Years ago when our engine oil got very dirty, we would drain out the
dirty oil, then add two quarts of kerosene and 2 quarts of clean oil
and run the engine for 15 minutes. Then drain out the dirty mixture
and then add new fresh oil. The oil would then remain clean for the
longest time. I have one hydraulic valve that must be hanging up and
want to try this to see if I can free it up. The tappet is very noisey
when the engine is cold but then quiets when it warms up.
The engine is a V6 Buick Century. Anyone have recommendations or agree
with this old practice???

jasmin wrote:
Years ago when our engine oil got very dirty, we would drain out the
dirty oil, then add two quarts of kerosene and 2 quarts of clean oil
and run the engine for 15 minutes. Then drain out the dirty mixture
and then add new fresh oil. The oil would then remain clean for the
longest time. I have one hydraulic valve that must be hanging up and
want to try this to see if I can free it up. The tappet is very noisey
when the engine is cold but then quiets when it warms up.
The engine is a V6 Buick Century. Anyone have recommendations or agree
with this old practice???

I'm the last guy to EVER believe in snake oils, but I'll tell you what,
you go get you a can of RESTORE from auto parts or walmart and i'll bet
the noise will go away IF it's just a sticky lifter. It won't fix worn
parts. It's in a chrome, black and red can. Get the big v-8 size.

s

jasmin wrote:
Years ago when our engine oil got very dirty, we would drain out the
dirty oil, then add two quarts of kerosene and 2 quarts of clean oil
and run the engine for 15 minutes. Then drain out the dirty mixture
and then add new fresh oil. The oil would then remain clean for the
longest time. I have one hydraulic valve that must be hanging up and
want to try this to see if I can free it up. The tappet is very noisey
when the engine is cold but then quiets when it warms up.
The engine is a V6 Buick Century. Anyone have recommendations or agree
with this old practice???

OH and BTW, the kerosene procedure won't hurt. But it probably won't
help either. Kerosene does not cut the varnish that causes sticky lifters.


s

On Sat, 07 Feb 2009 12:08:05 -0500, jasmin
wrote:

Years ago when our engine oil got very dirty, we would drain out the
dirty oil, then add two quarts of kerosene and 2 quarts of clean oil
and run the engine for 15 minutes. Then drain out the dirty mixture
and then add new fresh oil. The oil would then remain clean for the
longest time. I have one hydraulic valve that must be hanging up and
want to try this to see if I can free it up. The tappet is very noisey
when the engine is cold but then quiets when it warms up.
The engine is a V6 Buick Century. Anyone have recommendations or agree
with this old practice???


It still works. Just be carefull.

On Sat, 07 Feb 2009 13:50:25 -0600, Steve Barker
wrote:

jasmin wrote:
Years ago when our engine oil got very dirty, we would drain out the
dirty oil, then add two quarts of kerosene and 2 quarts of clean oil
and run the engine for 15 minutes. Then drain out the dirty mixture
and then add new fresh oil. The oil would then remain clean for the
longest time. I have one hydraulic valve that must be hanging up and
want to try this to see if I can free it up. The tappet is very noisey
when the engine is cold but then quiets when it warms up.
The engine is a V6 Buick Century. Anyone have recommendations or agree
with this old practice???

OH and BTW, the kerosene procedure won't hurt. But it probably won't
help either. Kerosene does not cut the varnish that causes sticky lifters.


Not very quickly, at any rate - but I have had it work. I like MMO
better though - and using ATF you can go to 25% if you are not going
to drive it hard or long.
s

On Feb 7, 11:08*am, jasmin wrote:
Years ago when our engine oil got very dirty, we would drain out the
dirty oil, then add two quarts of kerosene and 2 quarts of clean oil
and run the engine for 15 minutes. Then drain out the dirty mixture
and then add new fresh oil. The oil would then remain clean for the
longest time. I have one hydraulic valve that must be hanging up and
want to try this to see if I can free it up. The tappet is very noisey
when the engine is cold but then quiets when it warms up.
The engine is a V6 Buick Century. Anyone have recommendations or agree
with this old practice???

