"James" wrote:

Perhaps several times a year, I will have a need to cut 2 x 4's ,

Buy a speed square for cross cutting. To rip, clamp a straight edge to the 2x4.

some trim pieces

If it's 45, the speed square will do it for you.

and perhaps some plywood.

Clamp a straight edge to the plywood and use the skill saw. You don't need a
metal edge. The factory edge on another sheet of plywood will do fine.

Because I am not really skilled
at using a skill saw, I have thought of getting a bare bones, but quality
table saw.

I think a table saw is over kill for what you describe. The good ones are
expensive and take up a lot of space. The bad ones are more aggravation than
they are worth. -- Doug

James wrote:
I am not a carpenter or even a handyman. The only kind of saw I
have owned for 25 years is a skill saw. Even with very casual use,
I am still not good at using a skill saw to cut a straight edge on a
piece of plywood or a 2 x 4 !!

Perhaps several times a year, I will have a need to cut 2 x 4's ,
some trim pieces , and perhaps some plywood. Because I am not
really skilled at using a skill saw, I have thought of getting a bare
bones, but quality table saw. Again, I just need something that
will allow me to cut boards and trim pieces and end up with a
straight cut. It doesn't have to be very high powered, or have a
lot of fancy adjustments. I guess just an adjustable fence (isn't
that what they call it........ the piece you move left and right, and
put your stock up against for cutting?) and I guess something that
adjusts the depth of a cut. I don't think I would need any angle
cutting, such as a miter saw is used for.

So, what is a recommended brand, and/or a particular saw not
exceeding $150 ? Can I get a quality one for that price ??

I am thinking of looking at Sears and Home Depot, but wanted to get
comments here first.

There are dozens I see free or cheap on craigslist or freecycle every month. How
about a used saw. Old Craftsmans are very common.

"Douglas Johnson" wrote in message
...
"James" wrote:

Perhaps several times a year, I will have a need to cut 2 x 4's ,

Buy a speed square for cross cutting. To rip, clamp a straight edge to
the 2x4.

some trim pieces

If it's 45, the speed square will do it for you.

and perhaps some plywood.

Clamp a straight edge to the plywood and use the skill saw. You don't
need a
metal edge. The factory edge on another sheet of plywood will do fine.

Because I am not really skilled
at using a skill saw, I have thought of getting a bare bones, but quality
table saw.

I think a table saw is over kill for what you describe. The good ones are
expensive and take up a lot of space. The bad ones are more aggravation
than
they are worth. -- Doug

BS , I've used my 10 inch Ryobi table saw that came with a stand for $99 to
rip plywood , 1X pine , 2X4's , ect. and it works just fine as long as you
don't force it...It might not be as fast as the big dollar ones but it gets
the job done..We aren't talking about using it for everyday construction use
or ripping 3/4 Birch plywood all day in a cabinett making shop..IT IS FOR
OCCASIONAL HOMEOWNER USE which is what this thread is SUPPOSED to be
about....I have a Ryobi 10 compound miter saw that I paid $75 for that
worked just fine trimming out my new windows as well...When not in use I set
the miter saw on top of the table saw and put them in the corner of my
garage and they don't take up much space and you don't need 3 people to move
them around either...They're perfect for what they were designed to do...

HeyBub wrote:

And, speaking of Home Depot's board cutting policy, does anyone own
one of those saws HD uses? The kind where the circular saw blade
moves up and down on a stationary, vertical piece of wood? I'd think
that machine would take up considerable less space than a table saw
('course you'd lose wall space...).

You have a good HD. The ones here have a saw that rotates and they shove
the panel through horizontally for rips. Nothing holds the top piece up as
it is going along, so accuracy isn't its forte.

