I have a double-pane window, downstairs on one end of the family room. It's
not very visible, being under the rear deck. Someone recently shot a small
hole, probably with a BB gun, which penetrated the outer pane. I'm looking
for advice on how to seal that up. I googled around, but surprisingly not
a lot there. Lots of articles on repairing broken windows or holes in
screens, but not this. Could not find anything on Amazon or on the sites of
Lowes or Home Depot. Any suggestions?

Thanks in Advance

"Glen Moffitt" wrote in message
...
I have a double-pane window, downstairs on one end of the family room. It's
not very visible, being under the rear deck. Someone recently shot a small
hole, probably with a BB gun, which penetrated the outer pane. I'm looking
for advice on how to seal that up. I googled around, but surprisingly not
a lot there. Lots of articles on repairing broken windows or holes in
screens, but not this. Could not find anything on Amazon or on the sites of
Lowes or Home Depot. Any suggestions?


You can epoxy over the hole, but it will show, and the seal is blown, so the
glass will fog up over time, I would expect.

replying to Bob F, Marcia fasnacht wrote:
I have a single pane window with a BB hole in it! Can I treat it with epoxy
also?

--
posted from
http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...ow-335283-.htm

In article s.com,
Marcia fasnacht
wrote:

replying to Bob F, Marcia fasnacht wrote:
I have a single pane window with a BB hole in it! Can I treat it with epoxy
also?

Marcia-

Ideally you would replace the pane. You might check with a company that
repairs automobile windshields, and see if their process would work on
your window.

If you are willing to accept a visible repair, Epoxy might work. I
would prefer Silicone Rubber Glue or Sealant. Whichever, I would make
sure there was more than enough to fill the hole. After it cured I
would slice off the excess with a razor blade.

Fred

On Tue, 28 Jun 2016 12:37:26 -0400, Fred McKenzie
wrote:

In article s.com,
Marcia fasnacht
wrote:

replying to Bob F, Marcia fasnacht wrote:
I have a single pane window with a BB hole in it! Can I treat it with epoxy
also?

Marcia-

Ideally you would replace the pane. You might check with a company that
repairs automobile windshields, and see if their process would work on
your window.

If you are willing to accept a visible repair, Epoxy might work. I
would prefer Silicone Rubber Glue or Sealant. Whichever, I would make
sure there was more than enough to fill the hole. After it cured I
would slice off the excess with a razor blade.

Fred
Kafuter (and several other suppliers) make a crystal clear UV Cure
resin that works real well for that kind of repair

replying to clare, an angel wrote:
Thanks, I too will try that ; no point in replacement yet, evil is everywhere
and I am in the middle of it here. We don't have a black vs. white issue, but
sin in all trying to find its way out. Some people have bad attitudes and
control issues, get these straightened up and we could have a good America
again. People perish for lack of knowledge.

--
for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...ow-335283-.htm

replying to Fred McKenzie, Marcia fasnacht wrote:
Thank you, I have 10 windows on my breezeway and I am not ready to replace all
of them yet!


--
posted from
http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...ow-335283-.htm

replying to Fred McKenzie, Kristina wrote:
although this is an kind post i was curious what the poster actually did in
the end...
I'm curious myself if the person could use clear packaging tape on both sides
seems either leaving a small space open at the top of one side or close it off
fully (and use a syringe with a needle then tape the tiny pin hole over) and
use clear uv gel resin like what they use for gel nails at salons etc.
(I have some product from purchasing it online using amazon and i also already
had the uv light for my nails)
Once it's filled then cure it with the uv light about 2 minutes until it feels
solid and then remove the tape from both sides... only thing left would be to
clean off the sticky residue with rubbing alcohol and ta da.. idk just a
thought and a lot faster than waiting for nail polish to dry.
Oh well, I think i shall attempt this on my window which looks more like a
rock hit it, leaving an inch sized hole and no cracking across the window and
I'll try to get a before and after picture and maybe this can help others in
the future, or you learn what not to do lol..

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ow-335283-.htm

On Tue, 28 Jun 2016 14:44:01 +0000, Marcia fasnacht
wrote:

replying to Bob F, Marcia fasnacht wrote:
I have a single pane window with a BB hole in it! Can I treat it with epoxy
also?
Better to get a clear UV cure resin. It doesn't yellow like most
epoxy resins do.

