Using my Poulan "Wild Thing" chainsaw this weekend, and a lot of burnt wood
where I made my cuts.

Don't recall the chain being so bad, but a new one --- on Amazon --- is $20.

My question is, is that the definitive answer of an unsharp chain? Slow
cutting and burnt wood?

And, as a follow up, if I may, youtube showed me how to sharpen with a tool.
Doesn't look that hard, but if the tool is as much as a new chain, well, you
do the math.

thanks in advance.

On Tue, 23 Sep 2008 14:46:16 -0400, "ng_reader"
wrote:

Using my Poulan "Wild Thing" chainsaw this weekend, and a lot of burnt wood
where I made my cuts.

Don't recall the chain being so bad, but a new one --- on Amazon --- is $20.

My question is, is that the definitive answer of an unsharp chain? Slow
cutting and burnt wood?

And, as a follow up, if I may, youtube showed me how to sharpen with a tool.
Doesn't look that hard, but if the tool is as much as a new chain, well, you
do the math.

thanks in advance.


Howdy,

You could learn to sharpen your chain, but it is not nearly
as easy as it might appear (particularly with the relatively
inexpensive tools that are available.)

A likely better bet is to have the chain sharpened
professionally. It costs a few bucks, but you will have a
functionally new (perhaps better than new) chain, and will
not have to buy the tools.

Check with any place that sells chainsaws. Many offer the
sharpening service.

And one final thought:

If you use the saw frequently, consider having more than one
chain. That way, you can still use the saw while one (or
more) of your chains is being sharpened.

All the best,
--
Kenneth

If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."

"Kenneth" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 23 Sep 2008 14:46:16 -0400, "ng_reader"
wrote:

Using my Poulan "Wild Thing" chainsaw this weekend, and a lot of burnt
wood
where I made my cuts.

Don't recall the chain being so bad, but a new one --- on Amazon --- is
$20.

My question is, is that the definitive answer of an unsharp chain? Slow
cutting and burnt wood?

And, as a follow up, if I may, youtube showed me how to sharpen with a
tool.
Doesn't look that hard, but if the tool is as much as a new chain, well,
you
do the math.

thanks in advance.


Howdy,

You could learn to sharpen your chain, but it is not nearly
as easy as it might appear (particularly with the relatively
inexpensive tools that are available.)

It's very easy but a bit time consuming. Less time than it would take to
drive the saw to a "pro".

I don't know how close your pro is, but most of the time when I'm running
saw, I'm at least half hour from a saw shop. At bare minimum. I can have the
chain sharpened in much less than half hour, and I don't have to stand and
wait while someone else sharpens.

To the original poster who's smoking a chain. Check your bar oil, might not
be lubricating under the chain. The little oiler ports sometimes get clogged
with sawdust.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"retired53" [email protected] wrote in message
...


It's very easy but a bit time consuming. Less time than it would take to
drive the saw to a "pro".

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
I don't know how close your pro is, but most of the time when I'm running
saw, I'm at least half hour from a saw shop. At bare minimum. I can have
the
chain sharpened in much less than half hour, and I don't have to stand and
wait while someone else sharpens.

To the original poster who's smoking a chain. Check your bar oil, might
not
be lubricating under the chain. The little oiler ports sometimes get
clogged
with sawdust.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.


try reading my post again...i said the same thing. takes me about 5 min to
sharpen a chain saw. i don't even know where to take one.

On Sep 23, 2:56*pm, Kenneth wrote:
On Tue, 23 Sep 2008 14:46:16 -0400, "ng_reader"

wrote:
Using my Poulan "Wild Thing" chainsaw this weekend, and a lot of burnt wood
where I made my cuts.

Don't recall the chain being so bad, but a new one --- on Amazon --- is $20.

My question is, is that the definitive answer of an unsharp chain? *Slow
cutting and burnt wood?

And, as a follow up, if I may, youtube showed me how to sharpen with a tool.
Doesn't look that hard, but if the tool is as much as a new chain, well, you
do the math.

thanks in advance.

Howdy,

You could learn to sharpen your chain, but it is not nearly
as easy as it might appear (particularly with the relatively
inexpensive tools that are available.)