I often throw a quart of ATF in about a week before the oil change.
ATF is very high detergent, and will knock a lot of dirt loose,& hold
it in suspension so when you do your oil change it gets flushed out.
When you change your oil catch it after a highway run, the drain plug
should be so hot you have a hard time handling it.
I've done the flush kerosene flush, i can't say it is all that
effective, & BTW diesel is pretty much oil and kerosene, so that works
too.

Might want to try a different brand of motor oil. I had a
wicked piston rod knock in my last Blazer. Tried a couple
different brand of oil, and tried heavier weights. Catsrol
was the brand that quieted the rod knock for more than two
days.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"jasmin" wrote in message
...
Years ago when our engine oil got very dirty, we would drain
out the
dirty oil, then add two quarts of kerosene and 2 quarts of
clean oil
and run the engine for 15 minutes. Then drain out the dirty
mixture
and then add new fresh oil. The oil would then remain clean
for the
longest time. I have one hydraulic valve that must be
hanging up and
want to try this to see if I can free it up. The tappet is
very noisey
when the engine is cold but then quiets when it warms up.
The engine is a V6 Buick Century. Anyone have
recommendations or agree
with this old practice???

I do field service for a living and drive vehicles till the wheels
fall off. So far my highest mileage vehicle when retired to junk yard
was a 1990 caravan with about 450,000 miles or so. A little unsure
cause the odometer broke for awhile. Although It had a engine swap
near the end, maybe 400,000 miles

In any case my older vans get noisey lifters etc. Slick 50 silences
that, espically the noise after a vehicle sits for awhile./ I devote
one van to big deliveries and back up if the primary one breaks....

Never checked mileage or temperature but that noise disappears.

I use it every few oil changes. so the cost isnt a killer

On Sun, 8 Feb 2009 08:17:36 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

I do field service for a living and drive vehicles till the wheels
fall off. So far my highest mileage vehicle when retired to junk yard
was a 1990 caravan with about 450,000 miles or so. A little unsure
cause the odometer broke for awhile. Although It had a engine swap
near the end, maybe 400,000 miles

In any case my older vans get noisey lifters etc. Slick 50 silences
that, espically the noise after a vehicle sits for awhile./ I devote
one van to big deliveries and back up if the primary one breaks....

Never checked mileage or temperature but that noise disappears.

I use it every few oil changes. so the cost isnt a killer

Motor Honey, STP,, Bardahl 2, Lucas, or virtually any other VI
improver would do the same job at a lot lower cost. 20W50 oil and the
proper oil filter will do it too.

wrote:
On Sat, 07 Feb 2009 12:08:05 -0500, jasmin
wrote:

Years ago when our engine oil got very dirty, we would drain out the
dirty oil, then add two quarts of kerosene and 2 quarts of clean oil
and run the engine for 15 minutes. Then drain out the dirty mixture
and then add new fresh oil. The oil would then remain clean for the
longest time. I have one hydraulic valve that must be hanging up and
want to try this to see if I can free it up. The tappet is very noisey
when the engine is cold but then quiets when it warms up.
The engine is a V6 Buick Century. Anyone have recommendations or agree
with this old practice???

Don't use that old 1950's trick. You are not driving a 1950's
car. It can damage modern cars.

There are a few additives that might be used as a last chance
for a cheap fix, but don't expect too much. I would choose Marvel
Mystery myself if I had to, but I suspect I would just really fix the
problem.

Modern engines are far different than the 50's. They demand
different oils, many need synthetic oils.