On 6/28/2016 7:44 AM, Marcia fasnacht wrote:
replying to Bob F, Marcia fasnacht wrote:
I have a single pane window with a BB hole in it! Can I treat it with epoxy
also?


Wow! A reply from the past.

No reason you couldn't. Put some scotch tape over the outside of the
hole (small end). The put another over the inside, not attached at the
top, so you can drip epoxy in and push the tape to seal on the window as
you go until it is filled. Peel the tape off after it cures. As I said
before, it shows, but it does keep the weather out.

replying to Bob F, an angel wrote:
hi, I really need some help here; in my 70's and two windows with bb holes.
one is dry so I intend to try silicone and clear packaging tape. Other is full
of moisture; can I use hair dryer or shop vac to get exchange of air through
the long cracks without breaking glass to pieces. no point in replacing as
yet. I would really appreciate any help, thanks an angel that none seem to
like. I don't know much about even doing this, but nothing worthwhile is ever
easy. Thanks again

--
for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...ow-335283-.htm

"Glen Moffitt" wrote in message
...
I have a double-pane window, downstairs on one end of the family room.
It's
not very visible, being under the rear deck. Someone recently shot a
small
hole, probably with a BB gun, which penetrated the outer pane. I'm
looking
for advice on how to seal that up. I googled around, but surprisingly
not
a lot there. Lots of articles on repairing broken windows or holes in
screens, but not this. Could not find anything on Amazon or on the sites
of
Lowes or Home Depot. Any suggestions?

Thanks in Advance


You can always get one of these for $900
http://www.deltakits.com/windshield-...ts/products/3/

Holes can be filled with resin, but I have no idea how well it works. Maybe
a local glass place will have what you need.

If appearance is not critical, I'd use epoxy.

On Oct 7, 10:19*pm, "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:
"Glen Moffitt" wrote in message

...

I have a double-pane window, downstairs on one end of the family room.
It's
not very visible, being under the rear deck. *Someone recently shot a
small
hole, probably with a BB gun, which penetrated the outer pane. *I'm
looking
for advice on how to seal that up. * I googled around, but surprisingly
not
a lot there. *Lots of articles on repairing broken windows or holes in
screens, but not this. *Could not find anything on Amazon or on the sites
of
Lowes or Home Depot. *Any suggestions?

Thanks in Advance

You can always get one of these for $900

http://www.deltakits.com/windshield-...ts/products/3/

That is for laminated glass only.

BTW, you can buy a cheapo one shot version at an auto parts store for
about $10.00.

Someone recently shot a small
hole, probably with a BB gun, which penetrated the outer pane. I'm
looking
for advice on how to seal that up.

You could patch the hole with clear epoxy, however, since the outside air
has got inside, the moisture in the air inside (unless you re in the desert)
WILL tend to condense onto the glass from time to time depending on
temperature.

Rudy wrote:
Someone recently shot a small hole, probably with a BB gun, which
penetrated the outer pane...

You could patch the hole with clear epoxy, however, since the outside air
has got inside, the moisture in the air inside (unless you re in the desert)
WILL tend to condense onto the glass from time to time...

Perhaps we can dry that air. Before plugging the BB hole, we might drill
a hole in the glass seal with a tube to an aquarium air pump in a box
with a few Tyvek bags filled with desiccant clay...

http://www.uline.com/ProductDetail.a...-1606&ref=1006

Nick

On Tue, 07 Oct 2008 18:29:55 -0700, Glen Moffitt
wrote:

I have a double-pane window, downstairs on one end of the family room. It's
not very visible, being under the rear deck. Someone recently shot a small
hole, probably with a BB gun, which penetrated the outer pane. I'm looking
for advice on how to seal that up. I googled around, but surprisingly not
a lot there. Lots of articles on repairing broken windows or holes in
screens, but not this. Could not find anything on Amazon or on the sites of
Lowes or Home Depot. Any suggestions?

Thanks in Advance

Their ideas are good. Don't push it in much or it will run down or
reach the other pane, which won't look as good.

You could also use clear silicone cement like from GE. They might
have that in a hardware store but will definitely have it in a good
autoparts store.

