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Default welding/gluing stainless

Hi all,

have one of those corner pole caddy things in my bathroom, actually just
bought it not long ago. However, within a day or two of putting it up I
noticed that the rod to hang a washcloth from was loose at one end, one
of the spots where two wires were supposed to be welded to each other,
well, they weren't. I managed to get a replacement from the vendor but
they said they didn't want the old one back, which makes me wonder if
there's an economical way to fix it so that I could possibly use it in
the shower in the garage. Is there any adhesive that I could use that
would have a hope of working? Or where would I be likely to find
someone who could weld stainless using stainless filler material?

nate

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Default welding/gluing stainless

On Jan 24, 12:57*pm, Nate Nagel wrote:
Hi all,

have one of those corner pole caddy things in my bathroom, actually just
bought it not long ago. *However, within a day or two of putting it up I
noticed that the rod to hang a washcloth from was loose at one end, one
of the spots where two wires were supposed to be welded to each other,
well, they weren't. *I managed to get a replacement from the vendor but
they said they didn't want the old one back, which makes me wonder if
there's an economical way to fix it so that I could possibly use it in
the shower in the garage. *Is there any adhesive that I could use that
would have a hope of working? *Or where would I be likely to find
someone who could weld stainless using stainless filler material?


If the welding shop quote seems a tat pricey, you could take advantage
of the compatibility of stainless with silver solder. It can be used
with MAPP gas on small projects although oxyacetylene is faster.
Silver solder is underappreciated IMO, and has excellent strength
properties, yet works at far lower temperatures than common brazing. A
MAPP gas outfit is a lot cheaper than O-A and a nice step up from a
propane torch. HTH

Joe

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Default welding/gluing stainless

On Sat, 24 Jan 2009 13:57:43 -0500, Nate Nagel
wrote:

Hi all,

have one of those corner pole caddy things in my bathroom, actually just
bought it not long ago. However, within a day or two of putting it up I
noticed that the rod to hang a washcloth from was loose at one end, one
of the spots where two wires were supposed to be welded to each other,
well, they weren't. I managed to get a replacement from the vendor but
they said they didn't want the old one back, which makes me wonder if
there's an economical way to fix it so that I could possibly use it in
the shower in the garage. Is there any adhesive that I could use that
would have a hope of working? Or where would I be likely to find
someone who could weld stainless using stainless filler material?

nate


Cheap method might be a metal epoxy. We fixed a cast iron garden
feature. A bowl/dish sat on the pedestal and was threaded, but was
stripped on the disk. A little two part syringe of metal epoxy fixed
it.

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Default welding/gluing stainless

On 1/24/2009 1:34 PM Oren spake thus:

On Sat, 24 Jan 2009 13:57:43 -0500, Nate Nagel
wrote:

have one of those corner pole caddy things in my bathroom, actually just
bought it not long ago. However, within a day or two of putting it up I
noticed that the rod to hang a washcloth from was loose at one end, one
of the spots where two wires were supposed to be welded to each other,
well, they weren't. I managed to get a replacement from the vendor but
they said they didn't want the old one back, which makes me wonder if
there's an economical way to fix it so that I could possibly use it in
the shower in the garage. Is there any adhesive that I could use that
would have a hope of working? Or where would I be likely to find
someone who could weld stainless using stainless filler material?


Cheap method might be a metal epoxy. We fixed a cast iron garden
feature. A bowl/dish sat on the pedestal and was threaded, but was
stripped on the disk. A little two part syringe of metal epoxy fixed
it.


Won't work on a connection with so little contact area; it'll just break
right off.

Epoxy is good for a lot of repairs, but it has its limits.


--
Made From Pears: Pretty good chance that the product is at least
mostly pears.
Made With Pears: Pretty good chance that pears will be detectable in
the product.
Contains Pears: One pear seed per multiple tons of product.

(with apologies to Dorothy L. Sayers)
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Default welding/gluing stainless

Tony Hwang wrote:
Nate Nagel wrote:
Hi all,

have one of those corner pole caddy things in my bathroom, actually
just bought it not long ago. However, within a day or two of putting
it up I noticed that the rod to hang a washcloth from was loose at one
end, one of the spots where two wires were supposed to be welded to
each other, well, they weren't. I managed to get a replacement from
the vendor but they said they didn't want the old one back, which
makes me wonder if there's an economical way to fix it so that I could
possibly use it in the shower in the garage. Is there any adhesive
that I could use that would have a hope of working? Or where would I
be likely to find someone who could weld stainless using stainless
filler material?

nate

Hi.
How about silver solder brazing?

