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#1
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Extension ladder reach
I have two fairly short stories in a split level house. The highest
gutters are approximately 15' above ground level. I know the 4:1 rule for putting up an extension ladder but I'm not sure how much of a 20' extension ladder is lost to the overlap. Is a 20' ladder enough to reach eaves or do I need a 22'? |
#2
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Extension ladder reach
"Christopher Nelson" wrote in message ... I have two fairly short stories in a split level house. The highest gutters are approximately 15' above ground level. I know the 4:1 rule for putting up an extension ladder but I'm not sure how much of a 20' extension ladder is lost to the overlap. Is a 20' ladder enough to reach eaves or do I need a 22'? A 20' will extend to 17' |
#3
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Extension ladder reach
Christopher Nelson wrote:
I have two fairly short stories in a split level house. The highest gutters are approximately 15' above ground level. I know the 4:1 rule for putting up an extension ladder but I'm not sure how much of a 20' extension ladder is lost to the overlap. Is a 20' ladder enough to reach eaves or do I need a 22'? You can figure 3 feet of overlap between sections for the lengths you're considering, so a 24' ladder will be 21'. If you want to get on the roof, you'll want a ladder that reaches a couple of feet higher than the roof line. Your choices may be limited to 20' or 24' -- I don't recall seeing any 22' extension ladders in stores. |
#4
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Extension ladder reach
Mike Paulsen wrote:
Christopher Nelson wrote: I have two fairly short stories in a split level house. The highest gutters are approximately 15' above ground level. I know the 4:1 rule for putting up an extension ladder but I'm not sure how much of a 20' extension ladder is lost to the overlap. Is a 20' ladder enough to reach eaves or do I need a 22'? You can figure 3 feet of overlap between sections for the lengths you're considering, so a 24' ladder will be 21'. If you want to get on the roof, you'll want a ladder that reaches a couple of feet higher than the roof line. Your choices may be limited to 20' or 24' -- I don't recall seeing any 22' extension ladders in stores. And be aware- a 24' will make you feel puny carrying it and placing it by yourself. I have a 24' 1a fiberglas, and it is heavy. And for a heavy-duty ladder, it is still pretty bouncy at close to full extension. Don't even think about aluminum that long, unless you are under 150 pounds, with tools. A buddy at work, skinny guy, bought an aluminum 20-foot, a name brand, and returned it after one use because he found it too bouncy to work from. I wish a had a 20', since this 24' is really more than I need for this one story house. But at the time, the 24' was 60-some bucks cheaper at Sam's, than the 20' was at Lowes or Menards... -- aem sends... |
#5
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Extension ladder reach
In article ,
aemeijers wrote: And be aware- a 24' will make you feel puny carrying it and placing it by yourself. I have a 24' 1a fiberglas, and it is heavy. And for a heavy-duty ladder, it is still pretty bouncy at close to full extension. Don't even think about aluminum that long, unless you are under 150 pounds, with tools. A buddy at work, skinny guy, bought an aluminum 20-foot, a name brand, and returned it after one use because he found it too bouncy to work from. I wish a had a 20', since this 24' is really more than I need for this one story house. But at the time, the 24' was 60-some bucks cheaper at Sam's, than the 20' was at Lowes or Menards... -- aem sends... Hmm, well, I bought a 24' aluminum ladder recently, and have been pretty pleased with it. It's a bit springy at full extension but so what? The wingtips of a 747 flex up and down about 10 feet and that doesn't worry me either. When I was a kid we hired the local house painter and he had the tallest damn extension ladder I've ever seen. It must've been close to forty feet. He'd scamper up that thing and paint as much as he could reach. Then he'd grab the rails and throw his body weight away from the house to release the top edges, and jerk it to one side about three or four feet. A bit more painting, then do the same to the other side. |
#6
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Extension ladder reach
Smitty Two wrote:
In article , aemeijers wrote: And be aware- a 24' will make you feel puny carrying it and placing it by yourself. I have a 24' 1a fiberglas, and it is heavy. And for a heavy-duty ladder, it is still pretty bouncy at close to full extension. Don't even think about aluminum that long, unless you are under 150 pounds, with tools. A buddy at work, skinny guy, bought an aluminum 20-foot, a name brand, and returned it after one use because he found it too bouncy to work from. I wish a had a 20', since this 24' is really more than I need for this one story house. But at the time, the 24' was 60-some bucks cheaper at Sam's, than the 20' was at Lowes or Menards... -- aem sends... Hmm, well, I bought a 24' aluminum ladder recently, and have been pretty pleased with it. It's a bit springy at full extension but so what? The wingtips of a 747 flex up and down about 10 feet and that doesn't worry me either. When I was a kid we hired the local house painter and he had the tallest damn extension ladder I've ever seen. It must've been close to forty feet. He'd scamper up that thing and paint as much as he could reach. Then he'd grab the rails and throw his body weight away from the house to release the top edges, and jerk it to one side about three or four feet. A bit more painting, then do the same to the other side. Sounds like confusion with extended vs unextended ladder. |