On Tue, 07 Oct 2008 18:29:55 -0700, Glen Moffitt
wrote:

I have a double-pane window, downstairs on one end of the family room. It's
not very visible, being under the rear deck. Someone recently shot a small
hole, probably with a BB gun, which penetrated the outer pane. I'm looking
for advice on how to seal that up. I googled around, but surprisingly not
a lot there. Lots of articles on repairing broken windows or holes in
screens, but not this. Could not find anything on Amazon or on the sites of
Lowes or Home Depot. Any suggestions?

Thanks in Advance

Howdy,

You have seen good ideas about epoxy, and I suspect the
concerns you have seen about the humidity of the air that
entered are correct.

But, you might be able to mitigate the condensation problems
if you were to heat the window some before applying the
epoxy.

I might try aiming some sort of space heater at the glass
for a while before doing the repair.

Even heating it slightly would lower the level of humidity
between the panes, and that would, in turn, lower the
temperature at which you would see condensation.

All the best,
--
Kenneth

If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."

"Kenneth" wrote in message
...

I might try aiming some sort of space heater at the glass
for a while before doing the repair.

Even heating it slightly would lower the level of humidity
between the panes, and that would, in turn, lower the
temperature at which you would see condensation.

The heat won't remove the moisture in the trapped air, only make it warmer.
The moisture would have to escape thru the hole, which won't happen.

PanHandler wrote:
"Kenneth" wrote in message
...


I might try aiming some sort of space heater at the glass
for a while before doing the repair.

Even heating it slightly would lower the level of humidity
between the panes, and that would, in turn, lower the
temperature at which you would see condensation.


The heat won't remove the moisture in the trapped air, only make it warmer.
The moisture would have to escape thru the hole, which won't happen.



Anyone tried these guys or similar services which say they drill a hole
in the outer pane and put in a one way valve as part of their process?

http://www.defogit.com/

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

On Oct 8, 10:56*am, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
PanHandler wrote:
"Kenneth" wrote in message
.. .

I might try aiming some sort of space heater at the glass
for a while before doing the repair.

Even heating it slightly would lower the level of humidity
between the panes, and that would, in turn, lower the
temperature at which you would see condensation.

The heat won't remove the moisture in the trapped air, only make it warmer.
The moisture would have to escape thru the hole, which won't happen.

Anyone tried these guys or similar services which say they drill a hole
in the outer pane and put in a one way valve as part of their process?

http://www.defogit.com/

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Dont know nothing about thme but there ad is pure BS. If you have fog
in your window the window either leaks or it was not properly prepared
when it was made.

Jimmie

Kenneth wrote:

I might try aiming some sort of space heater at the glass
for a while before doing the repair.

Even heating it slightly would lower the level of humidity
between the panes, and that would, in turn, lower the
temperature at which you would see condensation.

Heating air lowers the RH but doesn't change the absolute moisture content,
so the air would have the same dew point after it cooled.

We might dry the air by running a tube from a dessicant box to the hole
and cycling the space heater every half hour for a few hours to pump air
out and back into the window cavity.

Nick

On 8 Oct 2008 06:48:04 -0400,
wrote:

Kenneth wrote:

I might try aiming some sort of space heater at the glass
for a while before doing the repair.

Even heating it slightly would lower the level of humidity
between the panes, and that would, in turn, lower the
temperature at which you would see condensation.

Heating air lowers the RH but doesn't change the absolute moisture content,
so the air would have the same dew point after it cooled.

We might dry the air by running a tube from a dessicant box to the hole
and cycling the space heater every half hour for a few hours to pump air
out and back into the window cavity.

Nick

Hi Nick,

No Physicist I, but at first, I thought, "Of course... He's
absolutely right."

Then, on further reflection, (though I certainly may be
wrong) I came to see it differently:

The window used to be a closed vessel (and were that to
continue, your comment would, I believe, be correct.)

But now, it is an open vessel (the bb hole.)

Consider the analogy (though far more extreme) to a clothes
drier:

It heats the air in the drum, the RH goes down, the water in
the clothes is drawn to the air, and that moist air (with
the water it carries) is expelled by a fan via the duct.

It would appear to me that much the same thing would happen
in the case of the window:

A space heater (or some such) heats the glass of the window,
and after a few minutes, heats the air enclosed. As that air
warms, at least two things happen. First, as you say, its RH
drops. But in addition to that, it expands, expelling some
of that air via the bb hole, and with it, the moisture it
carries.