I had a friend in Honolulu with a vertical one...set up the panel, position
things, push button, full length cushioned clams on both sides of the cut
line clamp down, saw travels down on steel tubes, returns to top after cut,
clamps unclamp. A *wonderful* machine. No idea of the cost, several
thousand I am sure.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"benick" wrote in message

BS , I've used my 10 inch Ryobi table saw that came with a stand for $99
to rip plywood , 1X pine , 2X4's , ect. and it works just fine as long as
you don't force it...It might not be as fast as the big dollar ones but it
gets the job done..We aren't talking about using it for everyday
construction use or ripping 3/4 Birch plywood all day in a cabinett making
shop..IT IS FOR OCCASIONAL HOMEOWNER USE which is what this thread is
SUPPOSED to be about

If the saw worked for you great. That does not mean it is as good as the
bigger, more expensive saws. I had a cheap Craftsman saw and built some
nice projects with it. After a time I found the shortcomings and bought a
Delta contractors with a Beisemeyer fence. saw. It is a vast improvement.
It comes down to your needs and expectations. And the blade.

"benick" wrote in message
. ..

"Douglas Johnson" wrote in message
...
"James" wrote:

Perhaps several times a year, I will have a need to cut 2 x 4's ,

Buy a speed square for cross cutting. To rip, clamp a straight edge to
the 2x4.

some trim pieces

If it's 45, the speed square will do it for you.

and perhaps some plywood.

Clamp a straight edge to the plywood and use the skill saw. You don't
need a
metal edge. The factory edge on another sheet of plywood will do fine.

Because I am not really skilled
at using a skill saw, I have thought of getting a bare bones, but quality
table saw.

I think a table saw is over kill for what you describe. The good ones
are
expensive and take up a lot of space. The bad ones are more aggravation
than
they are worth. -- Doug

BS , I've used my 10 inch Ryobi table saw that came with a stand for $99
to rip plywood , 1X pine , 2X4's , ect. and it works just fine as long as
you don't force it...It might not be as fast as the big dollar ones but it
gets the job done..We aren't talking about using it for everyday
construction use or ripping 3/4 Birch plywood all day in a cabinett making
shop..IT IS FOR OCCASIONAL HOMEOWNER USE which is what this thread is
SUPPOSED to be about....I have a Ryobi 10 compound miter saw that I paid
$75 for that worked just fine trimming out my new windows as well...When
not in use I set the miter saw on top of the table saw and put them in the
corner of my garage and they don't take up much space and you don't need 3
people to move them around either...They're perfect for what they were
designed to do...

Amen, brother.

benick wrote:

"Douglas Johnson" wrote in message
...
"James" wrote:

Perhaps several times a year, I will have a need to cut 2 x 4's ,

Buy a speed square for cross cutting. To rip, clamp a straight edge
to the 2x4.

some trim pieces

If it's 45, the speed square will do it for you.

and perhaps some plywood.

Clamp a straight edge to the plywood and use the skill saw. You don't
need a
metal edge. The factory edge on another sheet of plywood will do fine.

Because I am not really skilled
at using a skill saw, I have thought of getting a bare bones, but
quality
table saw.

I think a table saw is over kill for what you describe. The good ones
are
expensive and take up a lot of space. The bad ones are more
aggravation than
they are worth. -- Doug

BS , I've used my 10 inch Ryobi table saw that came with a stand for
$99 to rip plywood , 1X pine , 2X4's , ect. and it works just fine as
long as you don't force it...It might not be as fast as the big dollar
ones but it gets the job done..We aren't talking about using it for
everyday construction use or ripping 3/4 Birch plywood all day in a
cabinett making shop..IT IS FOR OCCASIONAL HOMEOWNER USE which is what
this thread is SUPPOSED to be about....I have a Ryobi 10 compound miter
saw that I paid $75 for that worked just fine trimming out my new
windows as well...When not in use I set the miter saw on top of the
table saw and put them in the corner of my garage


I'm out of corners! The one nook in my garage where a non-folded-up
table saw could be parked, is where I have to park the snow blower 5
months a year. (Unless I wanna traipse through drifts out to the garden
shed every time I want to use it.)

