I have an Source1 HVAC control which is failing. It works. turns on
the heat, but shuts off prematurely. Does anyone know if it is
possible to fix it, or is that too complicated to try fixing by
replacing the heat damaged resistors and diodes?
see front at
http://deodiaus.tripod.com/source1f.jpg
back at
http://deodiaus.tripod.com/source1b.jpg
Thanks

BTW, this image was scanned with a HP desk scanner
http://deodiaus.tripod.com/source1f.jpg
Is there anyway to set the scanner so as to set the focal length 1
inch farther out?
I was thinking of removing the glass cover and hope the head don't
touch the board!

BTW, this image was scanned with a HP desk scanner
http://deodiaus.tripod.com/source1f.jpg
Is there anyway to set the scanner so as to set the focal length 1
inch farther out?
I was thinking of removing the glass cover and hope the head don't
touch the board!

"Deodiaus" wrote in message
...
I have an Source1 HVAC control which is failing. It works. turns on
the heat, but shuts off prematurely.

It may be going out on safety. You need an experienced tech check out the
system to see if the board is at fault,
or if you have another problem that's shutting down the system.

"Deodiaus" wrote in message
...
I have an Source1 HVAC control which is failing. It works. turns on
the heat, but shuts off prematurely.

It may be going out on safety. You need an experienced tech check out the
system to see if the board is at fault,
or if you have another problem that's shutting down the system.

Hi!

That looks similar to a controller I've seen in a Comfortmaker
furnace. The controller in that application was known as "The General
90" and was also made in Mexico. Although it had fewer components on
it, the connectors were very similar and in about the same positions.

It's mentioned on that particular controller that no service is
possible, so don't expect any help from the manufacturer. They'll
probably try to sell you another one.

What I'd look at are any and all capacitors, to see if any have
failed. If the module is mounted on the furnace blower, it should have
very good cooling, so heat related failures are unlikely as long as
the blower is running. :-) But if it's not in the path of some
airflow, or if it's near a burner, the capacitors are a likely
candidate for problems. They won't stand the heat, as the electrolyte
dries up and makes the capacitor fail. If you do not have a capacitor
checker, look for bulged tops or brown flaky residue on the capacitor
tops.

If that doesn't turn anything up, the glue that seems to be all over
that board should be investigated. Some of it may have turned
conductive over time. This will produce strange results.

Finally, examine the relays. See if you can pop them open without
undue violence. You may find burned contacts that don't do what they
are supposed to do reliably. Fixing this may be a little difficult--
usually some gentle abrasion of the contacts to clean the burnt
material away will work, but eventually you will need a new relay as
the damage will eventually return. If the manufacturer of the relays
is still making them, and they are not a custom part, you may be able
to get them.

William

Hi!

That looks similar to a controller I've seen in a Comfortmaker
furnace. The controller in that application was known as "The General
90" and was also made in Mexico. Although it had fewer components on
it, the connectors were very similar and in about the same positions.

It's mentioned on that particular controller that no service is
possible, so don't expect any help from the manufacturer. They'll
probably try to sell you another one.

What I'd look at are any and all capacitors, to see if any have
failed. If the module is mounted on the furnace blower, it should have
very good cooling, so heat related failures are unlikely as long as
the blower is running. :-) But if it's not in the path of some
airflow, or if it's near a burner, the capacitors are a likely
candidate for problems. They won't stand the heat, as the electrolyte
dries up and makes the capacitor fail. If you do not have a capacitor
checker, look for bulged tops or brown flaky residue on the capacitor
tops.

If that doesn't turn anything up, the glue that seems to be all over
that board should be investigated. Some of it may have turned
conductive over time. This will produce strange results.

Finally, examine the relays. See if you can pop them open without
undue violence. You may find burned contacts that don't do what they
are supposed to do reliably. Fixing this may be a little difficult--
usually some gentle abrasion of the contacts to clean the burnt
material away will work, but eventually you will need a new relay as
the damage will eventually return. If the manufacturer of the relays
is still making them, and they are not a custom part, you may be able
to get them.

William

Hi!

Is there anyway to set the scanner so as to set the focal
length 1 inch farther out?

Probably not easily or at all. I believe you'd have to change the
scanner's optics considerably to pull this off. Do you have a digital
camera?

If you do, it should do an acceptable job of photographing the board
and its components. Any macro mode that is available can be used for
close ups.

William

Hi!

Is there anyway to set the scanner so as to set the focal
length 1 inch farther out?

Probably not easily or at all. I believe you'd have to change the
scanner's optics considerably to pull this off. Do you have a digital
camera?

