V 50Hz. It is rated for 110-220 AC
operation (European is 220 VAC 50Hz).
If I fed it 220 VAC, would that cause problems?
I still have to investigate if the control boards operate at this
rating.

P&M



I want some of whatever you're smoking...Come on , stop bogarding it and
pass it over here...LOL....

Buy a couple of Electric heaters...The cold snap is supposed to ease up in a
few days and things will return to "normal".....

On Sun, 10 Jan 2010 19:30:15 -0500, "benick"
wrote:

"mm" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 10 Jan 2010 15:34:53 -0800 (PST), Deodiaus
wrote:

I have a 6000 sq ft house
The main (5 burner) furnace is a York P2MPD14N08001C
which probably heats up half of the house.
The Pacard Bell blower fan is wired to the black lead (max speed).
It is about 10 F outside and about 62 inside the downstairs of the
house. The upstairs is nice and warm, but has its own independent
furnace.
The furnace seems to be working, but maybe inadequate for the size of
the house.
I have been thinking about installing a new furnace.
Are there any inexpensive ways that I can heat up the house without
replacing the furnace ?
I have two electric heaters running during this unseasonable weather,

I can't tell if you want to get through the next 2 to 5 days or you
want something for weeks on end.

You also don't say where you live or what makes the weather
unseasonable. It's winter! Why shouldn't be cold?

I've had furnace problems myself. Ran out of oil once or more. Had a
problem with the ignition reset twice.

For many parts of the country, and many parts of some other parts,
whereever it's not very humid already, for short periods, a few days,
the secibd quickest way to feel warmer is to boil water on the stove.
Put on one small pot that will come to a boil quickly, and a big pot
that can boil for hours or until you feel fine. (at 62. 62 is cold in
the house, but outside I'm not cold until it's below 50. Go figure.)

Try not to run the flame after the water boils out. One pot turned
black when I did this, although I think I cleaned it up.

The quickest way to feel warmer is to stop the bathtub and run the
shower at full hot. The steam will fill the room and spread to the
rest of the house. BE DARN Sure you don't let the water run over the
tub, but I like to plug the tub because the water is still hot. I
don't drain the water out until it's emitted all its heat to the
house.

I've never had a problem with water condensing anywhere it's not meant
to, except maybe cold windows, and it was no real problem there
either.

Higher humidity is like being 4 to 6 degrees warmer, maybe more.

which helps, but I was thinking of other ways.
The one idea that I have been considering is changing the blower
fan.
If I were to install a blower fan with bigger blades,
would that help move more heat from the furnace to the rest of the
house?
The blower motor is powered by 110V 50Hz. It is rated for 110-220 AC
operation (European is 220 VAC 50Hz).
If I fed it 220 VAC, would that cause problems?
I still have to investigate if the control boards operate at this
rating.

P&M



I want some of whatever you're smoking...Come on , stop bogarding it and
pass it over here...LOL....

You're talking about steam and boiling water? Don't knock it till
you've tried.

Buy a couple of Electric heaters...The cold snap is supposed to ease up in a
few days and things will return to "normal".....

Does the furnace cut off before the thermostat setting is reached? If
so, there is something wrong with the furnace. Weren't you the one who
posted a few weeks ago about the limit switch cutting off, and later
found a problem with the blower? Thinking more though, if you have a
mechanical thermostat as opposed to digital, the heat anticipator could
be set wrong and cutting the furnace off too soon. Larry

On Jan 10, 6:01*pm, Deodiaus wrote:
The furnace and house was last inspected about 2 years ago, when I
bought it.
It seems as if the unit fires up, heats up, and shuts off for a little
while (the exhaust vent cools down to a confortable touch).
It then starts back up again ok. *Is there a way to change the setting
for how long this delay should be?
The blower delay time is set to about 120 sec, the medium setting.
I swapped the source1 control board *for a
Johnson Control pt #031-01140 model# G951ADB-1402
from another unit, but the same problem still exists.
BTW, I also changed the filters.

