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#1
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welding/gluing stainless
Hi all,
have one of those corner pole caddy things in my bathroom, actually just bought it not long ago. However, within a day or two of putting it up I noticed that the rod to hang a washcloth from was loose at one end, one of the spots where two wires were supposed to be welded to each other, well, they weren't. I managed to get a replacement from the vendor but they said they didn't want the old one back, which makes me wonder if there's an economical way to fix it so that I could possibly use it in the shower in the garage. Is there any adhesive that I could use that would have a hope of working? Or where would I be likely to find someone who could weld stainless using stainless filler material? nate -- replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. http://members.cox.net/njnagel |
#2
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welding/gluing stainless
On Jan 24, 12:57*pm, Nate Nagel wrote:
Hi all, have one of those corner pole caddy things in my bathroom, actually just bought it not long ago. *However, within a day or two of putting it up I noticed that the rod to hang a washcloth from was loose at one end, one of the spots where two wires were supposed to be welded to each other, well, they weren't. *I managed to get a replacement from the vendor but they said they didn't want the old one back, which makes me wonder if there's an economical way to fix it so that I could possibly use it in the shower in the garage. *Is there any adhesive that I could use that would have a hope of working? *Or where would I be likely to find someone who could weld stainless using stainless filler material? If the welding shop quote seems a tat pricey, you could take advantage of the compatibility of stainless with silver solder. It can be used with MAPP gas on small projects although oxyacetylene is faster. Silver solder is underappreciated IMO, and has excellent strength properties, yet works at far lower temperatures than common brazing. A MAPP gas outfit is a lot cheaper than O-A and a nice step up from a propane torch. HTH Joe |
#3
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welding/gluing stainless
On Sat, 24 Jan 2009 13:57:43 -0500, Nate Nagel
wrote: Hi all, have one of those corner pole caddy things in my bathroom, actually just bought it not long ago. However, within a day or two of putting it up I noticed that the rod to hang a washcloth from was loose at one end, one of the spots where two wires were supposed to be welded to each other, well, they weren't. I managed to get a replacement from the vendor but they said they didn't want the old one back, which makes me wonder if there's an economical way to fix it so that I could possibly use it in the shower in the garage. Is there any adhesive that I could use that would have a hope of working? Or where would I be likely to find someone who could weld stainless using stainless filler material? nate Cheap method might be a metal epoxy. We fixed a cast iron garden feature. A bowl/dish sat on the pedestal and was threaded, but was stripped on the disk. A little two part syringe of metal epoxy fixed it. |
#4
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welding/gluing stainless
On 1/24/2009 1:34 PM Oren spake thus:
On Sat, 24 Jan 2009 13:57:43 -0500, Nate Nagel wrote: have one of those corner pole caddy things in my bathroom, actually just bought it not long ago. However, within a day or two of putting it up I noticed that the rod to hang a washcloth from was loose at one end, one of the spots where two wires were supposed to be welded to each other, well, they weren't. I managed to get a replacement from the vendor but they said they didn't want the old one back, which makes me wonder if there's an economical way to fix it so that I could possibly use it in the shower in the garage. Is there any adhesive that I could use that would have a hope of working? Or where would I be likely to find someone who could weld stainless using stainless filler material? Cheap method might be a metal epoxy. We fixed a cast iron garden feature. A bowl/dish sat on the pedestal and was threaded, but was stripped on the disk. A little two part syringe of metal epoxy fixed it. Won't work on a connection with so little contact area; it'll just break right off. Epoxy is good for a lot of repairs, but it has its limits. -- Made From Pears: Pretty good chance that the product is at least mostly pears. Made With Pears: Pretty good chance that pears will be detectable in the product. Contains Pears: One pear seed per multiple tons of product. (with apologies to Dorothy L. Sayers) |
#5
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welding/gluing stainless
Tony Hwang wrote:
Nate Nagel wrote: Hi all, have one of those corner pole caddy things in my bathroom, actually just bought it not long ago. However, within a day or two of putting it up I noticed that the rod to hang a washcloth from was loose at one end, one of the spots where two wires were supposed to be welded to each other, well, they weren't. I managed to get a replacement from the vendor but they said they didn't want the old one back, which makes me wonder if there's an economical way to fix it so that I could possibly use it in the shower in the garage. Is there any adhesive that I could use that would have a hope of working? Or where would I be likely to find someone who could weld stainless using stainless filler material? nate Hi. How about silver solder brazing? Be cheaper to buy another one, probably. (Also cheaper than taking to a welding shop.) For a garage shower, I'd try the wire-wrap thing somebody else mentioned (think tying a fishing lure), or even a small SS hose clamp. Doesn't need to be pretty, just strong and rust-resistant. Actually, I'm jealous. Wish I had a garage shower, for after yard work. My garage gets awful cold in winter, though. -- aem sends... |
#6
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welding/gluing stainless
aemeijers wrote:
Tony Hwang wrote: Nate Nagel wrote: Hi all, have one of those corner pole caddy things in my bathroom, actually just bought it not long ago. However, within a day or two of putting it up I noticed that the rod to hang a washcloth from was loose at one end, one of the spots where two wires were supposed to be welded to each other, well, they weren't. I managed to get a replacement from the vendor but they said they didn't want the old one back, which makes me wonder if there's an economical way to fix it so that I could possibly use it in the shower in the garage. Is there any adhesive that I could use that would have a hope of working? Or where would I be likely to find someone who could weld stainless using stainless filler material? nate Hi. How about silver solder brazing? Be cheaper to buy another one, probably. (Also cheaper than taking to a welding shop.) For a garage shower, I'd try the wire-wrap thing somebody else mentioned (think tying a fishing lure), or even a small SS hose clamp. Doesn't need to be pretty, just strong and rust-resistant. Actually, I'm jealous. Wish I had a garage shower, for after yard work. My garage gets awful cold in winter, though. -- aem sends... yeah, same here. Water is shut off for the winter. Was hoping to be able to get a heat pump installed out there, but no raises this year. @#$%#@ stupid economy. Don't be too jealous, it's really badly built and needs to be redone, but first things first - get some heat out there, then get the busted VW out. Then maybe redo the shower nate -- replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. http://members.cox.net/njnagel |
#7
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welding/gluing stainless
"Nate Nagel" wrote in message ... Hi all, have one of those corner pole caddy things in my bathroom, actually just bought it not long ago. However, within a day or two of putting it up I noticed that the rod to hang a washcloth from was loose at one end, one of the spots where two wires were supposed to be welded to each other, well, they weren't. I managed to get a replacement from the vendor but they said they didn't want the old one back, which makes me wonder if there's an economical way to fix it so that I could possibly use it in the shower in the garage. Is there any adhesive that I could use that would have a hope of working? Or where would I be likely to find someone who could weld stainless using stainless filler material? nate -- replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. http://members.cox.net/njnagel To glue I would try JB Weld, scuff up the contact area with sand paper, clean with rubbing alcohol and glue. Hose clamps? (Would most likely rust.) Or how about U-bolts? They come zinc plated and in stainless steel. Cheers, Jim |
#8
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welding/gluing stainless
On Jan 24, 1:56*pm, Nate Nagel wrote:
Joe wrote: On Jan 24, 12:57 pm, Nate Nagel wrote: snip If the welding shop quote seems a tat pricey, you could take advantage of the compatibility of stainless with silver solder. It can be used with MAPP gas on small projects although oxyacetylene is faster. Silver solder is underappreciated IMO, and has excellent strength properties, yet works at far lower temperatures than common brazing. A MAPP gas outfit is a lot cheaper than O-A and a nice step up from a propane torch. HTH Joe thanks, I might try that, I already have a MAPP torch (just plain MAPP though, not oxy-MAPP - does that matter?) Nate Your MAPP outfit should work OK, maybe a bit slow if the the parts are good sized. One thing I learned years ago about silver solder is that the cheap alloys are hard to work with, terrible, actually. Getting the molten flux to cover the whole area you're working on is also rather important. An added trait of silver solder is that it is one of the best materials around for attaching tungsten carbide pieces to steel to make one-off special cutting tools for home projects. Hole saws from pieces of pipe and carbide are an example of a nifty way to drill out broken toilet bolts in concrete slabs, Naturally, this doesn't help a shop with a few hammers and rusty wrenches, but not all SWMBO's are so tight with family funds. HTH Joe |
