I have a Carrier AC unit from about 1997. Being that it is 95 degrees here
in the mid-Atlantic area, the unit seems to struggle to keep the house cool.
It used to work better, even in hot weather like this.

Does this indicate that it has lost coolant? Any idea of what I should pay
to have it re-charged?

On Jul 19, 6:12*am, "Buck Turgidson" wrote:
I have a Carrier AC unit from about 1997. *Being that it is 95 degrees here
in the mid-Atlantic area, the unit seems to struggle to keep the house cool.
It used to work better, even in hot weather like this.

Does this indicate that it has lost coolant? *Any idea of what I should pay
to have it re-charged?

First check the basics. Make sure the filter is not dirty.
Is this a window unit or CAC system? If its a CAC system, is it used
in combination with the furnace ducts or seperate ducts?

First check the basics. Make sure the filter is not dirty.
Is this a window unit or CAC system? If its a CAC system, is it used
in combination with the furnace ducts or seperate ducts?

Filter (cheap blue fiberglass) is new. It is a CAC system sharing ducts
with the furnace.

It has operated better in the past. It just doesn't seem to be performing
now.

On Jul 19, 7:19*am, "Buck Turgidson" wrote:
First check the basics. Make sure the filter is not dirty.
Is this a window unit or CAC system? If its a CAC system, is it used
in combination with the furnace ducts or seperate ducts?

Filter (cheap blue fiberglass) is new. *It is a CAC system sharing ducts
with the furnace.

It has operated better in the past. *It just doesn't seem to be performing
now.

Check if the pipe at the air handler or at the compressor feels ice
cold and is sweating. If its not, its probably low on charge. If there
is a sight glass outside , you should see occasional bubbles flow by.
If its cloudy or foamy, you could be low.
If that checks out ok, make sure your supply and return ducts on the
lower floors are shut, and make sure the upper floor ones are open.
( maybe there is a damper someplace that has been shut) Cold air
sinks, so you want to push all of the air to the upstairs and let it
migrate down. On the same note, hot air rises, so you want only the
upper return duct open so it can pull all of the hot air out of the
house. A CAC system doesn't just dump cold air in a room, it removes
heat and humidity, and thats why the return air is important and works
properly.

On Jul 19, 5:12*am, "Buck Turgidson" wrote:
I have a Carrier AC unit from about 1997. *Being that it is 95 degrees here
in the mid-Atlantic area, the unit seems to struggle to keep the house cool.
It used to work better, even in hot weather like this.

Does this indicate that it has lost coolant? *Any idea of what I should pay
to have it re-charged?

Get it serviced and cleaned, the interior coil could be clogged and
freezing up, you may have to cut and access hole to get to the coil,
it could also be low on freon. Closing down vents could make things
worse by reducing airflow over the coil. Is the blower wheel dirty
that reduces airflow, has the outside unit been cleaned. A pro should
go over everything.

On Jul 19, 7:47*am, Mikepier wrote:
On Jul 19, 7:19*am, "Buck Turgidson" wrote:

First check the basics. Make sure the filter is not dirty.
Is this a window unit or CAC system? If its a CAC system, is it used
in combination with the furnace ducts or seperate ducts?

Filter (cheap blue fiberglass) is new. *It is a CAC system sharing ducts
with the furnace.

It has operated better in the past. *It just doesn't seem to be performing
now.

Check if the pipe at the air handler or at the compressor feels ice
cold and is sweating. If its not, its probably low on charge. If there
is a sight glass outside , you should see occasional bubbles flow by.
If its cloudy or foamy, you could be low.
If that checks out ok, make sure your supply and return ducts on the
lower floors are shut, and make sure the upper floor ones are open.

Say what? I don;t know of any heating/cooling pro's that would agree
with this. Sure, you can close a few registers on the lower level
during summer to help the balance. But all of them? Never seen
this done.



( maybe there is a damper someplace that has been shut) Cold air
sinks, so you want to push all of the air to the upstairs and let it
migrate down. On the same note, hot air rises, so you want only the
upper return duct open so it can pull all of the hot air out of the
house. A CAC system doesn't just dump cold air in a room, it removes
heat and humidity, and thats why the return air is important and works
properly.

And I'd suspect choking off the system by closing ALL the first floor
returns isn't a smart thing to do either.

"Buck Turgidson" wrote in message
...
I have a Carrier AC unit from about 1997. Being that it is 95 degrees here
in the mid-Atlantic area, the unit seems to struggle to keep the house
cool. It used to work better, even in hot weather like this.

Does this indicate that it has lost coolant? Any idea of what I should
pay to have it re-charged?


Possible, but there are other potential problems.