It should run continously until it reaches the thermostat set point,
or it needs repair. Run your stove and oven.

ransley wrote:
On Jan 10, 6:01 pm, wrote:
The furnace and house was last inspected about 2 years ago, when I
bought it.
It seems as if the unit fires up, heats up, and shuts off for a little
while (the exhaust vent cools down to a confortable touch).
It then starts back up again ok. Is there a way to change the setting
for how long this delay should be?
The blower delay time is set to about 120 sec, the medium setting.
I swapped the source1 control board for a
Johnson Control pt #031-01140 model# G951ADB-1402
from another unit, but the same problem still exists.
BTW, I also changed the filters.

It should run continously until it reaches the thermostat set point,
or it needs repair. Run your stove and oven.
Hi,
But if the furnace is under-sized, it'll never reach the set temp.

Deodiaus wrote:
The furnace and house was last inspected about 2 years ago, when I
bought it.
It seems as if the unit fires up, heats up, and shuts off for a little
while (the exhaust vent cools down to a confortable touch).
It then starts back up again ok. Is there a way to change the setting
for how long this delay should be?
The blower delay time is set to about 120 sec, the medium setting.
I swapped the source1 control board for a
Johnson Control pt #031-01140 model# G951ADB-1402
from another unit, but the same problem still exists.
BTW, I also changed the filters.
Hi,
Blower better be running on medium speed(not high).
Hot air is easy to push than cold air. High speed is for cooling.

mm wrote:
On Sun, 10 Jan 2010 15:34:53 -0800 (PST), Deodiaus
wrote:

I have a 6000 sq ft house
The main (5 burner) furnace is a York P2MPD14N08001C
which probably heats up half of the house.
The Pacard Bell blower fan is wired to the black lead (max speed).
It is about 10 F outside and about 62 inside the downstairs of the
house. The upstairs is nice and warm, but has its own independent
furnace.
The furnace seems to be working, but maybe inadequate for the size of
the house.
I have been thinking about installing a new furnace.
Are there any inexpensive ways that I can heat up the house without
replacing the furnace ?
I have two electric heaters running during this unseasonable weather,

I can't tell if you want to get through the next 2 to 5 days or you
want something for weeks on end.

You also don't say where you live or what makes the weather
unseasonable. It's winter! Why shouldn't be cold?

I've had furnace problems myself. Ran out of oil once or more. Had a
problem with the ignition reset twice.

For many parts of the country, and many parts of some other parts,
whereever it's not very humid already, for short periods, a few days,
the secibd quickest way to feel warmer is to boil water on the stove.
Put on one small pot that will come to a boil quickly, and a big pot
that can boil for hours or until you feel fine. (at 62. 62 is cold in
the house, but outside I'm not cold until it's below 50. Go figure.)

Try not to run the flame after the water boils out. One pot turned
black when I did this, although I think I cleaned it up.

The quickest way to feel warmer is to stop the bathtub and run the
shower at full hot. The steam will fill the room and spread to the
rest of the house. BE DARN Sure you don't let the water run over the
tub, but I like to plug the tub because the water is still hot. I
don't drain the water out until it's emitted all its heat to the
house.

I've never had a problem with water condensing anywhere it's not meant
to, except maybe cold windows, and it was no real problem there
either.

Higher humidity is like being 4 to 6 degrees warmer, maybe more.

which helps, but I was thinking of other ways.
The one idea that I have been considering is changing the blower
fan.
If I were to install a blower fan with bigger blades,
would that help move more heat from the furnace to the rest of the
house?
The blower motor is powered by 110V 50Hz. It is rated for 110-220 AC
operation (European is 220 VAC 50Hz).
If I fed it 220 VAC, would that cause problems?
I still have to investigate if the control boards operate at this
rating.

P&M
Hmmm,
Sounds like you don't have a humidifier where you need one in winter.

Hi,
Blower better be running on medium speed(not high).
Hot air is easy to push than cold air. High speed is for cooling.

How much of a difference (in percentage) is it to push hot air rather
than cold?
BTW, what anyone know the difference in speeds between the 3 settings?
I will try this, as it is just a 5 min matter of changing settings.