A likely better bet is to have the chain sharpened
professionally. It costs a few bucks, but you will have a
functionally new (perhaps better than new) chain, and will
not have to buy the tools.

Check with any place that sells chainsaws. Many offer the
sharpening service.

And one final thought:

If you use the saw frequently, consider having more than one
chain. That way, you can still use the saw while one (or
more) of your chains is being sharpened.

All the best, *
--
Kenneth

If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."

Gee, is it really practical to hire out this sharpening job. I have to
sharpen mine almost everytime I use it. I figure if you dont use it
enough to keep it sharpened you would probably be better off just
renting one for the day than owning one.
My father owned a few hundred acres of timberland and maintained it
himself back in the 60s so I learned when I was a teenager to use a
chainsaw. I have to wonder whether a not a person who can not sharpen
one can handle one safely. Its obvious the OP used his way past the
time it needed sharpening and I think most homeowners tend to do that.
I know since I bought my Sawzall I hardly ever use mine.

Jimmie

"JIMMIE" wrote

I know since I bought my Sawzall I hardly ever use mine.

Jimmie

They make 36" Sawzall blades now?

Steve

On Sep 23, 11:32*pm, "SteveB" toquerville@zionvistas wrote:
"JIMMIE" wrote

I know since I bought my Sawzall I hardly ever use mine.

Jimmie

They make 36" Sawzall blades now?

Steve

No, I have already cut everything down that big that I will ever need
to cut. I doubt if I use mine more than once a year now. If I didnt
already own it I wouldnt buy one, instead I would rent. If you just
got to have one get a professional grade saw, not one of these pieces
of junk they sell in the "big box" stores. You will be glad you did.

Jimmie

Either dull, or out of bar oil. Either one will smoke the chain.

I bought a sawzall, and I use my sawzall occasionally. Shame that you bought
a sawzall, but hardly use your sawzall.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"JIMMIE" wrote in message
...

Gee, is it really practical to hire out this sharpening job. I have to
sharpen mine almost everytime I use it. I figure if you dont use it
enough to keep it sharpened you would probably be better off just
renting one for the day than owning one.
My father owned a few hundred acres of timberland and maintained it
himself back in the 60s so I learned when I was a teenager to use a
chainsaw. I have to wonder whether a not a person who can not sharpen
one can handle one safely. Its obvious the OP used his way past the
time it needed sharpening and I think most homeowners tend to do that.
I know since I bought my Sawzall I hardly ever use mine.

Jimmie

"Kenneth" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 23 Sep 2008 14:46:16 -0400, "ng_reader"
wrote:

Using my Poulan "Wild Thing" chainsaw this weekend, and a lot of burnt
wood
where I made my cuts.

Don't recall the chain being so bad, but a new one --- on Amazon --- is
$20.

My question is, is that the definitive answer of an unsharp chain? Slow
cutting and burnt wood?

And, as a follow up, if I may, youtube showed me how to sharpen with a
tool.
Doesn't look that hard, but if the tool is as much as a new chain, well,
you
do the math.

thanks in advance.


Howdy,

You could learn to sharpen your chain, but it is not nearly
as easy as it might appear (particularly with the relatively
inexpensive tools that are available.)

A likely better bet is to have the chain sharpened
professionally. It costs a few bucks, but you will have a
functionally new (perhaps better than new) chain, and will
not have to buy the tools.

Check with any place that sells chainsaws. Many offer the
sharpening service.

And one final thought:

If you use the saw frequently, consider having more than one
chain. That way, you can still use the saw while one (or
more) of your chains is being sharpened.

All the best,
--
Kenneth


I use the two-chain method because the darn thing always seems to get dull
half-way through a sawing project. Switch chains to finish the job for the
day, then drop the dull one off at the hardware store the next morning.

Paul

"ng_reader" wrote in message
. ..
Using my Poulan "Wild Thing" chainsaw this weekend, and a lot of burnt
wood where I made my cuts.

Don't recall the chain being so bad, but a new one --- on Amazon --- is
$20.

My question is, is that the definitive answer of an unsharp chain? Slow
cutting and burnt wood?

