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#1
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On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 01:18:49 -0500, Uncle Monster
wrote: Square Peg wrote: I have several of Magnivision Titanium reading glasses. They are by far the best I've tried, and I've tried just about every brand there is. http://www.magnivision.com/collection.cfm?catid=8 There is just one little problem. The nose piece and the side pieces are attached to the lenses with tiny bolts with a tiny nut on the inside. Over time (few months), these work loose. If I catch them soon enough, I can tighten them and they will stay put for another few months. If I am too slow, the glasses fall apart. The ones for the nose piece are much more likely to loosen, probably because they get wiggled more. I have tried superglue, but it really doesn't hold. Can anyone recommend a way to secure these nuts? If it is permament, so much the better. I don't know why they don't use rivets. I will never want to loosen these nuts. Careful use of an automatic center punch could stake the ends of the screws as they come out of the nuts expanding them enough to keep them tight. You may be able to find a small automatic center punch at your local Lowe's Depot store. After you obtain one, you may ask yourself "Why did I never get one of these incredibly useful gadgets before now?" I have several different sizes of the things. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automatic_center_punch http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-.../dp/B00004T7RJ Amazon has several others: http://www.amazon.com/Starrett-18A-A...9872873&sr=8-3 http://www.amazon.com/Starrett-18B-A...9872873&sr=8-1 http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-...9873150&sr=8-4 Are they all pretty much the same? Do I need a small one and a larger one? As long as I am justifying tools to the bean counter... |
#2
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Square Peg wrote:
On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 01:18:49 -0500, Uncle Monster wrote: Square Peg wrote: I have several of Magnivision Titanium reading glasses. They are by far the best I've tried, and I've tried just about every brand there is. http://www.magnivision.com/collection.cfm?catid=8 There is just one little problem. The nose piece and the side pieces are attached to the lenses with tiny bolts with a tiny nut on the inside. Over time (few months), these work loose. If I catch them soon enough, I can tighten them and they will stay put for another few months. If I am too slow, the glasses fall apart. The ones for the nose piece are much more likely to loosen, probably because they get wiggled more. I have tried superglue, but it really doesn't hold. Can anyone recommend a way to secure these nuts? If it is permament, so much the better. I don't know why they don't use rivets. I will never want to loosen these nuts. Careful use of an automatic center punch could stake the ends of the screws as they come out of the nuts expanding them enough to keep them tight. You may be able to find a small automatic center punch at your local Lowe's Depot store. After you obtain one, you may ask yourself "Why did I never get one of these incredibly useful gadgets before now?" I have several different sizes of the things. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automatic_center_punch http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-.../dp/B00004T7RJ Amazon has several others: http://www.amazon.com/Starrett-18A-A...9872873&sr=8-3 http://www.amazon.com/Starrett-18B-A...9872873&sr=8-1 http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-...9873150&sr=8-4 Are they all pretty much the same? Do I need a small one and a larger one? As long as I am justifying tools to the bean counter... Those are all the mid sized tools. I have that size, bigger and smaller. The small pocket sized punch is probably more what you would use on tiny screws. I just used mine on some #4 machine screws to stake them. http://www.generaltools.com/Products...Punch__87.aspx You can grind or file the point to make it sharper for fine work. I use my punches as screw starters in wood too. When I hang a shelf or piece of equipment on a backboard and want it to be straight and level, I mark the mounting points then use the punch to make a hole in the center of my pencil mark so the screw doesn't wander off to points unknown. [8~{} Uncle Monster |
#3
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Try loctite--will secure it and easy to break the bond if you want to remove
the screw. MLD "Uncle Monster" wrote in message ... Square Peg wrote: On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 01:18:49 -0500, Uncle Monster wrote: Square Peg wrote: I have several of Magnivision Titanium reading glasses. They are by far the best I've tried, and I've tried just about every brand there is. http://www.magnivision.com/collection.cfm?catid=8 There is just one little problem. The nose piece and the side pieces are attached to the lenses with tiny bolts with a tiny nut on the inside. Over time (few months), these work loose. If I catch them soon enough, I can tighten them and they will stay put for another few months. If I am too slow, the glasses fall apart. The ones for the nose piece are much more likely to loosen, probably because they get wiggled more. I have tried superglue, but it really doesn't hold. Can anyone recommend a way to secure these nuts? If it is permament, so much the better. I don't know why they don't use rivets. I will never want to loosen these nuts. Careful use of an automatic center punch could stake the ends of the screws as they come out of the nuts expanding them enough to keep them tight. You may be able to find a small automatic center punch at your local Lowe's Depot store. After you obtain one, you may ask yourself "Why did I never get one of these incredibly useful gadgets before now?" I have several different sizes of the things. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automatic_center_punch http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-.../dp/B00004T7RJ Amazon has several others: http://www.amazon.com/Starrett-18A-A...9872873&sr=8-3 http://www.amazon.com/Starrett-18B-A...9872873&sr=8-1 http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-...9873150&sr=8-4 Are they all pretty much the same? Do I need a small one and a larger one? As long as I am justifying tools to the bean counter... Those are all the mid sized tools. I have that size, bigger and smaller. The small pocket sized punch is probably more what you would use on tiny screws. I just used mine on some #4 machine screws to stake them. http://www.generaltools.com/Products...Punch__87.aspx You can grind or file the point to make it sharper for fine work. I use my punches as screw starters in wood too. When I hang a shelf or piece of equipment on a backboard and want it to be straight and level, I mark the mounting points then use the punch to make a hole in the center of my pencil mark so the screw doesn't wander off to points unknown. [8~{} Uncle Monster |
#4
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On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 01:18:49 -0500, Uncle Monster
wrote: Square Peg wrote: I have several of Magnivision Titanium reading glasses. They are by far the best I've tried, and I've tried just about every brand there is. http://www.magnivision.com/collection.cfm?catid=8 There is just one little problem. The nose piece and the side pieces are attached to the lenses with tiny bolts with a tiny nut on the inside. Over time (few months), these work loose. If I catch them soon enough, I can tighten them and they will stay put for another few months. If I am too slow, the glasses fall apart. The ones for the nose piece are much more likely to loosen, probably because they get wiggled more. I have tried superglue, but it really doesn't hold. Can anyone recommend a way to secure these nuts? If it is permament, so much the better. I don't know why they don't use rivets. I will never want to loosen these nuts. Careful use of an automatic center punch could stake the ends of the screws as they come out of the nuts expanding them enough to keep them tight. You may be able to find a small automatic center punch at your local Lowe's Depot store. After you obtain one, you may ask yourself "Why did I never get one of these incredibly useful gadgets before now?" I have several different sizes of the things. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automatic_center_punch http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-.../dp/B00004T7RJ I just got the GT-ACP you suggested. Cool little tool. I never knew it existed. Thanks for the tip. It will come in handy. (You can never have too many tools.) However, when I tried it on the glasses, I couldn't keep it on thje end of the little bolt. It looks like it has a rounded end. I almost punched a hole in the glasses. Maybe someone with better coordination and better eyesight could make it work. I think the Loctite will do the job, but I am very glad to have this little tools. Thanks |
#5
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![]() "Square Peg" wrote in message ... I have several of Magnivision Titanium reading glasses. They are by far the best I've tried, and I've tried just about every brand there is. http://www.magnivision.com/collection.cfm?catid=8 There is just one little problem. The nose piece and the side pieces are attached to the lenses with tiny bolts with a tiny nut on the inside. Over time (few months), these work loose. If I catch them soon enough, I can tighten them and they will stay put for another few months. If I am too slow, the glasses fall apart. The ones for the nose piece are much more likely to loosen, probably because they get wiggled more. I have tried superglue, but it really doesn't hold. Can anyone recommend a way to secure these nuts? If it is permament, so much the better. I don't know why they don't use rivets. I will never want to loosen these nuts. A little bit of paint on the threads should do it - primer even better. |
#6
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Nail polish before assembly
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#7
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On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 03:55:41 -0400, wrote:
Nail polish before assembly Does that work? Because it's just sticky enough? |
#8
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In article , Square Peg wrote:
On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 03:55:41 -0400, wrote: Nail polish before assembly Does that work? Because it's just sticky enough? It works, but not nearly as well as Loctite, which was specifically designed for exactly the purpose you want: to prevent screws from working loose. Nail polish dries hard and brittle, and will eventually crack and fall away, allowing the screws to loosen. Loctite will remain slightly flexible for years. It's five bucks at an auto parts store. One drop per screw is all you need. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com) Join the UseNet Improvement Project: killfile Google Groups. http://www.improve-usenet.org Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com You must use your REAL email address to get a response. Download Nfilter at http://www.milmac.com/np-120.exe |
#10
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In article , Smitty Two wrote:
In article , (Doug Miller) wrote: In article , Square Peg wrote: On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 03:55:41 -0400, wrote: Nail polish before assembly Does that work? Because it's just sticky enough? It works, but not nearly as well as Loctite, which was specifically designed for exactly the purpose you want: to prevent screws from working loose. Nail polish dries hard and brittle, and will eventually crack and fall away, allowing the screws to loosen. Loctite will remain slightly flexible for years. It's five bucks at an auto parts store. One drop per screw is all you need. For an eyeglass screw, make that about 1/20 of a drop! True, true. Best way to apply it is probably to put a drop on a piece of paper, then use the point of a toothpick to apply a tiny bit to the screw. |
#11
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On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 07:40:29 -0700, Square Peg
wrote: On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 03:55:41 -0400, wrote: Nail polish before assembly Does that work? Because it's just sticky enough? Yes it works like just like small screw Loctite except you don't have to run to the hardware store and spend any money It is best to clean and dry the screw and nut with alcohol before assembly. |
#12
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On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 14:34:55 -0400, wrote:
On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 07:40:29 -0700, Square Peg wrote: On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 03:55:41 -0400, wrote: Nail polish before assembly Does that work? Because it's just sticky enough? Yes it works like just like small screw Loctite except you don't have to run to the hardware store and spend any money. Hold on there, pardner. It ain't a DIY project without at least two (2) trips to the hardware store. ;-) It is best to clean and dry the screw and nut with alcohol before assembly. Heck, I was just gonna squirt the Loctite right in there without even taking the nut off. (Unless the instructions say otherwise and my wife is helping/watching.) I always drop those little buggers on the carpet or lawn and can never find them. |
#13
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![]() Heck, I was just gonna squirt the Loctite right in there without even taking the nut off. (Unless the instructions say otherwise and my wife is helping/watching.) I always drop those little buggers on the carpet or lawn and can never find them. I you plan on the above then you want to use a wicking Loctite. It uses capillary action to enter the joint. http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Thread.../dp/B0002KKTRM |
#14
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Square Peg wrote:
On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 03:55:41 -0400, wrote: Nail polish before assembly Does that work? Because it's just sticky enough? If you open up a piece of cheap consumer electronic gear like a battery operated AM/FM radio you will often see a red varnish painted on all of the tiny screws and nuts that hold things together. [8~{} Uncle Monster |
#15
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On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 19:06:09 -0700, Square Peg
wrote: I have several of Magnivision Titanium reading glasses. They are by far the best I've tried, and I've tried just about every brand there is. http://www.magnivision.com/collection.cfm?catid=8 There is just one little problem. The nose piece and the side pieces are attached to the lenses with tiny bolts with a tiny nut on the inside. Over time (few months), these work loose. If I catch them soon enough, I can tighten them and they will stay put for another few months. If I am too slow, the glasses fall apart. The ones for the nose piece are much more likely to loosen, probably because they get wiggled more. I have tried superglue, but it really doesn't hold. Can anyone recommend a way to secure these nuts? If it is permament, so much the better. I don't know why they don't use rivets. I will never want to loosen these nuts. Loctite will usually hold a screw. |
#16
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In article , Square Peg wrote:
There is just one little problem. The nose piece and the side pieces are attached to the lenses with tiny bolts with a tiny nut on the inside. Over time (few months), these work loose. [...] Can anyone recommend a way to secure these nuts? Loctite brand thread locker, available at any auto parts store. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com) Join the UseNet Improvement Project: killfile Google Groups. http://www.improve-usenet.org Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com You must use your REAL email address to get a response. Download Nfilter at http://www.milmac.com/np-120.exe |
#17
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On my eye glasses, I pulled the screws out, and dabbed clear nail polish