If you do, it should do an acceptable job of photographing the board
and its components. Any macro mode that is available can be used for
close ups.

William

Flatbed scanner for circuit board? Neat! I didn't see any
really bad solder connections. A friend of mine is a
computer repairman. I've done a bunch of circuit board
solder, but that was decades ago. I'm sure I've still got
the touch. You may have a computer guy near you who can look
it over.

At the moment, I'll agree with my esteemed colleague, Steve.
And suggest you call a furnace tech. Sounds like the board
isn't the problem.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Deodiaus" wrote in message
...
I have an Source1 HVAC control which is failing. It works.
turns on
the heat, but shuts off prematurely. Does anyone know if it
is
possible to fix it, or is that too complicated to try fixing
by
replacing the heat damaged resistors and diodes?
see front at
http://deodiaus.tripod.com/source1f.jpg
back at
http://deodiaus.tripod.com/source1b.jpg
Thanks

Flatbed scanner for circuit board? Neat! I didn't see any
really bad solder connections. A friend of mine is a
computer repairman. I've done a bunch of circuit board
solder, but that was decades ago. I'm sure I've still got
the touch. You may have a computer guy near you who can look
it over.

At the moment, I'll agree with my esteemed colleague, Steve.
And suggest you call a furnace tech. Sounds like the board
isn't the problem.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Deodiaus" wrote in message
...
I have an Source1 HVAC control which is failing. It works.
turns on
the heat, but shuts off prematurely. Does anyone know if it
is
possible to fix it, or is that too complicated to try fixing
by
replacing the heat damaged resistors and diodes?
see front at
http://deodiaus.tripod.com/source1f.jpg
back at
http://deodiaus.tripod.com/source1b.jpg
Thanks

What brand of furnace is that on? I assume it is a gas unit. Most
furnace boards have an LED status indicator that blinks out codes to aid
in troubleshooting. Does yours? Larry

What brand of furnace is that on? I assume it is a gas unit. Most
furnace boards have an LED status indicator that blinks out codes to aid
in troubleshooting. Does yours? Larry

On Dec 9, 10:14*pm, (Lp1331 1p1331) wrote:
What brand of furnace is that on? I assume it is a gas unit. Most
furnace boards have an LED status indicator that blinks out codes to aid
in troubleshooting. Does yours? *Larry
It is on a York gas furnace
Actually, it blinks 4 times.
message in manual = This indicates that a primary or auxiliary limit
switch has opened its normally closed contacts. This condition maybe
caused by : dirty filter, improperly sized duct system, incorrect
blower speed setting, incorrect firing rate, or faulty blower motor.
The filter seems clean. I removed it just to be sure.
What would cause an incorrect firing rate?
What exactly is a limit switch? Is it that switch (which I shorted for
diagnostics) which detects the cover plate on?

However, when I replace it with a Johnson Control G951ADB-1402, the
furnace worked just fine.

BTW, I found one place
http://www.plccenter.com/repair/webe...031012670 01A
that repairs them at ~ $120,
but I can buy one on EBay for $80 once I put in the correct search
terms 031-01972-000.

On Dec 9, 10:14*pm, (Lp1331 1p1331) wrote:
What brand of furnace is that on? I assume it is a gas unit. Most
furnace boards have an LED status indicator that blinks out codes to aid
in troubleshooting. Does yours? *Larry
It is on a York gas furnace
Actually, it blinks 4 times.
message in manual = This indicates that a primary or auxiliary limit
switch has opened its normally closed contacts. This condition maybe
caused by : dirty filter, improperly sized duct system, incorrect
blower speed setting, incorrect firing rate, or faulty blower motor.
The filter seems clean. I removed it just to be sure.
What would cause an incorrect firing rate?
What exactly is a limit switch? Is it that switch (which I shorted for
diagnostics) which detects the cover plate on?

However, when I replace it with a Johnson Control G951ADB-1402, the
furnace worked just fine.

BTW, I found one place
http://www.plccenter.com/repair/webe...031012670 01A
that repairs them at ~ $120,
but I can buy one on EBay for $80 once I put in the correct search
terms 031-01972-000.

In article
,
Deodiaus wrote:

I have an Source1 HVAC control which is failing. It works. turns on
the heat, but shuts off prematurely. Does anyone know if it is
possible to fix it, or is that too complicated to try fixing by
replacing the heat damaged resistors and diodes?
see front at
http://deodiaus.tripod.com/source1f.jpg
back at
http://deodiaus.tripod.com/source1b.jpg
Thanks

If anything is failing on those boards, it's most likely one of those
relays. Hard to say for sure with pic out of focus like that, but sure
looks like there's a few areas of dismally bad original solder, too.

