On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 10:05:59 -0700, Square Peg wrote:
On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 09:53:54 -0700, Bennett Price
wrote:

Loctite is the solution. I've heard - but don't know - that it can eat
plastic. When I use it for plastic eye glasses I wrap the lenses in
saran wrap or scotch tape until the job is done.

Plastic wrap is a good idea. I plan to use just a tiny drop on a
toothpick or something and not get any on the lenses, but I never plan
to super-glue my fingers together, either.

getting any kind of adhesive on the lens would be bad.

On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 07:40:29 -0700, Square Peg
wrote:

On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 03:55:41 -0400, wrote:

Nail polish before assembly

Does that work? Because it's just sticky enough?

Yes it works like just like small screw Loctite except you don't have
to run to the hardware store and spend any money It is best to clean
and dry the screw and nut with alcohol before assembly.

On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 12:27:31 -0500, AZ Nomad
wrote:

On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 10:05:59 -0700, Square Peg wrote:
On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 09:53:54 -0700, Bennett Price
wrote:

Loctite is the solution. I've heard - but don't know - that it can eat
plastic. When I use it for plastic eye glasses I wrap the lenses in
saran wrap or scotch tape until the job is done.

Plastic wrap is a good idea. I plan to use just a tiny drop on a
toothpick or something and not get any on the lenses, but I never plan
to super-glue my fingers together, either.

getting any kind of adhesive on the lens would be bad.

ya think?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automatic_center_punch

http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-.../dp/B00004T7RJ

Wow. I never heard of these things. I'll get one and give it a try.

This tool is usually in a car thief's toolbox. A quick almost silent
way to shatter a side window of a prospective car. Also something
you don't want a cop to see you have. Many cops think tools like this
are only used by car thieves.

On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 14:44:26 -0400, wrote:


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automatic_center_punch

http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-.../dp/B00004T7RJ

Wow. I never heard of these things. I'll get one and give it a try.

This tool is usually in a car thief's toolbox. A quick almost silent
way to shatter a side window of a prospective car. Also something
you don't want a cop to see you have. Many cops think tools like this
are only used by car thieves.

You can get arrested (or hassled) for just having such a tool? Being
right next to a slim jim and a crow bar probably wouldn't help, then?

I didn't plan to keep it in the car (except on the way home from the
hardware store) or on my person (except when actually shattering the
lenses in my glasses). I guess I could always show the cop my repaired
(or shattered) glasses! ;-)

On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 14:34:55 -0400, wrote:

On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 07:40:29 -0700, Square Peg
wrote:

On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 03:55:41 -0400, wrote:

Nail polish before assembly

Does that work? Because it's just sticky enough?

Yes it works like just like small screw Loctite except you don't have
to run to the hardware store and spend any money.

Hold on there, pardner. It ain't a DIY project without at least two
(2) trips to the hardware store. ;-)

It is best to clean
and dry the screw and nut with alcohol before assembly.

Heck, I was just gonna squirt the Loctite right in there without even
taking the nut off. (Unless the instructions say otherwise and my wife
is helping/watching.) I always drop those little buggers on the carpet
or lawn and can never find them.

wrote:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automatic_center_punch

http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-.../dp/B00004T7RJ
Wow. I never heard of these things. I'll get one and give it a try.

This tool is usually in a car thief's toolbox. A quick almost silent
way to shatter a side window of a prospective car. Also something
you don't want a cop to see you have. Many cops think tools like this
are only used by car thieves.

I keep the small one in my work shirt
pocket next to the little screwdrivers,
markers, thermometer, ball point pen,
etc. I had a service call at The U.S.
Attorney's office in downtown a while
back and had to explain to the security
guards that I had all manner of sharp
metallic objects on my person and in my
tool case. It was no problem because I
was there to make legal use of all my
sharp implements, including my rather
small brain. *snicker*

[8~{} Uncle Monster

Square Peg wrote:
On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 03:55:41 -0400, wrote:

Nail polish before assembly

Does that work? Because it's just sticky enough?

If you open up a piece of cheap consumer electronic
gear like a battery operated AM/FM radio you will
often see a red varnish painted on all of the tiny
screws and nuts that hold things together.

[8~{} Uncle Monster

On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 14:36:29 -0500, Uncle Monster
wrote:

wrote:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automatic_center_punch

http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-.../dp/B00004T7RJ
Wow. I never heard of these things. I'll get one and give it a try.

This tool is usually in a car thief's toolbox. A quick almost silent
way to shatter a side window of a prospective car. Also something
you don't want a cop to see you have. Many cops think tools like this
are only used by car thieves.