#7
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Extension ladder reach
Smitty Two wrote:
When I was a kid we hired the local house painter and he had the tallest damn extension ladder I've ever seen. It must've been close to forty feet. He'd scamper up that thing and paint as much as he could reach. Then he'd grab the rails and throw his body weight away from the house to release the top edges, and jerk it to one side about three or four feet. A bit more painting, then do the same to the other side. I painted a house off of a 40 ft extension ladder one time. It worked out well, but I sure didn't do anything like that. I just painted as much as I could reach, then climbed down and move the ladder. It took me a year. I started in July. I would come home from work, put the ladder up and paint for an hour or 2. When it started cooling off in October I laid off for the winter and started over in May. Of course I didn't do it for a living. Bill |
#8
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Extension ladder reach
"Smitty Two" wrote in message news When I was a kid we hired the local house painter and he had the tallest damn extension ladder I've ever seen. It must've been close to forty feet. He'd scamper up that thing and paint as much as he could reach. Then he'd grab the rails and throw his body weight away from the house to release the top edges, and jerk it to one side about three or four feet. A bit more painting, then do the same to the other side. If the paint fumes didn't get the guy then the inevasible oops will. Do not try this at home folks! This is why they make scaffolds. -- Roger Shoaf If you are not part of the solution, you are not dissolved in the solvent. |
#9
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Extension ladder reach
aemeijers wrote:
Mike Paulsen wrote: Christopher Nelson wrote: I have two fairly short stories in a split level house. The highest gutters are approximately 15' above ground level. I know the 4:1 rule for putting up an extension ladder but I'm not sure how much of a 20' extension ladder is lost to the overlap. Is a 20' ladder enough to reach eaves or do I need a 22'? You can figure 3 feet of overlap between sections for the lengths you're considering, so a 24' ladder will be 21'. If you want to get on the roof, you'll want a ladder that reaches a couple of feet higher than the roof line. Your choices may be limited to 20' or 24' -- I don't recall seeing any 22' extension ladders in stores. And be aware- a 24' will make you feel puny carrying it and placing it by yourself. I have a 24' 1a fiberglas, and it is heavy. And for a heavy-duty ladder, it is still pretty bouncy at close to full extension. Don't even think about aluminum that long, unless you are under 150 pounds, with tools. Nonsense. Aluminum is fine. What you don't want is a cheap aluminum ladder. The heavier ones (Type 1A?) are plenty strong and stiff. My 32' Aluminum ladder is getting kind of heavy for me to put up by myself these days, but it's plenty secure when extended. I have a light weight 20' ladder (Type III?) which is great for quick jobs when not fully extended, but way floppy when near its limit. |
#10
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Extension ladder reach
On Fri, 25 Sep 2009 08:08:24 -0700, Bob F wrote:
Aluminum is fine. What you don't want is a cheap aluminum ladder. The heavier ones (Type 1A?) are plenty strong and stiff. I find my 24' one bounces a lot - but at the same time it feels strong; I don't feel like it's about to snap in two or anything (and of course when fully extended it's only significantly flexible in the middle - so it's only an issue when going up or down, not when working at the top). The pain in the butt isn't the weight, or carrying it, but getting it from a horizontal to vertical position; I never have quite figured out what the 'trick' is there (it likes to lift off the ground as I'm hauling it upright, and the last thing I want is a ladder on top of my head :-) cheers Jules |
#11
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Extension ladder reach
Jules wrote:
On Fri, 25 Sep 2009 08:08:24 -0700, Bob F wrote: Aluminum is fine. What you don't want is a cheap aluminum ladder. The heavier ones (Type 1A?) are plenty strong and stiff. I find my 24' one bounces a lot - but at the same time it feels strong; I don't feel like it's about to snap in two or anything (and of course when fully extended it's only significantly flexible in the middle - so it's only an issue when going up or down, not when working at the top). The pain in the butt isn't the weight, or carrying it, but getting it from a horizontal to vertical position; I never have quite figured out what the 'trick' is there (it likes to lift off the ground as I'm hauling it upright, and the last thing I want is a ladder on top of my head :-) Keep the feet of the ladder right up against the wall until it's vertical, then move the feet out. You could also lay a tube of sand or other weight over the lowest rung. |
