I have some painting to do. Interior ceilings / walls and exterior.
Exterior is about 1/4 wood and 3/4 stucco.

I am contemplating buying an airless sprayer. The Titan XT 440 was
recommended to me as a sprayer that can handle elastomerics. It's
probably a couple hundred dollars more than other models I'd consider,
but if it's really going to do the job I'd consider it. Do these high-
end consumer/low-end contractor models work well?

Do you need to backroll stucco?

Is the GPM rating more or less a hard number? I know you can reduce
pressure, but I assume there is a pressure range based on tip size and
paint viscosity/solid content that provides an acceptable spray
pattern. Does that mean that if I have a room that's going to take
2 gallons of paint with the XT440 (at .43GPM) I'll be done spraying in
under 5 minutes assuming continuous flow? (And hours of prep and an
hour to clean the sprayer) It seems like I'll be running with the
gun.

How thick of a plastic do I need to use to mask things? Too thin and
you blow through it. Too thick and it's heavy / more costly.

Are the paint mfg tip size ratings pretty much correct? Also, if they
recommend a .018 tip and your choices are .017 and .019, which do you
choose?

How long does it take for the overspray to settle and you can take the
masking down?

I'm sure I have a thousand other questions, but I'd rather not waste
everyones time with them.

Thanks,
Dick

On Jul 31, 11:12*am, Kathleen wrote:
I have some painting to do. *Interior ceilings / walls and exterior.
Exterior is about 1/4 wood and 3/4 stucco.

I am contemplating buying an airless sprayer. * The Titan XT 440 was
recommended to me as a sprayer that can handle elastomerics. *It's
probably a couple hundred dollars more than other models I'd consider,
but if it's really going to do the job I'd consider it. *Do these high-
end consumer/low-end contractor models work well?

Do you need to backroll stucco?

Is the GPM rating more or less a hard number? *I know you can reduce
pressure, but I assume there is a pressure range based on tip size and
paint viscosity/solid content that provides an acceptable spray
pattern. * *Does that mean that if I have a room that's going to take
2 gallons of paint with the XT440 (at .43GPM) I'll be done spraying in
under 5 minutes assuming continuous flow? *(And hours of prep and an
hour to clean the sprayer) *It seems like I'll be running with the
gun.

How thick of a plastic do I need to use to mask things? *Too thin and
you blow through it. *Too thick and it's heavy / more costly.

Are the paint mfg tip size ratings pretty much correct? *Also, if they
recommend a .018 tip and your choices are .017 and .019, which do you
choose?

How long does it take for the overspray to settle and you can take the
masking down?

I'm sure I have a thousand other questions, but I'd rather not waste
everyones time with them.

Thanks,
Dick

I have a Titan 440 that is 20 years old with about 500 gallons through
it, it still is fine and no rebuild yet. Interior spray? how many
rooms, whats the floor, Different tips for different products 17 oil,
18-19 latex. Have you sprayed before

On Jul 31, 11:12*am, Kathleen wrote:
I have some painting to do. *Interior ceilings / walls and exterior.
Exterior is about 1/4 wood and 3/4 stucco.

I am contemplating buying an airless sprayer. * The Titan XT 440 was
recommended to me as a sprayer that can handle elastomerics. *It's
probably a couple hundred dollars more than other models I'd consider,
but if it's really going to do the job I'd consider it. *Do these high-
end consumer/low-end contractor models work well?

Do you need to backroll stucco?

Is the GPM rating more or less a hard number? *I know you can reduce
pressure, but I assume there is a pressure range based on tip size and
paint viscosity/solid content that provides an acceptable spray
pattern. * *Does that mean that if I have a room that's going to take
2 gallons of paint with the XT440 (at .43GPM) I'll be done spraying in
under 5 minutes assuming continuous flow? *(And hours of prep and an
hour to clean the sprayer) *It seems like I'll be running with the
gun.

How thick of a plastic do I need to use to mask things? *Too thin and
you blow through it. *Too thick and it's heavy / more costly.

Are the paint mfg tip size ratings pretty much correct? *Also, if they
recommend a .018 tip and your choices are .017 and .019, which do you
choose?

How long does it take for the overspray to settle and you can take the
masking down?

I'm sure I have a thousand other questions, but I'd rather not waste
everyones time with them.

Thanks,
Dick

Titan is high end commercial.

Kathleen wrote:
I have some painting to do. Interior ceilings / walls and exterior.
Exterior is about 1/4 wood and 3/4 stucco.

I am contemplating buying an airless sprayer. The Titan XT 440 was
recommended to me as a sprayer that can handle elastomerics.

Consider Graco mid and upscale models. Widely sold and well respected,
parts and service everywhere. If you are working with a real paint
store, consider renting a couple of different machines out for a
weekend spin each to see which one is your style. Some are slower than
others, but more adjustable for different materials. And some big
honkers really only should be used on production lines. Make a careful
choice and good luck.

Joe

Kathleen wrote:
I have some painting to do. Interior ceilings / walls and exterior.
Exterior is about 1/4 wood and 3/4 stucco.

I am contemplating buying an airless sprayer. The Titan XT 440 was
recommended to me as a sprayer that can handle elastomerics. It's
probably a couple hundred dollars more than other models I'd consider,
but if it's really going to do the job I'd consider it. Do these
high- end consumer/low-end contractor models work well?