Not to mention, damp garages are hell on table saws, even if you keep
the table well-waxed.

--
aem sends...

On Sun, 8 Feb 2009 12:46:38 -0600, "HeyBub"
wrote:

-snip-

And, speaking of Home Depot's board cutting policy, does anyone own one of
those saws HD uses? The kind where the circular saw blade moves up and down
on a stationary, vertical piece of wood? I'd think that machine would take
up considerable less space than a table saw ('course you'd lose wall
space...).

Don't own one, but I've thought of building one-
http://plansnow.com/dn3087.html

If I was in the OP's shoes I might consider building one for the big
stuff- and getting that miter saw for the fine things.

Takes up room- but as someone mentioned above, it lends itself to
being one side of a wood rack.

Jim

On Feb 7, 9:40*pm, "James" wrote:
I am not a carpenter or even a handyman. * The only kind of saw I have owned
for 25 years is a skill saw. * *Even with very casual use, I am still not
good at using a skill saw to cut a straight edge on a piece of plywood or a
2 x 4 *!!

Perhaps several times a year, *I will have *a need to cut 2 x 4's , *some
trim pieces , and *perhaps some plywood. * Because I am not really skilled
at using a skill saw, I have thought of getting a bare bones, but quality
table saw. * Again, I just need something that will allow me to cut boards
and trim pieces and end up with a straight cut. * It doesn't have to be very
high powered, or have a lot of fancy adjustments. *I guess just an
adjustable fence (isn't that what they call it........ the piece you move
left and right, and put your stock up against for cutting?) * and I guess
something that adjusts the depth of a cut. *I don't think I would need any
angle cutting, such as a miter saw is used for.

So, what is a recommended brand, and/or a particular saw not exceeding $150
? * *Can I get a quality one for that price ??

I am thinking of looking at Sears and Home Depot, but wanted to get comments
here first.

Thanks for any advice !!

James

James I use a speed square a a sawguide to cross-cut boards and a long
saw guide for plywood. I have a table saw but most often use these. I
think the circular saw with a saw guilde works better than the table
saw.

Jimmie

aemeijers wrote:


I'm out of corners! The one nook in my garage where a non-folded-up
table saw could be parked, is where I have to park the snow blower 5
months a year. (Unless I wanna traipse through drifts out to the
garden shed every time I want to use it.)

Not to mention, damp garages are hell on table saws, even if you keep
the table well-waxed.

Heh! Use the saw to build a shed into which you can put the snow-blower, the
lawn-mower, the auxilary generator, and other assorted things. That will
free up space for the tools.

Don't forget to include a cat-door so the critters can get out of the
elements.

On Sat, 7 Feb 2009 21:40:41 -0500, James wrote:

I am not a carpenter or even a handyman. The only kind of saw I have owned
for 25 years is a skill saw. Even with very casual use, I am still not
good at using a skill saw to cut a straight edge on a piece of plywood or a
2 x 4 !!

Perhaps several times a year, I will have a need to cut 2 x 4's , some
trim pieces , and perhaps some plywood. Because I am not really skilled
at using a skill saw, I have thought of getting a bare bones, but quality
table saw. Again, I just need something that will allow me to cut boards
and trim pieces and end up with a straight cut. It doesn't have to be very
high powered, or have a lot of fancy adjustments. I guess just an
adjustable fence (isn't that what they call it........ the piece you move
left and right, and put your stock up against for cutting?) and I guess
something that adjusts the depth of a cut. I don't think I would need any
angle cutting, such as a miter saw is used for.

So, what is a recommended brand, and/or a particular saw not exceeding $150
? Can I get a quality one for that price ??

I am thinking of looking at Sears and Home Depot, but wanted to get comments
here first.

Thanks for any advice !!