Pure bull****. The bearings are still aluminum, the pistons are still
aluminum, the crank is still cast iron. Other than the fact that the
new engines are built a lot looser, for less friction, there is
virtually no difference in the bottom end.

s

On Tue, 10 Feb 2009 00:08:50 -0600, Steve Barker
wrote:

wrote:
On Sat, 07 Feb 2009 12:08:05 -0500, jasmin
wrote:

Years ago when our engine oil got very dirty, we would drain out the
dirty oil, then add two quarts of kerosene and 2 quarts of clean oil
and run the engine for 15 minutes. Then drain out the dirty mixture
and then add new fresh oil. The oil would then remain clean for the
longest time. I have one hydraulic valve that must be hanging up and
want to try this to see if I can free it up. The tappet is very noisey
when the engine is cold but then quiets when it warms up.
The engine is a V6 Buick Century. Anyone have recommendations or agree
with this old practice???

Don't use that old 1950's trick. You are not driving a 1950's
car. It can damage modern cars.

There are a few additives that might be used as a last chance
for a cheap fix, but don't expect too much. I would choose Marvel
Mystery myself if I had to, but I suspect I would just really fix the
problem.

Modern engines are far different than the 50's. They demand
different oils, many need synthetic oils.

Pure bull****. The bearings are still aluminum, the pistons are still
aluminum, the crank is still cast iron. Other than the fact that the
new engines are built a lot looser, for less friction, there is
virtually no difference in the bottom end.

s

You are saying that the 1950's engines used aluminum pistons?
I believe you will find that overall modern engines are a little
tighter not looser.

On Tue, 10 Feb 2009 00:08:50 -0600, Steve Barker
wrote:

wrote:
On Sat, 07 Feb 2009 12:08:05 -0500, jasmin
wrote:

Years ago when our engine oil got very dirty, we would drain out the
dirty oil, then add two quarts of kerosene and 2 quarts of clean oil
and run the engine for 15 minutes. Then drain out the dirty mixture
and then add new fresh oil. The oil would then remain clean for the
longest time. I have one hydraulic valve that must be hanging up and
want to try this to see if I can free it up. The tappet is very noisey
when the engine is cold but then quiets when it warms up.
The engine is a V6 Buick Century. Anyone have recommendations or agree
with this old practice???

Don't use that old 1950's trick. You are not driving a 1950's
car. It can damage modern cars.

There are a few additives that might be used as a last chance
for a cheap fix, but don't expect too much. I would choose Marvel
Mystery myself if I had to, but I suspect I would just really fix the
problem.

Modern engines are far different than the 50's. They demand
different oils, many need synthetic oils.

Pure bull****. The bearings are still aluminum, the pistons are still
aluminum, the crank is still cast iron. Other than the fact that the
new engines are built a lot looser, for less friction, there is
virtually no difference in the bottom end.

s
Actually,The theory is they are built TIGHTER which is why lighter
oils are used. In reality they are built about the same, on average,
but the tolerances are a lot better. MUCH more uniform.

The old oils will work, but not as long, and will foul up some of the
new controls. Can't have high zinc oils any more because they foul up
the catalytic converters if the oil is burned. Stuff like that.

On Tue, 10 Feb 2009 10:14:40 -0500, wrote:

On Tue, 10 Feb 2009 00:08:50 -0600, Steve Barker
wrote:

wrote:
On Sat, 07 Feb 2009 12:08:05 -0500, jasmin
wrote:

Years ago when our engine oil got very dirty, we would drain out the
dirty oil, then add two quarts of kerosene and 2 quarts of clean oil
and run the engine for 15 minutes. Then drain out the dirty mixture
and then add new fresh oil. The oil would then remain clean for the
longest time. I have one hydraulic valve that must be hanging up and
want to try this to see if I can free it up. The tappet is very noisey
when the engine is cold but then quiets when it warms up.
The engine is a V6 Buick Century. Anyone have recommendations or agree
with this old practice???

Don't use that old 1950's trick. You are not driving a 1950's
car. It can damage modern cars.

There are a few additives that might be used as a last chance
for a cheap fix, but don't expect too much. I would choose Marvel
Mystery myself if I had to, but I suspect I would just really fix the
problem.

