fwfrog had written this in response to
http://www.thestuccocompany.com/main...on-361653-.htm
:
After much debating, I think we're going to go with company #2 and the
R-49 of blown-in fiberglass. I was finally able to get accurate quotes on
the number of inches and the total cost from the second company ($698 for
19.5 inches of blown-in fiberglass). As someone guessed earlier, with
this second company, the cost per inch did indeed drop as you moved up
from R-38 to R-49.

Here's my final question...

How important is it to have our home "weatherized" before we blow in the
fiberglass insulation?

As many people have mentioned, it's a good idea to "fix" anything before
the new insulation is blow-in. Although we don't need to do anything with
our electrical wiring, I wondered if this logic would also apply to
sealing leaks in the attic?

Since we're not getting the blown-in foam insulation, I know the
fiberglass won't "seal" any leaks. Would we be doing ourselves a
disservice by not having someone come out to "weather-proof" our house
first? We're probably losing more energy through old doors, windows, and
the chimney than anything. (We had a new A/C unit put in not even 2 years
ago, so I'd think that the duct work would be solid.)

I'm not sure what leaks might be present in the attic - but I didn't want
to go about this insulation process in the wrong order, if I could help it.

Thanks again!


##-----------------------------------------------##
Delivered via http://www.thestuccocompany.com/
Building Construction and Maintenance Forum
Web and RSS access to your favorite newsgroup -
alt.home.repair - 346357 messages and counting!
##-----------------------------------------------##

On Mar 23, 9:55*pm, (fwfrog)
wrote:
fwfrog had written this in response tohttp://www.thestuccocompany.com/maintenance/Re-Insulation-Question-36...
*:
After much debating, I think we're going to go with company #2 and the
R-49 of blown-in fiberglass. *I was finally able to get accurate quotes on
the number of inches and the total cost from the second company ($698 for
19.5 inches of blown-in fiberglass). *As someone guessed earlier, with
this second company, the cost per inch did indeed drop as you moved up
from R-38 to R-49.

Here's my final question...

How important is it to have our home "weatherized" before we blow in the
fiberglass insulation?

As many people have mentioned, it's a good idea to "fix" anything before
the new insulation is blow-in. *Although we don't need to do anything with
our electrical wiring, I wondered if this logic would also apply to
sealing leaks in the attic?

Since we're not getting the blown-in foam insulation, I know the
fiberglass won't "seal" any leaks. *Would we be doing ourselves a
disservice by not having someone come out to "weather-proof" our house
first? *We're probably losing more energy through old doors, windows, and
the chimney than anything. *(We had a new A/C unit put in not even 2 years
ago, so I'd think that the duct work would be solid.)

I'm not sure what leaks might be present in the attic - but I didn't want
to go about this insulation process in the wrong order, if I could help it.

It's very important to seal off all the "bypass" openings in the
attic. That means all the plumbing that comes through the ceiling, the
kitchen stove vent hood, the furnace vent, etc.

For the furnace vent, pick up some aluminum sheeting at the home
center and cut it around the furnace vent. Seal the it to the actual
vent using intumescent sealer (pick it up in the caulk section). Use
intumescent foam to seal all the plumbing openings and around each
electrical box the punctures the ceiling.

Intumescent foam will not burn up in a fire. It actually expands when
heat is applied. Code requires that type of foam and caulk.