I found a leak in my sprinkler line - I thought I was done, then as soon as
I fixed one leak, the one downstream gets enough pressure and bust out.

The line is 1-1/4" PVC sch 40 line, when I locate and bug up the leak I
usually dig a hole say 12" in diameter 8" deep so I have room to work with.
I cut a short section of the pipe out (like 6"), then glue a new section
back in, with a coupler on each end.

This sounds simple and easy, however, I am really having a hard time with
this as the pipe diameter is so large that there is no flex, so once I glue
one end on, the other end just will not go in. I ended up having to cut the
pipe such that only 1/4" goes into the socket of the coupling, and I had to
struggle a long time to even get that much to go in.

I am sure I am not doing it right and there must be an easier way.

Thanks in advance,

MC

Are you sure you have the right couplings for the pipe? There are some very
similar size PVC pipes. Make sure you aren't just guessing it is schedule
40. Look for markings on the pipe.


"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
I found a leak in my sprinkler line - I thought I was done, then as soon as
I fixed one leak, the one downstream gets enough pressure and bust out.

The line is 1-1/4" PVC sch 40 line, when I locate and bug up the leak I
usually dig a hole say 12" in diameter 8" deep so I have room to work
with. I cut a short section of the pipe out (like 6"), then glue a new
section back in, with a coupler on each end.

This sounds simple and easy, however, I am really having a hard time with
this as the pipe diameter is so large that there is no flex, so once I
glue one end on, the other end just will not go in. I ended up having to
cut the pipe such that only 1/4" goes into the socket of the coupling, and
I had to struggle a long time to even get that much to go in.

I am sure I am not doing it right and there must be an easier way.

Thanks in advance,

MC

You would be best to dig until you get to bend, and then dig a few feet past
the bend. That way you can move the pipe at the break back and forth so that
it gets fully seated in the new couplings.

An alternative is to use a clamp-on repair kit. It clamps over the existing
pipe without having to move it back and forth. Personally, I'd just dig up
enough pipe so that I could get it properly seated in the couplings.

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
I found a leak in my sprinkler line - I thought I was done, then as soon as
I fixed one leak, the one downstream gets enough pressure and bust out.

The line is 1-1/4" PVC sch 40 line, when I locate and bug up the leak I
usually dig a hole say 12" in diameter 8" deep so I have room to work
with. I cut a short section of the pipe out (like 6"), then glue a new
section back in, with a coupler on each end.

This sounds simple and easy, however, I am really having a hard time with
this as the pipe diameter is so large that there is no flex, so once I
glue one end on, the other end just will not go in. I ended up having to
cut the pipe such that only 1/4" goes into the socket of the coupling, and
I had to struggle a long time to even get that much to go in.

I am sure I am not doing it right and there must be an easier way.

Thanks in advance,

MC

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
I found a leak in my sprinkler line - I thought I was done, then as soon as
I fixed one leak, the one downstream gets enough pressure and bust out.

The line is 1-1/4" PVC sch 40 line, when I locate and bug up the leak I
usually dig a hole say 12" in diameter 8" deep so I have room to work
with. I cut a short section of the pipe out (like 6"), then glue a new
section back in, with a coupler on each end.

This sounds simple and easy, however, I am really having a hard time with
this as the pipe diameter is so large that there is no flex, so once I
glue one end on, the other end just will not go in. I ended up having to
cut the pipe such that only 1/4" goes into the socket of the coupling, and
I had to struggle a long time to even get that much to go in.

I am sure I am not doing it right and there must be an easier way.

Thanks in advance,

MC
Cut the bad section out put a 90 on cut ends then just pipe a U shape.
They do make a slip coupling
http://www.clearpvcpipe.com/index.as...ATS&Category=8 not
cheap

The couplings are exact size, the clearance I need is in the longitudinal
direction to be able to get them apart enough so one can fit over the other.


"Art" wrote in message
m...
Are you sure you have the right couplings for the pipe? There are some
very similar size PVC pipes. Make sure you aren't just guessing it is
schedule 40. Look for markings on the pipe.