into the hole. Right before bed, so I wouldn't have nail polish vapor near my eyes. So far, they havn't loosened up. I can't remember how long ago was that. But it was some time after the Truman administration. Might have been after Clinton adminstration, too. -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "Square Peg" wrote in message ... I have several of Magnivision Titanium reading glasses. They are by far the best I've tried, and I've tried just about every brand there is. http://www.magnivision.com/collection.cfm?catid=8 There is just one little problem. The nose piece and the side pieces are attached to the lenses with tiny bolts with a tiny nut on the inside. Over time (few months), these work loose. If I catch them soon enough, I can tighten them and they will stay put for another few months. If I am too slow, the glasses fall apart. The ones for the nose piece are much more likely to loosen, probably because they get wiggled more. I have tried superglue, but it really doesn't hold. Can anyone recommend a way to secure these nuts? If it is permament, so much the better. I don't know why they don't use rivets. I will never want to loosen these nuts. |
#18
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Loctite is the solution. I've heard - but don't know - that it can eat
plastic. When I use it for plastic eye glasses I wrap the lenses in saran wrap or scotch tape until the job is done. Square Peg wrote: I have several of Magnivision Titanium reading glasses. They are by far the best I've tried, and I've tried just about every brand there is. http://www.magnivision.com/collection.cfm?catid=8 There is just one little problem. The nose piece and the side pieces are attached to the lenses with tiny bolts with a tiny nut on the inside. Over time (few months), these work loose. If I catch them soon enough, I can tighten them and they will stay put for another few months. If I am too slow, the glasses fall apart. The ones for the nose piece are much more likely to loosen, probably because they get wiggled more. I have tried superglue, but it really doesn't hold. Can anyone recommend a way to secure these nuts? If it is permament, so much the better. I don't know why they don't use rivets. I will never want to loosen these nuts. |
#19
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On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 09:53:54 -0700, Bennett Price
wrote: Loctite is the solution. I've heard - but don't know - that it can eat plastic. When I use it for plastic eye glasses I wrap the lenses in saran wrap or scotch tape until the job is done. Plastic wrap is a good idea. I plan to use just a tiny drop on a toothpick or something and not get any on the lenses, but I never plan to super-glue my fingers together, either. |
#20
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On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 10:05:59 -0700, Square Peg wrote:
On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 09:53:54 -0700, Bennett Price wrote: Loctite is the solution. I've heard - but don't know - that it can eat plastic. When I use it for plastic eye glasses I wrap the lenses in saran wrap or scotch tape until the job is done. Plastic wrap is a good idea. I plan to use just a tiny drop on a toothpick or something and not get any on the lenses, but I never plan to super-glue my fingers together, either. getting any kind of adhesive on the lens would be bad. |
#21
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On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 12:27:31 -0500, AZ Nomad
wrote: On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 10:05:59 -0700, Square Peg wrote: On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 09:53:54 -0700, Bennett Price wrote: Loctite is the solution. I've heard - but don't know - that it can eat plastic. When I use it for plastic eye glasses I wrap the lenses in saran wrap or scotch tape until the job is done. Plastic wrap is a good idea. I plan to use just a tiny drop on a toothpick or something and not get any on the lenses, but I never plan to super-glue my fingers together, either. getting any kind of adhesive on the lens would be bad. ya think? |
#22
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Square Peg wrote:
On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 12:27:31 -0500, AZ Nomad wrote: On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 10:05:59 -0700, Square Peg wrote: On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 09:53:54 -0700, Bennett Price wrote: Loctite is the solution. I've heard - but don't know - that it can eat plastic. When I use it for plastic eye glasses I wrap the lenses in saran wrap or scotch tape until the job is done. Plastic wrap is a good idea. I plan to use just a tiny drop on a toothpick or something and not get any on the lenses, but I never plan to super-glue my fingers together, either. getting any kind of adhesive on the lens would be bad. ya think? just use a dab of clear nail polish.... paul |
#23
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![]() Square Peg wrote: Can anyone recommend a way to secure these nuts? If it is permament, so much the better. I don't know why they don't use rivets. I will never want to loosen these nuts. Green LockTite. It is permanent (like the red) but it also is penetrating. So you can use apply it after assembling -- probably with a toothpick in this case. Bob |
#24
