My house was built in 1988. As far as I know, the windows were bought from
Lowe's. Today, my son's dog chewed up a window ledge or sill (inside). It
appears that the piece that needs to be replaced was installed as a complete
unit. It appears that the entire window has to come out. My guess is that it
will be impossible to match the style of the wood.

In trying to understand how the window frame is assembled, I removed the "skirt"
beneath an identical window in the bathroom. It had been (poorly) secured when
it was nailed with a nail gun. Some of the nails missed the underlying wood
frame. When I removed the piece, I noticed that the window seems to be poorly
installed. Cold air leaks around the frame. The big question, though, is how do
I back the nails out without splintering the face of the molding? When I tapped
them out, the face splintered, even after I removed the colored filler putty
that was used to fill the nail holes. Should I have pulled them through?

Do you have any suggestions on repairing the window frame? My carpentry skills
are not good, nor am I familiar with which window parts are available for
purchase at Lowe's or Home Depot. Is there a company that can likely match the
molding? Does anyone want a dog?

mcp6453 wrote:
My house was built in 1988. As far as I know, the windows were bought
from Lowe's. Today, my son's dog chewed up a window ledge or sill
(inside). It appears that the piece that needs to be replaced was
installed as a complete unit. It appears that the entire window has to
come out. My guess is that it will be impossible to match the style of
the wood.

In trying to understand how the window frame is assembled, I removed the
"skirt" beneath an identical window in the bathroom. It had been
(poorly) secured when it was nailed with a nail gun. Some of the nails
missed the underlying wood frame. When I removed the piece, I noticed
that the window seems to be poorly installed. Cold air leaks around the
frame. The big question, though, is how do I back the nails out without
splintering the face of the molding? When I tapped them out, the face
splintered, even after I removed the colored filler putty that was used
to fill the nail holes. Should I have pulled them through?

Do you have any suggestions on repairing the window frame? My carpentry
skills are not good, nor am I familiar with which window parts are
available for purchase at Lowe's or Home Depot. Is there a company that
can likely match the molding? Does anyone want a dog?

A contractor bought windows at Lowes? NOT a good sign, sadly. Sounds
like they did a slap-dash install, and didn't flash or insulate
properly. This is not a good first DIY project. A real window company
(not Lowes) would be glad to come and remove and properly reinstall, but
that would cost a fortune, especially if you have siding over the window
flanges. (I'm assuming these were 'new construction' windows). If the
windows operate properly and don't rattle in the wind, all you may need
to do is remove the inside casing and the apron under the sill, and fill
the space with low-expansion foam in a can, or stuff it full of
fiberglass. Caulking the cracks on the outside can also make a world of
difference. Note that the inside trim often did not come with the
window, and was field-applied to match the style used elsewhere in the
house. You do need a good miter box to cut and fit trim, especially if
it is stained instead of painted. (Painted, you can fake it with putty
or caulk in any gaps.)

I'd ask around and try to find a semi-retired trim carpenter, that would
be willing to work with you, one window at a time at a reasonable fee,
until you mastered enough skills to finish the work yourself. It isn't
that hard, but it is one of those things you almost have to learn in
person, not from words or pictures in a DIY book.

As to your specific questions- yes, you pull the nails through the back
of the trim with vise-grips or fence pliers. If it is too messed up,
1988 trim styles should not be hard to match pretty closely. And as to
the chewed-up windowsill- if it is painted, you can usually fix with
epoxy filler, unless the damage is real bad. On old-style windows, the
sill was a separate board, and could be replaced by a fabricated piece.
If the sill and lower jamb are one piece, it gets a lot harder- you
basically have to carve away the old one in place, and make a square
empty spot that you can piece in with new material. Lots of tedious
plane and chisel work- that is almost Norm Abrams territory. May
actually be cheaper to replace the whole window (if you can match it),
and save the old one for spare parts to use in other rooms.

--
aem sends...

"mcp6453" wrote in message
...
My house was built in 1988. As far as I know, the windows were bought from
Lowe's. Today, my son's dog chewed up a window ledge or sill (inside). It
appears that the piece that needs to be replaced was installed as a complete
unit. It appears that the entire window has to come out. My guess is that it
will be impossible to match the style of the wood.