#9
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welding/gluing stainless
Joe wrote:
On Jan 24, 1:56 pm, Nate Nagel wrote: Joe wrote: On Jan 24, 12:57 pm, Nate Nagel wrote: snip If the welding shop quote seems a tat pricey, you could take advantage of the compatibility of stainless with silver solder. It can be used with MAPP gas on small projects although oxyacetylene is faster. Silver solder is underappreciated IMO, and has excellent strength properties, yet works at far lower temperatures than common brazing. A MAPP gas outfit is a lot cheaper than O-A and a nice step up from a propane torch. HTH Joe thanks, I might try that, I already have a MAPP torch (just plain MAPP though, not oxy-MAPP - does that matter?) Nate Your MAPP outfit should work OK, maybe a bit slow if the the parts are good sized. One thing I learned years ago about silver solder is that the cheap alloys are hard to work with, terrible, actually. Getting the molten flux to cover the whole area you're working on is also rather important. An added trait of silver solder is that it is one of the best materials around for attaching tungsten carbide pieces to steel to make one-off special cutting tools for home projects. Hole saws from pieces of pipe and carbide are an example of a nifty way to drill out broken toilet bolts in concrete slabs, Naturally, this doesn't help a shop with a few hammers and rusty wrenches, but not all SWMBO's are so tight with family funds. HTH Joe Could you recommend a product/where to purchase? What flux to use? I have to admit that this is a whole new area for me... nate -- replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. http://members.cox.net/njnagel |
#10
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welding/gluing stainless
On Jan 29, 6:34*pm, Nate Nagel wrote:
Joe wrote: On Jan 24, 1:56 pm, Nate Nagel wrote: Joe wrote: On Jan 24, 12:57 pm, Nate Nagel wrote: snip If the welding shop quote seems a tat pricey, you could take advantage of the compatibility of stainless with silver solder. It can be used with MAPP gas on small projects although oxyacetylene is faster. Silver solder is underappreciated IMO, and has excellent strength properties, yet works at far lower temperatures than common brazing. A MAPP gas outfit is a lot cheaper than O-A and a nice step up from a propane torch. HTH Joe thanks, I might try that, I already have a MAPP torch (just plain MAPP though, not oxy-MAPP - does that matter?) Nate Your MAPP outfit should work OK, maybe a bit slow if the the parts are good sized. One thing I learned years ago about silver solder is that the cheap alloys are hard to work with, terrible, actually. Getting the molten flux to cover the whole area you're working on is also rather important. An added trait of silver solder is that it is one of the best materials around for attaching tungsten carbide pieces to steel to make one-off special cutting tools for home projects. Hole saws from pieces of pipe and carbide are an example of a nifty way to drill out broken toilet bolts in concrete slabs, Naturally, this doesn't help a shop with a few hammers and rusty wrenches, but not all SWMBO's are so tight with family funds. HTH Joe Could you recommend a product/where to purchase? *What flux to use? *I have to admit that this is a whole new area for me... nate -- replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.http://members.cox.net/njnagel The better welding stores will have complete kits of flux and solder usually quite modestly priced. The flux tends to dry out easily and must be kept a bit moist to be useful. This means that when you start the procedure you apply heat gradually tp dry the flux in place, then add more heat to melt and flow in the work area. If the solder in the the kit is hard to work, simply buy a small quantity of better solder at the store. Performance seems to be directly related to price IMO. Anyway, the flux supplied in the kits is way more than you will use with the metal supplied. Expanding on this topic of brazing, welding supply stores will have alloys referred to as 'nickel braze'. These are handy for folks that have O-A outfits. In cases where you need super high strength beyond ordinary brazing, and MIG or TIG isn't available, this alloy works super for 4130 steel commonly used by the Experimental Aircraft guys and sporty car racers. There is probably a NG devoted to this that might be informative. Cheers, Joe |
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