"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
I found a leak in my sprinkler line - I thought I was done, then as soon
as I fixed one leak, the one downstream gets enough pressure and bust out.

The line is 1-1/4" PVC sch 40 line, when I locate and bug up the leak I
usually dig a hole say 12" in diameter 8" deep so I have room to work
with. I cut a short section of the pipe out (like 6"), then glue a new
section back in, with a coupler on each end.

This sounds simple and easy, however, I am really having a hard time with
this as the pipe diameter is so large that there is no flex, so once I
glue one end on, the other end just will not go in. I ended up having to
cut the pipe such that only 1/4" goes into the socket of the coupling,
and I had to struggle a long time to even get that much to go in.

I am sure I am not doing it right and there must be an easier way.

Thanks in advance,

MC

I would do that, but that's when I ran into roots, gravel etc...so it's
difficult. The pipe diameter is too large to give a bend with a short
distance...I might have to dig 8-10' to make it work. I thought may be
there is a coupling that is not socketxsocket but just a slip coupling that
will allow me to apply the solvent, slide onto one pipe, align the two,
apply cement to both end, and in a split second slide the slip coupling back
ontot both pipes. But I could find no such thing.

Thanks,

MC

"Zoot" wrote in message
...
You would be best to dig until you get to bend, and then dig a few feet
past the bend. That way you can move the pipe at the break back and forth
so that it gets fully seated in the new couplings.

An alternative is to use a clamp-on repair kit. It clamps over the
existing pipe without having to move it back and forth. Personally, I'd
just dig up enough pipe so that I could get it properly seated in the
couplings.

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
I found a leak in my sprinkler line - I thought I was done, then as soon
as I fixed one leak, the one downstream gets enough pressure and bust out.

The line is 1-1/4" PVC sch 40 line, when I locate and bug up the leak I
usually dig a hole say 12" in diameter 8" deep so I have room to work
with. I cut a short section of the pipe out (like 6"), then glue a new
section back in, with a coupler on each end.

This sounds simple and easy, however, I am really having a hard time with
this as the pipe diameter is so large that there is no flex, so once I
glue one end on, the other end just will not go in. I ended up having to
cut the pipe such that only 1/4" goes into the socket of the coupling,
and I had to struggle a long time to even get that much to go in.

I am sure I am not doing it right and there must be an easier way.

Thanks in advance,

MC

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
I found a leak in my sprinkler line - I thought I was done, then as soon as
I fixed one leak, the one downstream gets enough pressure and bust out.

The line is 1-1/4" PVC sch 40 line, when I locate and bug up the leak I
usually dig a hole say 12" in diameter 8" deep so I have room to work
with. I cut a short section of the pipe out (like 6"), then glue a new
section back in, with a coupler on each end.

This sounds simple and easy, however, I am really having a hard time with
this as the pipe diameter is so large that there is no flex, so once I
glue one end on, the other end just will not go in. I ended up having to
cut the pipe such that only 1/4" goes into the socket of the coupling, and
I had to struggle a long time to even get that much to go in.

I am sure I am not doing it right and there must be an easier way.

$5.60 for a Compression Repair Coupling at:

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...US250%26sa%3DN

"PanHandler" wrote in message
. ..

$5.60 for a Compression Repair Coupling at:

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...US250%26sa%3DN

You will need two of the above and a piece of 1.25" PVC if a single one
doesn't span the leaking section.

"PanHandler" wrote in message
. ..

"PanHandler" wrote in message
. ..

$5.60 for a Compression Repair Coupling at:

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...US250%26sa%3DN

You will need two of the above and a piece of 1.25" PVC if a single one
doesn't span the leaking section.


Thanks, I think this is what I need.

Another option I was just thinking of, is introduce a "U" offset. Instead
of doing a straight section repair, do an 90 degree elbow and offset it some
distance to span the length and come back. Altogether 4 elbows but it would
be easier to get one of the elbows lined up transversely.

MC

On Nov 8, 6:55*pm, "PanHandler" wrote:
"PanHandler" wrote in message

. ..

$5.60 for a Compression Repair Coupling at:

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...orksusa.com/pr....