The blower motor is powered by 110V 60Hz. *It is rated for 110-220 AC
operation (European is 220 VAC 50Hz).
If I fed it 220 VAC, would that cause problems?
I still have to investigate if the control boards operate at this
rating.

Someone just told me that even if I were to run it off a 240 line,
the internal impedance of the motor would be twice as high,
so doing this does not run the fan faster.

BTW, does anyone know if the there are squirel cage motors with bigger
blades?
If not, would installing a small fan inside make a difference?

On Jan 10, 7:39*pm, Tony Hwang wrote:
ransley wrote:
On Jan 10, 6:01 pm, *wrote:
The furnace and house was last inspected about 2 years ago, when I
bought it.
It seems as if the unit fires up, heats up, and shuts off for a little
while (the exhaust vent cools down to a confortable touch).
It then starts back up again ok. *Is there a way to change the setting
for how long this delay should be?
The blower delay time is set to about 120 sec, the medium setting.
I swapped the source1 control board *for a
Johnson Control pt #031-01140 model# G951ADB-1402
from another unit, but the same problem still exists.
BTW, I also changed the filters.

It should run continously until it reaches the thermostat set point,
or it needs repair. Run your stove and oven.

Hi,
But if the furnace is under-sized, it'll never reach the set temp.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

True, but I thought he said it cycles on off

On Jan 10, 7:51*pm, Deodiaus wrote:
Hi,
Blower better be running on medium speed(not high).
Hot air is easy to push than cold air. High speed is for cooling.

How much of a difference (in percentage) is it to push hot air rather
than cold?
BTW, what anyone know the difference in speeds between the 3 settings?
I will try this, as it is just a 5 min matter of changing settings.

The blower is set where its at for a reason, just like its set at high
on AC mode, you may feel less comfortable with a higher blower speed
from breeze and just burn more electricity. From what little I know
lower is better but the temp of the exchanger should not go above the
design limit.

On Sun, 10 Jan 2010 18:02:47 -0800 (PST), Deodiaus
wrote:


The blower motor is powered by 110V 60Hz. *It is rated for 110-220 AC
operation (European is 220 VAC 50Hz).
If I fed it 220 VAC, would that cause problems?
I still have to investigate if the control boards operate at this
rating.

Someone just told me that even if I were to run it off a 240 line,
the internal impedance of the motor would be twice as high,
so doing this does not run the fan faster.

That doesn't right to me. The resistance of the windings won't change
and the inductive impedance, also in ohms is dependant on the
frequency of the current, which isn't going to change.

That is not to say I think running the fan faster will help much or
help at all. There is only so much heat made by the fire, and if you
blow the air over the hot heat exchanger faster, it seems to me the
air won't absorb as much heat as if it passed by more slowly.

Let's imagine the opposite. If the air absorbed just as much heat per
volume of air, and the fan ran faster, so there was more air going by,
the heat exchanger would lose so much heat it wouldn't be as hot as it
once was. So, it wouldn't have enough heat to warm the air.

I'll admit that when I turn the fan higher in my car, it does make me
warm up more quickly, but I think the difference is that my car has
adquate heat and for some reason, your furnace doesn't. It's not
running enough it seems.

BTW, you said you are running it on 110 volts 50 cycle. Where are you
that you have 50 cycle current?

If you call someone out and say you are considering installing a new
furnace, he will undoubtedly be wililng to have his company sell you
one. But I would not tell him that. I'd ask what is wrong with the
furnadce now, and how much it is to fix it. YOu're all ove rthe map
here with the fan, the size of the furnace, the limit switches. I
don't think this thread is anywhere near figuring out whawt your
problem is. You don't know the BTU rating of your furnace for
example. You didnt' even say if it was oil or gas! Or if you have a
good flame.

If it's oil, a lot of people have them cleaned them every year. Once
in two years is certainly not wasteful. Ask someone to come out and
look at your furnace while he's cleaning it.

BTW, does anyone know if the there are squirel cage motors with bigger
blades?
If not, would installing a small fan inside make a difference?

Inside where? No.