It seems to me that over time (and let's remember that the
volume of air in the window is extremely low) both the RH,
and the absolute humidity of the air in the window would
drop.

Then, when the epoxy seals the hole (while the window is
still warm) the AH within would be lower than the
surrounding environment thus lowering the temperature at
which condensation would be visible.

Might I have that right?

All the best,
--
Kenneth

If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."

Kenneth wrote:
....
Consider the analogy (though far more extreme) to a clothes
drier:
....
It seems to me that over time (and let's remember that the
volume of air in the window is extremely low) both the RH,
and the absolute humidity of the air in the window would
drop.

Then, when the epoxy seals the hole (while the window is
still warm) the AH within would be lower than the
surrounding environment thus lowering the temperature at
which condensation would be visible.
....
Not unless the replacement air is drier than the air which one is trying
to displace -- which it isn't since it would be only some very small
fraction of air displaced by the volume expansion of a minimal amount of
(localized) heating.

The only way to make any significant difference would be the same way
the window was manufactured--draw a vacuum and fill w/ dry gas which
ain't gonna' happen.

Only real choice is to get the window repaired/replaced.

--

On Wed, 08 Oct 2008 08:43:01 -0500, dpb
wrote:

Kenneth wrote:
...
Consider the analogy (though far more extreme) to a clothes
drier:
...
It seems to me that over time (and let's remember that the
volume of air in the window is extremely low) both the RH,
and the absolute humidity of the air in the window would
drop.

Then, when the epoxy seals the hole (while the window is
still warm) the AH within would be lower than the
surrounding environment thus lowering the temperature at
which condensation would be visible.
...
Not unless the replacement air is drier than the air which one is trying
to displace -- which it isn't since it would be only some very small
fraction of air displaced by the volume expansion of a minimal amount of
(localized) heating.

The only way to make any significant difference would be the same way
the window was manufactured--draw a vacuum and fill w/ dry gas which
ain't gonna' happen.

Only real choice is to get the window repaired/replaced.

Hello again,

A replacement may, indeed, be the way to go, but...

I am also eager to understand the situation:

You say "not unless the replacement air is drier."

What replacement air?

As I described, it seems to me that as the heater air
expands, and exits through the bb hole, it takes with it
some water vapor. That makes it "drier" than it was.
Assuming that the epoxy is a seal, would that not decrease
the likelihood of condensation?

Thanks,
--
Kenneth

If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."

dpb wrote:

The only way to make any significant difference would be the same way
the window was manufactured--draw a vacuum and fill w/ dry gas which
ain't gonna' happen.

It seems to me that drawing a vacuum could implode the window.

Only real choice is to get the window repaired/replaced.

Or dry the air in the cavity.

Nick

dpb wrote:

The only way to make any significant difference would be the same way
the window was manufactured--draw a vacuum and fill w/ dry gas which
ain't gonna' happen.

I believe they put desiccant in the separator channels. The air that is
sealed in does not have to be absolutely dry.

Otherwise I agree with your comments.


The air in the window will equalize with the outside air. The hole could
be sealed when the dew point of the outside air is sufficiently low
(below the lowest temperature in winter).

--
bud--

"Kenneth" wrote in message
Consider the analogy (though far more extreme) to a clothes
drier:

It heats the air in the drum, the RH goes down, the water in
the clothes is drawn to the air, and that moist air (with
the water it carries) is expelled by a fan via the duct.

It would appear to me that much the same thing would happen
in the case of the window:

So how long should he run the dryer with the window in it? I'd recommend
the permanent press cycle.

The way that we used to get moisture out of small inaccessible areas (like a
bellows) was to pull a vacuum (which would evaporate the moisture)and
basically suck it out. Not a practical solution for this problem but just
wanted to add a tidbit on how something like this is handled.
MLD
wrote in message
...
Kenneth wrote:

I might try aiming some sort of space heater at the glass
for a while before doing the repair.

Even heating it slightly would lower the level of humidity
between the panes, and that would, in turn, lower the
temperature at which you would see condensation.

Heating air lowers the RH but doesn't change the absolute moisture
content,
so the air would have the same dew point after it cooled.

