Absolutely right. If you solder them with the valve open, they
won't seal tight when closed.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"nefletch" wrote in message
...
Quite often I see a question about
soldering a ball valve. Without question
the ideal way is to use male adapters, and
use a threaded valve. But this isn't
always easy to do. I actually wrote, and
asked Nibco, one of the larger makers of
ball valves, the proper way to solder a
copper ball valve. I will attach their
letter, but it states to close the valve, and
then wrap a cool rag around the body of
the valve, and solder.

"DanG" wrote in message
...
Absolutely right. If you solder them with the valve open, they won't seal
tight when closed.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"nefletch" wrote in message
...
Quite often I see a question about
soldering a ball valve. Without question
the ideal way is to use male adapters, and
use a threaded valve. But this isn't
always easy to do. I actually wrote, and
asked Nibco, one of the larger makers of
ball valves, the proper way to solder a
copper ball valve. I will attach their
letter, but it states to close the valve, and
then wrap a cool rag around the body of
the valve, and solder.


I've soldered thousands of them open and closed never use a wet rag around
them unless I'm brazing "close" to them The biggest problem I've
encountered is lose packing nuts causing a drip. One time the quality of the
valves was so bad we tightened all the packing before installing them.

"


Quite often I see a question about
soldering a ball valve. Without question
the ideal way is to use male adapters, and
use a threaded valve. But this isn't
always easy to do. I actually wrote, and
asked Nibco, one of the larger makers of
ball valves, the proper way to solder a
copper ball valve. I will attach their
letter, but it states to close the valve, and
then wrap a cool rag around the body of
the valve, and solder.


I've soldered thousands of them open and closed never use a wet rag
around them unless I'm brazing "close" to them The biggest problem I've
encountered is lose packing nuts causing a drip. One time the quality of
the valves was so bad we tightened all the packing before installing them.

I have to agree with you, as I have soldered hundreds both closed
and open, and without a wet rag..... I just thought I'd pass on what
the valve company says about the closed part....if a person has
done a lot of plumbing, they know how to get it done quickly,
as a less experienced person may tend to keep the torch on for
5 minutes, and really warp things badly

On Fri, 13 Feb 2009 10:02:01 -0700, "nefletch"
wrote:


"


Quite often I see a question about
soldering a ball valve. Without question
the ideal way is to use male adapters, and
use a threaded valve. But this isn't
always easy to do. I actually wrote, and
asked Nibco, one of the larger makers of
ball valves, the proper way to solder a
copper ball valve. I will attach their
letter, but it states to close the valve, and
then wrap a cool rag around the body of
the valve, and solder.


I've soldered thousands of them open and closed never use a wet rag
around them unless I'm brazing "close" to them The biggest problem I've
encountered is lose packing nuts causing a drip. One time the quality of
the valves was so bad we tightened all the packing before installing them.

I have to agree with you, as I have soldered hundreds both closed
and open, and without a wet rag..... I just thought I'd pass on what
the valve company says about the closed part....if a person has
done a lot of plumbing, they know how to get it done quickly,
as a less experienced person may tend to keep the torch on for
5 minutes, and really warp things badly


I've found the torch used is the biggest factor. Air Acelylene is best
(pro plumber's torch) but a BernzoMatic HiSwirl "turbo torch" on MAPP
is an awful close second. Don't even attempt it with a straight mixer
torch on propane. (not enough heat - takes too long)

Just did the 3/4 inch entrance shut-off in 10 minutes (old one off,
new one on) yesterday when the city came to change the meter.

On Fri, 13 Feb 2009 05:56:48 -0600, "DanG" wrote:

Absolutely right. If you solder them with the valve open, they
won't seal tight when closed.


I soldered several of them with the valve open. None have leaked, but
I did use a wet rag, propane torch.

wrote in message
...
On Fri, 13 Feb 2009 10:02:01 -0700, "nefletch"

I've found the torch used is the biggest factor. Air Acelylene is best
(pro plumber's torch) but a BernzoMatic HiSwirl "turbo torch" on MAPP
is an awful close second. Don't even attempt it with a straight mixer
torch on propane. (not enough heat - takes too long)

Just did the 3/4 inch entrance shut-off in 10 minutes (old one off,
new one on) yesterday when the city came to change the meter.

I know for a fact my brazing/soldering skills SUCK.

When I wanted to insert a shut off valve I just got one with 3/4"
compression fittings.

Another handy tool is a shut off wrench that can cut your water off at the
water meter. Our county water department doesn't have a problem with
customers shutting off thier own water.

On Fri, 13 Feb 2009 15:30:24 -0500, "John Gilmer"
wrote:


wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 13 Feb 2009 10:02:01 -0700, "nefletch"

I've found the torch used is the biggest factor. Air Acelylene is best
(pro plumber's torch) but a BernzoMatic HiSwirl "turbo torch" on MAPP
is an awful close second. Don't even attempt it with a straight mixer
torch on propane. (not enough heat - takes too long)

Just did the 3/4 inch entrance shut-off in 10 minutes (old one off,
new one on) yesterday when the city came to change the meter.

I know for a fact my brazing/soldering skills SUCK.

When I wanted to insert a shut off valve I just got one with 3/4"
compression fittings.

Another handy tool is a shut off wrench that can cut your water off at the
water meter. Our county water department doesn't have a problem with
customers shutting off thier own water.

Except the water shutoff is at the street -an undeground "hydrant"
valve which belongs to the city - everything from there in belongs to
the homeowner - and if that 1/4 turn valve braks when YOU turn it -
YOU pay the city workers to fix it. If they break it, they fix it.

As for the compression fittings, I don't like them. They always seam
to seep, and you get white/green corrosion at the joints over time.
(but they are definitely better than a bad solder job).