And, as a follow up, if I may, youtube showed me how to sharpen with a
tool. Doesn't look that hard, but if the tool is as much as a new chain,
well, you do the math.

thanks in advance.

I use a small file I bought at HD for about $4.00. I've been using the same
chain ever since. I don't do a lot of cutting but I usually sharpen it just
about every time I use it.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...ctId=100388786

On 9/23/2008 11:46 AM ng_reader spake thus:

And, as a follow up, if I may, youtube showed me how to sharpen with a tool.
Doesn't look that hard, but if the tool is as much as a new chain, well, you
do the math.

Yes; do the math. You only have to buy the sharpening tool once, after
which you can resharpen the chain many times before needing to buy a new
one, which ought to save you much $$$.


--
Washing one's hands of the conflict between the powerful and the
powerless means to side with the powerful, not to be neutral.

- Paulo Freire

On Tue, 23 Sep 2008 14:46:16 -0400, "ng_reader"
wrote:

Using my Poulan "Wild Thing" chainsaw this weekend, and a lot of burnt wood
where I made my cuts.

Don't recall the chain being so bad, but a new one --- on Amazon --- is $20.

My question is, is that the definitive answer of an unsharp chain? Slow
cutting and burnt wood?

And, as a follow up, if I may, youtube showed me how to sharpen with a tool.
Doesn't look that hard, but if the tool is as much as a new chain, well, you
do the math.

thanks in advance.



A dull chain will burn the wood and the chainsaw will bog down. Many
hardware stores can sharpen a chain (on the saw) in a few minutes on a
machine for about $4, a good deal. I guess a Dremmel tool can sharpen
a chain, but still it would take much longer.

"Phisherman" wrote in message
...

A dull chain will burn the wood and the chainsaw will bog down. Many
hardware stores can sharpen a chain (on the saw) in a few minutes on a
machine for about $4, a good deal. I guess a Dremmel tool can sharpen
a chain, but still it would take much longer.

A chain already in good condition, but not sharp, is sharpened
by 5 to 10 strokes on each tooth (say 15 seconds per tooth)
x say 30 teeth = less than 10 min. A file and angle guide cost
about $12 and fit in your pocket so you can sharpen at lunchtime
when out in the bush (or any time you encounter dense, blunting
timber, or a tree so dangerous as to deserve a quick precise cut.)

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)

My last saw, the chains were 59 or 60 links, but the general concept is
there. Much faster to do your own touchup, compared to drive to the store.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Don Phillipson" wrote in message
...

A chain already in good condition, but not sharp, is sharpened
by 5 to 10 strokes on each tooth (say 15 seconds per tooth)
x say 30 teeth = less than 10 min. A file and angle guide cost
about $12 and fit in your pocket so you can sharpen at lunchtime
when out in the bush (or any time you encounter dense, blunting
timber, or a tree so dangerous as to deserve a quick precise cut.)

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)

I've been using a hand file for sharpening. Much less time than driving to
the store. Someday I'll get a 12 volt dremel sharpener, but it hasn't been
that much of an issue.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Phisherman" wrote in message
...

A dull chain will burn the wood and the chainsaw will bog down. Many
hardware stores can sharpen a chain (on the saw) in a few minutes on a
machine for about $4, a good deal. I guess a Dremmel tool can sharpen
a chain, but still it would take much longer.

ng_reader wrote:
....
And, as a follow up, if I may, youtube showed me how to sharpen with
a tool. Doesn't look that hard, but if the tool is as much as a new
chain, well, you do the math.
....

http://lawn-and-garden.hardwarestore...and-tools.aspx

It seems sharpening a chainsaw chain has become another of the urban
legend items of incredible difficulty only a pro can do...

As someone else noted, a simple chainsaw file will do quite nicely
although he didn't mention the requisite guide.

Be sure to determine the proper diameter for your particular chain.

--

ng_reader wrote:
Using my Poulan "Wild Thing" chainsaw this weekend, and a lot of
burnt wood where I made my cuts.

Don't recall the chain being so bad, but a new one --- on Amazon ---
is $20.
My question is, is that the definitive answer of an unsharp chain? Slow
cutting and burnt wood?