We might dry the air by running a tube from a dessicant box to the hole
and cycling the space heater every half hour for a few hours to pump air
out and back into the window cavity.

Nick

On Oct 8, 10:37*am, "MLD" wrote:
The way that we used to get moisture out of small inaccessible areas (like a
bellows) was to pull a vacuum (which would evaporate the moisture)and
basically suck it out. *Not a practical solution for this problem but just
wanted to add a tidbit on how something like this is handled.
wrote in message



Actually, I think he should draw a vacuum on his window. At about 14
psi, it'll completely destroy the glass and he'll have to replace the
window, which is the right "fix" anyway.

On Wednesday, October 8, 2008 at 2:41:06 PM UTC-4, mike wrote:
On Oct 8, 10:37*am, "MLD" wrote:
The way that we used to get moisture out of small inaccessible areas (like a
bellows) was to pull a vacuum (which would evaporate the moisture)and
basically suck it out. *Not a practical solution for this problem but just
wanted to add a tidbit on how something like this is handled.
wrote in message



Actually, I think he should draw a vacuum on his window. At about 14
psi, it'll completely destroy the glass and he'll have to replace the
window, which is the right "fix" anyway.

Hi there... the correct term is "in.of mercury" for vacuum pressure not psi..

MLD wrote:

The way that we used to get moisture out of small inaccessible areas (like
a bellows) was to pull a vacuum (which would evaporate the moisture) and
basically suck it out. Not a practical solution for this problem...

How about a repetitive partial vacuum and a source of dry air, eg a box full
of desiccant bags? How many times do we have to squeeze a bellows to remove
5% of the air from a window cavity, with a check valve and a vacuum breaker
that allow dry air to replace expelled air when the bellows is released, if
we want to lower the cavity dew point from 50 to 10 F?

Nick

... How many times do we have to squeeze a bellows to remove 5% of the air
from a window cavity, with a check valve and a vacuum breaker that allow
dry air to replace withdrawn air when the bellows is released, if we want
to lower the cavity dew point from 50 to 10 F?

.... 31 times.

10 P=.5*EXP(17.863-9621/(460+70))'initial cavity vapor pressure ("Hg)
20 W=.62198/(29.921/P-1)'initial humidity ratio (#w/#a)
30 PRINT P,W
40 P10=EXP(17.863-9621/(460+10))'vapor pressure at 10 F and 100% RH
50 W10=.62198/(29.921/P10-1)'10 F humidity ratio
60 W=.95*W'squeeze bellows
70 IF WW10 THEN N=N+1:GOTO 60
80 PRINT N,W,W10

..3741957 7.87707E-03

31 1.525878E-03 1.536647E-03

Nick

wrote:
MLD wrote:

The way that we used to get moisture out of small inaccessible areas (like
a bellows) was to pull a vacuum (which would evaporate the moisture) and
basically suck it out. Not a practical solution for this problem...

How about a repetitive partial vacuum and a source of dry air, eg a box full
of desiccant bags? How many times do we have to squeeze a bellows to remove
5% of the air from a window cavity, with a check valve and a vacuum breaker
that allow dry air to replace expelled air when the bellows is released, if
we want to lower the cavity dew point from 50 to 10 F?

Nick


Lordy. How many angels can dance on the head of a pin? There is no
practical way to field-repair a holed insulated window. OP should wait
for next warm dry sunny day when the glass is as hot as it gets, put a
dab of epoxy over the hole, and live with the occasional fogging until
he can afford to replace the panel.

--
aem sends...

Glen Moffitt wrote:
I have a double-pane window, downstairs on one end of the family room. It's
not very visible, being under the rear deck. Someone recently shot a small
hole, probably with a BB gun, which penetrated the outer pane. I'm looking
for advice on how to seal that up. I googled around, but surprisingly not
a lot there. Lots of articles on repairing broken windows or holes in
screens, but not this. Could not find anything on Amazon or on the sites of
Lowes or Home Depot. Any suggestions?

Thanks in Advance

Hi,
I'd just have the glass parts replaced. Seal is broken and it's no good
insulator and it'll fog up when raining or weather gets cold.