Modern engines are far different than the 50's. They demand
different oils, many need synthetic oils.

Pure bull****. The bearings are still aluminum, the pistons are still
aluminum, the crank is still cast iron. Other than the fact that the
new engines are built a lot looser, for less friction, there is
virtually no difference in the bottom end.

s

You are saying that the 1950's engines used aluminum pistons?
I believe you will find that overall modern engines are a little
tighter not looser.
Many 1950's engines DID use aluminum pistons, but most used cast iron
(chevy stovebolt was the biggest seller)

wrote:
On Tue, 10 Feb 2009 00:08:50 -0600, Steve Barker
wrote:

wrote:
On Sat, 07 Feb 2009 12:08:05 -0500, jasmin
wrote:

Years ago when our engine oil got very dirty, we would drain out the
dirty oil, then add two quarts of kerosene and 2 quarts of clean oil
and run the engine for 15 minutes. Then drain out the dirty mixture
and then add new fresh oil. The oil would then remain clean for the
longest time. I have one hydraulic valve that must be hanging up and
want to try this to see if I can free it up. The tappet is very noisey
when the engine is cold but then quiets when it warms up.
The engine is a V6 Buick Century. Anyone have recommendations or agree
with this old practice???
Don't use that old 1950's trick. You are not driving a 1950's
car. It can damage modern cars.

There are a few additives that might be used as a last chance
for a cheap fix, but don't expect too much. I would choose Marvel
Mystery myself if I had to, but I suspect I would just really fix the
problem.

Modern engines are far different than the 50's. They demand
different oils, many need synthetic oils.
Pure bull****. The bearings are still aluminum, the pistons are still
aluminum, the crank is still cast iron. Other than the fact that the
new engines are built a lot looser, for less friction, there is
virtually no difference in the bottom end.

s

You are saying that the 1950's engines used aluminum pistons?
I believe you will find that overall modern engines are a little
tighter not looser.

Well you can believe all you want. The rings went lo-tension in the
'80's, and the general tolerances are wider. And yes, the 50's engines
had aluminum pistons. Can't imagine they were ever anything else.

steve

wrote:
On Tue, 10 Feb 2009 00:08:50 -0600, Steve Barker
wrote:

wrote:
On Sat, 07 Feb 2009 12:08:05 -0500, jasmin
wrote:

Years ago when our engine oil got very dirty, we would drain out the
dirty oil, then add two quarts of kerosene and 2 quarts of clean oil
and run the engine for 15 minutes. Then drain out the dirty mixture
and then add new fresh oil. The oil would then remain clean for the
longest time. I have one hydraulic valve that must be hanging up and
want to try this to see if I can free it up. The tappet is very noisey
when the engine is cold but then quiets when it warms up.
The engine is a V6 Buick Century. Anyone have recommendations or agree
with this old practice???
Don't use that old 1950's trick. You are not driving a 1950's
car. It can damage modern cars.

There are a few additives that might be used as a last chance
for a cheap fix, but don't expect too much. I would choose Marvel
Mystery myself if I had to, but I suspect I would just really fix the
problem.

Modern engines are far different than the 50's. They demand
different oils, many need synthetic oils.
Pure bull****. The bearings are still aluminum, the pistons are still
aluminum, the crank is still cast iron. Other than the fact that the
new engines are built a lot looser, for less friction, there is
virtually no difference in the bottom end.

s
Actually,The theory is they are built TIGHTER which is why lighter
oils are used. In reality they are built about the same, on average,
but the tolerances are a lot better. MUCH more uniform.

The old oils will work, but not as long, and will foul up some of the
new controls. Can't have high zinc oils any more because they foul up
the catalytic converters if the oil is burned. Stuff like that.

the lighter oils are purely a gas saving thing. Has nothing to do with
the lubricating requirements. It saves gas when figured on a million
engines at a time.

