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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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Concentricity and order of operations...
Awl--
So ahm drilling holes w/ a drill/chuck/tailstock in a lathe/5C collet, in 1/4" brass, 1.75" long. Sequence 1: center drill both ends, 3/16 drill both ends, about 1/2" in, then 1/8" drill thru. Awful results; very poor concentricity of 1/8" hole at the exit end. Drove me crazy. Sequence 2: center drill both ends, 1/8" drill (thru, or halfway from both ends), then the 3/16" drill. Excellent concentricity. Sanity restored. I endeavored in seq. 1 because I thought the thicker drill would have inherently less drift, and that with less resultant material for the 1/8" drill to go thru, less drift/better concentricity. But not so. Others experience this? A friend says that poor results of seq 1 is likely exacerbated by the brass material itself, and that custom sharpening of the drills would help--sumpn like split point, but diff, he says--hasn't shown me yet. And also that my assumption, that the cone left by the 3/16 bit is centering the 1/8 bit, is proly not valid. Altho it seems to me a 3/16 drill would be an adequate spot drill for a 1/8 drill. Any idears on this? ---------------------------- Mr. P.V.'d formerly Droll Troll |
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the surface left by a standard 118 point drill is very poor for centering a
new bit , very easy to start off of center |
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I don't think the cone left by one drill is very good at guiding another. My
method is to use the center drill, then the best drill I have of the center drill pilot size. It seems that some of my drills are more symmetric and drill straighter than others. Those I have resharpened {and those from China} are sometimes not in this category :}. Don Young "Proctologically Violated©®" wrote in message ... Awl-- So ahm drilling holes w/ a drill/chuck/tailstock in a lathe/5C collet, in 1/4" brass, 1.75" long. Sequence 1: center drill both ends, 3/16 drill both ends, about 1/2" in, then 1/8" drill thru. Awful results; very poor concentricity of 1/8" hole at the exit end. Drove me crazy. Sequence 2: center drill both ends, 1/8" drill (thru, or halfway from both ends), then the 3/16" drill. Excellent concentricity. Sanity restored. I endeavored in seq. 1 because I thought the thicker drill would have inherently less drift, and that with less resultant material for the 1/8" drill to go thru, less drift/better concentricity. But not so. Others experience this? A friend says that poor results of seq 1 is likely exacerbated by the brass material itself, and that custom sharpening of the drills would help--sumpn like split point, but diff, he says--hasn't shown me yet. And also that my assumption, that the cone left by the 3/16 bit is centering the 1/8 bit, is proly not valid. Altho it seems to me a 3/16 drill would be an adequate spot drill for a 1/8 drill. Any idears on this? ---------------------------- Mr. P.V.'d formerly Droll Troll |
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"Proctologically Violated©®" wrote in
: Awl-- So ahm drilling holes w/ a drill/chuck/tailstock in a lathe/5C collet, in 1/4" brass, 1.75" long. Sequence 1: center drill both ends, 3/16 drill both ends, about 1/2" in, then 1/8" drill thru. Awful results; very poor concentricity of 1/8" hole at the exit end. Drove me crazy. Sequence 2: center drill both ends, 1/8" drill (thru, or halfway from both ends), then the 3/16" drill. Excellent concentricity. Sanity restored. In any cutting operation, the tool will attempt to flex to the side with least resistance. So, in the case of a drill in a lathe, the drill will "walk" toward the cutting edge of the drill that is cutting easier. This could be only microscopic differences in the cutting edges in smaller drills/tools. The center left by the previous drill in your first method doesn't make any difference because, most likely, the portion of the larger drill that is causing the off center walk resides inside the portion left by the pilot drill. When you hit full cut length on both flutes of the drill, the drill walks. By pre-drilling all the way through, you eliminate the portion of the cutting edge causing a problem from cutting anything, and the part of the drill edges that are actually cutting are matched up close enough that it does not drift. -- Anthony You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make better idiots. Remove sp to reply via email http://www.machines-cnc.net:81/ |
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Anthony wrote:
So, in the case of a drill in a lathe, the drill will "walk" toward the cutting edge of the drill that is cutting easier. Yes, but that side is rotating (relative to the work). Nick -- Motor Modelle // Engine Models http://www.motor-manufaktur.de |
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