On Fri, 13 Feb 2009 10:02:01 -0700, "nefletch"
wrote:


"


Quite often I see a question about
soldering a ball valve. Without question
the ideal way is to use male adapters, and
use a threaded valve. But this isn't
always easy to do. I actually wrote, and
asked Nibco, one of the larger makers of
ball valves, the proper way to solder a
copper ball valve. I will attach their
letter, but it states to close the valve, and
then wrap a cool rag around the body of
the valve, and solder.


I've soldered thousands of them open and closed never use a wet rag
around them unless I'm brazing "close" to them The biggest problem I've
encountered is lose packing nuts causing a drip. One time the quality of
the valves was so bad we tightened all the packing before installing them.

I have to agree with you, as I have soldered hundreds both closed
and open, and without a wet rag..... I just thought I'd pass on what
the valve company says about the closed part....if a person has
done a lot of plumbing, they know how to get it done quickly,
as a less experienced person may tend to keep the torch on for
5 minutes, and really warp things badly


I've found the torch used is the biggest factor. Air Acelylene is best
(pro plumber's torch) but a BernzoMatic HiSwirl "turbo torch" on MAPP
is an awful close second. Don't even attempt it with a straight mixer
torch on propane. (not enough heat - takes too long)

Just did the 3/4 inch entrance shut-off in 10 minutes (old one off,
new one on) yesterday when the city came to change the meter.