And, as a follow up, if I may, youtube showed me how to sharpen with
a tool. Doesn't look that hard, but if the tool is as much as a new
chain, well, you do the math.

thanks in advance.

The wood smokes and the saw doesn't cut worth squat (your symptoms) if the
chain is on backwards.

Might be something to check...

On Sep 23, 6:15*pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
ng_reader wrote:
Using my Poulan "Wild Thing" chainsaw this weekend, and a lot of
burnt wood where I made my cuts.

Don't recall the chain being so bad, but a new one --- on Amazon ---
is $20.
My question is, is that the definitive answer of an unsharp chain? Slow
cutting and burnt wood?

And, as a follow up, if I may, youtube showed me how to sharpen with
a tool. Doesn't look that hard, but if the tool is as much as a new
chain, well, you do the math.

thanks in advance.

The wood smokes and the saw doesn't cut worth squat (your symptoms) if the
chain is on backwards.

Might be something to check...

I've never seen a saw burn wood to the point where it's smoking
unless, like Bub suggests - backward chain. The sharper the saw the
larger the wood chips it produces. Learn how to use and maintain the
tool before you attempt to use it. A dull saw may not cut wood but can
still take your leg off.

jim wrote:
....
I've never seen a saw burn wood to the point where it's smoking
unless, like Bub suggests - backward chain. ...

Try some about 20-yr dead ash sometime...

--

On Sep 23, 7:53*pm, dpb wrote:
jim wrote:

...

I've never seen a saw burn wood to the point where it's smoking
unless, like Bub suggests - backward chain. ...

Try some about 20-yr dead ash sometime...

--

All the time. Burn lots of ash, maple, cherry and oak in the wood
stove. I use a Husqvarna. Sharpened every time I use it - never a
problem.

On Sep 23, 4:53*pm, dpb wrote:
jim wrote:

...

I've never seen a saw burn wood to the point where it's smoking
unless, like Bub suggests - backward chain. ...

Try some about 20-yr dead ash sometime...

--

Or mock orange. Its the only wood I've cut that is so dense that it
makes the chain throw sparks.

BTW, nothing will dull a chain faster than cutting a downed tree and
letting the chain cut into the dirt as it exits the tree trunk.

KC

KC wrote:
On Sep 23, 4:53 pm, dpb wrote:
jim wrote:

...

I've never seen a saw burn wood to the point where it's smoking
unless, like Bub suggests - backward chain. ...
Try some about 20-yr dead ash sometime...

--

Or mock orange. Its the only wood I've cut that is so dense that it
makes the chain throw sparks.

You sure you don't mean Osage orange (bodark)?

This ash will/does, too...standing but dead for so long it's completely
dried out. I've a bunch yet to finish cleaning up in but they're so
much work I just hate it. Plus, the way ash grows w/ that fanning out
of the branches in all directions makes it such a pita to get into one
even w/ the lift...

--

How about nails in the wood?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"KC" wrote in message
...

BTW, nothing will dull a chain faster than cutting a downed tree and
letting the chain cut into the dirt as it exits the tree trunk.

KC

In article , dpb wrote:
jim wrote:
....
I've never seen a saw burn wood to the point where it's smoking
unless, like Bub suggests - backward chain. ...

Try some about 20-yr dead ash sometime...

Or hornbeam (aka "ironwood"). The sapwood cuts like butter, the heartwood cuts
like, well, like iron.

On Tue, 23 Sep 2008 16:53:21 -0500, dpb wrote:

jim wrote:
...
I've never seen a saw burn wood to the point where it's smoking
unless, like Bub suggests - backward chain. ...

Try some about 20-yr dead ash sometime...


It doesn't have to be ash. My dull chain smoked at cutting fresh
pine, maybe it was the pine tar burning I don't know. But after
sharpening, cuts were easy with no smoking. A dull cutting edge
creates more friction, more heat.

Phisherman wrote:
On Tue, 23 Sep 2008 16:53:21 -0500, dpb wrote:

jim wrote:
...
I've never seen a saw burn wood to the point where it's smoking
unless, like Bub suggests - backward chain. ...
Try some about 20-yr dead ash sometime...


It doesn't have to be ash. My dull chain smoked at cutting fresh
pine, ...

I'm actually, really dry ash doesn't so much smoke, it shoots sparks...

....even w/ a sharp chain.

--

I have seen forward chain smoke -- if the bar oil is empty or not oiling for
some reason.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"jim" wrote in message
...

The wood smokes and the saw doesn't cut worth squat (your symptoms) if the
chain is on backwards.

Might be something to check...

I've never seen a saw burn wood to the point where it's smoking
unless, like Bub suggests - backward chain. The sharper the saw the
larger the wood chips it produces. Learn how to use and maintain the
tool before you attempt to use it. A dull saw may not cut wood but can
still take your leg off.

"HeyBub" wrote in message
...
ng_reader wrote:
Using my Poulan "Wild Thing" chainsaw this weekend, and a lot of
burnt wood where I made my cuts.

Don't recall the chain being so bad, but a new one --- on Amazon ---
is $20.
My question is, is that the definitive answer of an unsharp chain? Slow
cutting and burnt wood?

And, as a follow up, if I may, youtube showed me how to sharpen with
a tool. Doesn't look that hard, but if the tool is as much as a new
chain, well, you do the math.

thanks in advance.

The wood smokes and the saw doesn't cut worth squat (your symptoms) if the
chain is on backwards.

Might be something to check...


Oh, I will miss my easy Usenet findings once Comcast opts out of Usenet all
together.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lkSYov5jcO0&NR=1

This guy shows how easy it is to sharpen your blade. However --- however ---
I'll need to get it done professionally, eventually.

Likely for $25 I can get a tool and chain. Sharpen the old, put on the new,
have a spare.

- Do you really think it's a good idea to call your chainsaw "Wild Thing"?.
I mean, really, do you?

ng_reader wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote in message
...
ng_reader wrote:
Using my Poulan "Wild Thing" chainsaw this weekend, and a lot of
burnt wood where I made my cuts.

Don't recall the chain being so bad, but a new one --- on Amazon ---
is $20.
My question is, is that the definitive answer of an unsharp chain? Slow
cutting and burnt wood?

And, as a follow up, if I may, youtube showed me how to sharpen with
a tool. Doesn't look that hard, but if the tool is as much as a new
chain, well, you do the math.

thanks in advance.
The wood smokes and the saw doesn't cut worth squat (your symptoms) if the
chain is on backwards.

Might be something to check...


Oh, I will miss my easy Usenet findings once Comcast opts out of Usenet all
together.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lkSYov5jcO0&NR=1

This guy shows how easy it is to sharpen your blade. However --- however ---
I'll need to get it done professionally, eventually.

Likely for $25 I can get a tool and chain. Sharpen the old, put on the new,
have a spare.

- Do you really think it's a good idea to call your chainsaw "Wild Thing"?.
I mean, really, do you?


"Wild Thing" is the actual Poulan name for the chainsaw. I have one and
oil pump went under warranty so I had it sharpened while in the shop
and just resharpen with file as others suggest. Maybe not as sharp as
shop made it. Slow cutting and burnt wood was my observation too the
last time I used it. I had taken to son's house to help remove a downed
tree and did not have file.

ng_reader wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote in message
...

ng_reader wrote:

Using my Poulan "Wild Thing" chainsaw this weekend, and a lot of
burnt wood where I made my cuts.

Don't recall the chain being so bad, but a new one --- on Amazon ---
is $20.
My question is, is that the definitive answer of an unsharp chain? Slow
cutting and burnt wood?

And, as a follow up, if I may, youtube showed me how to sharpen with
a tool. Doesn't look that hard, but if the tool is as much as a new
chain, well, you do the math.

thanks in advance.

The wood smokes and the saw doesn't cut worth squat (your symptoms) if the
chain is on backwards.

Might be something to check...



Oh, I will miss my easy Usenet findings once Comcast opts out of Usenet all
together.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lkSYov5jcO0&NR=1

This guy shows how easy it is to sharpen your blade. However --- however ---
I'll need to get it done professionally, eventually.

Likely for $25 I can get a tool and chain. Sharpen the old, put on the new,
have a spare.

- Do you really think it's a good idea to call your chainsaw "Wild Thing"?.
I mean, really, do you?



Two points:

Sharpening the chain while it's on the saw avoids whatever time it takes
to remove and replace the chain. Keeping a spare chain on hand is a
great idea to let you complete your work in case you really f-up the one
on the saw.

Don't forget about the depth guides between the cutting teeth. As you
sharpen the teeth they get a little shorter and you need to
occassionally reduce the height of the depth guides so the teeth can do
their job.

*******

I use a Dremel with a chain sharpening stone on the little 16" electric
chain saw I've had for about 20 years now and which only gets used maybe
twice a summer nowadays. The spare chain I bought along with the saw is
still in its unopened package.

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

"ng_reader" wrote in message
. ..
Using my Poulan "Wild Thing" chainsaw this weekend, and a lot of burnt
wood where I made my cuts.

Don't recall the chain being so bad, but a new one --- on Amazon --- is
$20.

My question is, is that the definitive answer of an unsharp chain? Slow
cutting and burnt wood?

And, as a follow up, if I may, youtube showed me how to sharpen with a
tool. Doesn't look that hard, but if the tool is as much as a new chain,
well, you do the math.

thanks in advance.

Chainsaw sharpening IS somewhat exacting, but it ain't rocket surgery.
Those fellas who work day in and day out logging carry a file, and can get
one back into shape in a real hurry. They also carry spare chains that they
have sharpened professionally, or do on a home bench mounted sharpener.

One of the biggest thing you can do is avoid dulling. Blades dull with the
wear of cutting wood, but hitting a rock or the dirt will dull it in about
three seconds. Knowing how to avoid those places is key.

As for sharpening, it all depends on how much you cut. We went and got two
cords last weekend. I took my saw and three extra chains, and didn't have
to switch to the second one. On a bad day, I could have been into the third
one. If you're a weekend tree trimmer, or occasional user to cut firewood,
and are always close to the hardware store, it is wise to just have a couple
of extras. About $20 or less each, and about $4 to have professionally
sharpened. If you go out in the woods, and dulling all your chains will put
you in a bind, then you have to learn how to do it, or buy some kind of
accurate sharpener. Sharpening a chain too much because you don't know what
you're doing is just going to wear all the metal away, and ruin the chain.
One does not need to take a lot of metal off to sharpen a chain, but the
angles are critical.

HTH

Steve

"ng_reader" wrote in message
. ..
Using my Poulan "Wild Thing" chainsaw this weekend, and a lot of burnt
wood where I made my cuts.

Don't recall the chain being so bad, but a new one --- on Amazon --- is
$20.

My question is, is that the definitive answer of an unsharp chain? Slow
cutting and burnt wood?

And, as a follow up, if I may, youtube showed me how to sharpen with a
tool. Doesn't look that hard, but if the tool is as much as a new chain,
well, you do the math.

thanks in advance.
Take your chain down to a good hardware store and get a round file to fit
your chain, a sharpening guide that clamps on to the file and you are in
business.

I had never sharpened a chain saw chain but within 10 minutes, I had
sharpened the chain. There really isn't much to it especially if you have a
vice to hold the chain saw bar steady when the chain is mounted on the saw.
After you have done it a few times, you can carry the file with you and
sharpen as necessary right on the job site.

On Sep 24, 12:01*pm, "Worn Out Retread" wrote:
"ng_reader" wrote in message

. .. Using my Poulan "Wild Thing" chainsaw this weekend, and a lot of burnt
wood where I made my cuts.

Don't recall the chain being so bad, but a new one --- on Amazon --- is
$20.

My question is, is that the definitive answer of an unsharp chain? *Slow
cutting and burnt wood?

And, as a follow up, if I may, youtube showed me how to sharpen with a
tool. Doesn't look that hard, but if the tool is as much as a new chain,
well, you do the math.

thanks in advance.

Take your chain down to a good hardware store and get a round file to fit
your chain, a sharpening guide that clamps on to the file and you are in
business.

I had never sharpened a chain saw chain but within 10 minutes, I had
sharpened the chain. There really isn't much to it especially if you have a
vice to hold the chain saw bar steady when the chain is mounted on the saw.
After you have done it a few times, you can carry the file with you and
sharpen as necessary right on the job site.

Anybody remember that chain that 'sharpened itself'? IIRC a special
chain and an attachment.
Seem to recall the teeith were shaped completely differently and as
the chain ran an attachment touching the chain sharpened it.
Also seem to recall that it was not successful, or universally
accepted and it has disappeared?
Curious.

On Sep 23, 2:46*pm, "ng_reader" wrote:
Using my Poulan "Wild Thing" chainsaw this weekend, and a lot of burnt wood
where I made my cuts.

Don't recall the chain being so bad, but a new one --- on Amazon --- is $20.

My question is, is that the definitive answer of an unsharp chain? *Slow
cutting and burnt wood?

And, as a follow up, if I may, youtube showed me how to sharpen with a tool.
Doesn't look that hard, but if the tool is as much as a new chain, well, you
do the math.

Buy the tool once, sharpen the chain 20 times: $20
Buy 20 chains: $400
Being smarter than the log you're trying to cut: Priceless

On Sep 23, 2:46*pm, "ng_reader" wrote:

Using my Poulan "Wild Thing" chainsaw this weekend, and a lot of burnt wood
where I made my cuts.

Don't recall the chain being so bad, but a new one --- on Amazon --- is $20.

My question is, is that the definitive answer of an unsharp chain? *Slow
cutting and burnt wood?

And, as a follow up, if I may, youtube showed me how to sharpen with a tool.
Doesn't look that hard, but if the tool is as much as a new chain, well, you
do the math.

thanks in advance.

Incorrect cutting methods?

And if you wanna take the time, you can sharpen the chain with a small
"rattail" file.

definition of an 'unsharp' chain??? one that hasn't been sharpened since
the last use.


s


"Ron" wrote in message
...
On Sep 23, 2:46 pm, "ng_reader" wrote:

Using my Poulan "Wild Thing" chainsaw this weekend, and a lot of burnt
wood
where I made my cuts.

Don't recall the chain being so bad, but a new one --- on Amazon --- is
$20.

My question is, is that the definitive answer of an unsharp chain? Slow
cutting and burnt wood?

And, as a follow up, if I may, youtube showed me how to sharpen with a
tool.
Doesn't look that hard, but if the tool is as much as a new chain, well,
you
do the math.

thanks in advance.

Incorrect cutting methods?

And if you wanna take the time, you can sharpen the chain with a small
"rattail" file.

I presume you are using bar oil, and that the bar oil is properly feeding
onto the chain?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"ng_reader" wrote in message
. ..
Using my Poulan "Wild Thing" chainsaw this weekend, and a lot of burnt wood
where I made my cuts.

Don't recall the chain being so bad, but a new one --- on Amazon --- is $20.

My question is, is that the definitive answer of an unsharp chain? Slow
cutting and burnt wood?

And, as a follow up, if I may, youtube showed me how to sharpen with a tool.
Doesn't look that hard, but if the tool is as much as a new chain, well, you
do the math.

thanks in advance.

On Sep 24, 5:40*am, wrote:
On Tue, 23 Sep 2008 14:46:16 -0400, "ng_reader"

wrote:
Using my Poulan "Wild Thing" chainsaw this weekend, and a lot of burnt wood
where I made my cuts.

Don't recall the chain being so bad, but a new one --- on Amazon --- is $20.

My question is, is that the definitive answer of an unsharp chain? *Slow
cutting and burnt wood?

And, as a follow up, if I may, youtube showed me how to sharpen with a tool.
Doesn't look that hard, but if the tool is as much as a new chain, well, you
do the math.

thanks in advance.

Hey! Look whats' on special right now!

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93213

I got one the year they put them up for $39.99. Not worth the money
IMO but maybe I got a bad one. It is a bit flimsy and mine does not
sharpen the teeth on both sides to the same lenght. I have to play
around with the 'tooth stop' and a micrometer to get it right after
changing sides. Others who have bought them are satisfied however.

If anyone does buy one, order up a couple extra wheels at the same
time. Also visit a good hardware site or store for a "wheel dressing"
'stone'. Then before using a new wheel, hold a piece of thick
carstock against it to get the right profile and file that card away
so you can refer to it when dressing the wheel.

Harry K