You will need two of the above and a piece of 1.25" PVC if a single one
doesn't span the leaking section.

Nope. Just one plus a standard coupling and a section of pipe.

Harry K

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
news

"PanHandler" wrote in message
. ..

"PanHandler" wrote in message
. ..

$5.60 for a Compression Repair Coupling at:

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...US250%26sa%3DN

You will need two of the above and a piece of 1.25" PVC if a single one
doesn't span the leaking section.


Thanks, I think this is what I need.

Another option I was just thinking of, is introduce a "U" offset. Instead
of doing a straight section repair, do an 90 degree elbow and offset it
some distance to span the length and come back. Altogether 4 elbows but
it would be easier to get one of the elbows lined up transversely.

Too much work, too many joints to fail. I've used the one in the link many
times, for a long time. Never a problem, and the only tool needed is a pipe
cutter (hacksaw not recommended for sprinklers, particles in spray heads).
Quick and easy!

"Harry K" wrote in message
...
On Nov 8, 6:55 pm, "PanHandler" wrote:
"PanHandler" wrote in message

. ..

$5.60 for a Compression Repair Coupling at:

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...orksusa.com/pr...

You will need two of the above and a piece of 1.25" PVC if a single one
doesn't span the leaking section.

Nope. Just one plus a standard coupling and a section of pipe.

I usually avoid glue joints in a tough-to-get-to repair of this sort, and
dealing with pipe with water dripping out during the job.

On Nov 8, 8:13*pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
"PanHandler" wrote in message

. ..



"PanHandler" wrote in message
...

$5.60 for a Compression Repair Coupling at:

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...orksusa.com/pr....

You will need two of the above and a piece of 1.25" PVC if a single one
doesn't span the leaking section.

Thanks, I think this is what I need.

Another option I was just thinking of, is introduce a "U" offset. *Instead
of doing a straight section repair, do an 90 degree elbow and offset it some
distance to span the length and come back. *Altogether 4 elbows but it would
be easier to get one of the elbows lined up transversely.

MC

I've done that but using the 'Dressler Coupling" (as in the cite) is
the simple way. I don't like using compression couplings on buried
PVC lines though - just apersonal predjudice.

Harry K

MiamiCuse wrote:
This sounds simple and easy, however, I am really having a hard
time with this as the pipe diameter is so large that there is no
flex, so once I glue one end on, the other end just will not go in.


I know I have seen "slip" couplings, but I can't remember where. No shoulder
in the middle, they slip over the pipe for just such a repair.
--
js

MiamiCuse wrote:
I found a leak in my sprinkler line - I thought I was done, then as
soon as I fixed one leak, the one downstream gets enough pressure and
bust out.
The line is 1-1/4" PVC sch 40 line, when I locate and bug up the leak
I usually dig a hole say 12" in diameter 8" deep so I have room to
work with. I cut a short section of the pipe out (like 6"), then glue
a new section back in, with a coupler on each end.

This sounds simple and easy, however, I am really having a hard time
with this as the pipe diameter is so large that there is no flex, so
once I glue one end on, the other end just will not go in. I ended
up having to cut the pipe such that only 1/4" goes into the socket of
the coupling, and I had to struggle a long time to even get that much
to go in.
I am sure I am not doing it right and there must be an easier way.

Dig up more of the pipe so you can flex it. A yard or so at least.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On Nov 8, 8:08*pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
I found a leak in my sprinkler line - I thought I was done, then as soon as
I fixed one leak, the one downstream gets enough pressure and bust out.

The line is 1-1/4" PVC sch 40 line, when I locate and bug up the leak I
usually dig a hole say 12" in diameter 8" deep so I have room to work with.
I cut a short section of the pipe out (like 6"), then glue a new section
back in, with a coupler on each end.

This sounds simple and easy, however, I am really having a hard time with
this as the pipe diameter is so large that there is no flex, so once I glue
one end on, the other end just will not go in. *I ended up having to cut the
pipe such that only 1/4" goes into the socket of the coupling, and I had to
struggle a long time to even get that much to go in.

I am sure I am not doing it right and there must be an easier way.