#12
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Extension ladder reach
Do like the fire department. Put the foot of the ladder
touching the building. Walk under the ladder, going "hand over hand" towards the building, with hands above your head. Pull the bottom out from the wall after the ladder is vertical. -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "Jules" wrote in message news The pain in the butt isn't the weight, or carrying it, but getting it from a horizontal to vertical position; I never have quite figured out what the 'trick' is there (it likes to lift off the ground as I'm hauling it upright, and the last thing I want is a ladder on top of my head :-) cheers Jules |
#13
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Extension ladder reach
"Bob F" wrote in message ... Nonsense. Aluminum is fine. What you don't want is a cheap aluminum ladder. The heavier ones (Type 1A?) are plenty strong and stiff. My 32' Aluminum ladder is getting kind of heavy for me to put up by myself these days, but it's plenty secure when extended. I have a light weight 20' ladder (Type III?) which is great for quick jobs when not fully extended, but way floppy when near its limit. One reason you might not want an aluminum ladder is if there is any possibility that wires will be involved. This includes portable power tools or whacking the ladder into the power companied feeder lines. -- Roger Shoaf About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then they come up with this striped stuff. |
#14
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Extension ladder reach
Roger Shoaf wrote:
"Bob F" wrote in message ... Nonsense. Aluminum is fine. What you don't want is a cheap aluminum ladder. The heavier ones (Type 1A?) are plenty strong and stiff. My 32' Aluminum ladder is getting kind of heavy for me to put up by myself these days, but it's plenty secure when extended. I have a light weight 20' ladder (Type III?) which is great for quick jobs when not fully extended, but way floppy when near its limit. One reason you might not want an aluminum ladder is if there is any possibility that wires will be involved. This includes portable power tools or whacking the ladder into the power companied feeder lines. The power lines to my house are well insulated, then wrapped around the supporting ground wire. |
#15
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Extension ladder reach
Mike Paulsen wrote:
Christopher Nelson wrote: I have two fairly short stories in a split level house. The highest gutters are approximately 15' above ground level. I know the 4:1 rule for putting up an extension ladder but I'm not sure how much of a 20' extension ladder is lost to the overlap. Is a 20' ladder enough to reach eaves or do I need a 22'? You can figure 3 feet of overlap between sections for the lengths you're considering, so a 24' ladder will be 21'. If you want to get on the roof, you'll want a ladder that reaches a couple of feet higher than the roof line. Your choices may be limited to 20' or 24' -- I don't recall seeing any 22' extension ladders in stores. And be aware- a 24' will make you feel puny carrying it and placing it by yourself. I have a 24' 1a fiberglas, and it is heavy. And for a heavy-duty ladder, it is still pretty bouncy at close to full extension. Don't even think about aluminum that long, unless you are under 150 pounds, with tools. A buddy at work, skinny guy, bought an aluminum 20-foot, a name brand, and returned it after one use because he found it too bouncy to work from. I wish a had a 20', since this 24' is really more than I need for this one story house. But at the time, the 24' was 60-some bucks cheaper at Sam's, than the 20' was at Lowes or Menards... -- aem sends... |
#16
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Extension ladder reach
Should work. Worst case scenario, the ladder goes to the
house, and you have to lean back a bit. The old fire department trick is to stand at the base of the ladder. Extend your arms straight out front. Your hands should barely go to the ladder. That's about the right angle. -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "Christopher Nelson" wrote in message ... I have two fairly short stories in a split level house. The highest gutters are approximately 15' above ground level. I know the 4:1 rule for putting up an extension ladder but I'm not sure how much of a 20' extension ladder is lost to the overlap. Is a 20' ladder enough to reach eaves or do I need a 22'? |
#17
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Extension ladder reach
"Christopher Nelson" wrote in message ... I have two fairly short stories in a split level house. The highest gutters are approximately 15' above ground level. I know the 4:1 rule for putting up an extension ladder but I'm not sure how much of a 20' extension ladder is lost to the overlap. Is a 20' ladder enough to reach eaves or do I need a 22'? A 20' will extend to 17' |
#18
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Extension ladder reach
Christopher Nelson wrote:
I have two fairly short stories in a split level house. The highest gutters are approximately 15' above ground level. I know the 4:1 rule for putting up an extension ladder but I'm not sure how much of a 20' extension ladder is lost to the overlap. Is a 20' ladder enough to reach eaves or do I need a 22'? You can figure 3 feet of overlap between sections for the lengths you're considering, so a 24' ladder will be 21'. If you want to get on the roof, you'll want a ladder that reaches a couple of feet higher than the roof line. Your choices may be limited to 20' or 24' -- I don't recall seeing any 22' extension ladders in stores. |