In trying to understand how the window frame is assembled, I removed the
"skirt" beneath an identical window in the bathroom. It had been (poorly)
secured when it was nailed with a nail gun. Some of the nails missed the
underlying wood frame. When I removed the piece, I noticed that the window
seems to be poorly installed. Cold air leaks around the frame. The big
question, though, is how do I back the nails out without splintering the face
of the molding? When I tapped them out, the face splintered, even after I
removed the colored filler putty that was used to fill the nail holes. Should
I have pulled them through?

If you can't pull the nails through as someone else suggested, Brace the face
where the head is firmly against a solid braced piece of wood as you tap the
heads through. Once they'v penetrated the chunk of wood a bit (1/8"?), then lift
it and finish the job.

On Jan 2, 9:29*pm, "Bob F" wrote:
"mcp6453" wrote in message

...

My house was built in 1988. As far as I know, the windows were bought from
Lowe's. Today, my son's dog chewed up a window ledge or sill (inside). It
appears that the piece that needs to be replaced was installed as a complete
unit. It appears that the entire window has to come out. My guess is that it
will be impossible to match the style of the wood.

In trying to understand how the window frame is assembled, I removed the
"skirt" beneath an identical window in the bathroom. It had been (poorly)
secured when it was nailed with a nail gun. Some of the nails missed the
underlying wood frame. When I removed the piece, I noticed that the window
seems to be poorly installed. Cold air leaks around the frame. The big
question, though, is how do I back the nails out without splintering the face
of the molding? When I tapped them out, the face splintered, even after I
removed the colored filler putty that was used to fill the nail holes. Should
I have pulled them through?

If you can't pull the nails through as someone else suggested, Brace the face
where the head is firmly against a solid braced piece of wood as you tap the
heads through. Once they'v penetrated the chunk of wood a bit (1/8"?), then lift
it and finish the job.

You have to pull the wood trim off slowly and carefully using multiple
pulling points. I find wide putty knives work fairly well. Then
using pliers you have to pull the nails all the way thru the wood
exiting on the back side. If the back side splinters, you can reglue
using wood glue if it is really bad, otherwise ignore. You can reuse
the holes on the front if you nail at an angle so that most of the
nail is going thru new wood.

On Jan 2, 5:56*pm, mcp6453 wrote:
My house was built in 1988. As far as I know, the windows were bought from
Lowe's. Today, my son's dog chewed up a window ledge or sill (inside). It
appears that the piece that needs to be replaced was installed as a complete
unit. It appears that the entire window has to come out. My guess is that it
will be impossible to match the style of the wood.

In trying to understand how the window frame is assembled, I removed the "skirt"
beneath an identical window in the bathroom. It had been (poorly) secured when
it was nailed with a nail gun. Some of the nails missed the underlying wood
frame. When I removed the piece, I noticed that the window seems to be poorly
installed. Cold air leaks around the frame. The big question, though, is how do
I back the nails out without splintering the face of the molding? When I tapped
them out, the face splintered, even after I removed the colored filler putty
that was used to fill the nail holes. Should I have pulled them through?

Do you have any suggestions on repairing the window frame? My carpentry skills
are not good, nor am I familiar with which window parts are available for
purchase at Lowe's or Home Depot. Is there a company that can likely match the
molding? Does anyone want a dog?

Bondo.

On 1ÔÂ3ÈÕ, ÉÏÎç7ʱ56·Ö, mcp6453 wrote:
Does anyone want a dog?

I want one, how old is it?

aemeijers wrote:
mcp6453 wrote:
My house was built in 1988. As far as I know, the windows were bought
from Lowe's. Today, my son's dog chewed up a window ledge or sill
(inside). It appears that the piece that needs to be replaced was
installed as a complete unit. It appears that the entire window has to
come out. My guess is that it will be impossible to match the style of
the wood.

In trying to understand how the window frame is assembled, I removed
the "skirt" beneath an identical window in the bathroom. It had been
(poorly) secured when it was nailed with a nail gun. Some of the nails
missed the underlying wood frame. When I removed the piece, I noticed
that the window seems to be poorly installed. Cold air leaks around
the frame. The big question, though, is how do I back the nails out
without splintering the face of the molding? When I tapped them out,
the face splintered, even after I removed the colored filler putty
that was used to fill the nail holes. Should I have pulled them through?