Thanks in advance,

MC

A compression fitting works, but the real question is they should not
break unless they froze with water in them, there are line drains that
close under pressure, but wont keep in water so they freeze over
winter.

On Nov 8, 9:08*pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
I found a leak in my sprinkler line - I thought I was done, then as soon as
I fixed one leak, the one downstream gets enough pressure and bust out.

The line is 1-1/4" PVC sch 40 line, when I locate and bug up the leak I
usually dig a hole say 12" in diameter 8" deep so I have room to work with.
I cut a short section of the pipe out (like 6"), then glue a new section
back in, with a coupler on each end.

This sounds simple and easy, however, I am really having a hard time with
this as the pipe diameter is so large that there is no flex, so once I glue
one end on, the other end just will not go in. *I ended up having to cut the
pipe such that only 1/4" goes into the socket of the coupling, and I had to
struggle a long time to even get that much to go in.

I am sure I am not doing it right and there must be an easier way.

Thanks in advance,

MC

buy a product named 5 minute epoxy. It comes with an injector , and u
push the plunger to spread out equal amounts of the mixture and mix it
well and spread it over the crack and it will last forever. Again it's
called 5 minute epoxy. U can get it at a hardware store, good luck
henry

In article , "alarman"
wrote:

MiamiCuse wrote:
This sounds simple and easy, however, I am really having a hard
time with this as the pipe diameter is so large that there is no
flex, so once I glue one end on, the other end just will not go in.


I know I have seen "slip" couplings, but I can't remember where. No shoulder
in the middle, they slip over the pipe for just such a repair.

My thought, too. Easy enough to modify your own on the lathe.

MiamiCuse wrote:
I found a leak in my sprinkler line - I thought I was done, then as soon as
I fixed one leak, the one downstream gets enough pressure and bust out.

The line is 1-1/4" PVC sch 40 line, when I locate and bug up the leak I
usually dig a hole say 12" in diameter 8" deep so I have room to work with.
I cut a short section of the pipe out (like 6"), then glue a new section
back in, with a coupler on each end.

This sounds simple and easy, however, I am really having a hard time with
this as the pipe diameter is so large that there is no flex, so once I glue
one end on, the other end just will not go in. I ended up having to cut the
pipe such that only 1/4" goes into the socket of the coupling, and I had to
struggle a long time to even get that much to go in.

I am sure I am not doing it right and there must be an easier way.

Thanks in advance,

MC



Just buy repair couplings, slip it onto the pipe (there is no rib in
the center). Place the new piece in place, apply the glue and slip
the coupling into place. You need zero flex for this. If you are
stuck with a homeowner store and can't get repair couplings, you can
make your own by cutting out the rib in the middle of the coupling
with a pocket knife.

--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
In article , "alarman"
wrote:

MiamiCuse wrote:
This sounds simple and easy, however, I am really having a hard
time with this as the pipe diameter is so large that there is no
flex, so once I glue one end on, the other end just will not go in.


I know I have seen "slip" couplings, but I can't remember where. No
shoulder
in the middle, they slip over the pipe for just such a repair.

My thought, too. Easy enough to modify your own on the lathe.

I use these to connect my well pump to the pressure tank and distribution
pipes. They are cheap and readily available at your local friendly hardware
store. They slip out easily, though, you can't use them in a place where one
pipe can move back in forth. In the case of the OP where the pipes can't
move back and forth, they would work just fine.

On Nov 8, 8:13*pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
"PanHandler" wrote in message

. ..



"PanHandler" wrote in message
...

$5.60 for a Compression Repair Coupling at:

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...orksusa.com/pr....

You will need two of the above and a piece of 1.25" PVC if a single one
doesn't span the leaking section.

Thanks, I think this is what I need.

Another option I was just thinking of, is introduce a "U" offset. *Instead
of doing a straight section repair, do an 90 degree elbow and offset it some
distance to span the length and come back. *Altogether 4 elbows but it would
be easier to get one of the elbows lined up transversely.

MC

MC-

The multiple 90's repair is a good option...I've used it with copper
tubing.

