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Default Septic tank cover

I just had my septic tank pumped and when they took the lid off it
cracked in three pieces. They put two of the pieces back on and told
me I would have to take care of it. The lid is 23" square on top and
tapered. I can not find one and have two choices. Either make a form
and pour a new one, or make a cover out of wolmanized wood larger than
the the hold and wrap it in 6 mill poly. Just wondering what the
opinions are of making one out of wood and setting it on top. I would
make it out of tong & grove 2 x 6 treated wood and wrap it in
plastic. Will this work and be OK?


Thanks,
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On Sat, 14 Feb 2009 15:50:52 -0800 (PST),
" wrote:

I just had my septic tank pumped and when they took the lid off it
cracked in three pieces. They put two of the pieces back on and told
me I would have to take care of it. The lid is 23" square on top and
tapered. I can not find one and have two choices. Either make a form
and pour a new one, or make a cover out of wolmanized wood larger than
the the hold and wrap it in 6 mill poly. Just wondering what the
opinions are of making one out of wood and setting it on top. I would
make it out of tong & grove 2 x 6 treated wood and wrap it in
plastic. Will this work and be OK?


Thanks,


It would probably do the job...but part of the reason they make them
out of concrete is so they are heavy enough that kids can't move them.

IIWM, I'd make a simple form and cast a new one. Put in a couple
pieces of rebar so it doesn't suffer the same fate as the first one.

HTH,

Paul F.
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Default Septic tank cover

It would probably do the job...but part of the reason they make them
out of concrete is so they are heavy enough that kids can't move them.



It will be covered with 20" of dirt, so I won't need to worry about
anyone moving it.


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Default Septic tank cover

In article , Paul Franklin wrote:

It would probably do the job...but part of the reason they make them
out of concrete is so they are heavy enough that kids can't move them.

IIWM, I'd make a simple form and cast a new one. Put in a couple
pieces of rebar so it doesn't suffer the same fate as the first one.


And put a ring or eyebolt in it while the concrete is still wet, to make it
easier to pull up.
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On Feb 14, 5:50*pm, "
wrote:
I just had my septic tank pumped and when they took the lid off it
cracked in three pieces. *They put two of the pieces back on and told
me I would have to take care of it. *The lid is 23" square on top and
tapered. *I can not find one and have two choices. *Either make a form
and pour a new one, or make a cover out of wolmanized wood larger than
the the hold and wrap it in 6 mill poly. *Just wondering what the
opinions are of making one out of wood and setting it on top. *I would
make it out of tong & grove 2 x 6 treated wood and wrap it in
plastic. *Will this work and be OK?

Thanks,


Here is what I did in a similar situation: I made min in position on
the tank.
cut a piece of 3/4 plywood the the size / shape of the tank, used the
dirt smoothed for the form,
made a rebar frame so it would be 2 times as strong as necessary &
left loops to protrude to lift it by,
set a round washtub in the middle with a T handle of rebar sticking
up. I poured the lid, & also filled the washtub.
The result was just professional, The wash tub was pulled out to leave
a clean looking cleanout hole, the contents made the perfect plug.
I had it pumped a couple of years later, they just took a bar and
broke out the plywood under the cleanout hole.
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Default Septic tank cover

On Feb 14, 6:50*pm, "
wrote:
I just had my septic tank pumped and when they took the lid off it
cracked in three pieces. *They put two of the pieces back on and told
me I would have to take care of it. *The lid is 23" square on top and
tapered. *I can not find one and have two choices. *Either make a form
and pour a new one, or make a cover out of wolmanized wood larger than
the the hold and wrap it in 6 mill poly. *Just wondering what the
opinions are of making one out of wood and setting it on top. *I would
make it out of tong & grove 2 x 6 treated wood and wrap it in
plastic. *Will this work and be OK?

Thanks,


I'd call around, maybe to septic people, and find where to buy one.
The people that pumped your septic should have helped you in either
getting a new cover or fixing the old. I would not use them again. I
did some work on repairing a box past my septic tank where the second
field was switched and there was a local concrete caster that made
tanks and all concrete stuff connected with it. Also, many years ago,
when septic was first pumped, I had a concrete ring and cap put in for
easy access rather than have to dig it up each time. It's in an area
not visible when you pass the house but if need be there are ways to
disguise.
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Default Septic tank cover


"George" wrote in message

Usually the tanks are locally made because of their weight. I would bet
you could get a replacement if you called the couple places in your area
that make tanks.


That would be my suggestion also. Start with the guy closest to you and work
out. Look under "concrete products" in the Yellow Pages.




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Perry525 had written this in response to
http://www.thestuccocompany.com/main...er-359510-.htm
:

Perry
-------------------------------------
JimmyDahGeek@DON'T_SPAM_ME_gma wrote:


I just had my septic tank pumped and when they took the lid off it
cracked in three pieces. They put two of the pieces back on and told
me I would have to take care of it. The lid is 23" square on top
and
tapered. I can not find one and have two choices. Either make a form
and pour a new one, or make a cover out of wolmanized wood larger than
the the hold and wrap it in 6 mill poly. Just wondering what the
opinions are of making one out of wood and setting it on top. I would
make it out of tong & grove 2 x 6 treated wood and wrap it in
plastic. Will this work and be OK?



Thanks,


When thinking about a new lid, give consideration to, checking how full
the tank is and when it will next require emptying and how easy it is to
find and move.
Being able to check the height of the solids within the tank and therefore
if it needs emptying this year or in ten years time is always handy and it
saves money and trouble. (You only pay to empty it -when it really needs
to be emptied and before it backs up and causes trouble.)
Have a ten foot pole handy that you can poke through the crust and down
through the water and feel the top of the solids, it feels spongy.
When the solids are within 12 inches of the bottom of the outlet "T" only
then does the tank need to be emptied.
If you check the tank twice a year, once in the spring and again in late
summer, you will see that the tank fills during the winter and during the
summer when the microbes are more active with the summer heat, it goes
down.
The anaerobic process works best at 97f, so a tank that is in the full
summer sun, fills slower than one that's in the shade.
Placing a green house over the septic tank to help keep it as warm as
possible all year round is a good idea.




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The contractor found our long-untouched septic tank by probing around
with a thin rigid rod. With a back-hoe he slickly dug down and found
the cover in place, but cracked. He suggested we install a short
vertical collar of plastic culvert with a plastic cap screwed on the
top at ground level.
The pumping people supplied the 20"-long culvert (my measurement), the
plastic cap, and the stainless screws for $40. Forty-five minutes
later I had glued the culvert/collar over the opening of the concrete
tank, screwed the cap on top to keep curious folks out, packed soil
around it, and sprinkled some grass seed. Fast, durable, inexpensive,
just slightly visible after a year, and accessible for maintenance. My
neighbor put a ring of flat rocks and some shrubs around his.


On Feb 14, 6:50*pm, "
wrote:
I just had my septic tank pumped and when they took the lid off it
cracked in three pieces.

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