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On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 15:36:07 -0500, zxcvbob
wrote: Square Peg wrote: Can anyone recommend a way to secure these nuts? If it is permament, so much the better. I don't know why they don't use rivets. I will never want to loosen these nuts. Green LockTite. It is permanent (like the red) but it also is penetrating. So you can use apply it after assembling -- probably with a toothpick in this case. That's 2 recommendations for green and one for blue. The Loctite site has this information about the three colors of "threadlockers": green, red, and blue: Green: For smaller fasteners. Doesn't say anything about being penetrating or permanent. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/produ...id=48&plid=695 Red: For larger fasteners. Seems to be more permanent. Requires heat and hand tools to remove. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/produ...id=48&plid=154 Blue: For medium-size fasteners. Appears to be less permanent. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/produ...id=48&plid=153 None of them say anything about being penetrating. The green seems harder to find. So far, one hardware store and one auto-supply store had only the red and the blue. I finally found it at a Napa store, but it's 10 miles away. So, I went to Amazon. They have all three and better descriptions: Green: http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Thread...7198 6&sr=8-1 Loctite 290 Green threadlocker is a low viscosity threadlocking liquid that wicks along the threadsof pre-assembled fasteners to secure them in place. Since it is applied after assembly preventive maintenance procedures are simplified. Ideal for fasteners ranging from #2 to 1/2" (2.2 to 12mm) in size. Localized heating and hand tools needed for disassembly. Suggested applications: Bolts on alternators air conditioning belts and distributor clamps carburetor adjustment screws and hairline cracks. It's bit unsettling that the photo is of a *red* package ;-) Red: http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Thread...72297&sr= 8-1 Loctite 272 Red withstands temperatures to 450 Degrees F. This high-temp/High-strength threadlocker is formulated for heavy-duty applications. Prevents bolts up to 1-1/2" (36mm) from loosening due to shock severe vibration and heatstress. An exclusive formulation for newer engines and high performance applications where extreme temperature resistance is required. removable with heat and hand tools. Suggested applications: Camshaft sprocket bolts crankshaft bolts idler bearings press fit filler tubes transmission input and output shaft threads ring gear and shock bolts. Blue: http://www.amazon.com/Henkel-Loctite...9872406&sr=8-1 Loctite Threadlocker Blue 242 locks threaded metal fasteners against loosening from machine vibration. It prevents leaks and rusting of metal threads for 1/4- to 3/4-inch (6 mm to 20 mm) nuts and bolts. Metal parts can be removed with hand tools for easy disassembly if necessary. Sets in 20 minutes and cures in 24 hours. Especially useful for small motors, mowers and many types of power equipment. It looks like green is the one for this job. Thanks. |
#25
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![]() "Square Peg" wrote in message ... On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 15:36:07 -0500, zxcvbob wrote: Square Peg wrote: Can anyone recommend a way to secure these nuts? If it is permament, so much the better. I don't know why they don't use rivets. I will never want to loosen these nuts. Green LockTite. It is permanent (like the red) but it also is penetrating. So you can use apply it after assembling -- probably with a toothpick in this case. That's 2 recommendations for green and one for blue. The Loctite site has this information about the three colors of "threadlockers": green, red, and blue: Green: For smaller fasteners. Doesn't say anything about being penetrating or permanent. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/produ...id=48&plid=695 Red: For larger fasteners. Seems to be more permanent. Requires heat and hand tools to remove. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/produ...id=48&plid=154 Blue: For medium-size fasteners. Appears to be less permanent. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/produ...id=48&plid=153 None of them say anything about being penetrating. The green seems harder to find. So far, one hardware store and one auto-supply store had only the red and the blue. I finally found it at a Napa store, but it's 10 miles away. So, I went to Amazon. They have all three and better descriptions: Green: http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Thread...7198 6&sr=8-1 Loctite 290 Green threadlocker is a low viscosity threadlocking liquid that wicks along the threadsof pre-assembled fasteners to secure them in place. Since it is applied after assembly preventive maintenance procedures are simplified. Ideal for fasteners ranging from #2 to 1/2" (2.2 to 12mm) in size. Localized heating and hand tools needed for disassembly. Suggested applications: Bolts on alternators air conditioning belts and distributor clamps carburetor adjustment screws and hairline cracks. It's bit unsettling that the photo is of a *red* package ;-) Red: http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Thread...72297&sr= 8-1 Loctite 272 Red withstands temperatures to 450 Degrees F. This high-temp/High-strength threadlocker is formulated for heavy-duty applications. Prevents bolts up to 1-1/2" (36mm) from