May have to get a nailer in the future for a one house job. At that
location in another state there is no Harbor Freight outlet. May consider
buying it in advance.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=99640

The only time I used a nailer was the manual kind on some 3/4 T&G like 25
years ago. How do these work? I see they are air but include a "slugging
hammer" as the HF description calls it. I assume hitting the black button
with the hammer is what triggers the nail driven by air? I mean if the air
is driving the nail why do you need to "slug" it? 25 years ago the long
hours of bending and fully swing slugging to drive were bad enough. I can
imagine at 2x+ that age. I mean I'm pretty limber and conditioned but I
certainly prefer to work smarter, hence air, so what's with the slugging
hammer?

Anyone have this particular tool? Pros and cons appreciated. Jams?, will it
use widely available nails/cleats like Bostitch?, fully drives fasteners?,
anything else? I have a pancake 150psi compressor which should be fine
since it states "Maximum air operating pressu 100 PSI".

"Red Green" wrote in message
...
May have to get a nailer in the future for a one house job. At that
location in another state there is no Harbor Freight outlet. May consider
buying it in advance.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=99640

The only time I used a nailer was the manual kind on some 3/4 T&G like 25
years ago. How do these work? I see they are air but include a "slugging
hammer" as the HF description calls it. I assume hitting the black button
with the hammer is what triggers the nail driven by air? I mean if the air
is driving the nail why do you need to "slug" it? 25 years ago the long
hours of bending and fully swing slugging to drive were bad enough. I can
imagine at 2x+ that age. I mean I'm pretty limber and conditioned but I
certainly prefer to work smarter, hence air, so what's with the slugging
hammer?

Anyone have this particular tool? Pros and cons appreciated. Jams?, will
it
use widely available nails/cleats like Bostitch?, fully drives fasteners?,
anything else? I have a pancake 150psi compressor which should be fine
since it states "Maximum air operating pressu 100 PSI".

The reason you still use the hammer is to make sure the piece of flooring is
tight to the piece next to it though you don't have to hit it as hard..Never
used the HF one but for one house I'm sure it would be fine....Perhaps
others have???

On Jul 24, 10:04*pm, Red Green wrote:
May have to get a nailer in the future for a one house job. At that
location in another state there is no Harbor Freight outlet. May consider
buying it in advance.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=99640

The only time I used a nailer was the manual kind on some 3/4 T&G like 25
years ago. How do these work? I see they are air but include a "slugging
hammer" as the HF description calls it. I assume hitting the black button
with the hammer is what triggers the nail driven by air? I mean if the air
is driving the nail why do you need to "slug" it? 25 years ago the long
hours of bending and fully swing slugging to drive were bad enough. I can
imagine at 2x+ that age. I mean I'm pretty limber and conditioned but I
certainly prefer to work smarter, hence air, so what's with the slugging
hammer?

Anyone have this particular tool? Pros and cons appreciated. Jams?, will it
use widely available nails/cleats like Bostitch?, fully drives fasteners?,
anything else? I have a pancake 150psi compressor which should be fine
since it states "Maximum air operating pressu 100 PSI".

I bought the cheap menards nailer, it jammed so I returned it for
bostich. HF is good for many things, but of you have any issue an
exchange wont be worth the trouble and would stop the job, you would
just go buy a new one to keep working. If you were going to put it to
continous use immediatly then it might be different, but let it sit
and the warranty could be lost by the time you use it.

ransley wrote in
:

On Jul 24, 10:04*pm, Red Green wrote:
May have to get a nailer in the future for a one house job. At that
location in another state there is no Harbor Freight outlet. May
consider buying it in advance.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=99640

The only time I used a nailer was the manual kind on some 3/4 T&G
like 25 years ago. How do these work? I see they are air but include
a "slugging hammer" as the HF description calls it. I assume hitting
the black button with the hammer is what triggers the nail driven by
air? I mean if the ai
r
is driving the nail why do you need to "slug" it? 25 years ago the
long hours of bending and fully swing slugging to drive were bad
enough. I can imagine at 2x+ that age. I mean I'm pretty limber and
conditioned but I certainly prefer to work smarter, hence air, so
what's with the slugging hammer?

Anyone have this particular tool? Pros and cons appreciated. Jams?,
will
it
use widely available nails/cleats like Bostitch?, fully drives
fasteners?
,
anything else? I have a pancake 150psi compressor which should be
fine since it states "Maximum air operating pressu 100 PSI".

I bought the cheap menards nailer, it jammed so I returned it for
bostich. HF is good for many things, but of you have any issue an
exchange wont be worth the trouble and would stop the job, you would
just go buy a new one to keep working. If you were going to put it to
continous use immediatly then it might be different, but let it sit
and the warranty could be lost by the time you use it.

True.

Guess I could always check eBay. That's where I got my Porter Cable
roofing nailer. It was certified factory reconditioned and sold by that
authorized dealer. Came with full warranty of a new one. About half the
cost of new.

Red Green wrote:
May have to get a nailer in the future for a one house job. At that
location in another state there is no Harbor Freight outlet. May
consider buying it in advance.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=99640

The only time I used a nailer was the manual kind on some 3/4 T&G
like 25 years ago. How do these work? I see they are air but include
a "slugging hammer" as the HF description calls it. I assume hitting
the black button with the hammer is what triggers the nail driven by
air? I mean if the air is driving the nail why do you need to "slug"
it? 25 years ago the long hours of bending and fully swing slugging
to drive were bad enough. I can imagine at 2x+ that age. I mean I'm
pretty limber and conditioned but I certainly prefer to work smarter,
hence air, so what's with the slugging hammer?

