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Default Drywall question

If I hang the drywall sheets horizontally, should I cut off
the tapered edge on the edge that will be closest to the
floor?

Thanks,
Ken


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Default Drywall question

On Mon, 14 Jul 2008 03:43:20 -0400, "NapalmHeart"
wrote:

If I hang the drywall sheets horizontally, should I cut off
the tapered edge on the edge that will be closest to the
floor?

Thanks,
Ken



That's not a good idea (nor necessary) since that edge has some paper
protection. The base molding should cover it, if not mud the taper
flat.
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Default Drywall question

In article utertechnology, "NapalmHeart" wrote:
If I hang the drywall sheets horizontally, should I cut off
the tapered edge on the edge that will be closest to the
floor?


Yes. If you don't, you'll be trying to apply base molding to the taper, and it
won't fit right.
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"Harry K" wrote in message
...
On Jul 14, 4:47 am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article
utertechnology,
"NapalmHeart" wrote:

If I hang the drywall sheets horizontally, should I cut
off
the tapered edge on the edge that will be closest to the
floor?


Yes. If you don't, you'll be trying to apply base molding
to the taper, and it
won't fit right.


So, assuming a standard wall (8'), you cut the taper off the
bottom
one, what do you do with the resulting gap at the top?

No, you don't cut it off unless you want other problems or
the wall is
less than 8' tall.

Harry K

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

It is a basement wall and the basement is 9' deep.

Ken




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Default Drywall question

no. they wont' be tall enough if you do. and the tapered edge will be
behind the baseboard anyway.

s


"NapalmHeart" wrote in message
computertechnology...
If I hang the drywall sheets horizontally, should I cut off the tapered
edge on the edge that will be closest to the floor?

Thanks,
Ken



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Default Drywall question

On Jul 14, 7:58*am, "NapalmHeart" wrote:
"Harry K" wrote in message

...
On Jul 14, 4:47 am, (Doug Miller) wrote:

In article
utertechnology,
"NapalmHeart" wrote:


If I hang the drywall sheets horizontally, should I cut
off
the tapered edge on the edge that will be closest to the
floor?


Yes. If you don't, you'll be trying to apply base molding
to the taper, and it
won't fit right.


So, assuming a standard wall (8'), you cut the taper off the
bottom
one, what do you do with the resulting gap at the top?

No, you don't cut it off unless you want other problems or
the wall is
less than 8' tall.

Harry K

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

It is a basement wall and the basement is 9' deep.

Ken


Okay. That puts it right at the problem I had with a living room (old
construction) It was 8' plus in height. I filled in near the
bottom. Had one end that I had a pro do. He ran it horizontal an put
the patch in the middle of the wall. Amazingly easy to tape that
double joint just as if it were a single joint. In your case I would
do the same - i.e., put the filler in the middle and you could cut the
taper off the bottom but that joint in the middle is growing much
wider then.

Now to the problem of the taper at the bottom. I have done it two
ways. One is 'shade tree'.

1. Set a nail in each corner leaving it proud by the amount of the
taper. That makes the molding fit perfedtly in the corner and the
'angle' isn't noticeable on the run between corners.

2. Mud the taper - doesn't need to be a smoot 'finish' job.

3. Shim it out with 1/16' stock. Scrap formica, whatever.

Harry K
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Default Drywall question

Thanks to all for the replies.

Here's what I figure I'll do. Since we will eventually use
one of the available products that raise the floor up away
from the concrete I'm going to install the board with the
taper left on, rather than losing the width of the taper.
I'll get some 3/8" board to use between the upper and lower
sheets to try to minimize the number of joints to tape and
mud. If the taper present a problem with the baseboard I'll
shim behind it to bring it back out.

Ken


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Default Drywall question

On Jul 15, 5:23*pm, "NapalmHeart" wrote:
Thanks to all for the replies.

Here's what I figure I'll do. *Since we will eventually use
one of the available products that raise the floor up away
from the concrete I'm going to install the board with the
taper left on, rather than losing the width of the taper.
I'll get some 3/8" board to use between the upper and lower
sheets to try to minimize the number of joints to tape and
mud. If the taper present a problem with the baseboard I'll


----------------------------------------------

shim behind it to bring it back out.

Ken

------------------------------------------------

If you mean 'behind the sheetrock', don't. Any shimming should be on
the front and it will be hidden by the baseboard anyhow.

Harry K


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"Harry K" wrote in message
...
On Jul 15, 5:23 pm, "NapalmHeart"
wrote:
Thanks to all for the replies.

Here's what I figure I'll do. Since we will eventually use
one of the available products that raise the floor up away
from the concrete I'm going to install the board with the
taper left on, rather than losing the width of the taper.
I'll get some 3/8" board to use between the upper and
lower
sheets to try to minimize the number of joints to tape and
mud. If the taper present a problem with the baseboard
I'll


----------------------------------------------

shim behind it to bring it back out.

Ken

------------------------------------------------

If you mean 'behind the sheetrock', don't. Any shimming
should be on
the front and it will be hidden by the baseboard anyhow.

Harry K
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
No, of course not. Just enough shim behind the baseboard to
bring it back straight,

Thanks for the reply.

Ken


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