Depending on the size of the "flaw" / "crack" / "hole" in the
pipe....... a saddle Tee is a quick & easy way to fix them.
Unfortunately, this method will only work with relatively small
damaged areas and before you cut up the pipe.

http://www.plumbingsupply.com/saddle.html

I know Home Depot & Ace Hardware carry the saddle Tee's (at least to
1")
The 1 1/4" saddle Tee is 2 1/4" overall length so I'd be comfortable
repairing a flaw of about an 1" or so.

The best thing about this method is ....very little digging.

Why is the pipe failing?

cheers
Bob

TinyURL was created!
The following URL:

http://www.google.com/products?hl=en&resnum=0&q=fern
co%20coupler&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=wf

has a length of 90 characters and resulted in the following TinyURL which
has a length of 25 characters:
http://tinyurl.com/5zso8w
[Open in new window]

These couplers may be easier to use, compared with slip couplers.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
I found a leak in my sprinkler line - I thought I was done, then as soon as
I fixed one leak, the one downstream gets enough pressure and bust out.

The line is 1-1/4" PVC sch 40 line, when I locate and bug up the leak I
usually dig a hole say 12" in diameter 8" deep so I have room to work with.
I cut a short section of the pipe out (like 6"), then glue a new section
back in, with a coupler on each end.

This sounds simple and easy, however, I am really having a hard time with
this as the pipe diameter is so large that there is no flex, so once I glue
one end on, the other end just will not go in. I ended up having to cut the
pipe such that only 1/4" goes into the socket of the coupling, and I had to
struggle a long time to even get that much to go in.

I am sure I am not doing it right and there must be an easier way.

Thanks in advance,

MC

"ransley" wrote in message
...
On Nov 8, 8:08 pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
I found a leak in my sprinkler line - I thought I was done, then as soon
as
I fixed one leak, the one downstream gets enough pressure and bust out.

The line is 1-1/4" PVC sch 40 line, when I locate and bug up the leak I
usually dig a hole say 12" in diameter 8" deep so I have room to work
with.
I cut a short section of the pipe out (like 6"), then glue a new section
back in, with a coupler on each end.

This sounds simple and easy, however, I am really having a hard time with
this as the pipe diameter is so large that there is no flex, so once I
glue
one end on, the other end just will not go in. I ended up having to cut
the
pipe such that only 1/4" goes into the socket of the coupling, and I had
to
struggle a long time to even get that much to go in.

I am sure I am not doing it right and there must be an easier way.

Thanks in advance,

MC

A compression fitting works, but the real question is they should not
break unless they froze with water in them, there are line drains that
close under pressure, but wont keep in water so they freeze over
winter.

They broke because the city replaced the sidewalk last year and I have not
used the sprinkler system for over a year (we had water restrictions). The
line runs along the sidewalk and I am surprised I did not find more leak.
Unfortunately, a nearby tree also had root reaching the sidewalk and so the
affected pipe has roots around it as well making the fix very challenging.
No freezing here in Miami Florida.

Thanks,

MC

PVC Union
http://www.pondparts.com/subcat267.html

On Sat, 8 Nov 2008 21:08:45 -0500, "MiamiCuse"
wrote:

I found a leak in my sprinkler line - I thought I was done, then as soon as
I fixed one leak, the one downstream gets enough pressure and bust out.

The line is 1-1/4" PVC sch 40 line, when I locate and bug up the leak I
usually dig a hole say 12" in diameter 8" deep so I have room to work with.
I cut a short section of the pipe out (like 6"), then glue a new section
back in, with a coupler on each end.

This sounds simple and easy, however, I am really having a hard time with
this as the pipe diameter is so large that there is no flex, so once I glue
one end on, the other end just will not go in. I ended up having to cut the
pipe such that only 1/4" goes into the socket of the coupling, and I had to
struggle a long time to even get that much to go in.

I am sure I am not doing it right and there must be an easier way.

Thanks in advance,

MC

In article , "MiamiCuse" wrote:

This sounds simple and easy, however, I am really having a hard time with
this as the pipe diameter is so large that there is no flex, so once I glue
one end on, the other end just will not go in. I ended up having to cut the
pipe such that only 1/4" goes into the socket of the coupling, and I had to
struggle a long time to even get that much to go in.