I only have one experience with them but will tell you a bit about that...

I bought one - don't recall the brand but low end - when I built my house to
paint the entire exterior (stucco) and interior (heavy orange peel). The
interior of the house has 5400 sq.ft., ceilings vary from 8' - 12'. There
are about 4,000 sq.ft. of exterior wall not subtracting windows/doors of
which there are many.

I gave up on spraying the exterior...the time to mask would have been much
greater than cutting in edges with a brush and then rolling. Had I sprayed,
I expect that back rolling would have been necessary.

Fortunately, the interior was already masked from when the walls were shot
with mud for texture. The plastic the texture guys used was not a thin film
but it wasn't heavy like visqueen either. Regardless, I can't see a sprayer
blowing through a thin film. Not unless it was really stretched tight and
you put the nozzle directly against it.

There is a *LOT* of overspray! Spray a walk in closet with white paint and
it is like being lost in a blizzard; however, it takes little time for the
overspray to dry. Maybe 20 minutes(?) assuming it isn't real thick and the
humidity isn't high.

Even though it took me only three days to paint the entire interior, walls
and ceilings, with a primer and at least one coat of finish paint I would
*never* spray the interior of a house unless it is bare - no
rugs/carpets...no furniture...no trim...no cabinets...no doors...no electric
outlet covers - because of the time to cover and mask.

Because of the wall texture, I found my best results to be by making one
pass angled a bit to one side and down followed by a second pass angled to
the other side and up.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"dadiOH" wrote in message
.. .
Kathleen wrote:
I have some painting to do. Interior ceilings / walls and exterior.
Exterior is about 1/4 wood and 3/4 stucco.

I am contemplating buying an airless sprayer. The Titan XT 440 was
recommended to me as a sprayer that can handle elastomerics. It's
probably a couple hundred dollars more than other models I'd consider,
but if it's really going to do the job I'd consider it. Do these
high- end consumer/low-end contractor models work well?

I only have one experience with them but will tell you a bit about that...

I bought one - don't recall the brand but low end - when I built my house
to paint the entire exterior (stucco) and interior (heavy orange peel).
The interior of the house has 5400 sq.ft., ceilings vary from 8' - 12'.
There are about 4,000 sq.ft. of exterior wall not subtracting
windows/doors of which there are many.

I gave up on spraying the exterior...the time to mask would have been much
greater than cutting in edges with a brush and then rolling. Had I
sprayed, I expect that back rolling would have been necessary.

Fortunately, the interior was already masked from when the walls were shot
with mud for texture. The plastic the texture guys used was not a thin
film but it wasn't heavy like visqueen either. Regardless, I can't see a
sprayer blowing through a thin film. Not unless it was really stretched
tight and you put the nozzle directly against it.

There is a *LOT* of overspray! Spray a walk in closet with white paint
and it is like being lost in a blizzard; however, it takes little time for
the overspray to dry. Maybe 20 minutes(?) assuming it isn't real thick
and the humidity isn't high.

Even though it took me only three days to paint the entire interior, walls
and ceilings, with a primer and at least one coat of finish paint I would
*never* spray the interior of a house unless it is bare - no
rugs/carpets...no furniture...no trim...no cabinets...no doors...no
electric outlet covers - because of the time to cover and mask.

Because of the wall texture, I found my best results to be by making one
pass angled a bit to one side and down followed by a second pass angled to
the other side and up.


--

dadiOH

My experience and advice are the same. Unless it's new construction, or you
can take EVERYTHING OUT of the place, the overspray will be on everything.
One thing where an airless did a better than expected job for me was
spraying over popcorn. We did it on rentals, and it sure is easier, and
quicker than scraping the popcorn, even though that's no big job. It looks
great, too, and hopefully, we'll sell them before the paint needs repainting
or scraping eventually.

Steve

Thanks for all the responses.

dadiOH commented that the overspray dried after about 20 minutes. Is
it safe to take the masking down at that point or should you wait
considerably longer for all the paint to settle?

I appreciate all the advice.

-Dick

Kathleen wrote:
Thanks for all the responses.

dadiOH commented that the overspray dried after about 20 minutes. Is
it safe to take the masking down at that point or should you wait
considerably longer for all the paint to settle?

Opinion...

The overspray doesn't float around in the air like dust motes. It is heavy
and settles rapidly. If there *were* itsy-bitsy floaters they would dry
almost immediately so I'd think 20 minutes would be sufficient for overspray
to have dried or set up even if you were using oil paint.

However, that doesn't mean what you sprayed is dry. You can pull the tape
as soon as the paint is dry enough not to run. However, with some paints,
taking off the tape while the dried film is thin and tender results in the
paint edge tearing; OTOH, waiting until the paint is totally dry can result
in edge chipping. Just have to try it and see...

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"dadiOH" wrote in message
...
Kathleen wrote:
Thanks for all the responses.

dadiOH commented that the overspray dried after about 20 minutes. Is
it safe to take the masking down at that point or should you wait
considerably longer for all the paint to settle?


I have found out that the longer you leave the tape on, the more comes off
with the tape. Even the undercoat. I pull tape shortly after spraying
while the paint is still wet. Otherwise, the tape pulls off strips of the
new paint.

steve