Hi all:

I'm in the latter stages of building a play room in an attic space
above the garage of my house. It is built into a gabled roof, having
4-foot tall kneewalls along the sides of the room. The space behind
the kneewalls will be used for storage, so I will install access doors
into the walls. I would like for these doors to be nearly invisible
when closed, so I won't be casing them as a conventional opening.

I thought about using a drywall return with metal corner bead, and
making a flush plywood door painted the same color as the wall.
However, I am concerned that the enevitable bumps when moving items
through the opening will eventually bend the corner bead and be
difficult to repair. I wonder if I could make a wooden frame around
the opening flush with the drywall surface and tape over the wood and
mud it like a drywall seam. If it gets dinged, it would be an easier
repair, and I could use those fancy Soss invisible hinges for the door
(they have to be mortised into the jamb). I am concerned that the
drywall-to-wood joint would experience seasonal movement and crack.
Will this work? Any alternatives?

Thanks in advance,
John.

"the_tool_man" wrote in message
...
Hi all:

I'm in the latter stages of building a play room in an attic space
above the garage of my house. It is built into a gabled roof, having
4-foot tall kneewalls along the sides of the room. The space behind
the kneewalls will be used for storage, so I will install access doors
into the walls. I would like for these doors to be nearly invisible
when closed, so I won't be casing them as a conventional opening.

I thought about using a drywall return with metal corner bead, and
making a flush plywood door painted the same color as the wall.
However, I am concerned that the enevitable bumps when moving items
through the opening will eventually bend the corner bead and be
difficult to repair. I wonder if I could make a wooden frame around
the opening flush with the drywall surface and tape over the wood and
mud it like a drywall seam. If it gets dinged, it would be an easier
repair, and I could use those fancy Soss invisible hinges for the door
(they have to be mortised into the jamb). I am concerned that the
drywall-to-wood joint would experience seasonal movement and crack.
Will this work? Any alternatives?

Thanks in advance,
John.


John I did something similar. Instead of the corner bead I used metal J
bead to finish off the edges of the drywall. I then applied joint compound
over the bead to even it out and make it invisible. It's been fine for
about eight years.

I bought a set of Soss hinges, but the ones I got need to go into a very
thick door. I just made a plywood door with 1" x 3" around the back side and
skim coated it. I used several small cabinet hinges and the hinge pins are
not that visible.

Make your frame out of double 2" x 4"s all around and it won't shift.

I put a small block of wood on the upper and lower corner and put 1/4-20 Tee
nuts on them. I countersunk two holes on the door and use 1/4-20 flat head
bolts to keep it closed. To get in you need to use a screwdriver which
discourages kids. I also used weather-stripped molding on the back side to
keep air from passing through easily.

the_tool_man wrote:

Hi all:

I'm in the latter stages of building a play room in an attic space
above the garage of my house. It is built into a gabled roof, having
4-foot tall kneewalls along the sides of the room. The space behind
the kneewalls will be used for storage, so I will install access doors
into the walls. I would like for these doors to be nearly invisible
when closed, so I won't be casing them as a conventional opening.

I thought about using a drywall return with metal corner bead, and
making a flush plywood door painted the same color as the wall.
However, I am concerned that the enevitable bumps when moving items
through the opening will eventually bend the corner bead and be
difficult to repair. I wonder if I could make a wooden frame around
the opening flush with the drywall surface and tape over the wood and
mud it like a drywall seam. If it gets dinged, it would be an easier
repair, and I could use those fancy Soss invisible hinges for the door
(they have to be mortised into the jamb). I am concerned that the
drywall-to-wood joint would experience seasonal movement and crack.
Will this work? Any alternatives?

I recommend a finish other than wallboard. If you use car siding or
beadboard, you can make a _truly_ invisible door. The latches can be
the magnetic type seen on glass doors.

--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
Arlington, TX

"the_tool_man" wrote in message
...
Hi all:

I'm in the latter stages of building a play room in an attic space
above the garage of my house. It is built into a gabled roof, having
4-foot tall kneewalls along the sides of the room. The space behind
the kneewalls will be used for storage, so I will install access doors
into the walls. I would like for these doors to be nearly invisible
when closed, so I won't be casing them as a conventional opening.

I thought about using a drywall return with metal corner bead, and
making a flush plywood door painted the same color as the wall.
However, I am concerned that the enevitable bumps when moving items
through the opening will eventually bend the corner bead and be
difficult to repair. I wonder if I could make a wooden frame around
the opening flush with the drywall surface and tape over the wood and
mud it like a drywall seam. If it gets dinged, it would be an easier
repair, and I could use those fancy Soss invisible hinges for the door
(they have to be mortised into the jamb). I am concerned that the
drywall-to-wood joint would experience seasonal movement and crack.
Will this work? Any alternatives?

Thanks in advance,
John.

Yes the drywall to wood joint WILL crack. Instead I would put L Bead around
trim and caulk the joint....However I like the J Bead on the drywall and
flush plywood door you mentioned first unless it was going to be used for a
closet and opened every day ....Good luck.....