I keep the small one in my work shirt
pocket next to the little screwdrivers,
markers, thermometer, ball point pen,
etc. I had a service call at The U.S.
Attorney's office in downtown a while
back and had to explain to the security
guards that I had all manner of sharp
metallic objects on my person and in my
tool case. It was no problem because I
was there to make legal use of all my
sharp implements, including my rather
small brain. *snicker*

Your brain is small, but very sharp?

Are you allowed on airplanes with it, or do they make you check it?
That would actually be an advantage as you would not be nearly as
likely to be annoyed by being charged for a pillow or a trip to the
can.

Heck, I was just gonna squirt the Loctite right in there without even
taking the nut off. (Unless the instructions say otherwise and my wife
is helping/watching.) I always drop those little buggers on the carpet
or lawn and can never find them.

I you plan on the above then you want to use a wicking Loctite.
It uses capillary action to enter the joint.

http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Thread.../dp/B0002KKTRM

On Aug 27, 9:01*am, "EXT" wrote:
"Square Peg" wrote in message

...





On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 22:31:56 -0500, AZ Nomad
wrote:

On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 22:01:26 -0500, Dan Dangerous wrote:
Square Peg wrote:
I have several of Magnivision Titanium reading glasses. They are by
far the best I've tried, and I've tried just about every brand there
is.

http://www.magnivision.com/collection.cfm?catid=8

There is just one little problem. The nose piece and the side pieces
are attached to the lenses with tiny bolts with a tiny nut on the
inside. Over time (few months), these work loose. If I catch them soon
enough, I can tighten them and they will stay put for another few
months. If I am too slow, the glasses fall apart.

The ones for the nose piece are much more likely to loosen, probably
because they get wiggled more.

I have tried superglue, but it really doesn't hold.

Can anyone recommend a way to secure these nuts? If it is permament,
so much the better. I don't know why they don't use rivets. I will
never want to loosen these nuts.

Find someone with a soldering iron and have them solder it, it last
forever. Take a small piece of wire that isn't quite big enough for
the hole where the screw goes, put it in there and drip solder into
the hole. Radio Shack has a low wattage soldering iron that would
probably work, but, I bought a 100 watt SI at Hobby Lobby for around
$10.00, it's the Hobby Lobby brand, it has enough heat to solder
anything.

My old glasses for work are almost totally held together by solder.

use locktight.

The only thing superglue works on is human skin.

Funny. It sure does work on skin. I actually think it has some sort of
magnetic attraction and can jump several inches to reach the skin. ;-)

That is why it is used as a surgical glue for doctors and veterinarians.

Not to mention mechanics and handymen (I have to admit to having super
glued my knuckles back together a few times.) A lot handier than a
band-aid, and impervious to gear oil as well.

nate

Square Peg wrote:

Can anyone recommend a way to secure these nuts? If it is permament,
so much the better. I don't know why they don't use rivets. I will
never want to loosen these nuts.


Green LockTite. It is permanent (like the red) but it also is
penetrating. So you can use apply it after assembling -- probably with
a toothpick in this case.

Bob

AZ Nomad wrote:

On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 10:23:29 -0500, Gary H wrote:

On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 22:31:56 -0500, AZ Nomad
wrote:


[snip]


The only thing superglue works on is human skin.


It works better on plastic. It'll come off the skin in a couple of
days (with a layer or 2 of skin).


On plastic, it'll come apart when the object is bumped. It's really
brittle.

Acetone works a lot better for bonding plastic. It temporarily melts the
plastic and when it dries, you're left with a monolythic plastic structure.


Only on certain plastics however. There are LOTS of plastics that won't
work on.

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 17:17:35 -0400, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
AZ Nomad wrote:

On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 10:23:29 -0500, Gary H wrote:

On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 22:31:56 -0500, AZ Nomad
wrote:


[snip]


The only thing superglue works on is human skin.


It works better on plastic. It'll come off the skin in a couple of
days (with a layer or 2 of skin).


On plastic, it'll come apart when the object is bumped. It's really
brittle.

Acetone works a lot better for bonding plastic. It temporarily melts the
plastic and when it dries, you're left with a monolythic plastic structure.


Only on certain plastics however. There are LOTS of plastics that won't
work on.

Lots being less than 5%.

AZ Nomad wrote:
....

Lots being less than 5%.

Think you left the trailing zero off that estimate...

