Note that the bare area has some raised grain and that there is
considerable staining.
I propose:
(1) Strip
(2) Sand
(3) Refinish with stain/poly combo.
I assume I will need to apply oxalic acid at some point but am not
sure how/when to do it.
A professional refinisher ($275 est) has said it might not be
possible to get a good job. Really all I need is a passable one as the
table resides in a corner in a room that isn't used much.
Any advice you could give would be much appreciated!
Thank you!
Frank

Thank you all for your excellent (and detailed) suggestions. It would
be impossible for me to comment on each suggestion but I should be
honest and tell you that I do not have the time or the inclination to
get this "compliment" perfect.
I noted Baron's comments in particular because he referred to the
wood bleach. I will try to get a picture and a link for you all so you
can see that the black staining is rather severe and that the wood
(without finish) is scaly in some places. Sanding alone will not do
the trick I am sure- there must be solvent used to get the surface of
the table uniform. I have noted your comments about stain/poly combos.
Thanks all again. I will most likely rely on a combination of your
various advices.
Frank

"frank1492" wrote

wood bleach. I will try to get a picture and a link for you all so you
can see that the black staining is rather severe and that the wood
(without finish) is scaly in some places. Sanding alone will not do
the trick I am sure- there must be solvent used to get the surface of
the table uniform. I have noted your comments about stain/poly combos.

Hi Frank, I meant toi jump in here earlier but got busy. Sorry. This is
the round table on it's side so we saw the top of right?

Don and I as a hobby refinsh solid wood pieces all the time. When we accrue
to much, we freecyle them away to foilks just setting up in nw homes (or
first apartment) so they have at least a few 'nice' things. Like the cherry
wood table we got for 5$ off a yardsale neighbor who just offered us $250
for it after seeing how nice it cleaned up. (It was so bad, none of us knew
it was solid cherry underneath)

If the table is solid wood (not veneer at all), chemical stipping to help
with the legs can be a good thing (couldnt see them in the link I recall) as
well as helping with any beveling on the edges of the table. No chemicals
will 'smooth the wood' though where it is scaly if I understand what you
mean. You sand down the top layer insead. After that, if a reasonable
layer off with a hand electric sander on the top doesnt work (use a very
fine grit and keep at it, this will preserve the wood natural pattern) then
the stain is very deep indeed. A wood bleach *may* work but it's apt to
seep back up in time.

If this is the case, the way to work it is go a fairly dark stain over all
of it. As others said, don't ue the 'all in one' products if you want a
truely nice looking piece in the end. If you have some spare scrap wood,
practice staing on that. If not, do the bottom side of the table first to
get the hang of it (imperfections won't show to other than a toddler then
;-)

frank1492 wrote:
Thank you all for your excellent (and detailed) suggestions. It would
be impossible for me to comment on each suggestion but I should be
honest and tell you that I do not have the time or the inclination to
get this "compliment" perfect.
I noted Baron's comments in particular because he referred to the
wood bleach. I will try to get a picture and a link for you all so you
can see that the black staining is rather severe and that the wood
(without finish) is scaly in some places. Sanding alone will not do
the trick I am sure- there must be solvent used to get the surface of
the table uniform. I have noted your comments about stain/poly combos.
Thanks all again. I will most likely rely on a combination of your
various advices.
Frank

If the surface is "scaly", I will venture a guess that the table has
veneer that is loose, warping and cracking. There is no solvent that I
know of that will level wood. If the surface is bad veneer, it is
probably best to remove and replace it .. unless you remove it and find
good wood underneath. Replacement veneer is not terribly difficult to
apply, and it may also be your solution to the staining...probably less
expensive than chemicals. Oak veneer with any clear finish, whether
oil, varnish or poly, is beautiful without any other treatment. Same
for many woods.