Snow blower stopped 'driving' after two passes. Its a very ordinary
about 6 HP horizontal shaft Tecumseh (very similar to B&S) and about
28 inch wide.

Expecting it to be a 'drive chain off' problem, as in the past, took
bottom plate off.

No problem, both chains were on their cogs and the job I did last year
replacing the main wheel bearings and getting the position of the
chain drive cogs in line (so that the chain would not drive off) is
fine.

Everything appears to work; when the drive handle is operated the
friction disk moves (backwards in this case) in whatever position it
is in from Fast Forward to Reverse (all that works OK). The friction
disk does contact the rubber drive pulley and the rubber pulley is
properly attached to its cross shaft and turns it. There is spare
travel so it is not that the friction disk is not moving far enough or
anything is restricting its contact with the rubber pulley.

However and this is the question. The friction plate is pretty shiny
in most areas, also the rubber pulley is also shiny. So much so that
at first thought it was polished or even oily. It's not.

So should I 'roughen up' the friction plate, sand paper or grind/sand
disc it off? Same with the rubber pulley wheel (it's about 4 inch
diameter and has like a rubber tire on its perimeter.

Because the only thing at moment is that while we do need to tune up
the motor, adjust the carb, we have installed new plug, and brand new
belts of the right type etc. The main problem was that it stopped
driving (moving ahead or back). Could 'slipping' cause all that even
at lowest speed?

Moving it manually into garage to work on, I noticed we have a very
bad skid plate on one side; that was also 'hooking' into the ground
and causing part of the problem too!

Any advice welcomed (begged!).

terry wrote:
Snow blower stopped 'driving' after two passes. Its a very ordinary
about 6 HP horizontal shaft Tecumseh (very similar to B&S) and about
28 inch wide.

Expecting it to be a 'drive chain off' problem, as in the past, took
bottom plate off.

No problem, both chains were on their cogs and the job I did last year
replacing the main wheel bearings and getting the position of the
chain drive cogs in line (so that the chain would not drive off) is
fine.

Everything appears to work; when the drive handle is operated the
friction disk moves (backwards in this case) in whatever position it
is in from Fast Forward to Reverse (all that works OK). The friction
disk does contact the rubber drive pulley and the rubber pulley is
properly attached to its cross shaft and turns it. There is spare
travel so it is not that the friction disk is not moving far enough or
anything is restricting its contact with the rubber pulley.

However and this is the question. The friction plate is pretty shiny
in most areas, also the rubber pulley is also shiny. So much so that
at first thought it was polished or even oily. It's not.

So should I 'roughen up' the friction plate, sand paper or grind/sand
disc it off? Same with the rubber pulley wheel (it's about 4 inch
diameter and has like a rubber tire on its perimeter.

Because the only thing at moment is that while we do need to tune up
the motor, adjust the carb, we have installed new plug, and brand new
belts of the right type etc. The main problem was that it stopped
driving (moving ahead or back). Could 'slipping' cause all that even
at lowest speed?

Moving it manually into garage to work on, I noticed we have a very
bad skid plate on one side; that was also 'hooking' into the ground
and causing part of the problem too!

Any advice welcomed (begged!).


I'm gonna venture a guess that there should be some kind of spring which
pulls the rubber wheel against the friction disk, whereafter the
geometery and driving force on the rubber wheel acts to press it even
harder against the friction disk.

And, that spring broke and got lost.

Can you scout up a manual for your snow blower which would have a
drawing showing if there should be a spring there?

Good Luck,

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

On Sun, 4 Jan 2009 12:33:22 -0800 (PST), terry
wrote:

Snow blower stopped 'driving' after two passes. Its a very ordinary
about 6 HP horizontal shaft Tecumseh (very similar to B&S) and about
28 inch wide.

Expecting it to be a 'drive chain off' problem, as in the past, took
bottom plate off.

No problem, both chains were on their cogs and the job I did last year
replacing the main wheel bearings and getting the position of the
chain drive cogs in line (so that the chain would not drive off) is
fine.

Everything appears to work; when the drive handle is operated the
friction disk moves (backwards in this case) in whatever position it
is in from Fast Forward to Reverse (all that works OK). The friction
disk does contact the rubber drive pulley and the rubber pulley is
properly attached to its cross shaft and turns it. There is spare
travel so it is not that the friction disk is not moving far enough or
anything is restricting its contact with the rubber pulley.

However and this is the question. The friction plate is pretty shiny
in most areas, also the rubber pulley is also shiny. So much so that
at first thought it was polished or even oily. It's not.

So should I 'roughen up' the friction plate, sand paper or grind/sand
disc it off? Same with the rubber pulley wheel (it's about 4 inch
diameter and has like a rubber tire on its perimeter.

Because the only thing at moment is that while we do need to tune up
the motor, adjust the carb, we have installed new plug, and brand new
belts of the right type etc. The main problem was that it stopped
driving (moving ahead or back). Could 'slipping' cause all that even
at lowest speed?

Moving it manually into garage to work on, I noticed we have a very
bad skid plate on one side; that was also 'hooking' into the ground
and causing part of the problem too!