Be cheaper to buy another one, probably. (Also cheaper than taking to a
welding shop.) For a garage shower, I'd try the wire-wrap thing
somebody else mentioned (think tying a fishing lure), or even a small SS
hose clamp. Doesn't need to be pretty, just strong and rust-resistant.

Actually, I'm jealous. Wish I had a garage shower, for after yard work.
My garage gets awful cold in winter, though.

--
aem sends...


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Default welding/gluing stainless

aemeijers wrote:
Tony Hwang wrote:
Nate Nagel wrote:
Hi all,

have one of those corner pole caddy things in my bathroom, actually
just bought it not long ago. However, within a day or two of putting
it up I noticed that the rod to hang a washcloth from was loose at
one end, one of the spots where two wires were supposed to be welded
to each other, well, they weren't. I managed to get a replacement
from the vendor but they said they didn't want the old one back,
which makes me wonder if there's an economical way to fix it so that
I could possibly use it in the shower in the garage. Is there any
adhesive that I could use that would have a hope of working? Or
where would I be likely to find someone who could weld stainless
using stainless filler material?

nate

Hi.
How about silver solder brazing?

Be cheaper to buy another one, probably. (Also cheaper than taking to a
welding shop.) For a garage shower, I'd try the wire-wrap thing
somebody else mentioned (think tying a fishing lure), or even a small SS
hose clamp. Doesn't need to be pretty, just strong and rust-resistant.

Actually, I'm jealous. Wish I had a garage shower, for after yard work.
My garage gets awful cold in winter, though.

--
aem sends...


yeah, same here. Water is shut off for the winter. Was hoping to be
able to get a heat pump installed out there, but no raises this year.
@#$%#@ stupid economy. Don't be too jealous, it's really badly built
and needs to be redone, but first things first - get some heat out
there, then get the busted VW out. Then maybe redo the shower

nate

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replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
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Default welding/gluing stainless


"Nate Nagel" wrote in message
...
Hi all,

have one of those corner pole caddy things in my bathroom, actually just
bought it not long ago. However, within a day or two of putting it up I
noticed that the rod to hang a washcloth from was loose at one end, one of
the spots where two wires were supposed to be welded to each other, well,
they weren't. I managed to get a replacement from the vendor but they
said they didn't want the old one back, which makes me wonder if there's
an economical way to fix it so that I could possibly use it in the shower
in the garage. Is there any adhesive that I could use that would have a
hope of working? Or where would I be likely to find someone who could
weld stainless using stainless filler material?

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel


To glue I would try JB Weld, scuff up the contact area with sand paper,
clean with rubbing alcohol and glue.

Hose clamps? (Would most likely rust.)

Or how about U-bolts? They come zinc plated and in stainless steel.

Cheers,
Jim


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Default welding/gluing stainless

On Jan 24, 1:56*pm, Nate Nagel wrote:
Joe wrote:
On Jan 24, 12:57 pm, Nate Nagel wrote:


snip


If the welding shop quote seems a tat pricey, you could take advantage
of the compatibility of stainless with silver solder. It can be used
with MAPP gas on small projects although oxyacetylene is faster.
Silver solder is underappreciated IMO, and has excellent strength
properties, yet works at far lower temperatures than common brazing. A
MAPP gas outfit is a lot cheaper than O-A and a nice step up from a
propane torch. HTH


Joe


thanks, I might try that, I already have a MAPP torch (just plain MAPP
though, not oxy-MAPP - does that matter?)