--

On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 15:36:07 -0500, zxcvbob
wrote:


Square Peg wrote:

Can anyone recommend a way to secure these nuts? If it is permament,
so much the better. I don't know why they don't use rivets. I will
never want to loosen these nuts.


Green LockTite. It is permanent (like the red) but it also is
penetrating. So you can use apply it after assembling -- probably with
a toothpick in this case.

That's 2 recommendations for green and one for blue. The Loctite site
has this information about the three colors of "threadlockers": green,
red, and blue:

Green: For smaller fasteners. Doesn't say anything about being
penetrating or permanent.
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/produ...id=48&plid=695

Red: For larger fasteners. Seems to be more permanent. Requires heat
and hand tools to remove.
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/produ...id=48&plid=154

Blue: For medium-size fasteners. Appears to be less permanent.
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/produ...id=48&plid=153

None of them say anything about being penetrating.

The green seems harder to find. So far, one hardware store and one
auto-supply store had only the red and the blue. I finally found it at
a Napa store, but it's 10 miles away.



So, I went to Amazon. They have all three and better descriptions:

Green:
http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Thread...7198 6&sr=8-1

Loctite 290 Green threadlocker is a low viscosity threadlocking liquid
that wicks along the threadsof pre-assembled fasteners to secure them
in place. Since it is applied after assembly preventive maintenance
procedures are simplified. Ideal for fasteners ranging from #2 to 1/2"
(2.2 to 12mm) in size. Localized heating and hand tools needed for
disassembly. Suggested applications: Bolts on alternators air
conditioning belts and distributor clamps carburetor adjustment screws
and hairline cracks.

It's bit unsettling that the photo is of a *red* package ;-)

Red:
http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Thread...72297&sr= 8-1

Loctite 272 Red withstands temperatures to 450 Degrees F. This
high-temp/High-strength threadlocker is formulated for heavy-duty
applications. Prevents bolts up to 1-1/2" (36mm) from loosening due to
shock severe vibration and heatstress. An exclusive formulation for
newer engines and high performance applications where extreme
temperature resistance is required. removable with heat and hand
tools. Suggested applications: Camshaft sprocket bolts crankshaft
bolts idler bearings press fit filler tubes transmission input and
output shaft threads ring gear and shock bolts.

Blue:
http://www.amazon.com/Henkel-Loctite...9872406&sr=8-1

Loctite Threadlocker Blue 242 locks threaded metal fasteners against
loosening from machine vibration. It prevents leaks and rusting of
metal threads for 1/4- to 3/4-inch (6 mm to 20 mm) nuts and bolts.
Metal parts can be removed with hand tools for easy disassembly if
necessary. Sets in 20 minutes and cures in 24 hours. Especially useful
for small motors, mowers and many types of power equipment.


It looks like green is the one for this job. Thanks.

On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 16:10:19 -0400, wrote:


Heck, I was just gonna squirt the Loctite right in there without even
taking the nut off. (Unless the instructions say otherwise and my wife
is helping/watching.) I always drop those little buggers on the carpet
or lawn and can never find them.

I you plan on the above then you want to use a wicking Loctite.
It uses capillary action to enter the joint.

http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Thread.../dp/B0002KKTRM

Thanks. The green is hard to find at hardware stores and not even all
auto supply stores have it. Amazon to the rescue.

On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 01:18:49 -0500, Uncle Monster
wrote:

Square Peg wrote:
I have several of Magnivision Titanium reading glasses. They are by
far the best I've tried, and I've tried just about every brand there
is.

http://www.magnivision.com/collection.cfm?catid=8

There is just one little problem. The nose piece and the side pieces
are attached to the lenses with tiny bolts with a tiny nut on the
inside. Over time (few months), these work loose. If I catch them soon
enough, I can tighten them and they will stay put for another few
months. If I am too slow, the glasses fall apart.

The ones for the nose piece are much more likely to loosen, probably
because they get wiggled more.

I have tried superglue, but it really doesn't hold.

Can anyone recommend a way to secure these nuts? If it is permament,
so much the better. I don't know why they don't use rivets. I will
never want to loosen these nuts.

Careful use of an automatic center punch
could stake the ends of the screws as
they come out of the nuts expanding them
enough to keep them tight. You may be able
to find a small automatic center punch at
your local Lowe's Depot store. After you
obtain one, you may ask yourself "Why did
I never get one of these incredibly useful
gadgets before now?" I have several different
sizes of the things.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automatic_center_punch

http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-.../dp/B00004T7RJ

Amazon has several others:

http://www.amazon.com/Starrett-18A-A...9872873&sr=8-3

http://www.amazon.com/Starrett-18B-A...9872873&sr=8-1

http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-...9873150&sr=8-4

Are they all pretty much the same?