In article
,
Deodiaus wrote:

I have an Source1 HVAC control which is failing. It works. turns on
the heat, but shuts off prematurely. Does anyone know if it is
possible to fix it, or is that too complicated to try fixing by
replacing the heat damaged resistors and diodes?
see front at
http://deodiaus.tripod.com/source1f.jpg
back at
http://deodiaus.tripod.com/source1b.jpg
Thanks

If anything is failing on those boards, it's most likely one of those
relays. Hard to say for sure with pic out of focus like that, but sure
looks like there's a few areas of dismally bad original solder, too.

Lets see. The board is telling you there is something wrong.
You try a different board and now you get heat. But that
doesn't mean the furnace is OK. Might mean you have a board
that doesn't read the sensor in question. You may still have
a dangerous condition.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Deodiaus" wrote in message
...

It is on a York gas furnace
Actually, it blinks 4 times.
message in manual = This indicates that a primary or
auxiliary limit
switch has opened its normally closed contacts. This
condition maybe
caused by : dirty filter, improperly sized duct system,
incorrect
blower speed setting, incorrect firing rate, or faulty
blower motor.
The filter seems clean. I removed it just to be sure.
What would cause an incorrect firing rate?
What exactly is a limit switch? Is it that switch (which I
shorted for
diagnostics) which detects the cover plate on?

However, when I replace it with a Johnson Control
G951ADB-1402, the
furnace worked just fine.

BTW, I found one place
http://www.plccenter.com/repair/webe...031012670 01A
that repairs them at ~ $120,
but I can buy one on EBay for $80 once I put in the correct
search
terms 031-01972-000.

"Deodiaus" wrote in message
...
On Dec 9, 10:14 pm, (Lp1331 1p1331) wrote:
It is on a York gas furnace
Actually, it blinks 4 times.
message in manual = This indicates that a primary or auxiliary limit
switch has opened its normally closed contacts. This condition maybe
caused by : dirty filter, improperly sized duct system, incorrect
blower speed setting, incorrect firing rate, or faulty blower motor.
The filter seems clean. I removed it just to be sure.
What would cause an incorrect firing rate?
What exactly is a limit switch?

A limit switch is a safety switch that shuts the burners down when the
furnace
gets hotter than it normally should. A primary limit switch is normally
locateed near the heat exchangers.
Some furnaces (downflow models) usually have another limit called an
auxilary limit.
It sounds like you have an air flow problem and aren't flowing enough air
thru to keep
the heat exchangers down to a safe temp. Do you possible have an A/C coil
mounted on
the furnace that could be plugged up with dirt & lint over the years? This
would restrict the air flow.
It could be several other things. It's best if a tech checks it out.

Thanks a lot. I have come to believe you are correct. I am looking
into cleaning out the duct work.

On Dec 10, 7:30*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
Lets see. The board is telling you there is something wrong.
You try a different board and now you get heat. But that
doesn't mean the furnace is OK. Might mean you have a board
that doesn't read the sensor in question. You may still have
a dangerous condition.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

Thanks a lot. I have come to believe you are correct. I am looking
into cleaning out the duct work.

On Dec 10, 7:30*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
Lets see. The board is telling you there is something wrong.
You try a different board and now you get heat. But that
doesn't mean the furnace is OK. Might mean you have a board
that doesn't read the sensor in question. You may still have
a dangerous condition.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

On Dec 10, 7:47*am, "Steve N." wrote:
"Deodiaus" wrote in message

...
On Dec 9, 10:14 pm, (Lp1331 1p1331) wrote:

It is on a York gas furnace
Actually, it blinks 4 times.
message in manual = This indicates that a primary or auxiliary limit
switch has opened its normally closed contacts. *This condition maybe
caused by : dirty filter, improperly sized duct system, incorrect
blower speed setting, incorrect firing rate, or faulty blower motor.
The filter seems clean. *I removed it just to be sure.
What would cause an incorrect firing rate?
What exactly is a limit switch?

A limit switch is a safety switch that shuts the burners down when *the
furnace
gets hotter than it normally should. A primary limit switch is normally
locateed *near the heat exchangers.
Some furnaces (downflow models) usually have another limit called an
auxilary limit.
It sounds like you have an air flow problem and aren't flowing enough air
thru to keep
the heat exchangers down to a safe temp. Do you possible have an A/C coil
mounted on
the furnace that could be plugged up with dirt & lint over the years? This
would restrict the air flow.
It could be several other things. It's best if a tech checks it out.