Nate


Your MAPP outfit should work OK, maybe a bit slow if the the parts are
good sized. One thing I learned years ago about silver solder is that
the cheap alloys are hard to work with, terrible, actually. Getting
the molten flux to cover the whole area you're working on is also
rather important. An added trait of silver solder is that it is one of
the best materials around for attaching tungsten carbide pieces to
steel to make one-off special cutting tools for home projects. Hole
saws from pieces of pipe and carbide are an example of a nifty way to
drill out broken toilet bolts in concrete slabs, Naturally, this
doesn't help a shop with a few hammers and rusty wrenches, but not all
SWMBO's are so tight with family funds. HTH

Joe
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Default welding/gluing stainless

Joe wrote:
On Jan 24, 1:56 pm, Nate Nagel wrote:
Joe wrote:
On Jan 24, 12:57 pm, Nate Nagel wrote:


snip


If the welding shop quote seems a tat pricey, you could take advantage
of the compatibility of stainless with silver solder. It can be used
with MAPP gas on small projects although oxyacetylene is faster.
Silver solder is underappreciated IMO, and has excellent strength
properties, yet works at far lower temperatures than common brazing. A
MAPP gas outfit is a lot cheaper than O-A and a nice step up from a
propane torch. HTH
Joe

thanks, I might try that, I already have a MAPP torch (just plain MAPP
though, not oxy-MAPP - does that matter?)

Nate


Your MAPP outfit should work OK, maybe a bit slow if the the parts are
good sized. One thing I learned years ago about silver solder is that
the cheap alloys are hard to work with, terrible, actually. Getting
the molten flux to cover the whole area you're working on is also
rather important. An added trait of silver solder is that it is one of
the best materials around for attaching tungsten carbide pieces to
steel to make one-off special cutting tools for home projects. Hole
saws from pieces of pipe and carbide are an example of a nifty way to
drill out broken toilet bolts in concrete slabs, Naturally, this
doesn't help a shop with a few hammers and rusty wrenches, but not all
SWMBO's are so tight with family funds. HTH

Joe


Could you recommend a product/where to purchase? What flux to use? I
have to admit that this is a whole new area for me...

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
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Default welding/gluing stainless

On Jan 29, 6:34*pm, Nate Nagel wrote:
Joe wrote:
On Jan 24, 1:56 pm, Nate Nagel wrote:
Joe wrote:
On Jan 24, 12:57 pm, Nate Nagel wrote:


snip


If the welding shop quote seems a tat pricey, you could take advantage
of the compatibility of stainless with silver solder. It can be used
with MAPP gas on small projects although oxyacetylene is faster.
Silver solder is underappreciated IMO, and has excellent strength
properties, yet works at far lower temperatures than common brazing. A
MAPP gas outfit is a lot cheaper than O-A and a nice step up from a
propane torch. HTH
Joe
thanks, I might try that, I already have a MAPP torch (just plain MAPP
though, not oxy-MAPP - does that matter?)


Nate


Your MAPP outfit should work OK, maybe a bit slow if the the parts are
good sized. One thing I learned years ago about silver solder is that
the cheap alloys are hard to work with, terrible, actually. Getting
the molten flux to cover the whole area you're working on is also
rather important. An added trait of silver solder is that it is one of
the best materials around for attaching tungsten carbide pieces to
steel to make one-off special cutting tools for home projects. Hole
saws from pieces of pipe and carbide are an example of a nifty way to
drill out broken toilet bolts in concrete slabs, Naturally, this
doesn't help a shop with a few hammers and rusty wrenches, but not all
SWMBO's are so tight with family funds. HTH


Joe


Could you recommend a product/where to purchase? *What flux to use? *I
have to admit that this is a whole new area for me...

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.http://members.cox.net/njnagel


The better welding stores will have complete kits of flux and solder
usually quite modestly priced. The flux tends to dry out easily and
must be kept a bit moist to be useful. This means that when you start
the procedure you apply heat gradually tp dry the flux in place, then
add more heat to melt and flow in the work area. If the solder in the
the kit is hard to work, simply buy a small quantity of better solder
at the store. Performance seems to be directly related to price IMO.
Anyway, the flux supplied in the kits is way more than you will use
with the metal supplied.
Expanding on this topic of brazing, welding supply stores will have
alloys referred to as 'nickel braze'. These are handy for folks that
have O-A outfits. In cases where you need super high strength beyond
ordinary brazing, and MIG or TIG isn't available, this alloy works
super for 4130 steel commonly used by the Experimental Aircraft guys
and sporty car racers. There is probably a NG devoted to this that
might be informative.
Cheers,

Joe
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