Inside the mini junction box on the Dayton motor for my whole house
fan there are two types of connectors. One is a nut on a post. The
other is a spade lug. There is a knockout for a cable clamp.

How do I connect to these? Do I crimp the appropriate connectors onto
the wires in NM cable? For crimping connectors onto wire, it seems
like flexible wire would be better - not the solid wire in NM.

Thanks for any help.

On 4/29/2009 8:38 AM Mitch spake thus:

Inside the mini junction box on the Dayton motor for my whole house
fan there are two types of connectors. One is a nut on a post. The
other is a spade lug. There is a knockout for a cable clamp.

How do I connect to these? Do I crimp the appropriate connectors onto
the wires in NM cable? For crimping connectors onto wire, it seems
like flexible wire would be better - not the solid wire in NM.

Either solid or stranded wire should work OK with crimped connectors.

What I'd do is solder the connectors onto the wires so I know they're
not going to loosen sometime in the future. Call me paranoid, but I just
don't trust connections that rely only on the holding power of a little
bit of sheet metal to work.

Soldering after crimping should take all of 5 minutes.


--
Save the Planet
Kill Yourself

- motto of the Church of Euthanasia (http://www.churchofeuthanasia.org/)

In article ,
David Nebenzahl wrote:

On 4/29/2009 8:38 AM Mitch spake thus:

Inside the mini junction box on the Dayton motor for my whole house
fan there are two types of connectors. One is a nut on a post. The
other is a spade lug. There is a knockout for a cable clamp.

How do I connect to these? Do I crimp the appropriate connectors onto
the wires in NM cable? For crimping connectors onto wire, it seems
like flexible wire would be better - not the solid wire in NM.

Either solid or stranded wire should work OK with crimped connectors.

What I'd do is solder the connectors onto the wires so I know they're
not going to loosen sometime in the future. Call me paranoid, but I just
don't trust connections that rely only on the holding power of a little
bit of sheet metal to work.

Soldering after crimping should take all of 5 minutes.

I'm surprised you would advocate that, David, since you seem to know a
bit about electronics.

Soldering a crimp connector is the quickest, easiest way to make it less
reliable. It makes the connection brittle, therefore much more prone to
vibration induced failure.

David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 4/29/2009 8:38 AM Mitch spake thus:

Inside the mini junction box on the Dayton motor for my whole house
fan there are two types of connectors. One is a nut on a post. The
other is a spade lug. There is a knockout for a cable clamp.

How do I connect to these? Do I crimp the appropriate connectors onto
the wires in NM cable? For crimping connectors onto wire, it seems
like flexible wire would be better - not the solid wire in NM.

Either solid or stranded wire should work OK with crimped connectors.

What I'd do is solder the connectors onto the wires so I know they're
not going to loosen sometime in the future. Call me paranoid, but I just
don't trust connections that rely only on the holding power of a little
bit of sheet metal to work.

Soldering after crimping should take all of 5 minutes.


Hmm,
Solder? Then it becomes same as using a solid wire which can crack and
break.

On Apr 29, 8:56*pm, Smitty Two wrote:

snip

I'm surprised you would advocate that, David, since you seem to know a
bit about electronics.

Soldering a crimp connector is the quickest, easiest way to make it less
reliable. It makes the connection brittle, therefore much more prone to
vibration induced failure.

Boy racers have known for years about the hazards of soldered crimps.
Any book on race car preparation (Carroll Smiths, e.g.) will have a
rant on the topic. Odds are, there are MIL specs and aircraft
techniques in the literature as well.

Joe