On Sun, 10 Jan 2010 19:51:50 -0500, mm
wrote:

On Sun, 10 Jan 2010 19:30:15 -0500, "benick"
wrote:

"mm" wrote in message
. ..
On Sun, 10 Jan 2010 15:34:53 -0800 (PST), Deodiaus
wrote:

I have a 6000 sq ft house
The main (5 burner) furnace is a York P2MPD14N08001C
which probably heats up half of the house.
The Pacard Bell blower fan is wired to the black lead (max speed).
It is about 10 F outside and about 62 inside the downstairs of the
house. The upstairs is nice and warm, but has its own independent
furnace.
The furnace seems to be working, but maybe inadequate for the size of
the house.
I have been thinking about installing a new furnace.
Are there any inexpensive ways that I can heat up the house without
replacing the furnace ?
I have two electric heaters running during this unseasonable weather,

I can't tell if you want to get through the next 2 to 5 days or you
want something for weeks on end.

You also don't say where you live or what makes the weather
unseasonable. It's winter! Why shouldn't be cold?

I've had furnace problems myself. Ran out of oil once or more. Had a
problem with the ignition reset twice.

For many parts of the country, and many parts of some other parts,
whereever it's not very humid already, for short periods, a few days,
the secibd quickest way to feel warmer is to boil water on the stove.
Put on one small pot that will come to a boil quickly, and a big pot
that can boil for hours or until you feel fine. (at 62. 62 is cold in
the house, but outside I'm not cold until it's below 50. Go figure.)

Try not to run the flame after the water boils out. One pot turned
black when I did this, although I think I cleaned it up.

The quickest way to feel warmer is to stop the bathtub and run the
shower at full hot. The steam will fill the room and spread to the
rest of the house. BE DARN Sure you don't let the water run over the
tub, but I like to plug the tub because the water is still hot. I
don't drain the water out until it's emitted all its heat to the
house.

I've never had a problem with water condensing anywhere it's not meant
to, except maybe cold windows, and it was no real problem there
either.

Higher humidity is like being 4 to 6 degrees warmer, maybe more.

which helps, but I was thinking of other ways.
The one idea that I have been considering is changing the blower
fan.
If I were to install a blower fan with bigger blades,
would that help move more heat from the furnace to the rest of the
house?
The blower motor is powered by 110V 50Hz. It is rated for 110-220 AC
operation (European is 220 VAC 50Hz).
If I fed it 220 VAC, would that cause problems?
I still have to investigate if the control boards operate at this
rating.

P&M



I want some of whatever you're smoking...Come on , stop bogarding it and
pass it over here...LOL....

You're talking about steam and boiling water? Don't knock it till
you've tried.

Buy a couple of Electric heaters...The cold snap is supposed to ease up in a
few days and things will return to "normal".....

BTW, I missed it at first, but he said he already has two electric
heaters. Plus they won't work as well as a hot shower or boiling
water. They make so much heat, at high cost, and they have to run
all the time or heat disburses till you can't tell the difference.
Humidity will fill the house in an hour or two and then you can turn
off the stove and it will still be humid for 5, 20, 20 hours. Houses
are typically dry in the winter. To go from 10 to 30 percent up to 50
to 75 percent makes an enormous differnence.

On Sun, 10 Jan 2010 18:44:59 -0700, Tony Hwang
wrote:

Hmmm,
Sounds like you don't have a humidifier where you need one in winter.

I have one in the furnace, but that doesn't work when the furnace
isn't working. His furnace runs some, but we don't know if it has a
humidifier or not.

"Deodiaus" wrote in message
...

The blower motor is powered by 110V 60Hz. It is rated for 110-220 AC
operation (European is 220 VAC 50Hz).
If I fed it 220 VAC, would that cause problems?
I still have to investigate if the control boards operate at this
rating.

Someone just told me that even if I were to run it off a 240 line,
the internal impedance of the motor would be twice as high,
so doing this does not run the fan faster.

Many motors have the speed determined by the frequency they operate on and
the number of poles in the motor. Read poles as just the way the windings
of the motor are if you don't under stand that part. . The motor will run
at the ratio of 50 hz to 60 hz if you go from one frequency to the other.
Faster on the 60 hz frequency lines. You probably have to change the
internal connections of the motor to make it run off the 240 volt line.