And you can't buy 'old' oil anyway. Nearly EVERY oil on the shelf has
certification for every new engine.

steve

Steve Barker wrote:
wrote:
On Tue, 10 Feb 2009 00:08:50 -0600, Steve Barker
wrote:

wrote:
On Sat, 07 Feb 2009 12:08:05 -0500, jasmin
wrote:

Years ago when our engine oil got very dirty, we would drain out the
dirty oil, then add two quarts of kerosene and 2 quarts of clean oil
and run the engine for 15 minutes. Then drain out the dirty mixture
and then add new fresh oil. The oil would then remain clean for the
longest time. I have one hydraulic valve that must be hanging up and
want to try this to see if I can free it up. The tappet is very noisey
when the engine is cold but then quiets when it warms up. The
engine is a V6 Buick Century. Anyone have recommendations or agree
with this old practice???
Don't use that old 1950's trick. You are not driving a 1950's
car. It can damage modern cars.
There are a few additives that might be used as a last chance
for a cheap fix, but don't expect too much. I would choose Marvel
Mystery myself if I had to, but I suspect I would just really fix the
problem.

Modern engines are far different than the 50's. They demand
different oils, many need synthetic oils.
Pure bull****. The bearings are still aluminum, the pistons are
still aluminum, the crank is still cast iron. Other than the fact
that the new engines are built a lot looser, for less friction, there
is virtually no difference in the bottom end.

s

You are saying that the 1950's engines used aluminum pistons?
I believe you will find that overall modern engines are a little
tighter not looser.
Well you can believe all you want. The rings went lo-tension in the
'80's, and the general tolerances are wider. And yes, the 50's engines
had aluminum pistons. Can't imagine they were ever anything else.

steve

Some very old engines had cast iron pistons, but that was many years
ago. If there were any used in autos of the 50s, they must have been
old designs even then. The oldest engine I've personally had apart was
a Studebaker V-8 whose design dates to 1951; that had Al pistons. I
suspect that the Commander six (1933-ish?) also did, but I don't trust
my memory on that nor did a quick google confirm it.

nate

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On Tue, 10 Feb 2009 20:27:38 -0600, Steve Barker
wrote:

wrote:
On Tue, 10 Feb 2009 00:08:50 -0600, Steve Barker
wrote:

wrote:
On Sat, 07 Feb 2009 12:08:05 -0500, jasmin
wrote:

Years ago when our engine oil got very dirty, we would drain out the
dirty oil, then add two quarts of kerosene and 2 quarts of clean oil
and run the engine for 15 minutes. Then drain out the dirty mixture
and then add new fresh oil. The oil would then remain clean for the
longest time. I have one hydraulic valve that must be hanging up and
want to try this to see if I can free it up. The tappet is very noisey
when the engine is cold but then quiets when it warms up.
The engine is a V6 Buick Century. Anyone have recommendations or agree
with this old practice???
Don't use that old 1950's trick. You are not driving a 1950's
car. It can damage modern cars.

There are a few additives that might be used as a last chance
for a cheap fix, but don't expect too much. I would choose Marvel
Mystery myself if I had to, but I suspect I would just really fix the
problem.

Modern engines are far different than the 50's. They demand
different oils, many need synthetic oils.
Pure bull****. The bearings are still aluminum, the pistons are still
aluminum, the crank is still cast iron. Other than the fact that the
new engines are built a lot looser, for less friction, there is
virtually no difference in the bottom end.

s

You are saying that the 1950's engines used aluminum pistons?
I believe you will find that overall modern engines are a little
tighter not looser.