Dirty coils
Restricted air flow (dirty filter)
Reduced air flow, such as the blower not working properly.

The outside coil may not look dirty, but it can have a film of gunk that
requires a cleaner sprayed on and then rinsed.

You can figure about $100 minimum for service, more if a charge is needed.

Probably. About $456.34

Of course, there are several reasons why an AC might not work properly.
Since the unit is 11 years old, it really should be serviced by an AC
company.

You wouldn't drive your car for 11 years without an oil change?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Buck Turgidson" wrote in message
...
I have a Carrier AC unit from about 1997. Being that it is 95 degrees here
in the mid-Atlantic area, the unit seems to struggle to keep the house cool.
It used to work better, even in hot weather like this.

Does this indicate that it has lost coolant? Any idea of what I should pay
to have it re-charged?

Just freeze the coil if you do. Not good advice.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


wrote in message
...

And I'd suspect choking off the system by closing ALL the first floor
returns isn't a smart thing to do either.

Well since this might not a true dedicated CAC with the ducts probably
close to the floor, I was merely suggesting arranging the ducts in a
way that would produce optimal results. What I should have said was
adjust the ducts in a way that less cold air to the lower floors and
more to the top floors, same with the return.

"Mikepier" wrote in message
...
Well since this might not a true dedicated CAC with the ducts probably
close to the floor, I was merely suggesting arranging the ducts in a
way that would produce optimal results. What I should have said was
adjust the ducts in a way that less cold air to the lower floors and
more to the top floors, same with the return.

But, the unit perform OK in the past. Unless the ducts/registers were
changed that does not really solve the root cause of the problem.

Measure the temperature of the air coming from the AC. It should be about
20 degrees cooler than the air going into it. Example, house is 80, air
coming out of close duct to unit should be about 60. Good to do this both
for your AC and furnace when they are in good working order, assuming a
central air system.

"Buck Turgidson" wrote in message
...
I have a Carrier AC unit from about 1997. Being that it is 95 degrees here
in the mid-Atlantic area, the unit seems to struggle to keep the house
cool. It used to work better, even in hot weather like this.

Does this indicate that it has lost coolant? Any idea of what I should
pay to have it re-charged?

But, the unit perform OK in the past. Unless the ducts/registers were
changed that does not really solve the root cause of the problem.


That's the key point. Nothing has changed. Just a degradation of
performance.

"Buck Turgidson" wrote

I have a Carrier AC unit from about 1997. Being that it is 95 degrees here
in the mid-Atlantic area, the unit seems to struggle to keep the house
cool. It used to work better, even in hot weather like this.

Does this indicate that it has lost coolant? Any idea of what I should
pay to have it re-charged?

Buck, if you havent had any coolant added in 11 years, thats a likely spot.
Prices vary for that but apt to be in line with about 100$ plus whtever they
charge locally for a regular checkup and cleaning of the coils. Call it
probably 200-275$ total as a reasonable guess? May obviously be a bit more
or less where you are.

This assumes you've done the obvious and changed any filters etc (about 5$
for a new filter here and takes all of 3 mins to swap out the old one).

My area is a little cheaper and we got an estimate in spring, 175$.

Buck Turgidson wrote:

First check the basics. Make sure the filter is not dirty.
Is this a window unit or CAC system? If its a CAC system, is it used
in combination with the furnace ducts or seperate ducts?

Filter (cheap blue fiberglass) is new. It is a CAC system sharing ducts
with the furnace.

It has operated better in the past. It just doesn't seem to be performing
now.


It could be many things, including:

-- ductwork or plenum has sprung leaks (the most likely scenario, IMHO)
-- bushes/dirt/other obstructions affecting airflow through the outside
unit (also pretty likely)
-- compressor not running at top efficiency due to damage, need for
lubrication, weak run capacitor, etc. (i.e. service call stuff)
-- air mover fan not running at top efficiency due to similar factors
-- crud blocking the indoors coil
-- higher humidity than the times you remember when it operated better

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .

"CJT" wrote
Buck Turgidson wrote:

Filter (cheap blue fiberglass) is new. It is a CAC system sharing ducts
with the furnace.

It could be many things, including:

-- ductwork or plenum has sprung leaks (the most likely scenario, IMHO)

I think that is less likely. He'd have had heat problems too if so.
Definately possible, but wouldnt be my top pick. (Buck, check the attic and
see if it seems to be untaped, if so use the proper tape and retape it).

-- bushes/dirt/other obstructions affecting airflow through the outside
unit (also pretty likely)

Possible, but apt to be something he'd have seen already.

-- compressor not running at top efficiency due to damage, need for
lubrication, weak run capacitor, etc. (i.e. service call stuff)

Might be but he'd note an airflow drop right?