Deodiaus wrote:
I have a 6000 sq ft house
The main (5 burner) furnace is a York P2MPD14N08001C
which probably heats up half of the house.
The Pacard Bell blower fan is wired to the black lead (max speed).
It is about 10 F outside and about 62 inside the downstairs of the
house. The upstairs is nice and warm, but has its own independent
furnace.
The furnace seems to be working, but maybe inadequate for the size of
the house.
I have been thinking about installing a new furnace.
Are there any inexpensive ways that I can heat up the house without
replacing the furnace ?
I have two electric heaters running during this unseasonable weather,
which helps, but I was thinking of other ways.
The one idea that I have been considering is changing the blower
fan.
If I were to install a blower fan with bigger blades,
would that help move more heat from the furnace to the rest of the
house?
The blower motor is powered by 110V 50Hz. It is rated for 110-220 AC
operation (European is 220 VAC 50Hz).
If I fed it 220 VAC, would that cause problems?
I still have to investigate if the control boards operate at this
rating.

I'm used to USA spec equipment but using a higher voltage wouldn't
change the speed of the blower motor unless it has a winding for it.
Anyway, the controls are probably designed to only feed 110 volts to
the motor. As far as more air flow, forced air heating systems are
designed for a specific BTU in relation to air flow. If the air flow
is increased beyond design limits, efficiency will be lost because the
air does not have time to heat up because it is traveling too fast
through the heat exchanger. Of course if the air is slowed down, the
combustion chamber will overheat. I've seen this happen when someone
closes too many registers. Your furnace may be malfunctioning because
the burners are lighting and going out over and over again. I would
watch the furnace go through a complete cycle to see if it's operating
properly. I couldn't find that model number, did you post the correct
model number? Perhaps the label will list the BTU and air flow specs
for the furnace and you could post it.

TDD

Deodiaus wrote:
I have a 6000 sq ft house
The main (5 burner) furnace is a York P2MPD14N08001C
which probably heats up half of the house.
The Pacard Bell blower fan is wired to the black lead (max speed).
It is about 10 F outside and about 62 inside the downstairs of the
house. The upstairs is nice and warm, but has its own independent
furnace.
The furnace seems to be working, but maybe inadequate for the size of
the house.
I have been thinking about installing a new furnace.
Are there any inexpensive ways that I can heat up the house without
replacing the furnace ?
I have two electric heaters running during this unseasonable weather,
which helps, but I was thinking of other ways.
The one idea that I have been considering is changing the blower
fan.
If I were to install a blower fan with bigger blades,
would that help move more heat from the furnace to the rest of the
house?
The blower motor is powered by 110V 50Hz. It is rated for 110-220 AC
operation (European is 220 VAC 50Hz).
If I fed it 220 VAC, would that cause problems?
I still have to investigate if the control boards operate at this
rating.

How good is the wall insulation? If the house is old, it may not have any. If
so, insulating it would make a huge difference.

Deodiaus wrote:
The blower motor is powered by 110V 60Hz. It is rated for 110-220 AC
operation (European is 220 VAC 50Hz).
If I fed it 220 VAC, would that cause problems?
I still have to investigate if the control boards operate at this
rating.
Someone just told me that even if I were to run it off a 240 line,
the internal impedance of the motor would be twice as high,
so doing this does not run the fan faster.

BTW, does anyone know if the there are squirel cage motors with bigger
blades?
If not, would installing a small fan inside make a difference?

You need to stay with the design air flow of your furnace. The wire
for the blower in heat mode should be shown on the wiring diagram
which is usually pasted to the inside of one of the removable panels.
It will show where to plug in the wire on the control board.

TDD

On Jan 10, 9:49*pm, The Daring Dufas
wrote:
Deodiaus wrote:
The blower motor is powered by 110V 60Hz. *It is rated for 110-220 AC
operation (European is 220 VAC 50Hz).
If I fed it 220 VAC, would that cause problems?
I still have to investigate if the control boards operate at this
rating.
Someone just told me that even if I were to run it off a 240 line,
the internal impedance of the motor would be twice as high,
so doing this does not run the fan faster.