James

Trim pieces would best be cut with a miter saw. Cutting a 2x4 is best done
with a miter saw, ripping with a table saw. Plywood with a table saw.
However, from your description I would not consider a table saw as you do
not seem to have the skills to safely use a table saw. Table saws are not
good for cutting trim pieces to length. Table saws are for cutting widths,
not lengths.

Before buying something I would seriously consider taking a shop class at
your local community college to learn what the different saws are for and
how to safely use them.

"HeyBub" wrote in message
...
Michael Dobony wrote:
On Sat, 7 Feb 2009 21:40:41 -0500, James wrote:


Before buying something I would seriously consider taking a shop
class at your local community college to learn what the different
saws are for and how to safely use them.

What's to know?
1. Don't put soft things in the blade.
2. Stand to the side so kick-backs don't de-nut you.
3. If you're a wimp, wear eye protection.
4. If you're a pussy, wear ear protection.

LOL. On #3 you might add "If OSHA is looking.

On #2 someone should point out that Douglas Fir is probably the #1 kickback
culprit and a suit of armor might be appropriate under certain
circumstances.



Everything, and I mean EVERYTHING, you need to know about safety can be
found in the 52-page safety instructions that come with the saw.

Ulysses wrote:
Before buying something I would seriously consider taking a shop
class at your local community college to learn what the different
saws are for and how to safely use them.

What's to know?
1. Don't put soft things in the blade.
2. Stand to the side so kick-backs don't de-nut you.
3. If you're a wimp, wear eye protection.
4. If you're a pussy, wear ear protection.

LOL. On #3 you might add "If OSHA is looking.

On #2 someone should point out that Douglas Fir is probably the #1
kickback culprit and a suit of armor might be appropriate under
certain circumstances.


At least a tin cup.

In my shop I wear an apron. It's lead-lined and came from an x-ray lab. I
think it's bulletproof.

Just to be on the safer side, I'm going to line it with home-made ballistic
armor, that is, scraps of engineered laminate flooring.

Still, I see people on TV get ready to use a power tool, something like a
battery-operated screw-driver or an electric spoon, and they suit themselves
up like they were off to train attack dogs.

What's the worst that could happen?

As Dilios said: "Hardly, my lord, it's just an eye. The gods saw fit to
grace me with a spare."

I am thinking of looking at Sears and Home Depot, but wanted to get
comments
here first.

First, depending on where you are..see if there is a WWW.CRAIGSLIST.ORG
website nearby and get the saw through "TOOLS" on the site for perhaps HALF
of what you'll pay for a new one at Sears or HD. Go look at several
tablesaws and see what the market has out there before you buy. Have the
seller crosscut and rip a piece of 2 X 4 or 2 X 6 for you and see how they
do.

Isn't there anyone knowledgeable and handy THERE that you can ask to go
along with you when you go saw shopping ?
If not, I've had good service from DELTA table saws starting from an old
Rockwell Beaver 9" with a 1/2 hp motor (worked fine crosscutting) could
barely rip (lengthwise) a "2 by" piece of lumber. I ve upgraded to one of
the best saws on the market now, a 10" 3(real) HP Delta UNISAW with a
Biesemeyer fence. The fence alone is worth $ 300-400 ..its a beauty but you
don't need something like that. .

Second, BEWARE when comparing various saws motor HP that Sears commonly uses
'max" HP "DEVELOPED" which is the power draw/created JUST BEFORE the motor
is driven to fail...Divide the HP number they use in half to get a
realistic number. Ie. their "develops 1HP" motor is really a 1/2 hp
motor.

Finally, a lot depends on the quality of the blade. Get a good name brand
(not Harbor Freight Tools etc) carbide tip blade, up to 40 tooth for
'general' work and make sure you don't cut any staples, screws or nails in
the lumber.

Good luck
R

"James" wrote in message
...
I am not a carpenter or even a handyman. The only kind of saw I have
owned
for 25 years is a skill saw. Even with very casual use, I am still not
good at using a skill saw to cut a straight edge on a piece of plywood or
a
2 x 4 !!

