I am a novice DIYer who is renovating a second floor bathroom.I took
a wall out and extended my bathroom into an adjoining closet.There is
now a 4inch gap between the drywall of my bathroom and the drywall of
the closet where the old wall used to be. The gap is also in the
ceiling. Is it better to patch the gap, or remove the drywall in the
old closet and use one piece?
Thanks

On Jan 21, 6:39*am, wrote:
I am a novice DIYer who is renovating *a second floor bathroom.I took
a wall out and extended my bathroom into an adjoining closet.There is
now a 4inch gap between the drywall of my bathroom and the drywall of
the closet where the old wall used to be. The gap is also in the
ceiling. Is it better to patch the gap, or remove the drywall in the
old closet and use one piece?
Thanks

Both ways will work. Patching is the easiest but you will be putting
tape on two seams 4" apart and then finishing it as one very wide
seam.

Harry K

Harry K wrote:
On Jan 21, 6:39 am, wrote:
I am a novice DIYer who is renovating a second floor bathroom.I took
a wall out and extended my bathroom into an adjoining closet.There is
now a 4inch gap between the drywall of my bathroom and the drywall of
the closet where the old wall used to be. The gap is also in the
ceiling. Is it better to patch the gap, or remove the drywall in the
old closet and use one piece?
Thanks

Both ways will work. Patching is the easiest but you will be putting
tape on two seams 4" apart and then finishing it as one very wide
seam.

Harry K

I agree (after having just drywalled my basement with zero experience...)
You can do either. If you replace the drywall in the closet, you'll have a
better chance of feathering that one seam than if you put a patch piece in.
Plus, with one seam, you have a better chance of the tapered edge making
for an invisible seam. With a patch - you're probably going to end up with
one or two but-jointed pieces meeting - they're harder to feather out.

Either way is fine. Do you have exposed studs in the gap?

a

"a" wrote in message news:zz3lj.35867$fj2.13915@edtnps82...
Harry K wrote:
On Jan 21, 6:39 am, wrote:
I am a novice DIYer who is renovating a second floor bathroom.I took
a wall out and extended my bathroom into an adjoining closet.There is
now a 4inch gap between the drywall of my bathroom and the drywall of
the closet where the old wall used to be. The gap is also in the
ceiling. Is it better to patch the gap, or remove the drywall in the
old closet and use one piece?
Thanks

Both ways will work. Patching is the easiest but you will be putting
tape on two seams 4" apart and then finishing it as one very wide
seam.

Harry K

I agree (after having just drywalled my basement with zero experience...)
You can do either. If you replace the drywall in the closet, you'll have
a better chance of feathering that one seam than if you put a patch piece
in. Plus, with one seam, you have a better chance of the tapered edge
making for an invisible seam. With a patch - you're probably going to end
up with one or two but-jointed pieces meeting - they're harder to feather
out.

Either way is fine. Do you have exposed studs in the gap?

a

Depends on you. Patching is easy, and cheaper. If you have texture, write
back, and I'll give you some tips I have learned for retexturing small
areas.

Steve

On Jan 21, 10:23*am, "SteveB" wrote:
"a" wrote in messagenews:zz3lj.35867$fj2.13915@edtnps82...
Harry K wrote:
On Jan 21, 6:39 am, wrote:
I am a novice DIYer who is renovating *a second floor bathroom.I took
a wall out and extended my bathroom into an adjoining closet.There is
now a 4inch gap between the drywall of my bathroom and the drywall of
the closet where the old wall used to be. The gap is also in the
ceiling. Is it better to patch the gap, or remove the drywall in the
old closet and use one piece?
Thanks

Both ways will work. *Patching is the easiest but you will be putting
tape on two seams 4" apart and then finishing it as one very wide
seam.

Harry K

I agree (after having just drywalled my basement with zero experience...)
You can do either. *If you replace the drywall in the closet, you'll have
a better chance of feathering that one seam than if you put a patch piece
in. Plus, with one seam, you have a better chance of the tapered edge
making for an invisible seam. *With a patch - you're probably going to end
up with one or two but-jointed pieces meeting - they're harder to feather
out.

Either way is fine. *Do you have exposed studs in the gap?

a

Depends on you. *Patching is easy, and cheaper. *If you have texture, write
back, and I'll give you some tips I have learned for retexturing small
areas.