Do I need a small one and a larger one? As long as I am justifying
tools to the bean counter...

TD wrote:
Duct tape will do it.
OK, it'll look terrible, but it will stick.
A very tiny piece of duct tape:-))

Lou

Square Peg wrote:
On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 12:27:31 -0500, AZ Nomad
wrote:

On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 10:05:59 -0700, Square Peg wrote:
On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 09:53:54 -0700, Bennett Price
wrote:
Loctite is the solution. I've heard - but don't know - that it can eat
plastic. When I use it for plastic eye glasses I wrap the lenses in
saran wrap or scotch tape until the job is done.
Plastic wrap is a good idea. I plan to use just a tiny drop on a
toothpick or something and not get any on the lenses, but I never plan
to super-glue my fingers together, either.
getting any kind of adhesive on the lens would be bad.

ya think?



just use a dab of clear nail polish.... paul

On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 18:43:09 -0400, Paul Oman wrote:
Square Peg wrote:
On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 12:27:31 -0500, AZ Nomad
wrote:

On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 10:05:59 -0700, Square Peg wrote:
On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 09:53:54 -0700, Bennett Price
wrote:
Loctite is the solution. I've heard - but don't know - that it can eat
plastic. When I use it for plastic eye glasses I wrap the lenses in
saran wrap or scotch tape until the job is done.
Plastic wrap is a good idea. I plan to use just a tiny drop on a
toothpick or something and not get any on the lenses, but I never plan
to super-glue my fingers together, either.
getting any kind of adhesive on the lens would be bad.

ya think?



just use a dab of clear nail polish.... paul

Yeah. And watch that plastic lense disolve.

"aemeijers" wrote in message
...
Square Peg wrote:
I have several of Magnivision Titanium reading glasses. They are by
far the best I've tried, and I've tried just about every brand there
is.

http://www.magnivision.com/collection.cfm?catid=8

There is just one little problem. The nose piece and the side pieces
are attached to the lenses with tiny bolts with a tiny nut on the
inside. Over time (few months), these work loose. If I catch them soon
enough, I can tighten them and they will stay put for another few
months. If I am too slow, the glasses fall apart.

The ones for the nose piece are much more likely to loosen, probably
because they get wiggled more.

I have tried superglue, but it really doesn't hold.

Can anyone recommend a way to secure these nuts? If it is permament,
so much the better. I don't know why they don't use rivets. I will
never want to loosen these nuts.

Loctite? I understand they make several different flavors- the stuff for
an engine block probably isn't a good idea.
As to where to buy it, maybe a hobby shop where they sell RC cars and
planes and stuff? They use lots of itty-bitty bolts.

--
aem sends...

Green Loctite will "wick" into the threads then cure.

They don't search invited contractors? Neat. I wondered, I can just imagine
myself getting a call to govt office, and having to explain that I can't do
the job bare handed.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Uncle Monster" wrote in message
...

I keep the small one in my work shirt
pocket next to the little screwdrivers,
markers, thermometer, ball point pen,
etc. I had a service call at The U.S.
Attorney's office in downtown a while
back and had to explain to the security
guards that I had all manner of sharp
metallic objects on my person and in my
tool case. It was no problem because I
was there to make legal use of all my
sharp implements, including my rather
small brain. *snicker*

[8~{} Uncle Monster

On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 20:17:53 -0700, "Anthony Diodati" mrbreezeet1NO
wrote:


"Square Peg" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 15:36:07 -0500, zxcvbob
wrote:


Square Peg wrote:

Can anyone recommend a way to secure these nuts? If it is permament,
so much the better. I don't know why they don't use rivets. I will
never want to loosen these nuts.


Green LockTite. It is permanent (like the red) but it also is
penetrating. So you can use apply it after assembling -- probably with
a toothpick in this case.

That's 2 recommendations for green and one for blue. The Loctite site
has this information about the three colors of "threadlockers": green,
red, and blue:

Green: For smaller fasteners. Doesn't say anything about being
penetrating or permanent.
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/produ...id=48&plid=695

Red: For larger fasteners. Seems to be more permanent. Requires heat
and hand tools to remove.
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/produ...id=48&plid=154

Blue: For medium-size fasteners. Appears to be less permanent.
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/produ...id=48&plid=153

None of them say anything about being penetrating.