Perhaps several times a year, I will have a need to cut 2 x 4's , some
trim pieces , and perhaps some plywood. Because I am not really skilled
at using a skill saw, I have thought of getting a bare bones, but quality
table saw. Again, I just need something that will allow me to cut boards
and trim pieces and end up with a straight cut. It doesn't have to be
very
high powered, or have a lot of fancy adjustments. I guess just an
adjustable fence (isn't that what they call it........ the piece you move
left and right, and put your stock up against for cutting?) and I guess
something that adjusts the depth of a cut. I don't think I would need any
angle cutting, such as a miter saw is used for.

So, what is a recommended brand, and/or a particular saw not exceeding
$150
? Can I get a quality one for that price ??

I am thinking of looking at Sears and Home Depot, but wanted to get
comments
here first.

Thanks for any advice !!

James



"SKIL" with one "L" is a brand name. Commonly seen at construction sites
with other brands as well like Porter-Cable. Hand-held electric circular
saw is probably what you mean, and, may even be made by SKIL. Unless you're
doing something that requires good fit and appearance of cuts, such a saw is
just fine. It all boils down to good measurements, following the measured
lines made without cutting that line. Not forcing the cut too quickly. A
very lightweight saw may try to move left and right indiscriminantly. A
dull blade takes longer and may scorch the wood. Using the right blade also
helps such as when to use a cross-cut blade, a combination blade, and a
ripping blade.

As another poster stated, the most important part of a table saw is the
table. Actually, I'm speaking of a compound miter saw. A table saw is very
limited in lengthy cross-cuts, excellent for plywood and rips. It must
accomodate size of lumber, and must be rock solid when using the saw.
There are some reversals needed in some cuts, like a hip rafter, that some
compound miter saws can't accomodate on both sides of the cut. The bevel
only swings one way. Can be done, but not very intuitive. A 10" compound
miter saw with laser sounds adequate for most of what you're speaking of.
Get one with the laser that runs off the AC, not replaceable batteries. A
genuine table saw is best for ripping plywood and other lumber.
--
Dave

"dpb" wrote in message ...
Robert Neville wrote:
...
If you plan to rip any wood, you'd still need a table saw. That was the
only
advantage a good radial arm saw with a head that turns a full 90 degrees
has...

Au contraire, good buddy...

The RAS is also the perfect tool for cross-cutting long material that is
otherwise a pita for the tablesaw...fitted w/ a long table and rollers, it
is the cat's meow for the sizing of large stock prior to next step...

It does, of course, imply one has the resources in both money and space to
dedicate to it...

If I had to eliminate one or the other, it would be a hard choice at this
point. It would help in that decision if one had a specific dedication to
a type of work as, say, a cabinet shop or specialty furniture of some
variety that would favor a given size/type of material. As a
general-purpose do everything and anything as it comes up, having the
flexibility is something I'd hate to do without.

So, in the end, "different strokes..."

ymmv, $0.02, etc., etc., etc., ...

--

My stroke, if I have the choice available, is to use table saw for rips. I
like the better full length visibility of the lumber piece while ripping
while usng a table saw. My opinion, the lumber piece tends to more likely
"walk" vertically with a radial arm saw when ripping. Many table saws
already provide vertical stops, anti-reversal fingers, for rips. More
control of the material with a table saw for ripping purposes. The depth of
blade exposed for table saw is minimal vs full exposure for a radial arm
saw. Rather than a "stroke", seems like a more logical choice for rips.
--
Dave

Dioclese wrote:
....
My stroke, if I have the choice available, is to use table saw for rips. I
like the better full length visibility of the lumber piece while ripping
while usng a table saw. My opinion, the lumber piece tends to more likely
"walk" vertically with a radial arm saw when ripping. Many table saws
already provide vertical stops, anti-reversal fingers, for rips. More
control of the material with a table saw for ripping purposes. The depth of
blade exposed for table saw is minimal vs full exposure for a radial arm
saw. Rather than a "stroke", seems like a more logical choice for rips.