loosening due to shock severe vibration and heatstress. An exclusive formulation for newer engines and high performance applications where extreme temperature resistance is required. removable with heat and hand tools. Suggested applications: Camshaft sprocket bolts crankshaft bolts idler bearings press fit filler tubes transmission input and output shaft threads ring gear and shock bolts. Blue: http://www.amazon.com/Henkel-Loctite...9872406&sr=8-1 Loctite Threadlocker Blue 242 locks threaded metal fasteners against loosening from machine vibration. It prevents leaks and rusting of metal threads for 1/4- to 3/4-inch (6 mm to 20 mm) nuts and bolts. Metal parts can be removed with hand tools for easy disassembly if necessary. Sets in 20 minutes and cures in 24 hours. Especially useful for small motors, mowers and many types of power equipment. It looks like green is the one for this job. Thanks. That's 2 recommendations for green and one for blue. The Loctite site has this information about the three colors of "threadlockers": green, red, and blue: OK so change mine to the green. The blue should still work though, just may need to loosen the screw a bit, apply the blue locktite, then tighten. (this has been an interesting thread,,,,,,) Tony |
#26
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On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 20:17:53 -0700, "Anthony Diodati" mrbreezeet1NO
wrote: "Square Peg" wrote in message .. . On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 15:36:07 -0500, zxcvbob wrote: Square Peg wrote: Can anyone recommend a way to secure these nuts? If it is permament, so much the better. I don't know why they don't use rivets. I will never want to loosen these nuts. Green LockTite. It is permanent (like the red) but it also is penetrating. So you can use apply it after assembling -- probably with a toothpick in this case. That's 2 recommendations for green and one for blue. The Loctite site has this information about the three colors of "threadlockers": green, red, and blue: Green: For smaller fasteners. Doesn't say anything about being penetrating or permanent. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/produ...id=48&plid=695 Red: For larger fasteners. Seems to be more permanent. Requires heat and hand tools to remove. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/produ...id=48&plid=154 Blue: For medium-size fasteners. Appears to be less permanent. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/produ...id=48&plid=153 None of them say anything about being penetrating. The green seems harder to find. So far, one hardware store and one auto-supply store had only the red and the blue. I finally found it at a Napa store, but it's 10 miles away. So, I went to Amazon. They have all three and better descriptions: Green: http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Thread...7198 6&sr=8-1 Loctite 290 Green threadlocker is a low viscosity threadlocking liquid that wicks along the threadsof pre-assembled fasteners to secure them in place. Since it is applied after assembly preventive maintenance procedures are simplified. Ideal for fasteners ranging from #2 to 1/2" (2.2 to 12mm) in size. Localized heating and hand tools needed for disassembly. Suggested applications: Bolts on alternators air conditioning belts and distributor clamps carburetor adjustment screws and hairline cracks. It's bit unsettling that the photo is of a *red* package ;-) Red: http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Thread...72297&sr= 8-1 Loctite 272 Red withstands temperatures to 450 Degrees F. This high-temp/High-strength threadlocker is formulated for heavy-duty applications. Prevents bolts up to 1-1/2" (36mm) from loosening due to shock severe vibration and heatstress. An exclusive formulation for newer engines and high performance applications where extreme temperature resistance is required. removable with heat and hand tools. Suggested applications: Camshaft sprocket bolts crankshaft bolts idler bearings press fit filler tubes transmission input and output shaft threads ring gear and shock bolts. Blue: http://www.amazon.com/Henkel-Loctite...9872406&sr=8-1 Loctite Threadlocker Blue 242 locks threaded metal fasteners against loosening from machine vibration. It prevents leaks and rusting of metal threads for 1/4- to 3/4-inch (6 mm to 20 mm) nuts and bolts. Metal parts can be removed with hand tools for easy disassembly if necessary. Sets in 20 minutes and cures in 24 hours. Especially useful for small motors, mowers and many types of power equipment. It looks like green is the one for this job. Thanks. That's 2 recommendations for green and one for blue. The Loctite site has this information about the three colors of "threadlockers": green, red, and blue: OK so change mine to the green. The blue should still work though, just may need to loosen the screw a bit, apply the blue locktite, then tighten. (this has been an interesting thread,,,,,,) Tony I've ordered the green from Amazon. I just arrived at the office to find another pair of glasses with loose hinges. When it arrives, I'll give it a test. |
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![]() "Anthony Diodati" mrbreezeet1NO wrote in message ... (this has been an interesting thread,,,,,,) GROAN |
#28
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In article , Square Peg wrote:
[snip over-long descriptions of differences between various Loctite products] Good Lord, man! IT DOESN'T MATTER. It's a teeny, tiny screw. ANY OF THE THREE will work just fine. |