BTW, does anyone know if the there are squirel cage motors with bigger
blades?
If not, would installing a small fan inside make a difference?

You need to stay with the design air flow of your furnace. The wire
for the blower in heat mode should be shown on the wiring diagram
which is usually pasted to the inside of one of the removable panels.
It will show where to plug in the wire on the control board.

TDD

where is the thermostat, is there a separate one for each level?

hr(bob) wrote:
On Jan 10, 9:49 pm, The Daring Dufas
wrote:
Deodiaus wrote:
The blower motor is powered by 110V 60Hz. It is rated for 110-220 AC
operation (European is 220 VAC 50Hz).
If I fed it 220 VAC, would that cause problems?
I still have to investigate if the control boards operate at this
rating.
Someone just told me that even if I were to run it off a 240 line,
the internal impedance of the motor would be twice as high,
so doing this does not run the fan faster.
BTW, does anyone know if the there are squirel cage motors with bigger
blades?
If not, would installing a small fan inside make a difference?
You need to stay with the design air flow of your furnace. The wire
for the blower in heat mode should be shown on the wiring diagram
which is usually pasted to the inside of one of the removable panels.
It will show where to plug in the wire on the control board.

TDD

where is the thermostat, is there a separate one for each level?

Deodiaus is the original poster, ask him. *snicker*

TDD

"mm" wrote in message
...
I want some of whatever you're smoking...Come on , stop bogarding it and
pass it over here...LOL....

You're talking about steam and boiling water? Don't knock it till
you've tried.

I find exactly the opposite. I am always MUCH hotter in humid conditions
than in dry even when the temperature is exactly the same. The same holds
true in the winter. On a dry day 15 degrees isn't so bad but on a wet/humid
day it's torture. Adding moisture to the air is not something I would ever
do to "feel warmer".

"Bob F" wrote in message
...
How good is the wall insulation? If the house is old, it may not have
any. If
so, insulating it would make a huge difference.

It's 6000 sq ft, so it's either very old or very new.

On Sun, 10 Jan 2010 15:40:16 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Jan 10, 6:34?pm, Deodiaus wrote:
I have a 6000 sq ft house
The main (5 burner) furnace is a York P2MPD14N08001C
which probably heats up half of the house.
The Pacard Bell blower fan is wired to the black lead (max speed).
It is about 10 F outside and about 62 inside the downstairs of the
house. The upstairs is nice and warm, but has its own independent
furnace.
The furnace seems to be working, but maybe inadequate for the size of
the house.
I have been thinking about installing a new furnace.
Are there any inexpensive ways that I can heat up the house without
replacing the furnace ?
I have two electric heaters running during this unseasonable weather,
which helps, but I was thinking of other ways.
The one idea that I have been considering is changing the blower
fan.
If I were to install a blower fan with bigger blades,
would that help move more heat from the furnace to the rest of the
house?
The blower motor is powered by 110V 50Hz. ?It is rated for 110-220 AC
operation (European is 220 VAC 50Hz).
If I fed it 220 VAC, would that cause problems?
I still have to investigate if the control boards operate at this
rating.

heat into home is tied to BTU output of furnace

How about a direct vent wall furnace of gas logs? assuming your
existing furmnace is alreay a 90+

Whens the last time your furnaces were serviced? if this was never a
problem before your furnace may need a tune up.
OP doesn't say where he is, but with 115 v 50 cycle I'd guess
somewhere where it GENERALLY doesn't get so cold - and the house is
inadequately insulated.

Definitely running the motor on 220 would not make it any better. The
motor gets
rewired" to run on 220 at the same speed and half the current. DO NOT
simply connect the motor to 220 without changing the connections
inside. or you WILL get extra heat - but only long enough to burn out
the motor.( a matter of minutes)

Deodiaus wrote:
The blower motor is powered by 110V 60Hz. It is rated for 110-220 AC
operation (European is 220 VAC 50Hz).
If I fed it 220 VAC, would that cause problems?
I still have to investigate if the control boards operate at this
rating.