Depends on the size of the material and the setup available.

I have the RAS in a 20-ft+ table that exceeds the size of the TS outfeed
table so for large pieces (and specifically full-size ply sheets that
was the starting point for this thread) it is much more stable and
easier to control on the RAS than the TS.

As for the blade, the guard is rotated to meet the surface of the stock
in front which completely covers it from the feed side and the movable
guards drop in the rear which protect from the inadvertent side although
there's no reason to ever be there during the cut anyway. I keep a
permanent pusher where it's convenient to hand for the finish of the cut
to pass it by the blade if the width is narrow enough to be a problem.

Again, it's more to do w/ the arrangement of the facilities than the
tool itself...

--

On Mon, 9 Feb 2009 18:55:31 -0700, "Rudy"
wrote:



First, depending on where you are..see if there is a WWW.CRAIGSLIST.ORG
website nearby and get the saw through "TOOLS" on the site for perhaps HALF
of what you'll pay for a new one at Sears or HD.

Do be careful not to buy something that has been abused to the point
it is ready to fail. Specifically smell around the motor for burned
smells (showing it had a major overload long enough to overheat the
motor) and for other wear.

...

Second, BEWARE when comparing various saws motor HP that Sears commonly uses
'max" HP "DEVELOPED" which is the power draw/created JUST BEFORE the motor
is driven to fail...Divide the HP number they use in half to get a
realistic number. Ie. their "develops 1HP" motor is really a 1/2 hp
motor.

Easiest is the specification plate that *should* be found on each
unit. Figure *roughly* that 10 amps is about 1 HP for an electric
motor. (the number is less, but inefficiency in the motor and system
drive it higher). So ignore a '2.3 HP rated' sticker, and look at the
power drawn on the nameplate for a good indication of how powerful it
is.

That said, power is not critical unless you need speed. You can cut a
lot of wood with a less powerful saw, it just takes (much) longer!


Finally, a lot depends on the quality of the blade.

Absolutely! A good high quality blade is really important. I've used
saws with bad blades (and bought at least one for virtually nothing
because the blade so was dull that it would not cut, and the seller
didn't realize it was just a bad blade, and not the saw).

Get a good name brand
(not Harbor Freight Tools etc) carbide tip blade, up to 40 tooth for
'general' work and make sure you don't cut any staples, screws or nails in
the lumber.

Good luck
R

"dpb" wrote in message ...
Dioclese wrote:
...
My stroke, if I have the choice available, is to use table saw for rips.
I like the better full length visibility of the lumber piece while
ripping while usng a table saw. My opinion, the lumber piece tends to
more likely "walk" vertically with a radial arm saw when ripping. Many
table saws already provide vertical stops, anti-reversal fingers, for
rips. More control of the material with a table saw for ripping
purposes. The depth of blade exposed for table saw is minimal vs full
exposure for a radial arm saw. Rather than a "stroke", seems like a more
logical choice for rips.

Depends on the size of the material and the setup available.

I have the RAS in a 20-ft+ table that exceeds the size of the TS outfeed
table so for large pieces (and specifically full-size ply sheets that was
the starting point for this thread) it is much more stable and easier to
control on the RAS than the TS.

As for the blade, the guard is rotated to meet the surface of the stock in
front which completely covers it from the feed side and the movable guards
drop in the rear which protect from the inadvertent side although there's
no reason to ever be there during the cut anyway. I keep a permanent
pusher where it's convenient to hand for the finish of the cut to pass it
by the blade if the width is narrow enough to be a problem.

Again, it's more to do w/ the arrangement of the facilities than the tool
itself...