-- air mover fan not running at top efficiency due to similar factors

Same right? Airflow would be impacted.

-- crud blocking the indoors coil

Likely.

I still think if he's not had a bit of coolant added in 11 years, thats apt
to be it. Combined probably with dirty coils if not serviced in 11 years.

cshenk wrote:

snip

I still think if he's not had a bit of coolant added in 11 years, thats apt
to be it. Combined probably with dirty coils if not serviced in 11 years.


These closed systems should pretty much _never_ (even in 11 years)
require additional freon, IMHO.

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minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .

On Sat, 19 Jul 2008 12:43:18 -0500, CJT wrote:

cshenk wrote:

snip

I still think if he's not had a bit of coolant added in 11 years, thats apt
to be it. Combined probably with dirty coils if not serviced in 11 years.


These closed systems should pretty much _never_ (even in 11 years)
require additional freon, IMHO.

My condenser unit has gradually moved about 7 inches to the right in
the last 25 years. It's hanging off its slab a little bit. I think
if I tried to move it back where it started, I would likely crack the
copper pipes. Yes?

Otherwise, if you're right, I'm glad to hear it, because that is one
of the three things that could fail, I think, and you're saying it
won't.

My system is 29 years old with no freon ever added. Haven't used it
this year yet, but it worked fine August of last year.

On Sat, 19 Jul 2008 12:11:17 -0400, "cshenk" wrote:

"Buck Turgidson" wrote

I have a Carrier AC unit from about 1997. Being that it is 95 degrees here
in the mid-Atlantic area, the unit seems to struggle to keep the house
cool. It used to work better, even in hot weather like this.

Does this indicate that it has lost coolant? Any idea of what I should
pay to have it re-charged?

Buck, if you havent had any coolant added in 11 years, thats a likely spot.

You shouldn't tell an auto repair shop, or AC or furnace or most any
guy what is wrong with something, or what he needs to do, unless one
is certain.

If you tell him what to do and it doesn't help, he just did what you
told him and he's not responsible that it didn't help. Let him
figure out what he thinks is wrong, and why, and then the customer can
decide what to do.

Like I said, I don't use my AC much but it's 29 years with no added
freon and worked fine last summer.

Prices vary for that but apt to be in line with about 100$ plus whtever they
charge locally for a regular checkup and cleaning of the coils. Call it
probably 200-275$ total as a reasonable guess? May obviously be a bit more
or less where you are.

This assumes you've done the obvious and changed any filters etc (about 5$
for a new filter here and takes all of 3 mins to swap out the old one).

My area is a little cheaper and we got an estimate in spring, 175$.

I feel the same way about automobile tires.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"CJT" wrote in message
...
These closed systems should pretty much _never_ (even in 11 years)
require additional freon, IMHO.

Old copper gets brittle. Leave it. Or build something under the overhang
edge.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"mm" wrote in message
...

My condenser unit has gradually moved about 7 inches to the right in
the last 25 years. It's hanging off its slab a little bit. I think
if I tried to move it back where it started, I would likely crack the
copper pipes. Yes?

Otherwise, if you're right, I'm glad to hear it, because that is one
of the three things that could fail, I think, and you're saying it
won't.

My system is 29 years old with no freon ever added. Haven't used it
this year yet, but it worked fine August of last year.

Stormin Mormon wrote:

I feel the same way about automobile tires.

.... and you're correct in that, too; I find the only time my tires need
air is when I have a puncture.

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .

On Sat, 19 Jul 2008 20:46:32 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Old copper gets brittle. Leave it. Or build something under the overhang
edge.

Roger, wilco.

No need to build anything, at least not yet. It's only one inch out
of 15. And I'm thinking it might not move as much in the future as
it has so far. I guess maybe it's the copper pipe going back to its
original shape that is moving it. Either that or the wind.

You can't use the word degradation on Usenet. Not enough people will know
what you be rappin, bro.

AC struggles is typically low freon, or reduced air flow. Or dirty coils.
One of thems. Know I'm sayin', home?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Buck Turgidson" wrote in message
...

But, the unit perform OK in the past. Unless the ducts/registers were
changed that does not really solve the root cause of the problem.


That's the key point. Nothing has changed. Just a degradation of
performance.

On Jul 19, 11:06*am, "Buck Turgidson" wrote:
But, the unit perform OK in the past. *Unless the ducts/registers were
changed that does not really solve the root cause of the problem.

That's the key point. *Nothing has changed. *Just a degradation of
performance.

Your AC is a precision machine, so is your car, what would happen to
your car if you did nothing but put in gas for 11 years, it wouldnt
run.. But maybe you dont maintain anything and have no car. Get it
serviced, last year.