Checking this out right now.
I assumed that the limit switch was something that detected if the
front panel was on.
BTW, I have a 6K sq ft house with 4 HVAC units.
The HVAC in question is rated for 3 tons. It also should heat the
living room, kitchen, dining room and library, which are on the bottom
floor of the house (heat rises up the staircases), and the kitchen and
dinning room are on a concrete slab covered by stone tiles with two
fireplaces. It is about 25F at night outside and the rooms get to be
around 60 deg F. I was wondering if this is an undersized unit for
this house.

On Dec 10, 7:47*am, "Steve N." wrote:
"Deodiaus" wrote in message

...
On Dec 9, 10:14 pm, (Lp1331 1p1331) wrote:

It is on a York gas furnace
Actually, it blinks 4 times.
message in manual = This indicates that a primary or auxiliary limit
switch has opened its normally closed contacts. *This condition maybe
caused by : dirty filter, improperly sized duct system, incorrect
blower speed setting, incorrect firing rate, or faulty blower motor.
The filter seems clean. *I removed it just to be sure.
What would cause an incorrect firing rate?
What exactly is a limit switch?

A limit switch is a safety switch that shuts the burners down when *the
furnace
gets hotter than it normally should. A primary limit switch is normally
locateed *near the heat exchangers.
Some furnaces (downflow models) usually have another limit called an
auxilary limit.
It sounds like you have an air flow problem and aren't flowing enough air
thru to keep
the heat exchangers down to a safe temp. Do you possible have an A/C coil
mounted on
the furnace that could be plugged up with dirt & lint over the years? This
would restrict the air flow.
It could be several other things. It's best if a tech checks it out.

Checking this out right now.
I assumed that the limit switch was something that detected if the
front panel was on.
BTW, I have a 6K sq ft house with 4 HVAC units.
The HVAC in question is rated for 3 tons. It also should heat the
living room, kitchen, dining room and library, which are on the bottom
floor of the house (heat rises up the staircases), and the kitchen and
dinning room are on a concrete slab covered by stone tiles with two
fireplaces. It is about 25F at night outside and the rooms get to be
around 60 deg F. I was wondering if this is an undersized unit for
this house.

Yes, the AC coil is mounted over the York furnace.

the heat exchangers down to a safe temp. Do you possible have an A/C coil
mounted on
the furnace that could be plugged up with dirt & lint over the years? This
would restrict the air flow.
It could be several other things. It's best if a tech checks it out.

Yes, the AC coil is mounted over the York furnace.

the heat exchangers down to a safe temp. Do you possible have an A/C coil
mounted on
the furnace that could be plugged up with dirt & lint over the years? This
would restrict the air flow.
It could be several other things. It's best if a tech checks it out.

Remove the blow up doll from the return air register from
your son's room.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Deodiaus" wrote in message
...
Thanks a lot. I have come to believe you are correct. I am
looking
into cleaning out the duct work.

On Dec 10, 7:30 am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
Lets see. The board is telling you there is something
wrong.
You try a different board and now you get heat. But that
doesn't mean the furnace is OK. Might mean you have a
board
that doesn't read the sensor in question. You may still
have
a dangerous condition.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

Those AC coils are noted for clogging. Also nearly
impossible for home owner to get at, to clean.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Deodiaus" wrote in message
...
Yes, the AC coil is mounted over the York furnace.

the heat exchangers down to a safe temp. Do you possible
have an A/C coil
mounted on
the furnace that could be plugged up with dirt & lint over
the years? This
would restrict the air flow.
It could be several other things. It's best if a tech
checks it out.

I have a York p2mp furnace. I pulled off one of the panels near the
heat exchanger.
That looked clean.
I probably need to pull oout the fan housing and see if there might
not be anything inside.
BTW, is a 3 ton unit enough to heat about half the downstairs of a
living room, dining room, kitchen on a 6K sq ft house? There are 4
such units total in the house.
On Dec 11, 4:00*pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
Those AC coils are noted for clogging. Also nearly
impossible for home owner to get at, to clean.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

"Deodiaus" wrote in message

...
Yes, the AC coil is mounted over the York furnace.

the heat exchangers down to a safe temp. Do you possible
have an A/C coil
mounted on
the furnace that could be plugged up with dirt & lint over
the years? This
would restrict the air flow.
It could be several other things. It's best if a tech
checks it out.

Does anyone know how to clean it out
see a pic
http://southjersey.craigslist.org/for/1498238163.html

Yes, looks pretty routine to me. A basic clean and check.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Deodiaus" wrote in message
...
Does anyone know how to clean it out
see a pic
http://southjersey.craigslist.org/for/1498238163.html

The problem was that I mounted the fan backwards.