I'm having a problem with an Estate gas dryer, model # TGDS740PQ.

One of the symptoms is that the Timer knob moves when in Timed Drying
mode, but not when in AutoSense mode. The other symptom is that it
takes a long time to dry a load in any mode. Even when the clothes are
completely dry, the AutoSense knob, which should move towards Off once
the clothes are dry, never moves. The dryer would run forever if I let
it.

I should point out that the clothes are not always warm when I check
them, whether they are wet or dry. Sometimes they are dry and toasty
warm, sometimes they are dry and cool, sometimes they are wet and
warm, sometimes wet and cool. My understanding of the way the cycling
thermostat works, they should *never* be wet and cool. But even if the
cycling thermostat was bad, why would that cause the knob to not move
in AutoSense mode?

I looked at all the parts for my dryer at the following site and can't
find anything that looks like a moisture sensor. How does a dryer
sense the moisture and decide when it's done?

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/pa...del_id=5138494

BTW, before anyone mentions it - I tore the dryer apart this weekend
and cleaned it from the opening in the back of the drum all the way
out to the vent. This didn't help, but there wasn't enough lint to
have caused a problem in any case.

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...
I'm having a problem with an Estate gas dryer, model # TGDS740PQ.

One of the symptoms is that the Timer knob moves when in Timed Drying
mode, but not when in AutoSense mode. The other symptom is that it
takes a long time to dry a load in any mode. Even when the clothes are
completely dry, the AutoSense knob, which should move towards Off once
the clothes are dry, never moves. The dryer would run forever if I let
it.

I should point out that the clothes are not always warm when I check
them, whether they are wet or dry. Sometimes they are dry and toasty
warm, sometimes they are dry and cool, sometimes they are wet and
warm, sometimes wet and cool. My understanding of the way the cycling
thermostat works, they should *never* be wet and cool. But even if the
cycling thermostat was bad, why would that cause the knob to not move
in AutoSense mode?

I looked at all the parts for my dryer at the following site and can't
find anything that looks like a moisture sensor. How does a dryer
sense the moisture and decide when it's done?

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/pa...del_id=5138494

BTW, before anyone mentions it - I tore the dryer apart this weekend
and cleaned it from the opening in the back of the drum all the way
out to the vent. This didn't help, but there wasn't enough lint to
have caused a problem in any case.


The first thing I'd try is to take it outside, and blow out all the internal air
passages with compressed air or a leaf blower. Gathered lint can cause all kinds
of problems.

On Nov 17, 12:44*pm, "Bob F" wrote:
"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

...





I'm having a problem with an Estate gas dryer, model # TGDS740PQ.

One of the symptoms is that the Timer knob moves when in Timed Drying
mode, but not when in AutoSense mode. The other symptom is that it
takes a long time to dry a load in any mode. Even when the clothes are
completely dry, the AutoSense knob, which should move towards Off once
the clothes are dry, never moves. The dryer would run forever if I let
it.

I should point out that the clothes are not always warm when I check
them, whether they are wet or dry. Sometimes they are dry and toasty
warm, sometimes they are dry and cool, sometimes they are wet and
warm, sometimes wet and cool. My understanding of the way the cycling
thermostat works, they should *never* be wet and cool. But even if the
cycling thermostat was bad, why would that cause the knob to not move
in AutoSense mode?

I looked at all the parts for my dryer at the following site and can't
find anything that looks like a moisture sensor. How does a dryer
sense the moisture and decide when it's done?

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/pa...del_id=5138494

BTW, before anyone mentions it - I tore the dryer apart this weekend
and cleaned it from the opening in the back of the drum all the way
out to the vent. This didn't help, but there wasn't enough lint to
have caused a problem in any case.

The first thing I'd try is to take it outside, and blow out all the internal air
passages with compressed air or a leaf blower. Gathered lint can cause all kinds
of problems.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Perhaps you misunderstood my last paragraph.

As I said, I cleaned it from opening in the back of the *drum* all the
way out to the vent, not just from the back of the dryer where the
exhaust hose attaches.

This included the internal ductwork, the fan housing, the lint trap
holder and any other place where dust could collect. Air flow is not
the issue.

And for my trouble, I am about a $1.50 richer in loose change.

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...

And for my trouble, I am about a $1.50 richer in loose change.

It costs $2.50 to repair. Give it more time, or leave more change in your
pockets.

"PanHandler" wrote in message
. ..

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...

And for my trouble, I am about a $1.50 richer in loose change.

It costs $2.50 to repair. Give it more time, or leave more change in your
pockets.

I wonder how much change is trapped in old, scrapped appliances. Figger
$1.50 average?

On Nov 17, 2:44*pm, "PanHandler" wrote:
"PanHandler" wrote in message

. ..



"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
....

And for my trouble, I am about a $1.50 richer in loose change.

It costs $2.50 to repair. Give it more time, or leave more change in your
pockets.

I wonder how much change is trapped in old, scrapped appliances. Figger
$1.50 average?

This was a $1.50 in a 4 YO dryer. Older ones might have much more.

BTW - The very nice lady at the appliance parts store said it's
probably the gas valve coils. If they won't keep the burner on long
enough, the clothes will eventually dry, but if it never reaches full
temp, the Cycling Thermostat won't advance the AutoSense Timer.

She said it's $32 for the coils which go bad pretty often and $27 for
the Cycling Thermostat, which almost *never* goes bad. She said if it
was her money, she bet the extra $5 to replace the most likely cause.

"DerbyDad03" wrote:

She said it's $32 for the coils which go bad pretty often and $27 for
the Cycling Thermostat, which almost *never* goes bad. She said if it
was her money, she bet the extra $5 to replace the most likely cause.

They go bad all the time, and are a five to ten dollar part. There are two
to three (sometimes more) thermostats in a dryer. It's easy enough to
remove them (one at a time, label the wires, after unplugging the unit, et
cetera), hook them up to a VOM, then dunk them in hot water to check for a
state change. Take you maybe 15 minutes, and will give you actual
information that you can use, instead of throwing parts at it.

Jon

On Nov 17, 4:26*pm, "Jon Danniken"
wrote:
"DerbyDad03" wrote:

$5 to $10 where?

The best I've seen is ~$20, online with shipping.

Look over at ebay.

Jon

No need...the lady at the parts store was right. I replaced the coils
tonight and the dryer is as good as new.

Thanks anyway.