Steve- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I have exposed studs in the wall, but I don't know yet about the
ceiling. The ceiling in my bathroom has popcorn stucco, while the
ceiling in my closet was just bare drywall.The wall I removed had 2
2x4's--a header?--nailed into the rafters.I removed one of the 2x4s,
but I am worried when I remove the top one the blown-in insulation in
my attic is going to fall into the bathroom.I guess I will have to do
it eventually. I think finishing the ceiling is going to be a head
ache.

On Jan 21, 3:46*pm, "SteveB" wrote:
wrote in message

...
On Jan 21, 10:23 am, "SteveB" wrote:





"a" wrote in messagenews:zz3lj.35867$fj2.13915@edtnps82...
Harry K wrote:
On Jan 21, 6:39 am, wrote:
I am a novice DIYer who is renovating a second floor bathroom.I took
a wall out and extended my bathroom into an adjoining closet.There is
now a 4inch gap between the drywall of my bathroom and the drywall of
the closet where the old wall used to be. The gap is also in the
ceiling. Is it better to patch the gap, or remove the drywall in the
old closet and use one piece?
Thanks

Both ways will work. Patching is the easiest but you will be putting
tape on two seams 4" apart and then finishing it as one very wide
seam.

Harry K

I agree (after having just drywalled my basement with zero
experience...)
You can do either. If you replace the drywall in the closet, you'll have
a better chance of feathering that one seam than if you put a patch
piece
in. Plus, with one seam, you have a better chance of the tapered edge
making for an invisible seam. With a patch - you're probably going to
end
up with one or two but-jointed pieces meeting - they're harder to
feather
out.

Either way is fine. Do you have exposed studs in the gap?

a

Depends on you. Patching is easy, and cheaper. If you have texture, write
back, and I'll give you some tips I have learned for retexturing small
areas.

Steve- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I have exposed studs in the wall, but I don't know yet about the
ceiling. The ceiling in my bathroom has popcorn stucco, while the
ceiling in my closet was just bare drywall.The wall I removed had 2
2x4's--a header?--nailed into the rafters.I removed one of the 2x4s,
but I am worried when I remove the top one the blown-in insulation in
my attic is going to fall into the bathroom.I guess I will have to do
it eventually. I think finishing the ceiling is going to be a head
ache.

You may have to tape the joint. *Or build some type of backup.

If it's popcorn, it's doable with those cans. *Just have everything masked
you don't want texture on, and realize that once you hit the button, you
have got about three seconds of blasting spray. *I wasted about two cans
just getting used to that. *Distance is critical, and if you're too close,
you'll end up with a blob that looks like a cowpie. *And then it will fall
on your head. *Start your arms in motion before you hit the button, and let
off the button while your arms are still moving, trying to push the button
when it lines up with the area you want textured. *Swing past both ends.
Try to put it on light rather than heavy. *You may get lucky and get it
right in one pass. *It ain't rocket surgery, but it IS tricky. *Clean up
excess that spatters while it's wet with damp cloth.

Good luck, have fun, and wear something to keep it from falling into your
eyes.

Steve- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

With those cans, saying "get everything masked" because of overspray
is like saying you need an umbella in New Orleans because of the
hurricanes. Those things are like setting off a small paint bomb. If
you've mastered it in two cans, you're better than me -- I'm still
having nightmares.

I've had better luck with the roll/brush on version of paint (at least
I don't end up picking styrofoam out of my teeth for the next month).

"Steve" wrote in message
. 128...
"SteveB" wrote on 21 Jan 2008 in group
alt.home.repair:

Depends on you. Patching is easy, and cheaper. If you have texture,
write back, and I'll give you some tips I have learned for
retexturing small areas.

Give us your tips anyway. I'm always up to learn a new trick. Thanks!

--
Steve B.
New Life Home Improvement

They have to do with fixing texturing. These are for orange peel and
knockdown. There's not much to say about taping and mudding other than to
have it flat.

I remodeled a couple of rooms, and there were about ten square feet of
retexturing to do. A couple of really narly places where boxes were covered
over and such. A three square foot space on the ceiling that I thought I
could never get to looking good. Now you can't find the repairs.

Texture of mud for retexturing is critical. I find thin to be best. Some
people have developed ways of slinging it off a particular brush, or taking
a whisk broom and flicking a few straws or straight daubing. Point is, I'm
only telling you what I got to work.

And that was fingers. BUT, there's a huge difference in where you dunk your
fingers into the wet mud and how you flick/fling your fingers. If you dunk
your finger or fingertips in the mud, when you flick your fingers from a
fist it flies off different than if you put the long part of your finger
into a tray and let it get on the edge that has your fingerprints on it. I
call flicking like you'd pop your kid on the noggin holding your fingertip
on your thumb and holding your hand still. Flinging is when you fling your
whole forearm and hand. Fingertips will give you smaller areas of dots.
Finger sides (the palm side) will give you longer patterns, and be more
elongated then just spots. Flicking gives one result, flinging another, and
kind of a popping action with the hand/wrist another, although it makes your
arm ache for a couple of days.

So, either way, take a piece of trash drywall and try flicking and flinging.
For small areas, I have found that for me, doing it with just my fingers
works best.

If you do a knockdown, the timing of the knockdown is critical. You wait
until the drops have dried with a white ring around them, and the center is
still tan from being wet. Don't get impatient, you will have a lot of time
to knockdown before it actually dries hard. You can't wait eight hours, or
have it 100 degrees from a heater in there and expect to get any kind of
knockdown.

As for other textures, it's just a matter of trial and error and doing it a
lot. But understanding the thickness of the mud, spattering/application
techniques, and knowing when to knock down help a lot.

And if you mess up, just take a wet towel, wipe, and do it again.

HTH

Steve

wrote in message
...
On Jan 21, 10:23 am, "SteveB" wrote:
"a" wrote in messagenews:zz3lj.35867$fj2.13915@edtnps82...
Harry K wrote:
On Jan 21, 6:39 am, wrote:
I am a novice DIYer who is renovating a second floor bathroom.I took
a wall out and extended my bathroom into an adjoining closet.There is
now a 4inch gap between the drywall of my bathroom and the drywall of
the closet where the old wall used to be. The gap is also in the
ceiling. Is it better to patch the gap, or remove the drywall in the
old closet and use one piece?
Thanks

Both ways will work. Patching is the easiest but you will be putting
tape on two seams 4" apart and then finishing it as one very wide
seam.

Harry K

I agree (after having just drywalled my basement with zero
experience...)
You can do either. If you replace the drywall in the closet, you'll have
a better chance of feathering that one seam than if you put a patch
piece
in. Plus, with one seam, you have a better chance of the tapered edge
making for an invisible seam. With a patch - you're probably going to
end
up with one or two but-jointed pieces meeting - they're harder to
feather
out.

Either way is fine. Do you have exposed studs in the gap?

a

Depends on you. Patching is easy, and cheaper. If you have texture, write
back, and I'll give you some tips I have learned for retexturing small
areas.

Steve- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I have exposed studs in the wall, but I don't know yet about the
ceiling. The ceiling in my bathroom has popcorn stucco, while the
ceiling in my closet was just bare drywall.The wall I removed had 2
2x4's--a header?--nailed into the rafters.I removed one of the 2x4s,
but I am worried when I remove the top one the blown-in insulation in
my attic is going to fall into the bathroom.I guess I will have to do
it eventually. I think finishing the ceiling is going to be a head
ache.

You may have to tape the joint. Or build some type of backup.

If it's popcorn, it's doable with those cans. Just have everything masked
you don't want texture on, and realize that once you hit the button, you
have got about three seconds of blasting spray. I wasted about two cans
just getting used to that. Distance is critical, and if you're too close,
you'll end up with a blob that looks like a cowpie. And then it will fall
on your head. Start your arms in motion before you hit the button, and let
off the button while your arms are still moving, trying to push the button
when it lines up with the area you want textured. Swing past both ends.
Try to put it on light rather than heavy. You may get lucky and get it
right in one pass. It ain't rocket surgery, but it IS tricky. Clean up
excess that spatters while it's wet with damp cloth.

Good luck, have fun, and wear something to keep it from falling into your
eyes.

Steve

On Mon, 21 Jan 2008 09:23:22 -0800, "SteveB"
wrote:


"a" wrote in message news:zz3lj.35867$fj2.13915@edtnps82...
Harry K wrote:
On Jan 21, 6:39 am, wrote:
I am a novice DIYer who is renovating a second floor bathroom.I took
a wall out and extended my bathroom into an adjoining closet.There is
now a 4inch gap between the drywall of my bathroom and the drywall of
the closet where the old wall used to be. The gap is also in the
ceiling. Is it better to patch the gap, or remove the drywall in the
old closet and use one piece?
Thanks

Both ways will work. Patching is the easiest but you will be putting
tape on two seams 4" apart and then finishing it as one very wide
seam.

Harry K

I agree (after having just drywalled my basement with zero experience...)
You can do either. If you replace the drywall in the closet, you'll have
a better chance of feathering that one seam than if you put a patch piece
in. Plus, with one seam, you have a better chance of the tapered edge
making for an invisible seam. With a patch - you're probably going to end
up with one or two but-jointed pieces meeting - they're harder to feather
out.

Either way is fine. Do you have exposed studs in the gap?

a

Depends on you. Patching is easy, and cheaper. If you have texture, write
back, and I'll give you some tips I have learned for retexturing small
areas.

Steve


I have a tip on the _path of least destruction_! Cost just .99 cents.

Texture tips are extra :-))

Oren
--

"Pat" wrote in message
...
On Jan 21, 3:46 pm, "SteveB" wrote:
wrote in message

...
On Jan 21, 10:23 am, "SteveB" wrote:





"a" wrote in messagenews:zz3lj.35867$fj2.13915@edtnps82...
Harry K wrote:
On Jan 21, 6:39 am, wrote:
I am a novice DIYer who is renovating a second floor bathroom.I took
a wall out and extended my bathroom into an adjoining closet.There
is
now a 4inch gap between the drywall of my bathroom and the drywall
of
the closet where the old wall used to be. The gap is also in the
ceiling. Is it better to patch the gap, or remove the drywall in the
old closet and use one piece?
Thanks

Both ways will work. Patching is the easiest but you will be putting
tape on two seams 4" apart and then finishing it as one very wide
seam.

Harry K

I agree (after having just drywalled my basement with zero
experience...)
You can do either. If you replace the drywall in the closet, you'll
have
a better chance of feathering that one seam than if you put a patch
piece
in. Plus, with one seam, you have a better chance of the tapered edge
making for an invisible seam. With a patch - you're probably going to
end
up with one or two but-jointed pieces meeting - they're harder to
feather
out.

Either way is fine. Do you have exposed studs in the gap?

a

Depends on you. Patching is easy, and cheaper. If you have texture,
write
back, and I'll give you some tips I have learned for retexturing small
areas.

Steve- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I have exposed studs in the wall, but I don't know yet about the
ceiling. The ceiling in my bathroom has popcorn stucco, while the
ceiling in my closet was just bare drywall.The wall I removed had 2
2x4's--a header?--nailed into the rafters.I removed one of the 2x4s,
but I am worried when I remove the top one the blown-in insulation in
my attic is going to fall into the bathroom.I guess I will have to do
it eventually. I think finishing the ceiling is going to be a head
ache.

You may have to tape the joint. Or build some type of backup.

If it's popcorn, it's doable with those cans. Just have everything masked
you don't want texture on, and realize that once you hit the button, you
have got about three seconds of blasting spray. I wasted about two cans
just getting used to that. Distance is critical, and if you're too close,
you'll end up with a blob that looks like a cowpie. And then it will fall
on your head. Start your arms in motion before you hit the button, and let
off the button while your arms are still moving, trying to push the button
when it lines up with the area you want textured. Swing past both ends.
Try to put it on light rather than heavy. You may get lucky and get it
right in one pass. It ain't rocket surgery, but it IS tricky. Clean up
excess that spatters while it's wet with damp cloth.

Good luck, have fun, and wear something to keep it from falling into your
eyes.

Steve- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

With those cans, saying "get everything masked" because of overspray
is like saying you need an umbella in New Orleans because of the
hurricanes. Those things are like setting off a small paint bomb. If
you've mastered it in two cans, you're better than me -- I'm still
having nightmares.

I've had better luck with the roll/brush on version of paint (at least
I don't end up picking styrofoam out of my teeth for the next month).

"Pat" wrote in message
...
On Jan 21, 3:46 pm, "SteveB" wrote:
wrote in message

...
On Jan 21, 10:23 am, "SteveB" wrote:





"a" wrote in messagenews:zz3lj.35867$fj2.13915@edtnps82...
Harry K wrote:
On Jan 21, 6:39 am, wrote:
I am a novice DIYer who is renovating a second floor bathroom.I took
a wall out and extended my bathroom into an adjoining closet.There
is
now a 4inch gap between the drywall of my bathroom and the drywall
of
the closet where the old wall used to be. The gap is also in the
ceiling. Is it better to patch the gap, or remove the drywall in the
old closet and use one piece?
Thanks

Both ways will work. Patching is the easiest but you will be putting
tape on two seams 4" apart and then finishing it as one very wide
seam.

Harry K

I agree (after having just drywalled my basement with zero
experience...)
You can do either. If you replace the drywall in the closet, you'll
have
a better chance of feathering that one seam than if you put a patch
piece
in. Plus, with one seam, you have a better chance of the tapered edge
making for an invisible seam. With a patch - you're probably going to
end
up with one or two but-jointed pieces meeting - they're harder to
feather
out.

Either way is fine. Do you have exposed studs in the gap?

a

Depends on you. Patching is easy, and cheaper. If you have texture,
write
back, and I'll give you some tips I have learned for retexturing small
areas.

Steve- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I have exposed studs in the wall, but I don't know yet about the
ceiling. The ceiling in my bathroom has popcorn stucco, while the
ceiling in my closet was just bare drywall.The wall I removed had 2
2x4's--a header?--nailed into the rafters.I removed one of the 2x4s,
but I am worried when I remove the top one the blown-in insulation in
my attic is going to fall into the bathroom.I guess I will have to do
it eventually. I think finishing the ceiling is going to be a head
ache.

You may have to tape the joint. Or build some type of backup.

If it's popcorn, it's doable with those cans. Just have everything masked
you don't want texture on, and realize that once you hit the button, you
have got about three seconds of blasting spray. I wasted about two cans
just getting used to that. Distance is critical, and if you're too close,
you'll end up with a blob that looks like a cowpie. And then it will fall
on your head. Start your arms in motion before you hit the button, and let
off the button while your arms are still moving, trying to push the button
when it lines up with the area you want textured. Swing past both ends.
Try to put it on light rather than heavy. You may get lucky and get it
right in one pass. It ain't rocket surgery, but it IS tricky. Clean up
excess that spatters while it's wet with damp cloth.

Good luck, have fun, and wear something to keep it from falling into your
eyes.

Steve- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

With those cans, saying "get everything masked" because of overspray
is like saying you need an umbella in New Orleans because of the
hurricanes. Those things are like setting off a small paint bomb. If
you've mastered it in two cans, you're better than me -- I'm still
having nightmares.

I've had better luck with the roll/brush on version of paint (at least
I don't end up picking styrofoam out of my teeth for the next month).

The best two words to describe them is

REALITY CHECK.

Steve

Ok - Ok

After doing numerous drywalling projects know how to tape, mud etc... but up
until today.......

I have never been able to get the knock down to match a small patch ( 1ft
x1ft) I have tried using the spatula and flicking the watered down mud, and
using my fingers to flick at the wall (using a test piece of scrap of
course). The edges of the flicked mud always look too round after being
knocked down, and streaks (where the mud has a line appearance) also show
up.

I used the can too (two actually) with various settings, but even on the
thick setting though the splotches matched somewhat to my walls, the mud
that was sprayed out was too thin on the wall so the knock down wasn't very
thick in the end. I tried heavy large knives, light knives and cardboard,
and heavy and light small knives, and everywhere in-between. I even tried
the roller but usually the splotches didn't match well or the material was
too thin

So today, a thought occurred to me to use something rounded so that when
rolled the splotches would be about the same size as the existing splotches,
but not rounded as with the splatter method. I happened to be looking at a
box in the garage thinking about and saw my box of sprinkler fittings. I
took one of the 18" long 1/2" plastic uprights that you would put the
sprinkler head on, and dipped it in a slightly watered down mud mixture. I
made sure to more on one side and hardly any on another side. I then would
touch the wall that was to be textured in a turning motion getting a random
peak. This was repeated with random amounts of mud on the end of the
upright turning in different angles with different amounts. After letting
it set up for a bit, I came back with a light medium width knife and knocked
them down.

Being *very* particular about getting them to match I amazed as to how well
this technique did. I even showed my neighbor who also struggled with the
same problem. He called it the match a dead ringer.

I figured this trick had to be shared with all those who have struggled with
finding a way to match the knockdown for a small patch but didn't want to
get hopper out to do such a small area (which doesn't always match anyway
since the user is different and uses different strokes/nozzles etc...)

