I'm permanently removing a door. How do I fill the recesses that the
hinges fitted into? They are about 1/8" deep by 3.25 x 1.25". They will
be painted. Can't just smear it with wood filler, because I'm also
trying to get a sharp corner at the 1/4" reveal at the casing.

On the other side of the door, I have to fill in the deep holes required
by the deadbolt and doorknob latches. Can't use a dowel for the deadbolt
latch because it's like a big circle with flat sides. On second thought,
maybe I should use a large 1.5" dowel and sand the sides to the 1" width
of the hole. Then just glue or nail in in place and use wood filler to
make everything flush before sanding and painting.

Thanks,

Ray

On May 18, 10:36*pm, Ray K wrote:
I'm permanently removing a door. How do I fill the recesses that the
hinges fitted into? They are about 1/8" deep by 3.25 x 1.25". They will
be painted. Can't just smear it with wood filler, because I'm also
trying to get a sharp corner at the 1/4" reveal at the casing.

On the other side of the door, I have to fill in the deep holes required
by the deadbolt and doorknob latches. Can't use a dowel for the deadbolt
latch because it's like a big circle with flat sides. On second thought,
maybe I should use a large 1.5" dowel and sand the sides to the 1" width
of the hole. Then just glue or nail in in place and use wood filler to
make everything flush before sanding and painting.

Thanks,

Ray

If it is to be painted, sawdust and wood glue mixed to a paste will
fill in and stick, just wait a few days for it to really set up before
sanding it down.

On 5/18/2009 8:51 PM hr(bob) spake thus:

On May 18, 10:36 pm, Ray K wrote:
I'm permanently removing a door. How do I fill the recesses that the
hinges fitted into? They are about 1/8" deep by 3.25 x 1.25". They will
be painted. Can't just smear it with wood filler, because I'm also
trying to get a sharp corner at the 1/4" reveal at the casing.

On the other side of the door, I have to fill in the deep holes required
by the deadbolt and doorknob latches. Can't use a dowel for the deadbolt
latch because it's like a big circle with flat sides. On second thought,
maybe I should use a large 1.5" dowel and sand the sides to the 1" width
of the hole. Then just glue or nail in in place and use wood filler to
make everything flush before sanding and painting.

If it is to be painted, sawdust and wood glue mixed to a paste will
fill in and stick, just wait a few days for it to really set up before
sanding it down.

Yuck.

You could do it that way; you could also do it right. Cut wood pieces to
fill the mortises. Glue them in, sand down flush, fill any gaps with
filler, sand again, then paint.

A little more work; a much better result.


--
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism

On May 18, 8:36*pm, Ray K wrote:
I'm permanently removing a door. How do I fill the recesses that the
hinges fitted into? They are about 1/8" deep by 3.25 x 1.25". They will
be painted. Can't just smear it with wood filler, because I'm also
trying to get a sharp corner at the 1/4" reveal at the casing.

On the other side of the door, I have to fill in the deep holes required
by the deadbolt and doorknob latches. Can't use a dowel for the deadbolt
latch because it's like a big circle with flat sides. On second thought,
maybe I should use a large 1.5" dowel and sand the sides to the 1" width
of the hole. Then just glue or nail in in place and use wood filler to
make everything flush before sanding and painting.

Thanks,

Ray

Bondo or an epoxy structural repair product (like abatron.com
WoodEpox); once cured either can easily be worked like wood

or

SIKA Sikadur AnchorFix #3 (10oz standard caulking gun form factor)
available at SoCal Home Depot's

you have to let it set up a bit so you can form it and have it hold
its shape.

AnchorFix #1 sets up VERY fast but its "sanded" so its a bit harder to
get smooth.

http://www.sikaconstruction.com/con/...-anchoring.htm

cheers
Bob

On May 18, 11:36*pm, Ray K wrote:
I'm permanently removing a door. How do I fill the recesses that the
hinges fitted into? They are about 1/8" deep by 3.25 x 1.25". They will
be painted. Can't just smear it with wood filler, because I'm also
trying to get a sharp corner at the 1/4" reveal at the casing.

On the other side of the door, I have to fill in the deep holes required
by the deadbolt and doorknob latches. Can't use a dowel for the deadbolt
latch because it's like a big circle with flat sides. On second thought,
maybe I should use a large 1.5" dowel and sand the sides to the 1" width
of the hole. Then just glue or nail in in place and use wood filler to
make everything flush before sanding and painting.

Bondo. You can get sharp corners with Bondo. Use a strip of
something taped to the casing to give you the reveal, sand the Bondo
until it is smooth and matches up.

R

Ray K wrote:
I'm permanently removing a door. How do I fill the recesses that the
hinges fitted into? They are about 1/8" deep by 3.25 x 1.25". They
will be painted. Can't just smear it with wood filler, because I'm
also trying to get a sharp corner at the 1/4" reveal at the casing.

On the other side of the door, I have to fill in the deep holes
required by the deadbolt and doorknob latches. Can't use a dowel for
the deadbolt latch because it's like a big circle with flat sides. On
second thought, maybe I should use a large 1.5" dowel and sand the
sides to the 1" width of the hole. Then just glue or nail in in place
and use wood filler to make everything flush before sanding and
painting.

Bondo

dadiOH

Ray K wrote:
I'm permanently removing a door. How do I fill the recesses that the
hinges fitted into? They are about 1/8" deep by 3.25 x 1.25". They will
be painted. Can't just smear it with wood filler, because I'm also
trying to get a sharp corner at the 1/4" reveal at the casing.

On the other side of the door, I have to fill in the deep holes required
by the deadbolt and doorknob latches. Can't use a dowel for the deadbolt
latch because it's like a big circle with flat sides. On second thought,
maybe I should use a large 1.5" dowel and sand the sides to the 1" width
of the hole. Then just glue or nail in in place and use wood filler to
make everything flush before sanding and painting.

Thanks,

Ray

I think Norm Abrams calls it a dutchman. Square up the hole to be filled
with your sharpest chisel, and glue in a thin slice of similar wood,
fitted as tightly as you can. Make the slice slightly thicker, and if it
is on an edge, slightly wider than the hole.When the glue has set up
hard (patience is called for), plane, sand, and trim till the glued in
block is flush. Do it well, and no putty is needed, and once primed and
painted, it vanishes. Had to do that on a new exterior door frame down
at my other house over Xmas last year. Came out great. Putty alone is
unlikely to work- even if you get it smooth, it expands and contracts at
different rates than the wood, and usually cracks. I have seen bondo
used, but the results were not as good as the traditional method. No
need to fill the deadbolt hole itself unless you want to, just fill the
square hole where the striker plate went.

--
aem sends...