Someone just told me that even if I were to run it off a 240 line,
the internal impedance of the motor would be twice as high,
so doing this does not run the fan faster.

BTW, does anyone know if the there are squirel cage motors with bigger
blades?
If not, would installing a small fan inside make a difference?

If the burner is cycling off and on, a booster fan would make no difference.
Blower speed too high can reduce the plenum temperature too fast so the
burner must cycle faster, but it is not going to make it shut down faster.
Just the opposite.

From everything I've read here so far, I'm still back at the limit switches
not set properly or not working properly. Blowers only more air, burners
make hat. IMO, you need a pro to find the real cause. Oh, and ca we assume
you are trying to keep the house in the normal 68 to 72 range that most of
us use? Not 85 degrees.

On Sun, 10 Jan 2010 18:08:41 -0800 (PST), ransley
wrote:

On Jan 10, 7:51Â*pm, Deodiaus wrote:
Hi,
Blower better be running on medium speed(not high).
Hot air is easy to push than cold air. High speed is for cooling.

How much of a difference (in percentage) is it to push hot air rather
than cold?
BTW, what anyone know the difference in speeds between the 3 settings?
I will try this, as it is just a 5 min matter of changing settings.

The blower is set where its at for a reason, just like its set at high
on AC mode, you may feel less comfortable with a higher blower speed
from breeze and just burn more electricity. From what little I know
lower is better but the temp of the exchanger should not go above the
design limit.
Running the blower faster will do the same as a bigger blower.
Depending on the circumstances, it MIGHT get more heat to the cold
part of the house. closing down a few air outlets in the "warm" part
of the hose may help balance the airflow and get more heat to the cold
end of the house. It may reduce the TEMPERATURE of the outlet air, but
it will increase the volume, so it MIGHT get more heat into the house
- particularly if the volume allowed into the warm part of the house
is restricted.

In areas where it generally does not get too cold the airflow
ballancing and duct sizing are sometimes not as well optimized as they
could be - and if you have central air, and the hot time of the year
requires more cooling than the cold time requires heat, the ducting
may be optimized for cooling.

It's been unseasonably cold here the last little wile, with -4F or
colder nights. Furnace ran 6 hous and 48 minutes today. 267.5 hours so
far this season.

mm wrote:
On Sun, 10 Jan 2010 18:44:59 -0700, Tony
wrote:

Hmmm,
Sounds like you don't have a humidifier where you need one in winter.

I have one in the furnace, but that doesn't work when the furnace
isn't working. His furnace runs some, but we don't know if it has a
humidifier or not.
Hi,
Indeed, humidifier runs when blower is on. If I need to raise humidity
without heat, I just run the blower only.

I live in Memphis, TN and trying to get the [18 year old] house to 72
deg F.
The electricity is 110 VAC 60Hz. I mistyped.
Often, the furnace is referred to as York P2MP 5 [gas] burner model.
There is a humidifier upstairs, but I don't know if it needs to be fed
water or nor.
There is a slot on the Johnson Control board for a humidifier, but the
Aprilaire humidifier is not connected to that.

On Sun, 10 Jan 2010 23:12:17 -0500, "h"
wrote:


"mm" wrote in message
.. .
I want some of whatever you're smoking...Come on , stop bogarding it and
pass it over here...LOL....

You're talking about steam and boiling water? Don't knock it till
you've tried.

I find exactly the opposite. I am always MUCH hotter in humid conditions
than in dry even when the temperature is exactly the same.

That's not the opposite, that's what I'm saying. The OP is cold and
he wants to be hotter.

The same holds
true in the winter. On a dry day 15 degrees isn't so bad but on a wet/humid
day it's torture. Adding moisture to the air is not something I would ever
do to "feel warmer".

15^ F? That would be outside, where one can't control the humidity.
Where he is it's 10 outside and 62 inside.

15^ C? 61^ F? Humidity would make that torture? But much hotter
too?