#19
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Extension ladder reach
Should work. Worst case scenario, the ladder goes to the
house, and you have to lean back a bit. The old fire department trick is to stand at the base of the ladder. Extend your arms straight out front. Your hands should barely go to the ladder. That's about the right angle. -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "Christopher Nelson" wrote in message ... I have two fairly short stories in a split level house. The highest gutters are approximately 15' above ground level. I know the 4:1 rule for putting up an extension ladder but I'm not sure how much of a 20' extension ladder is lost to the overlap. Is a 20' ladder enough to reach eaves or do I need a 22'? |
#20
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Extension ladder reach
Christopher Nelson wrote:
I have two fairly short stories in a split level house. The highest gutters are approximately 15' above ground level. I know the 4:1 rule for putting up an extension ladder but I'm not sure how much of a 20' extension ladder is lost to the overlap. Is a 20' ladder enough to reach eaves or do I need a 22'? Put stabilizers on it- and you can go to about the 10' height and your body will make up the difference. I bought one of these a few years ago because I needed the standoff for a project. Now I love it - http://www.google.com/products/catal... 49&sa=title#p And while you're at it- if your ground is uneven, these make ladder setup a breeze- http://www.google.com/products/catal...5&sa= title#p Jim |
#21
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Extension ladder reach
On Sep 24, 8:40*pm, Christopher Nelson wrote:
I have two fairly short stories in a split level house. *The highest gutters are approximately 15' above ground level. *I know the 4:1 rule for putting up an extension ladder but I'm not sure how much of a 20' extension ladder is lost to the overlap. *Is a 20' ladder enough to reach eaves or do I need a 22'? What you need is a Little Giant. I have one and it is fantastic. Although it is somewhat heavy, it has wheels to move it around which make it easier. Most people turn pale at the price, but if you are doing a lot of DIY home repair is is a very good investment. Being lazy and a bit clumsy, I also have 3' x 6' rolling scaffolding and a 24' aluminum ladder, plus 6' and 8' Type III fiberglass. Bottom line, the more good ladders and scaffolding you have the easier the job. Joe |
#22
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Extension ladder reach
I tore off the siding on my house. The back was/is ~ 16' up to the
eves. I already had the little giant knockoff at Lowes for $160 on sale. Folded in half, shaped like letter A, the top rung is at 9 feet. I then bought 6 pcs of 2x4x12ft. Stood the 2x4x12's on end about 2' apart (all 4 pieces form a square) then cut-up the 5th and 6th piece into braces and screwed them all together. Now I have a "tower" with a support at 9' high. Now I took my extension ladder, laid down horizontally between the tower and little giant knockoff and I have a scaffold that I don't rent. I used my 8' A frame ladder to climb up and onto the scaffold. I used hand truck to move scaffold all around yard. I don't feel comfortable with pump jacks so this is an excellent and reliable/safe system. HTH, Tom On Sep 25, 2:37*pm, Joe wrote: On Sep 24, 8:40*pm, Christopher Nelson wrote: I have two fairly short stories in a split level house. *The highest gutters are approximately 15' above ground level. *I know the 4:1 rule for putting up an extension ladder but I'm not sure how much of a 20' extension ladder is lost to the overlap. *Is a 20' ladder enough to reach eaves or do I need a 22'? What you need is a Little Giant. I have one and it is fantastic. Although it is somewhat heavy, it has wheels to move it around which make it easier. Most people turn pale at the price, but if you are doing a lot of DIY home repair is is a very good investment. Being lazy and a bit clumsy, I also have 3' x 6' rolling scaffolding and a 24' aluminum ladder, plus 6' and 8' Type III fiberglass. Bottom line, the more good ladders and scaffolding you have the easier the job. Joe |
#23
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Extension ladder reach
Tom wrote:
I tore off the siding on my house. The back was/is ~ 16' up to the eves. I already had the little giant knockoff at Lowes for $160 on sale. Folded in half, shaped like letter A, the top rung is at 9 feet. I then bought 6 pcs of 2x4x12ft. Stood the 2x4x12's on end about 2' apart (all 4 pieces form a square) then cut-up the 5th and 6th piece into braces and screwed them all together. Now I have a "tower" with a support at 9' high. Now I took my extension ladder, laid down horizontally between the tower and little giant knockoff and I have a scaffold that I don't rent. I used my 8' A frame ladder to climb up and onto the scaffold. I used hand truck to move scaffold all around yard. I don't feel comfortable with pump jacks so this is an excellent and reliable/safe system. HTH, Tom I think I'll take a couple ladders and ladder jacks and a plank for that job. |
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