On Oct 7, 8:29*pm, Glen Moffitt wrote:
I have a double-pane window, downstairs on one end of the family room. *It's
not very visible, being under the rear deck. *Someone recently shot a small
hole, probably with a BB gun, which penetrated the outer pane. *I'm looking
for advice on how to seal that up. * I googled around, but surprisingly not
a lot there. *Lots of articles on repairing broken windows or holes in
screens, but not this. *Could not find anything on Amazon or on the sites of
Lowes or Home Depot. *Any suggestions?

Thanks in Advance

It will eventualy fog so you cant see out of it, if its big you may
think insurance. You can seal it with a bit of caulk

On Oct 7, 9:29*pm, Glen Moffitt wrote:
I have a double-pane window, downstairs on one end of the family room. *It's
not very visible, being under the rear deck. *Someone recently shot a small
hole, probably with a BB gun, which penetrated the outer pane. *I'm looking
for advice on how to seal that up. * I googled around, but surprisingly not
a lot there. *Lots of articles on repairing broken windows or holes in
screens, but not this. *Could not find anything on Amazon or on the sites of
Lowes or Home Depot. *Any suggestions?

Thanks in Advance

Two approaches.

Replace the double-pane glass. If it's an Andersen they're readily
available and not too horrendously priced for a replacement part.

Low-tech, low-cost, under the deck not very visible repair - clear
plastic packing tape. It'll be clearer and less obtrusive than any
caulk or epoxy repair you can make and you'll have no trouble
controlling the depth of the repair. I'd first let the hole sit for a
while to make sure that any cracks won't propagate. Then I'd use some
silica gel packets (typically found in shoe boxes and electronics
packaging) to dry out the air inside the insulated glass unit. Dry
the packets in the oven at low temperature for a while, then put the
silica packet over the hole and tape plastic over the packet so it
will only absorb moisture from inside the hole. Let it sit for a
while, then replace the packet with a freshly dried one (quickly!).
It should only take a couple or three packets as they're can't be that
much moisture inside. Then remove the silica packet and quickly tape
over the hole. The edges of the tape are usually what's visible due
to handling and ragged edges from cutting it, so you could use an
razor knife to cut the tape edges off after it's been burnished down
on the glass (don't press too hard). A major benefit is that it's
easy to redo the poor-man's dessicant technique if moisture appears
between the panes during the winter.

R

Why not just break open a few of those dessicant packets and push the
pellets through the hole into the window cavity? They'll trap the
moisture and hold it.

You'll NEVER get the moisture out by taping dessicant packets over the
hole.

On Oct 8, 8:32*am, RicodJour wrote:
On Oct 7, 9:29*pm, Glen Moffitt wrote:

I have a double-pane window, downstairs on one end of the family room. *It's
not very visible, being under the rear deck. *Someone recently shot a small
hole, probably with a BB gun, which penetrated the outer pane. *I'm looking
for advice on how to seal that up. * I googled around, but surprisingly not
a lot there. *Lots of articles on repairing broken windows or holes in
screens, but not this. *Could not find anything on Amazon or on the sites of
Lowes or Home Depot. *Any suggestions?

Thanks in Advance

Two approaches.

Replace the double-pane glass. *If it's an Andersen they're readily
available and not too horrendously priced for a replacement part.

Low-tech, low-cost, under the deck not very visible repair - clear
plastic packing tape. *It'll be clearer and less obtrusive than any
caulk or epoxy repair you can make and you'll have no trouble
controlling the depth of the repair. *I'd first let the hole sit for a
while to make sure that any cracks won't propagate. *Then I'd use some
silica gel packets (typically found in shoe boxes and electronics
packaging) to dry out the air inside the insulated glass unit. *Dry
the packets in the oven at low temperature for a while, then put the
silica packet over the hole and tape plastic over the packet so it
will only absorb moisture from inside the hole. *Let it sit for a
while, then replace the packet with a freshly dried one (quickly!).
It should only take a couple or three packets as they're can't be that
much moisture inside. *Then remove the silica packet and quickly tape
over the hole. *The edges of the tape are usually what's visible due
to handling and ragged edges from cutting it, so you could use an
razor knife to cut the tape edges off after it's been burnished down
on the glass (don't press too hard). *A major benefit is that it's
easy to redo the poor-man's dessicant technique if moisture appears
between the panes during the winter.

R

My neighbor's boy friend's kids shot mine, it cost about $60USD for a
replacement. I took the old sash into the shop and they replaced the
glass. This took two trips to the shop. Once for them to measure the
glass so they could order the replacement glass and then go back for
them to put the glass in the sash.