I added this in the post after the one you answered, " Houses
are typically dry in the winter. To go from 10 to 30 percent up to 50
to 75 percent makes an enormous differnence. " For the better, I
think, if it was 62^F in the house.

The guys who design and build furnaces generally know what
they are doing. I've read several posts in this thread.
Medium speed for heat makes sense. Also look into more
insulation. Plastic on the windows, that kind of thing. A
humidifier is also a good idea.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Deodiaus" wrote in message
...

The blower motor is powered by 110V 60Hz. It is rated for
110-220 AC
operation (European is 220 VAC 50Hz).
If I fed it 220 VAC, would that cause problems?
I still have to investigate if the control boards operate
at this
rating.

Someone just told me that even if I were to run it off a 240
line,
the internal impedance of the motor would be twice as high,
so doing this does not run the fan faster.

BTW, does anyone know if the there are squirel cage motors
with bigger
blades?
If not, would installing a small fan inside make a
difference?

"mm" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 10 Jan 2010 23:12:17 -0500, "h"
wrote:


"mm" wrote in message
. ..
I want some of whatever you're smoking...Come on , stop bogarding it and
pass it over here...LOL....

You're talking about steam and boiling water? Don't knock it till
you've tried.

I find exactly the opposite. I am always MUCH hotter in humid conditions
than in dry even when the temperature is exactly the same.

That's not the opposite, that's what I'm saying. The OP is cold and
he wants to be hotter.

The same holds
true in the winter. On a dry day 15 degrees isn't so bad but on a
wet/humid
day it's torture. Adding moisture to the air is not something I would ever
do to "feel warmer".


15^ C? 61^ F? Humidity would make that torture? But much hotter
too?

No, doofus, 15F. If you are outside in humid weather it's torture. If it's
dry it's fine. Same thing inside (exactly what I said). I heat my house to
50F and I keep it dry as a bone. If I used a humidifier I'd be too cold.
Humidity intensifies the temperature, so hot is hotter and cold is colder.

On Sun, 10 Jan 2010 15:34:53 -0800, Deodiaus wrote:
Are there any inexpensive ways that I can heat up the house without
replacing the furnace ?

Wall insulation, attic insulation, double-glazing, sealing sources of
drafts. Opening curtains on south-facing windows when the sun's heating
the windows. Maybe some solar furnace panels on bare bits of south-facing
walls, if you can stand to look at them.

Check with your local power company; there might be grants available for
all kinds of things.

cheers

Jules

A 110 volt motor run on 220 VAC won't run for very long.
Couple nanoseconds?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


Someone just told me that even if I were to run it off a
240 line,
the internal impedance of the motor would be twice as high,
so doing this does not run the fan faster.

That doesn't right to me. The resistance of the windings
won't change
and the inductive impedance, also in ohms is dependant on
the
frequency of the current, which isn't going to change.

On Jan 11, 7:48*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
A 110 volt motor run on 220 VAC won't run for very long.
Couple nanoseconds?

The motor is rated for 110-220 VAC, 50-60 Hz,
I guess so that they can sell the same model in both Europe and
America.

Deodiaus wrote:
On Jan 11, 7:48 am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
A 110 volt motor run on 220 VAC won't run for very long.
Couple nanoseconds?

The motor is rated for 110-220 VAC, 50-60 Hz,
I guess so that they can sell the same model in both Europe and
America.

But you probably re-wire the connections to it to use it on 220VAC.

Deodiaus wrote:
The furnace and house was last inspected about 2 years ago, when I
bought it.
It seems as if the unit fires up, heats up, and shuts off for a little
while (the exhaust vent cools down to a confortable touch).
It then starts back up again ok. Is there a way to change the setting
for how long this delay should be?
The blower delay time is set to about 120 sec, the medium setting.
I swapped the source1 control board for a
Johnson Control pt #031-01140 model# G951ADB-1402
from another unit, but the same problem still exists.
BTW, I also changed the filters.

If the furnace is cycling on and off, you are not getting the maximum heat out.
You need to figure out why it is turning off before reaching the set
temperature, and fix that. It could be as simple as replacing the filter.