Well you can believe all you want. The rings went lo-tension in the
'80's, and the general tolerances are wider. And yes, the 50's engines
had aluminum pistons. Can't imagine they were ever anything else.

steve
Well, cast iron pistons were very common for many years, and please
check your specifications. Bearing clearances have stayed very close
to what they have been ever since full pressure lubrication became
standard and the running clearance of the pistons (when fully warm) is
the same or a bit tighter. Cam ground, eliptical, and hypereutectic
pistons have reduced piston slap when cold. Engines are only "looser"
in that the rings provide less resistance (friction) because they are
only half as wide as the "old school" piston rings, and the cyl wall
and ring finishes are much finer - which contribute to the
significantly reduced cyl wall wear. The "new generation" lubricants
help get the most out of this new mechanical technology - but they
will generally run just fine on the older oils - for a lot shorter
time.
The latest modification to engine oils, the removal of zinc high
pressure friction reduction compounds, was mandated entirely for
emmissions reasons, as the compounds required to keep the zinc in
suspension poison the catalytic converters if the engines consume any
of the oil - and with 0W30 and 5W20 oils SOME is going to get past the
rings during the mandatedemissions guarantee period.

On Tue, 10 Feb 2009 21:36:25 -0500, Nate Nagel
wrote:

Steve Barker wrote:
wrote:
On Tue, 10 Feb 2009 00:08:50 -0600, Steve Barker
wrote:

wrote:
On Sat, 07 Feb 2009 12:08:05 -0500, jasmin
wrote:

Years ago when our engine oil got very dirty, we would drain out the
dirty oil, then add two quarts of kerosene and 2 quarts of clean oil
and run the engine for 15 minutes. Then drain out the dirty mixture
and then add new fresh oil. The oil would then remain clean for the
longest time. I have one hydraulic valve that must be hanging up and
want to try this to see if I can free it up. The tappet is very noisey
when the engine is cold but then quiets when it warms up. The
engine is a V6 Buick Century. Anyone have recommendations or agree
with this old practice???
Don't use that old 1950's trick. You are not driving a 1950's
car. It can damage modern cars.
There are a few additives that might be used as a last chance
for a cheap fix, but don't expect too much. I would choose Marvel
Mystery myself if I had to, but I suspect I would just really fix the
problem.

Modern engines are far different than the 50's. They demand
different oils, many need synthetic oils.
Pure bull****. The bearings are still aluminum, the pistons are
still aluminum, the crank is still cast iron. Other than the fact
that the new engines are built a lot looser, for less friction, there
is virtually no difference in the bottom end.

s

You are saying that the 1950's engines used aluminum pistons?
I believe you will find that overall modern engines are a little
tighter not looser.
Well you can believe all you want. The rings went lo-tension in the
'80's, and the general tolerances are wider. And yes, the 50's engines
had aluminum pistons. Can't imagine they were ever anything else.

steve

Some very old engines had cast iron pistons, but that was many years
ago. If there were any used in autos of the 50s, they must have been
old designs even then. The oldest engine I've personally had apart was
a Studebaker V-8 whose design dates to 1951; that had Al pistons. I
suspect that the Commander six (1933-ish?) also did, but I don't trust
my memory on that nor did a quick google confirm it.

nate

nate
The Chevy "StoveBolt" six had cast iron pistons right up untill 1962
- Also known as the "cast iron wonder"
It got full pressure lube and hydraulic lifters back in 1953
(pwerglide only) and 1954

I put a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in there with an oil change, and run it
half as long as I would a regular oil change. Old timers used to use a
quart of diesel. It works to free up hydraulic lifters, and since we have
few hot rodders, most 99.999999999999999999% of the population has
hydraulics, not solid lifters. I DO NOT do this if I am going to drive
that distance at highway speeds, but rather if I am going to do a mix of
freeway speeds and round town driving. Drain, and change oil. I also like
to use a probe that fits through the drain hole and sprays a high pressure
jet onto the screen that is over the oil pick up in the pan. This dislodges
crud that accumulates on the screen and inside the pan that normally does
not drain out in a regular oil change. First time, put a filter under the
outflow, and spend a full 15 minutes, or until you stop getting crap out,
which will be 30 minutes if you really have a long extension and work it.
Extends the life of motors tremendously. If you have a parts washer, this
will do, but the higher the pressure, the more crud you will kick loose. A
magnet in the drain plug also picks up ferrous metal fragments, and the new
supermagnets epoxied onto the drain plug catches anything ferrous that is
floating in the oil.