Any advice welcomed (begged!).


When the friction drive gets wet, it doesn't drive if the rubber and
the plate are glazed. Try a shot of oven cleaner on the plate - the
caustic will remove any oil and etch the glaze. It also puts a bit of
"tooth" on the rubber. Rinse well about 20 minutes after application
and let dry before using.

On Jan 4, 6:55*pm, wrote:
On Sun, 4 Jan 2009 12:33:22 -0800 (PST), terry





wrote:
Snow blower stopped 'driving' after two passes. Its a very ordinary
about 6 HP horizontal shaft Tecumseh (very similar to B&S) and about
28 inch wide.

Expecting it to be a 'drive chain off' problem, as in the past, took
bottom plate off.

No problem, both chains were on their cogs and the job I did last year
replacing the main wheel bearings and getting the position of the
chain drive cogs in line (so that the chain would not drive off) is
fine.

Everything appears to work; when the drive handle is operated the
friction disk moves (backwards in this case) in whatever position it
is in from Fast Forward to Reverse (all that works OK). The friction
disk does contact the rubber drive pulley and the rubber pulley is
properly attached to its cross shaft and turns it. *There is spare
travel so it is not that the friction disk is not moving far enough or
anything is restricting its contact with the rubber pulley.

However and this is the question. The friction plate is pretty shiny
in most areas, also the rubber pulley is also shiny. So much so that
at first thought it was polished or even oily. It's not.

So should I 'roughen up' the friction plate, sand paper or grind/sand
disc it off? Same with the rubber pulley wheel (it's about 4 inch
diameter and has like a rubber tire on its perimeter.

Because the only thing at moment is that while we do need to tune up
the motor, adjust the carb, we have installed new plug, and brand new
belts of the right type etc. *The main problem was that it stopped
driving (moving ahead or back). Could 'slipping' cause all that even
at lowest speed?

Moving it manually into garage to work on, *I noticed we have a very
bad skid plate on one side; that was also *'hooking' into the ground
and causing part of the problem too!

Any advice welcomed (begged!).

When the friction drive gets wet, it doesn't drive if the rubber and
the plate are glazed. Try a shot of oven cleaner on the plate - the
caustic will remove any oil and etch the glaze. It also puts a bit of
"tooth" on the rubber. Rinse well about 20 minutes after application
and let dry before using.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The friction plate is moved into contact with the rubber wheel by
pulling the drive lever/handle. A cable from the lever moves the
friction plate via a spring in the cable into position it appears to
be moving all the way and the spring in the cable doesn't seem to be
tired/weak. The spring determines how much pressure is exerted to pull
the friction plate onto the rubber drive wheel.
But will tighten up cable and clean friction plate as suggested.
Thanks for suggestions.

On Jan 5, 1:13*am, terry wrote:
On Jan 4, 6:55*pm, wrote:



On Sun, 4 Jan 2009 12:33:22 -0800 (PST), terry

wrote:
Snow blower stopped 'driving' after two passes. Its a very ordinary
about 6 HP horizontal shaft Tecumseh (very similar to B&S) and about
28 inch wide.

Expecting it to be a 'drive chain off' problem, as in the past, took
bottom plate off.

No problem, both chains were on their cogs and the job I did last year
replacing the main wheel bearings and getting the position of the
chain drive cogs in line (so that the chain would not drive off) is
fine.

Everything appears to work; when the drive handle is operated the
friction disk moves (backwards in this case) in whatever position it
is in from Fast Forward to Reverse (all that works OK). The friction
disk does contact the rubber drive pulley and the rubber pulley is
properly attached to its cross shaft and turns it. *There is spare
travel so it is not that the friction disk is not moving far enough or
anything is restricting its contact with the rubber pulley.

However and this is the question. The friction plate is pretty shiny
in most areas, also the rubber pulley is also shiny. So much so that
at first thought it was polished or even oily. It's not.

So should I 'roughen up' the friction plate, sand paper or grind/sand
disc it off? Same with the rubber pulley wheel (it's about 4 inch
diameter and has like a rubber tire on its perimeter.

Because the only thing at moment is that while we do need to tune up
the motor, adjust the carb, we have installed new plug, and brand new
belts of the right type etc. *The main problem was that it stopped
driving (moving ahead or back). Could 'slipping' cause all that even
at lowest speed?

Moving it manually into garage to work on, *I noticed we have a very
bad skid plate on one side; that was also *'hooking' into the ground
and causing part of the problem too!

Any advice welcomed (begged!).

When the friction drive gets wet, it doesn't drive if the rubber and
the plate are glazed. Try a shot of oven cleaner on the plate - the
caustic will remove any oil and etch the glaze. It also puts a bit of
"tooth" on the rubber. Rinse well about 20 minutes after application
and let dry before using.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The friction plate is moved into contact with the rubber wheel by
pulling the drive lever/handle. A cable from the lever moves the
friction plate via a spring in the cable into position it appears to
be moving all the way and the spring in the cable doesn't seem to be
tired/weak. The spring determines how much pressure is exerted to pull
the friction plate onto the rubber drive wheel.
But will tighten up cable and clean friction plate as suggested.
Thanks for suggestions.