The green seems harder to find. So far, one hardware store and one
auto-supply store had only the red and the blue. I finally found it at
a Napa store, but it's 10 miles away.



So, I went to Amazon. They have all three and better descriptions:

Green:
http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Thread...7198 6&sr=8-1

Loctite 290 Green threadlocker is a low viscosity threadlocking liquid
that wicks along the threadsof pre-assembled fasteners to secure them
in place. Since it is applied after assembly preventive maintenance
procedures are simplified. Ideal for fasteners ranging from #2 to 1/2"
(2.2 to 12mm) in size. Localized heating and hand tools needed for
disassembly. Suggested applications: Bolts on alternators air
conditioning belts and distributor clamps carburetor adjustment screws
and hairline cracks.

It's bit unsettling that the photo is of a *red* package ;-)

Red:
http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Thread...72297&sr= 8-1

Loctite 272 Red withstands temperatures to 450 Degrees F. This
high-temp/High-strength threadlocker is formulated for heavy-duty
applications. Prevents bolts up to 1-1/2" (36mm) from loosening due to
shock severe vibration and heatstress. An exclusive formulation for
newer engines and high performance applications where extreme
temperature resistance is required. removable with heat and hand
tools. Suggested applications: Camshaft sprocket bolts crankshaft
bolts idler bearings press fit filler tubes transmission input and
output shaft threads ring gear and shock bolts.

Blue:
http://www.amazon.com/Henkel-Loctite...9872406&sr=8-1

Loctite Threadlocker Blue 242 locks threaded metal fasteners against
loosening from machine vibration. It prevents leaks and rusting of
metal threads for 1/4- to 3/4-inch (6 mm to 20 mm) nuts and bolts.
Metal parts can be removed with hand tools for easy disassembly if
necessary. Sets in 20 minutes and cures in 24 hours. Especially useful
for small motors, mowers and many types of power equipment.


It looks like green is the one for this job. Thanks.


That's 2 recommendations for green and one for blue. The Loctite site
has this information about the three colors of "threadlockers": green,
red, and blue:


OK so change mine to the green.
The blue should still work though, just may need to loosen the screw a bit,
apply the blue locktite, then tighten.
(this has been an interesting thread,,,,,,)
Tony

I've ordered the green from Amazon. I just arrived at the office to
find another pair of glasses with loose hinges. When it arrives, I'll
give it a test.

"Square Peg" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 15:36:07 -0500, zxcvbob
wrote:


Square Peg wrote:

Can anyone recommend a way to secure these nuts? If it is permament,
so much the better. I don't know why they don't use rivets. I will
never want to loosen these nuts.


Green LockTite. It is permanent (like the red) but it also is
penetrating. So you can use apply it after assembling -- probably with
a toothpick in this case.

That's 2 recommendations for green and one for blue. The Loctite site
has this information about the three colors of "threadlockers": green,
red, and blue:

Green: For smaller fasteners. Doesn't say anything about being
penetrating or permanent.
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/produ...id=48&plid=695

Red: For larger fasteners. Seems to be more permanent. Requires heat
and hand tools to remove.
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/produ...id=48&plid=154

Blue: For medium-size fasteners. Appears to be less permanent.
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/produ...id=48&plid=153

None of them say anything about being penetrating.

The green seems harder to find. So far, one hardware store and one
auto-supply store had only the red and the blue. I finally found it at
a Napa store, but it's 10 miles away.



So, I went to Amazon. They have all three and better descriptions:

Green:
http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Thread...7198 6&sr=8-1

Loctite 290 Green threadlocker is a low viscosity threadlocking liquid
that wicks along the threadsof pre-assembled fasteners to secure them
in place. Since it is applied after assembly preventive maintenance
procedures are simplified. Ideal for fasteners ranging from #2 to 1/2"
(2.2 to 12mm) in size. Localized heating and hand tools needed for
disassembly. Suggested applications: Bolts on alternators air
conditioning belts and distributor clamps carburetor adjustment screws
and hairline cracks.

It's bit unsettling that the photo is of a *red* package ;-)

Red:
http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Thread...72297&sr= 8-1

Loctite 272 Red withstands temperatures to 450 Degrees F. This
high-temp/High-strength threadlocker is formulated for heavy-duty
applications. Prevents bolts up to 1-1/2" (36mm) from loosening due to
shock severe vibration and heatstress. An exclusive formulation for
newer engines and high performance applications where extreme
temperature resistance is required. removable with heat and hand
tools. Suggested applications: Camshaft sprocket bolts crankshaft
bolts idler bearings press fit filler tubes transmission input and
output shaft threads ring gear and shock bolts.