Anyone have this particular tool? Pros and cons appreciated. Jams?,
will it use widely available nails/cleats like Bostitch?, fully
drives fasteners?, anything else? I have a pancake 150psi compressor
which should be fine since it states "Maximum air operating pressu
100 PSI".

1. The nail is not driven directly by air - else you'd essentially have a
pellet gun. The nailer drives a piston which in turn drives the nail.

2. PSI is one of TWO necessary qualifications; the other is CFM (cubic feet
per minute). Your compressor might not be up to the task in that it can't
provide sufficient volume of air. Even the little tire compressors that plug
into the cigarette lighter could probably reach 100psi but obviously won't
work as a nail driver. If your compressor cannot provide sufficient volume,
you might drive one nail then have to wait for a couple of minutes for the
compressor to catch up.

3. If you're worried about jamming, dependability, etc., buy two. When you
finish the job, return one for a refund. My guess is that the tool will work
swell out of the box - and deficiencies it has will be because of
wear-and-tear.

"HeyBub" wrote in
:

Red Green wrote:
May have to get a nailer in the future for a one house job. At that
location in another state there is no Harbor Freight outlet. May
consider buying it in advance.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=99640

The only time I used a nailer was the manual kind on some 3/4 T&G
like 25 years ago. How do these work? I see they are air but include
a "slugging hammer" as the HF description calls it. I assume hitting
the black button with the hammer is what triggers the nail driven by
air? I mean if the air is driving the nail why do you need to "slug"
it? 25 years ago the long hours of bending and fully swing slugging
to drive were bad enough. I can imagine at 2x+ that age. I mean I'm
pretty limber and conditioned but I certainly prefer to work smarter,
hence air, so what's with the slugging hammer?

Anyone have this particular tool? Pros and cons appreciated. Jams?,
will it use widely available nails/cleats like Bostitch?, fully
drives fasteners?, anything else? I have a pancake 150psi compressor
which should be fine since it states "Maximum air operating pressu
100 PSI".

1. The nail is not driven directly by air - else you'd essentially
have a pellet gun. The nailer drives a piston which in turn drives the
nail.

2. PSI is one of TWO necessary qualifications; the other is CFM (cubic
feet per minute). Your compressor might not be up to the task in that
it can't provide sufficient volume of air. Even the little tire
compressors that plug into the cigarette lighter could probably reach
100psi but obviously won't work as a nail driver. If your compressor
cannot provide sufficient volume, you might drive one nail then have
to wait for a couple of minutes for the compressor to catch up.

The pancake compressor I would assume sufficient. Works fine for me alone
on a roofing nailer. Maybe two pros on one at the same time might tax the
duty cycle. Also, if I recall when doing compressor research/education
prior to purchasing, SCFM is even a more accurate rating.


3. If you're worried about jamming, dependability, etc., buy two. When
you finish the job, return one for a refund. My guess is that the tool
will work swell out of the box - and deficiencies it has will be
because of wear-and-tear.

Red Green wrote:
....
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=99640

The only time I used a nailer was the manual kind on some 3/4 T&G like 25
years ago. How do these work? I see they are air but include a "slugging
hammer" as the HF description calls it. I assume hitting the black button
with the hammer is what triggers the nail driven by air? ..

Yeah...

Unless you will have plenty of time in case there does become a problem,
I'd recommend renting while you're there rather than risking the HF
possibility of the particular one you get being trash; always a
crapshoot w/ HF ime.

As for interchangeability of fasteners, one would presume likely but
again, it's taking a chance unless/until you can get verification.

If you'll have time to swap it out if it isn't satisfactory and have
some other potential use down the road, sure go for it. Otherwise, if
you intend to do the job and be done, renting locally may be the smarter
choice...

$0.02, ymmv, etc., etc., ...

OBTW, the compressor should be plenty to run any nailer. You'll want to
start at 70-75 psi max and work your way up until you find the right
pressure setting for depth for the specific flooring/subfloor, of
course. Also, you don't indicate what you're laying; if it's 3/4" t&g
I'd consider the 2" mandatory.

--

dpb wrote in
:

Red Green wrote:
...
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=99640

The only time I used a nailer was the manual kind on some 3/4 T&G
like 25 years ago. How do these work? I see they are air but include
a "slugging hammer" as the HF description calls it. I assume hitting
the black button with the hammer is what triggers the nail driven by
air? ..

Yeah...

Unless you will have plenty of time in case there does become a
problem, I'd recommend renting while you're there rather than risking
the HF possibility of the particular one you get being trash; always a
crapshoot w/ HF ime.

As for interchangeability of fasteners, one would presume likely but
again, it's taking a chance unless/until you can get verification.

If you'll have time to swap it out if it isn't satisfactory and have
some other potential use down the road, sure go for it. Otherwise, if
you intend to do the job and be done, renting locally may be the
smarter choice...

$0.02, ymmv, etc., etc., ...

OBTW, the compressor should be plenty to run any nailer. You'll want
to start at 70-75 psi max and work your way up until you find the
right pressure setting for depth for the specific flooring/subfloor,
of course. Also, you don't indicate what you're laying; if it's 3/4"
t&g I'd consider the 2" mandatory.

--


Thanks for the input.

It's a future project and just doing some way ahead research. The
flooring I will be using is still in tree form I suspect. Most likely it
will be 3/4 t&g. Wood type unknown.