--

If I were wondering like the original poster, at this point, you reverse
sold me. There is no "depends on the setup" for rips for common plywood.
There is no limitation on table length in RAS vs table saw. The guard on a
RAS, like a hand-held circular saw meets the lumber after its been sawn, not
before. Most remove that guard for obvious reasons regarding a rip cut.
--
Dave

Dioclese wrote:
....
If I were wondering like the original poster, at this point, you reverse
sold me. There is no "depends on the setup" for rips for common plywood.
There is no limitation on table length in RAS vs table saw. The guard on a
RAS, like a hand-held circular saw meets the lumber after its been sawn, not
before. Most remove that guard for obvious reasons regarding a rip cut.

This subthread has absolutely nothing really to do w/ the original
thread. I told the OP to go w/ the circular saw and a straight edge
for the initial cut-to-size and then a small TS _might_ be of some use.

The limitation is the setup for any individual shop. I have 20+ ft for
the RAS, but _by_choice_ not nearly as long an outfeed table on the TS.
Hence, the setup is much better.

As for the guard, you're simply wrong. The guard on the RAS for ripping
is rotated down until it touches the fed material on the infeed side--it
is a complete blockage against getting into the blade from the feed
direction as it functions to hold the material down as well as the blade
guard. Meanwhile, in the rear, the movable portions of the guard on
either side drop down and also ride on the material. This is not the
same orientation as in crosscutting.

You can protest or disagree or whatever else you care to do; I'm done.

--

On Mon, 9 Feb 2009 14:26:20 -0600, HeyBub wrote:

Ulysses wrote:
Before buying something I would seriously consider taking a shop
class at your local community college to learn what the different
saws are for and how to safely use them.

What's to know?
1. Don't put soft things in the blade.
2. Stand to the side so kick-backs don't de-nut you.
3. If you're a wimp, wear eye protection.
4. If you're a pussy, wear ear protection.

LOL. On #3 you might add "If OSHA is looking.

On #2 someone should point out that Douglas Fir is probably the #1
kickback culprit and a suit of armor might be appropriate under
certain circumstances.


At least a tin cup.

In my shop I wear an apron. It's lead-lined and came from an x-ray lab. I
think it's bulletproof.

Just to be on the safer side, I'm going to line it with home-made ballistic
armor, that is, scraps of engineered laminate flooring.

Still, I see people on TV get ready to use a power tool, something like a
battery-operated screw-driver or an electric spoon, and they suit themselves
up like they were off to train attack dogs.

What's the worst that could happen?

As Dilios said: "Hardly, my lord, it's just an eye. The gods saw fit to
grace me with a spare."

Aprons are a shop no-no, per machining 101.

Michael Dobony wrote:
On Mon, 9 Feb 2009 14:26:20 -0600, HeyBub wrote:

Ulysses wrote:
Before buying something I would seriously consider taking a shop
class at your local community college to learn what the different
saws are for and how to safely use them.
What's to know?
1. Don't put soft things in the blade.
2. Stand to the side so kick-backs don't de-nut you.
3. If you're a wimp, wear eye protection.
4. If you're a pussy, wear ear protection.
LOL. On #3 you might add "If OSHA is looking.

On #2 someone should point out that Douglas Fir is probably the #1
kickback culprit and a suit of armor might be appropriate under
certain circumstances.

At least a tin cup.

In my shop I wear an apron. It's lead-lined and came from an x-ray lab. I
think it's bulletproof.

Just to be on the safer side, I'm going to line it with home-made ballistic
armor, that is, scraps of engineered laminate flooring.

Still, I see people on TV get ready to use a power tool, something like a
battery-operated screw-driver or an electric spoon, and they suit themselves
up like they were off to train attack dogs.

What's the worst that could happen?

As Dilios said: "Hardly, my lord, it's just an eye. The gods saw fit to
grace me with a spare."

Aprons are a shop no-no, per machining 101.
Tell that to my 7th grade shop teacher- he made us all run out and buy
one the first week. Same store that sold the phys ed uniforms. I think
they got a kickback or something. And yes, everyone wrapped the strings
around and tied them in front.

--
aem sends...