Jimmie

On Oct 8, 8:32*am, RicodJour wrote:
On Oct 7, 9:29*pm, Glen Moffitt wrote:

I have a double-pane window, downstairs on one end of the family room. *It's
not very visible, being under the rear deck. *Someone recently shot a small
hole, probably with a BB gun, which penetrated the outer pane. *I'm looking
for advice on how to seal that up. * I googled around, but surprisingly not
a lot there. *Lots of articles on repairing broken windows or holes in
screens, but not this. *Could not find anything on Amazon or on the sites of
Lowes or Home Depot. *Any suggestions?

Thanks in Advance

Two approaches.

Replace the double-pane glass. *If it's an Andersen they're readily
available and not too horrendously priced for a replacement part.

Low-tech, low-cost, under the deck not very visible repair - clear
plastic packing tape. *It'll be clearer and less obtrusive than any
caulk or epoxy repair you can make and you'll have no trouble
controlling the depth of the repair. *I'd first let the hole sit for a
while to make sure that any cracks won't propagate. *Then I'd use some
silica gel packets (typically found in shoe boxes and electronics
packaging) to dry out the air inside the insulated glass unit. *Dry
the packets in the oven at low temperature for a while, then put the
silica packet over the hole and tape plastic over the packet so it
will only absorb moisture from inside the hole. *Let it sit for a
while, then replace the packet with a freshly dried one (quickly!).
It should only take a couple or three packets as they're can't be that
much moisture inside. *Then remove the silica packet and quickly tape
over the hole. *The edges of the tape are usually what's visible due
to handling and ragged edges from cutting it, so you could use an
razor knife to cut the tape edges off after it's been burnished down
on the glass (don't press too hard). *A major benefit is that it's
easy to redo the poor-man's dessicant technique if moisture appears
between the panes during the winter.

R

Third option: This is only theoretical, but it would work as well as
the others. Drill a second hole for air to escape. Go to your local,
upscale wine shoppe and get a can of the stuff that they use to squirt
into opened wine bottles so that you can re-cork them and put then in
the refrigerator for a while and not have them go bad. It's mostly
(totally?) nitrogen, I would guess. You could then refill the window
with gas and reseal the holes.

Thanks everyone for all the suggestions. I'll probably put a temporary seal
on it and then replace it later. Most of the time I'm near it, it's
nighttime and I have the blinds down anyway.

Thanks again


On 10/8/08 5:32 AM, in article
,
"RicodJour" wrote:

On Oct 7, 9:29*pm, Glen Moffitt wrote:
I have a double-pane window, downstairs on one end of the family room. *It's
not very visible, being under the rear deck. *Someone recently shot a small
hole, probably with a BB gun, which penetrated the outer pane. *I'm looking
for advice on how to seal that up. * I googled around, but surprisingly not
a lot there. *Lots of articles on repairing broken windows or holes in
screens, but not this. *Could not find anything on Amazon or on the sites of
Lowes or Home Depot. *Any suggestions?

Thanks in Advance

Two approaches.

Replace the double-pane glass. If it's an Andersen they're readily
available and not too horrendously priced for a replacement part.

Low-tech, low-cost, under the deck not very visible repair - clear
plastic packing tape. It'll be clearer and less obtrusive than any
caulk or epoxy repair you can make and you'll have no trouble
controlling the depth of the repair. I'd first let the hole sit for a
while to make sure that any cracks won't propagate. Then I'd use some
silica gel packets (typically found in shoe boxes and electronics
packaging) to dry out the air inside the insulated glass unit. Dry
the packets in the oven at low temperature for a while, then put the
silica packet over the hole and tape plastic over the packet so it
will only absorb moisture from inside the hole. Let it sit for a
while, then replace the packet with a freshly dried one (quickly!).
It should only take a couple or three packets as they're can't be that
much moisture inside. Then remove the silica packet and quickly tape
over the hole. The edges of the tape are usually what's visible due
to handling and ragged edges from cutting it, so you could use an
razor knife to cut the tape edges off after it's been burnished down
on the glass (don't press too hard). A major benefit is that it's
easy to redo the poor-man's dessicant technique if moisture appears
between the panes during the winter.

R