#29
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#30
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![]() "Square Peg" wrote in message ... On Thu, 28 Aug 2008 11:08:22 GMT, (Doug Miller) wrote: In article , Square Peg wrote: [snip over-long descriptions of differences between various Loctite products] Good Lord, man! IT DOESN'T MATTER. It's a teeny, tiny screw. ANY OF THE THREE will work just fine. Good Lord, man! IF THIS ANNOYS YOU, DON'T READ IT. This particular project doesn't amount to a hill of beans. But I have LEARNED A LOT ABOUT THE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN LOCTITE PRODUCT, which may be useful on other projects. Does your usenet reader allow you to ignore threads? I liked the thread too....... Tony |
#31
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![]() "Square Peg" wrote in message ... I have several of Magnivision Titanium reading glasses. They are by far the best I've tried, and I've tried just about every brand there is. http://www.magnivision.com/collection.cfm?catid=8 There is just one little problem. The nose piece and the side pieces are attached to the lenses with tiny bolts with a tiny nut on the inside. Over time (few months), these work loose. If I catch them soon enough, I can tighten them and they will stay put for another few months. If I am too slow, the glasses fall apart. The ones for the nose piece are much more likely to loosen, probably because they get wiggled more. I have tried superglue, but it really doesn't hold. Can anyone recommend a way to secure these nuts? If it is permament, so much the better. I don't know why they don't use rivets. I will never want to loosen these nuts. Take them where you bought them. They may prefer some way, i.e. Loctite, SuperGlue, clear nail polish. There may be some reason that one of the things suggested here might not work well, like discoloring the metal, eating up any plastic it touches, etc. Something that one would not normally think of, but in this application would be critical or detrimental enough not to be a consideration. If it were just a nut and bolt, there could be lots of suggestions that would probably work. Since this is a tiny item, with unknown coatings, and unknown properties, if it were me, I'd take it to where I bought it. They may even have a tube of GlassGoo or something that is made specifically for that. BTW, I have three pairs of titanium glasses, and there's nothing better. But I do have to watch those little screws. Steve |
#32
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SteveB wrote:
Take them where you bought them. They may prefer some way, i.e. Loctite, SuperGlue, clear nail polish. They look like the three pair I have. If his source was like mine, a drugstore, the staff likely won't be of much help. Green Loctite did the job for me. Just a tiny bit applied with a broomstraw to the threads emerging from the nuts. Don't overdo it. There may be some reason that one of the things suggested here might not work well, like discoloring the metal, eating up any plastic it touches, etc. Something that one would not normally think of, but in this application would be critical or detrimental enough not to be a consideration. If it were just a nut and bolt, there could be lots of suggestions that would probably work. Since this is a tiny item, with unknown coatings, and unknown properties, if it were me, I'd take it to where I bought it. They may even have a tube of GlassGoo or something that is made specifically for that. BTW, I have three pairs of titanium glasses, and there's nothing better. But I do have to watch those little screws. Steve |
#33
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On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 21:27:17 -0800, "SteveB" toquerville@zionvistas
wrote: "Square Peg" wrote in message .. . I have several of Magnivision Titanium reading glasses. They are by far the best I've tried, and I've tried just about every brand there is. http://www.magnivision.com/collection.cfm?catid=8 There is just one little problem. The nose piece and the side pieces are attached to the lenses with tiny bolts with a tiny nut on the inside. Over time (few months), these work loose. If I catch them soon enough, I can tighten them and they will stay put for another few months. If I am too slow, the glasses fall apart. The ones for the nose piece are much more likely to loosen, probably because they get wiggled more. I have tried superglue, but it really doesn't hold. Can anyone recommend a way to secure these nuts? If it is permament, so much the better. I don't know why they don't use rivets. I will never want to loosen these nuts. Take them where you bought them. They may prefer some way, i.e. Loctite, SuperGlue, clear nail polish. There may be some reason that one of the things suggested here might not work well, like discoloring the metal, eating up any plastic it touches, etc. Something that one would not normally think of, but in this application would be critical or detrimental enough not to be a consideration. If it were just a nut and bolt, there could be lots of suggestions that would probably work. Since this is a tiny item, with unknown coatings, and unknown properties, if it were me, I'd take it to where I bought it. They may even have a tube of GlassGoo or something that is made specifically for that. You think I'll get more than a blank stare at Long's Drug Store? |
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