Advice from an old fart hotrodder who cut his teeth on '56 Chevies and 300
hp 327's.

imho, jmho, ymmv, etc, etc, etc

Run it like you stole it.

Steve

On Tue, 10 Feb 2009 20:29:46 -0600, Steve Barker
wrote:

...

the lighter oils are purely a gas saving thing. Has nothing to do with
the lubricating requirements. It saves gas when figured on a million
engines at a time.

Sorry, but I can't really buy that. The lighter oils may be
in part for better mileage but they are also for better protection.

I wonder how many people realize that the first number is only
used to describe the oil when it is cold and the second number
describes the oil when it is at operating temperatures.


And you can't buy 'old' oil anyway. Nearly EVERY oil on the shelf has
certification for every new engine.

Certainly not mine. I drive a diesel and it is picky about
the oil it uses.



steve

On Thu, 12 Feb 2009 09:14:23 -0500, wrote:

On Tue, 10 Feb 2009 20:29:46 -0600, Steve Barker
wrote:

..

the lighter oils are purely a gas saving thing. Has nothing to do with
the lubricating requirements. It saves gas when figured on a million
engines at a time.

Sorry, but I can't really buy that. The lighter oils may be
in part for better mileage but they are also for better protection.

I wonder how many people realize that the first number is only
used to describe the oil when it is cold and the second number
describes the oil when it is at operating temperatures.

Yes, so? what would be wrong with a 0W50 in place of a 5W20?
Cold lubrication would be a non-issue because Ow flows better cold
than 5W, and hot protection would be better because 50 doesn't thin
out as much hot as 20 - The ONLY reason to use a 5W20 would be better
fuel mileage due to thinner oil requiring less power to pump.


And you can't buy 'old' oil anyway. Nearly EVERY oil on the shelf has
certification for every new engine.

Certainly not mine. I drive a diesel and it is picky about
the oil it uses.

Picky how? Is it a Turbo Deisel? Then it needs the top line turbo
deisel oil. Otherwise MOST deisels will run any good C rated oil like
Rotella T 15W40.
And there is a fair bit of oil available out there that does not meet
the latest and highest spec.


steve

On Thu, 12 Feb 2009 15:39:05 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 12 Feb 2009 09:14:23 -0500, wrote:

On Tue, 10 Feb 2009 20:29:46 -0600, Steve Barker
wrote:

..

the lighter oils are purely a gas saving thing. Has nothing to do with
the lubricating requirements. It saves gas when figured on a million
engines at a time.

Sorry, but I can't really buy that. The lighter oils may be
in part for better mileage but they are also for better protection.

I wonder how many people realize that the first number is only
used to describe the oil when it is cold and the second number
describes the oil when it is at operating temperatures.

Yes, so? what would be wrong with a 0W50 in place of a 5W20?

All else being equal and assuming that 50W when hot would meet
the needs of the engine and that 0 would not be too light when cold
(hardly seems likely to me) than it should be fine.

Cold lubrication would be a non-issue because Ow flows better cold
than 5W, and hot protection would be better because 50 doesn't thin
out as much hot as 20 - The ONLY reason to use a 5W20 would be better
fuel mileage due to thinner oil requiring less power to pump.


And you can't buy 'old' oil anyway. Nearly EVERY oil on the shelf has
certification for every new engine.

Certainly not mine. I drive a diesel and it is picky about
the oil it uses.

Picky how? Is it a Turbo Deisel? Then it needs the top line turbo
deisel oil. Otherwise MOST deisels will run any good C rated oil like
Rotella T 15W40.

I use 5W40 CF Rotella myself, but that is for my 2002 TDI I
don't believe it meets the requirements of the current 2009 VW US spec
diesel.


And there is a fair bit of oil available out there that does not meet
the latest and highest spec.


steve