Do you have any suggestions on repairing the window frame? My
carpentry skills are not good, nor am I familiar with which window
parts are available for purchase at Lowe's or Home Depot. Is there a
company that can likely match the molding? Does anyone want a dog?

A contractor bought windows at Lowes? NOT a good sign, sadly. Sounds
like they did a slap-dash install, and didn't flash or insulate
properly. This is not a good first DIY project. A real window company
(not Lowes) would be glad to come and remove and properly reinstall, but
that would cost a fortune, especially if you have siding over the window
flanges. (I'm assuming these were 'new construction' windows). If the
windows operate properly and don't rattle in the wind, all you may need
to do is remove the inside casing and the apron under the sill, and fill
the space with low-expansion foam in a can, or stuff it full of
fiberglass. Caulking the cracks on the outside can also make a world of
difference. Note that the inside trim often did not come with the
window, and was field-applied to match the style used elsewhere in the
house. You do need a good miter box to cut and fit trim, especially if
it is stained instead of painted. (Painted, you can fake it with putty
or caulk in any gaps.)

I'd ask around and try to find a semi-retired trim carpenter, that would
be willing to work with you, one window at a time at a reasonable fee,
until you mastered enough skills to finish the work yourself. It isn't
that hard, but it is one of those things you almost have to learn in
person, not from words or pictures in a DIY book.

As to your specific questions- yes, you pull the nails through the back
of the trim with vise-grips or fence pliers. If it is too messed up,
1988 trim styles should not be hard to match pretty closely. And as to
the chewed-up windowsill- if it is painted, you can usually fix with
epoxy filler, unless the damage is real bad. On old-style windows, the
sill was a separate board, and could be replaced by a fabricated piece.
If the sill and lower jamb are one piece, it gets a lot harder- you
basically have to carve away the old one in place, and make a square
empty spot that you can piece in with new material. Lots of tedious
plane and chisel work- that is almost Norm Abrams territory. May
actually be cheaper to replace the whole window (if you can match it),
and save the old one for spare parts to use in other rooms.


Thanks for the suggestions so far. Unfortunately, the wood is stained, so my
options are extremely limited.

"mcp6453" wrote in message
...
My house was built in 1988. As far as I know, the windows were bought from
Lowe's. Today, my son's dog chewed up a window ledge or sill (inside). It
appears that the piece that needs to be replaced was installed as a
complete unit. It appears that the entire window has to come out. My guess
is that it will be impossible to match the style of the wood.


This is one of those times where a picture can save you and us a 1000
useless posts.

If the window had a sill (a projecting part) that can be replaced without
much work.

If the window was picture framed and the dog chewed the bottom portion of
the window unit, you have a bigger problem.. It can still be repaired but
is more difficult.

There are tons of place to host a free image and post a link here.


Colbyt

On Jan 3, 9:09*am, ransley wrote:
On Jan 2, 5:56*pm, mcp6453 wrote:





My house was built in 1988. As far as I know, the windows were bought from
Lowe's. Today, my son's dog chewed up a window ledge or sill (inside). It
appears that the piece that needs to be replaced was installed as a complete
unit. It appears that the entire window has to come out. My guess is that it
will be impossible to match the style of the wood.

In trying to understand how the window frame is assembled, I removed the "skirt"
beneath an identical window in the bathroom. It had been (poorly) secured when
it was nailed with a nail gun. Some of the nails missed the underlying wood
frame. When I removed the piece, I noticed that the window seems to be poorly
installed. Cold air leaks around the frame. The big question, though, is how do
I back the nails out without splintering the face of the molding? When I tapped
them out, the face splintered, even after I removed the colored filler putty
that was used to fill the nail holes. Should I have pulled them through?

Do you have any suggestions on repairing the window frame? My carpentry skills
are not good, nor am I familiar with which window parts are available for
purchase at Lowe's or Home Depot. Is there a company that can likely match the
molding? Does anyone want a dog?

Bondo.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I started to offer bondo as a suggestion until I saw a post stating
that the sill is stained. I've never tried staining bondo, but even if
it took, I doubt it would match the existing wood.