I am sure I am not doing it right and there must be an easier way.

You're not, and there is.

You need something called an RP coupling: it's a coupling with no flange in
the middle. Make your first joint with a standard coupling as you do now. Then
slip the RP coupling onto the pipe at the other splice, several inches past
the joint. Apply cement to both of the pieces to be joined, on each side of
the joint, and slide the coupling into place. Done.

In article , wrote:
MiamiCuse wrote:
I found a leak in my sprinkler line - I thought I was done, then as soon as
I fixed one leak, the one downstream gets enough pressure and bust out.

The line is 1-1/4" PVC sch 40 line, when I locate and bug up the leak I
usually dig a hole say 12" in diameter 8" deep so I have room to work with.
I cut a short section of the pipe out (like 6"), then glue a new section
back in, with a coupler on each end.

This sounds simple and easy, however, I am really having a hard time with
this as the pipe diameter is so large that there is no flex, so once I glue
one end on, the other end just will not go in. I ended up having to cut the
pipe such that only 1/4" goes into the socket of the coupling, and I had to
struggle a long time to even get that much to go in.

I am sure I am not doing it right and there must be an easier way.

Thanks in advance,

MC



Just buy repair couplings, slip it onto the pipe (there is no rib in
the center). Place the new piece in place, apply the glue and slip
the coupling into place. You need zero flex for this. If you are
stuck with a homeowner store and can't get repair couplings, you can
make your own by cutting out the rib in the middle of the coupling
with a pocket knife.

A round or half-round file is easier...

I don't think I can use Fernco, since these are basically for drains, and my
sprinkler line will be pressurized.

Thanks.


"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
TinyURL was created!
The following URL:

http://www.google.com/products?hl=en&resnum=0&q=fern
co%20coupler&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=wf

has a length of 90 characters and resulted in the following TinyURL which
has a length of 25 characters:
http://tinyurl.com/5zso8w
[Open in new window]

These couplers may be easier to use, compared with slip couplers.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.


"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
I found a leak in my sprinkler line - I thought I was done, then as soon
as
I fixed one leak, the one downstream gets enough pressure and bust out.

The line is 1-1/4" PVC sch 40 line, when I locate and bug up the leak I
usually dig a hole say 12" in diameter 8" deep so I have room to work
with.
I cut a short section of the pipe out (like 6"), then glue a new section
back in, with a coupler on each end.

This sounds simple and easy, however, I am really having a hard time with
this as the pipe diameter is so large that there is no flex, so once I
glue
one end on, the other end just will not go in. I ended up having to cut
the
pipe such that only 1/4" goes into the socket of the coupling, and I had
to
struggle a long time to even get that much to go in.

I am sure I am not doing it right and there must be an easier way.

Thanks in advance,

MC

Doug Miller wrote:
In article , wrote:
MiamiCuse wrote:
I found a leak in my sprinkler line - I thought I was done, then as soon as
I fixed one leak, the one downstream gets enough pressure and bust out.

The line is 1-1/4" PVC sch 40 line, when I locate and bug up the leak I
usually dig a hole say 12" in diameter 8" deep so I have room to work with.
I cut a short section of the pipe out (like 6"), then glue a new section
back in, with a coupler on each end.

This sounds simple and easy, however, I am really having a hard time with
this as the pipe diameter is so large that there is no flex, so once I glue
one end on, the other end just will not go in. I ended up having to cut the
pipe such that only 1/4" goes into the socket of the coupling, and I had to
struggle a long time to even get that much to go in.

I am sure I am not doing it right and there must be an easier way.

Thanks in advance,

MC


Just buy repair couplings, slip it onto the pipe (there is no rib in
the center). Place the new piece in place, apply the glue and slip
the coupling into place. You need zero flex for this. If you are
stuck with a homeowner store and can't get repair couplings, you can
make your own by cutting out the rib in the middle of the coupling
with a pocket knife.

A round or half-round file is easier...

Yeah, but I don't carry a file in pocket.

--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX