What are the pro's and con's of a shorter stroke (3/4" vs 1.25") and how
does the orbital action feature work (and why whould I want it) ???

I'm looking at a Milwaukee 6509-xx (where xx is a number like 20, 21,
22). Anyone know the exact differences between these model numbers?

I'm looking at the Milwaukee because it seems to have the least amount
of play or wobble in the blade and the shaft mechanism versus other
saws.

I'd say one major con is that you are only using 3/4" of the blade. Say
you're cutting something a half inch thick (like sheetrock) it's gonna wear
a blade to uselessness almost twice as fast. You'll have a bunch of good
teeth that aren't being used.. the oribital action is just gonna make your
hand numb quicker.

Just a thought.

s


"Some Guy" wrote in message ...
What are the pro's and con's of a shorter stroke (3/4" vs 1.25") and how
does the orbital action feature work (and why whould I want it) ???

I'm looking at a Milwaukee 6509-xx (where xx is a number like 20, 21,
22). Anyone know the exact differences between these model numbers?

I'm looking at the Milwaukee because it seems to have the least amount
of play or wobble in the blade and the shaft mechanism versus other
saws.

In article , says...

What are the pro's and con's of a shorter stroke (3/4" vs 1.25") and how
does the orbital action feature work (and why whould I want it) ???

I'm looking at a Milwaukee 6509-xx (where xx is a number like 20, 21,
22). Anyone know the exact differences between these model numbers?

I'm looking at the Milwaukee because it seems to have the least amount
of play or wobble in the blade and the shaft mechanism versus other
saws.


I have the folding Milwaukee Hatchet with both features and really like it. The
orbital action helps it cut in wood, but the action seems less pronounced than
a jig saw with orbital cutting.

The shorter stroke makes it much easier to control when cutting where the blade
can ram into something that is behind the stuff you are cutting, and makes
blind starts easier. Both are situations I encounter frequently in remodeling.

For instance, we just removed an old porch floor, and had to pull the flooring
boards straight out of the wall since they had siding nailed down over the top
of them and couldn't be pried up. This left dozens of nails in the space where
the boards ended, and where the new boards had to fit. If you try to cut the
nails off with long stroke recip, you either jam the blade into the back of the
recess, or the blade strokes forward too much and drops off the nail.

If you primarily just cut stuff off in roomy spaces, the longer stroke will cut
faster.

--
MacD