Blue:
http://www.amazon.com/Henkel-Loctite...9872406&sr=8-1

Loctite Threadlocker Blue 242 locks threaded metal fasteners against
loosening from machine vibration. It prevents leaks and rusting of
metal threads for 1/4- to 3/4-inch (6 mm to 20 mm) nuts and bolts.
Metal parts can be removed with hand tools for easy disassembly if
necessary. Sets in 20 minutes and cures in 24 hours. Especially useful
for small motors, mowers and many types of power equipment.


It looks like green is the one for this job. Thanks.


That's 2 recommendations for green and one for blue. The Loctite site
has this information about the three colors of "threadlockers": green,
red, and blue:


OK so change mine to the green.
The blue should still work though, just may need to loosen the screw a bit,
apply the blue locktite, then tighten.
(this has been an interesting thread,,,,,,)
Tony

SteveB wrote:
Take them where you bought them. They may prefer some way, i.e. Loctite,
SuperGlue, clear nail polish.

They look like the three pair I have. If his source was like mine,
a drugstore, the staff likely won't be of much help. Green Loctite
did the job for me. Just a tiny bit applied with a broomstraw to the
threads emerging from the nuts. Don't overdo it.

There may be some reason that one of the
things suggested here might not work well, like discoloring the metal,
eating up any plastic it touches, etc. Something that one would not
normally think of, but in this application would be critical or detrimental
enough not to be a consideration. If it were just a nut and bolt, there
could be lots of suggestions that would probably work. Since this is a tiny
item, with unknown coatings, and unknown properties, if it were me, I'd take
it to where I bought it. They may even have a tube of GlassGoo or something
that is made specifically for that.

BTW, I have three pairs of titanium glasses, and there's nothing better.
But I do have to watch those little screws.

Steve

"Square Peg" wrote in message
...
I have several of Magnivision Titanium reading glasses. They are by
far the best I've tried, and I've tried just about every brand there
is.

http://www.magnivision.com/collection.cfm?catid=8

There is just one little problem. The nose piece and the side pieces
are attached to the lenses with tiny bolts with a tiny nut on the
inside. Over time (few months), these work loose. If I catch them soon
enough, I can tighten them and they will stay put for another few
months. If I am too slow, the glasses fall apart.

The ones for the nose piece are much more likely to loosen, probably
because they get wiggled more.

I have tried superglue, but it really doesn't hold.

Can anyone recommend a way to secure these nuts? If it is permament,
so much the better. I don't know why they don't use rivets. I will
never want to loosen these nuts.


Take them where you bought them. They may prefer some way, i.e. Loctite,
SuperGlue, clear nail polish. There may be some reason that one of the
things suggested here might not work well, like discoloring the metal,
eating up any plastic it touches, etc. Something that one would not
normally think of, but in this application would be critical or detrimental
enough not to be a consideration. If it were just a nut and bolt, there
could be lots of suggestions that would probably work. Since this is a tiny
item, with unknown coatings, and unknown properties, if it were me, I'd take
it to where I bought it. They may even have a tube of GlassGoo or something
that is made specifically for that.

BTW, I have three pairs of titanium glasses, and there's nothing better.
But I do have to watch those little screws.

Steve

"SteveBell" wrote in message
...
Square Peg wrote:

On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 02:58:09 +0000 (UTC), "SteveBell"
wrote:

Square Peg wrote:

I have several of Magnivision Titanium reading glasses. They are by
far the best I've tried, and I've tried just about every brand
there is.

http://www.magnivision.com/collection.cfm?catid=8

There is just one little problem. The nose piece and the side
pieces are attached to the lenses with tiny bolts with a tiny nut
on the inside. Over time (few months), these work loose. If I
catch them soon enough, I can tighten them and they will stay put
for another few months. If I am too slow, the glasses fall apart.

The ones for the nose piece are much more likely to loosen,
probably because they get wiggled more.

I have tried superglue, but it really doesn't hold.

Can anyone recommend a way to secure these nuts? If it is
permament, so much the better. I don't know why they don't use
rivets. I will never want to loosen these nuts.

Go back to your eye doctor. They'll tighten up the frames, then use
a special pair of pliers to squeeze the screw. The pliers have a
cone-shaped protrusion on one jaw that spreads the end of the screw.

You'll get a free cleaning and adjustment, if your doctor is any
good.

These are $20 reading glasses from the drug store.

Maybe I need a pair of those pliers. Do you know what they are called.
A search for "optical pliers" turned up a lot of choices, but not what
you describe.