Chain drives the wheels...but a V-belt drives the plate. Is the belt
glazed or loose?

On Sun, 04 Jan 2009 16:48:39 -0500, Jeff Wisnia
wrote:

terry wrote:
Snow blower stopped 'driving' after two passes. Its a very ordinary
about 6 HP horizontal shaft Tecumseh (very similar to B&S) and about
28 inch wide.

Expecting it to be a 'drive chain off' problem, as in the past, took
bottom plate off.

No problem, both chains were on their cogs and the job I did last year
replacing the main wheel bearings and getting the position of the
chain drive cogs in line (so that the chain would not drive off) is
fine.

Everything appears to work; when the drive handle is operated the
friction disk moves (backwards in this case) in whatever position it
is in from Fast Forward to Reverse (all that works OK). The friction
disk does contact the rubber drive pulley and the rubber pulley is
properly attached to its cross shaft and turns it. There is spare
travel so it is not that the friction disk is not moving far enough or
anything is restricting its contact with the rubber pulley.

However and this is the question. The friction plate is pretty shiny
in most areas, also the rubber pulley is also shiny. So much so that
at first thought it was polished or even oily. It's not.

So should I 'roughen up' the friction plate, sand paper or grind/sand
disc it off? Same with the rubber pulley wheel (it's about 4 inch
diameter and has like a rubber tire on its perimeter.

Because the only thing at moment is that while we do need to tune up
the motor, adjust the carb, we have installed new plug, and brand new
belts of the right type etc. The main problem was that it stopped
driving (moving ahead or back). Could 'slipping' cause all that even
at lowest speed?

Moving it manually into garage to work on, I noticed we have a very
bad skid plate on one side; that was also 'hooking' into the ground
and causing part of the problem too!

Any advice welcomed (begged!).


I'm gonna venture a guess that there should be some kind of spring which
pulls the rubber wheel against the friction disk, whereafter the
geometery and driving force on the rubber wheel acts to press it even
harder against the friction disk.

And, that spring broke and got lost.

Can you scout up a manual for your snow blower which would have a
drawing showing if there should be a spring there?

Good Luck,

Jeff
I'd venture to bet your guess is wrong, from 40 years experience
using snow blowers (and fixing the durn things)

On Mon, 05 Jan 2009 13:48:28 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 05 Jan 2009 13:31:41 -0500, wrote:

On Sun, 04 Jan 2009 16:48:39 -0500, Jeff Wisnia
wrote:

terry wrote:
Snow blower stopped 'driving' after two passes. Its a very ordinary
about 6 HP horizontal shaft Tecumseh (very similar to B&S) and about
28 inch wide.

Expecting it to be a 'drive chain off' problem, as in the past, took
bottom plate off.

No problem, both chains were on their cogs and the job I did last year
replacing the main wheel bearings and getting the position of the
chain drive cogs in line (so that the chain would not drive off) is
fine.

Everything appears to work; when the drive handle is operated the
friction disk moves (backwards in this case) in whatever position it
is in from Fast Forward to Reverse (all that works OK). The friction
disk does contact the rubber drive pulley and the rubber pulley is
properly attached to its cross shaft and turns it. There is spare
travel so it is not that the friction disk is not moving far enough or
anything is restricting its contact with the rubber pulley.

However and this is the question. The friction plate is pretty shiny
in most areas, also the rubber pulley is also shiny. So much so that
at first thought it was polished or even oily. It's not.

So should I 'roughen up' the friction plate, sand paper or grind/sand
disc it off? Same with the rubber pulley wheel (it's about 4 inch
diameter and has like a rubber tire on its perimeter.

Because the only thing at moment is that while we do need to tune up
the motor, adjust the carb, we have installed new plug, and brand new
belts of the right type etc. The main problem was that it stopped
driving (moving ahead or back). Could 'slipping' cause all that even
at lowest speed?

Moving it manually into garage to work on, I noticed we have a very
bad skid plate on one side; that was also 'hooking' into the ground
and causing part of the problem too!

Any advice welcomed (begged!).


I'm gonna venture a guess that there should be some kind of spring which
pulls the rubber wheel against the friction disk, whereafter the
geometery and driving force on the rubber wheel acts to press it even
harder against the friction disk.

And, that spring broke and got lost.

Can you scout up a manual for your snow blower which would have a
drawing showing if there should be a spring there?

Good Luck,

Jeff
I'd venture to bet your guess is wrong, from 40 years experience
using snow blowers (and fixing the durn things)

The actuating cable may have a little too much slack in it and need
adjustment. If it is too slack, the friction disk will slip. This is a
VERY easy adjustment to do.

You can probably download an owners manual from the manufacturers
website that will have instructions. It has to do with measuring the
distance between the end of the lever and the handlebar under certain
conditions.

A glazed disk and drive wheel will slip when wet regardless of the
cable adjustment. My last blower brfore my current one had a solid
mechanical linkage through a spring and it slipped when wet untill I
replaced both the metal and rubber components.