In that case, I would get thee to thy workshop and judiciously apply a
center punch.

--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
Arlington, TX

If you could center punch a screw that small, you could circumcise a gnat!

Steve

On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 21:28:41 -0800, "SteveB" toquerville@zionvistas
wrote:


"SteveBell" wrote in message
...
Square Peg wrote:

On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 02:58:09 +0000 (UTC), "SteveBell"
wrote:

Square Peg wrote:

I have several of Magnivision Titanium reading glasses. They are by
far the best I've tried, and I've tried just about every brand
there is.

http://www.magnivision.com/collection.cfm?catid=8

There is just one little problem. The nose piece and the side
pieces are attached to the lenses with tiny bolts with a tiny nut
on the inside. Over time (few months), these work loose. If I
catch them soon enough, I can tighten them and they will stay put
for another few months. If I am too slow, the glasses fall apart.

The ones for the nose piece are much more likely to loosen,
probably because they get wiggled more.

I have tried superglue, but it really doesn't hold.

Can anyone recommend a way to secure these nuts? If it is
permament, so much the better. I don't know why they don't use
rivets. I will never want to loosen these nuts.

Go back to your eye doctor. They'll tighten up the frames, then use
a special pair of pliers to squeeze the screw. The pliers have a
cone-shaped protrusion on one jaw that spreads the end of the screw.

You'll get a free cleaning and adjustment, if your doctor is any
good.

These are $20 reading glasses from the drug store.

Maybe I need a pair of those pliers. Do you know what they are called.
A search for "optical pliers" turned up a lot of choices, but not what
you describe.

In that case, I would get thee to thy workshop and judiciously apply a
center punch.

--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
Arlington, TX

If you could center punch a screw that small, you could circumcise a gnat!

I plan to try Loctite first. If that fails, the center punch. If that
works, I'll go look for a gnat. You want to help hold 'im still?

On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 21:27:17 -0800, "SteveB" toquerville@zionvistas
wrote:


"Square Peg" wrote in message
.. .
I have several of Magnivision Titanium reading glasses. They are by
far the best I've tried, and I've tried just about every brand there
is.

http://www.magnivision.com/collection.cfm?catid=8

There is just one little problem. The nose piece and the side pieces
are attached to the lenses with tiny bolts with a tiny nut on the
inside. Over time (few months), these work loose. If I catch them soon
enough, I can tighten them and they will stay put for another few
months. If I am too slow, the glasses fall apart.

The ones for the nose piece are much more likely to loosen, probably
because they get wiggled more.

I have tried superglue, but it really doesn't hold.

Can anyone recommend a way to secure these nuts? If it is permament,
so much the better. I don't know why they don't use rivets. I will
never want to loosen these nuts.


Take them where you bought them. They may prefer some way, i.e. Loctite,
SuperGlue, clear nail polish. There may be some reason that one of the
things suggested here might not work well, like discoloring the metal,
eating up any plastic it touches, etc. Something that one would not
normally think of, but in this application would be critical or detrimental
enough not to be a consideration. If it were just a nut and bolt, there
could be lots of suggestions that would probably work. Since this is a tiny
item, with unknown coatings, and unknown properties, if it were me, I'd take
it to where I bought it. They may even have a tube of GlassGoo or something
that is made specifically for that.

You think I'll get more than a blank stare at Long's Drug Store?

In article ,
Square Peg wrote:

On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 09:03:15 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article ,
Square Peg wrote:

On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 22:08:57 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:


Use any small pair of pliers to judiciously gall the threads of the
screw just enough so that there's some increased friction with the
threads of the nut. You don't need no stinking fancy optometrist pliers.

I tried that without success. The bolt doesn't protrude through the
nut enough to grab and I was not able to squash the nut. Steve's
center punch idea might work.

Uh, *remove* the screw first, squash threads, then reinstall.

Oh, I get it. ;-)

I guess the plan would be to leave a few threads at the end intact to
allow the nut to get a foothold.

The problem will be getting the nut to plow thru the mangled threads.
The other end of the bolt is a smooth round brad-like head and it fits
into a wire loop. There is nothing like a hex bolt head to grab. I had
a bit of trouble getting the nut tight enough with clean threads as
the bolt wold also turn.

I'm going to give loctite a try first, then on to more draconian
measures.

Thanks

All right then. Are the eyeglass frames plastic? I destroyed about
$10,000 worth of freshly minted medical devices a few years back, with
LocTite. It isn't compatible with thermoplastics. Eats away at it over
the course of several days, and the plastic more or less disintegrates.

"Anthony Diodati" mrbreezeet1NO wrote in message
...
(this has been an interesting thread,,,,,,)

GROAN

All right then. Are the eyeglass frames plastic? I destroyed about
$10,000 worth of freshly minted medical devices a few years back, with
LocTite. It isn't compatible with thermoplastics. Eats away at it over
the course of several days, and the plastic more or less disintegrates.

The containers for Loctite are thermoplastic.

A well placed drop of clear fingernail polish

In article , Square Peg wrote:
[snip over-long descriptions of differences between various Loctite products]

Good Lord, man! IT DOESN'T MATTER. It's a teeny, tiny screw. ANY OF THE THREE
will work just fine.

On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 23:35:53 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article ,
Square Peg wrote:

On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 09:03:15 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article ,
Square Peg wrote:

On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 22:08:57 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:


Use any small pair of pliers to judiciously gall the threads of the
screw just enough so that there's some increased friction with the
threads of the nut. You don't need no stinking fancy optometrist pliers.

I tried that without success. The bolt doesn't protrude through the
nut enough to grab and I was not able to squash the nut. Steve's
center punch idea might work.

Uh, *remove* the screw first, squash threads, then reinstall.

Oh, I get it. ;-)

I guess the plan would be to leave a few threads at the end intact to
allow the nut to get a foothold.

The problem will be getting the nut to plow thru the mangled threads.
The other end of the bolt is a smooth round brad-like head and it fits
into a wire loop. There is nothing like a hex bolt head to grab. I had
a bit of trouble getting the nut tight enough with clean threads as
the bolt wold also turn.

I'm going to give loctite a try first, then on to more draconian
measures.

Thanks

All right then. Are the eyeglass frames plastic?

Uh, they are *titanium* reading glasses, so I think the frames are
made of, er, ... titanium?

I destroyed about
$10,000 worth of freshly minted medical devices a few years back, with
LocTite. It isn't compatible with thermoplastics. Eats away at it over
the course of several days, and the plastic more or less disintegrates.

I wasn't planning to dip the glasses in a tub of Loctite -- just put a
tiny drop (as tiny as possible) on the end of each bolt.

On Thu, 28 Aug 2008 03:55:53 -0400, wrote:


All right then. Are the eyeglass frames plastic? I destroyed about
$10,000 worth of freshly minted medical devices a few years back, with
LocTite. It isn't compatible with thermoplastics. Eats away at it over
the course of several days, and the plastic more or less disintegrates.

The containers for Loctite are thermoplastic.

;-)

On Thu, 28 Aug 2008 11:08:22 GMT, (Doug Miller)
wrote:

In article , Square Peg wrote:
[snip over-long descriptions of differences between various Loctite products]

Good Lord, man! IT DOESN'T MATTER. It's a teeny, tiny screw. ANY OF THE THREE
will work just fine.

Good Lord, man! IF THIS ANNOYS YOU, DON'T READ IT. This particular
project doesn't amount to a hill of beans. But I have LEARNED A LOT
ABOUT THE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN LOCTITE PRODUCT, which may be useful on
other projects. Does your usenet reader allow you to ignore threads?

In article ,
wrote:

All right then. Are the eyeglass frames plastic? I destroyed about
$10,000 worth of freshly minted medical devices a few years back, with
LocTite. It isn't compatible with thermoplastics. Eats away at it over
the course of several days, and the plastic more or less disintegrates.

The containers for Loctite are thermoplastic.

I don't know what type of plastic the containers are made of. I do know
my own experience, and the resultant follow up that was done, including
a consultation with Loctite.

I also know that the product literature includes this statement:

"This product is not normally recommended for use on plastics
(particularly thermoplastic materials where stress cracking of
the plastic could result). Users are recommended to confirm
compatibility of the product with such substrates."

"Square Peg" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 28 Aug 2008 11:08:22 GMT, (Doug Miller)
wrote:

In article , Square Peg
wrote:
[snip over-long descriptions of differences between various Loctite
products]

Good Lord, man! IT DOESN'T MATTER. It's a teeny, tiny screw. ANY OF THE
THREE
will work just fine.

Good Lord, man! IF THIS ANNOYS YOU, DON'T READ IT. This particular
project doesn't amount to a hill of beans. But I have LEARNED A LOT
ABOUT THE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN LOCTITE PRODUCT, which may be useful on
other projects. Does your usenet reader allow you to ignore threads?

I liked the thread too.......
Tony