Take this for what its worth but it was easy and looks so so so close no one
will ever be able to tell. I also don't get mud all over my hands.

-Scott


"Steve" wrote in message
.128...
"SteveB" wrote on 21 Jan 2008 in group
alt.home.repair:


"Steve" wrote in message
. 128...
"SteveB" wrote on 21 Jan 2008 in
group alt.home.repair:

Depends on you. Patching is easy, and cheaper. If you have
texture, write back, and I'll give you some tips I have learned for
retexturing small areas.

Give us your tips anyway. I'm always up to learn a new trick.
Thanks!

--
Steve B.
New Life Home Improvement

They have to do with fixing texturing. These are for orange peel and
knockdown. There's not much to say about taping and mudding other
than to have it flat.

I remodeled a couple of rooms, and there were about ten square feet
of retexturing to do. A couple of really narly places where boxes
were covered over and such. A three square foot space on the ceiling
that I thought I could never get to looking good. Now you can't find
the repairs.

Texture of mud for retexturing is critical. I find thin to be best.
Some people have developed ways of slinging it off a particular
brush, or taking a whisk broom and flicking a few straws or straight
daubing. Point is, I'm only telling you what I got to work.

And that was fingers. BUT, there's a huge difference in where you
dunk your fingers into the wet mud and how you flick/fling your
fingers. If you dunk your finger or fingertips in the mud, when you
flick your fingers from a fist it flies off different than if you put
the long part of your finger into a tray and let it get on the edge
that has your fingerprints on it. I call flicking like you'd pop
your kid on the noggin holding your fingertip on your thumb and
holding your hand still. Flinging is when you fling your whole
forearm and hand. Fingertips will give you smaller areas of dots.
Finger sides (the palm side) will give you longer patterns, and be
more elongated then just spots. Flicking gives one result, flinging
another, and kind of a popping action with the hand/wrist another,
although it makes your arm ache for a couple of days.

So, either way, take a piece of trash drywall and try flicking and
flinging. For small areas, I have found that for me, doing it with
just my fingers works best.

If you do a knockdown, the timing of the knockdown is critical. You
wait until the drops have dried with a white ring around them, and
the center is still tan from being wet. Don't get impatient, you
will have a lot of time to knockdown before it actually dries hard.
You can't wait eight hours, or have it 100 degrees from a heater in
there and expect to get any kind of knockdown.

As for other textures, it's just a matter of trial and error and
doing it a lot. But understanding the thickness of the mud,
spattering/application techniques, and knowing when to knock down
help a lot.

And if you mess up, just take a wet towel, wipe, and do it again.

I've never considered doing it with my hands. That's a good idea for
certain situations.

I've used a textured roller (looks like a mesh scrubber, only much
coarser); a flat, round brush made for the purpose; a texture sprayer on
my compressor; and the canned stuff. I've had both good and bad luck
with all of them. I have to go replace some soggy wallboard tomorrow
morning. It's behind a refrigerator, so it's a good chance to experiment
with your finger technique.

Thanks for sharing.

--
Steve B.
New Life Home Improvement

If you are going to patch the 4" gap, you can try using a drywall
which is thinner than the existing walls (if possible). So if you
have 1/2" on your walls, use 3/8. This can make feathering in the
patch easier.

You said you had a double top-plate? Hopefully it wasn't load-bearing
- you might want to confirm. Did the builder use furring strips under
the joists? Or is the ceiling drywall attached directly to the
joists? Adding add'l furring strips is pretty easy and gives you a
nailing edge for your drywall.

On Jan 31, 6:31 pm, "Scott" wrote:
Ok - Ok

After doing numerous drywalling projects know how to tape, mud etc... but up
until today.......

I have never been able to get the knock down to match a small patch ( 1ft
x1ft) I have tried using the spatula and flicking the watered down mud, and
using my fingers to flick at the wall (using a test piece of scrap of
course). The edges of the flicked mud always look too round after being
knocked down, and streaks (where the mud has a line appearance) also show
up.

I used the can too (two actually) with various settings, but even on the
thick setting though the splotches matched somewhat to my walls, the mud
that was sprayed out was too thin on the wall so the knock down wasn't very
thick in the end. I tried heavy large knives, light knives and cardboard,
and heavy and light small knives, and everywhere in-between. I even tried
the roller but usually the splotches didn't match well or the material was
too thin

So today, a thought occurred to me to use something rounded so that when
rolled the splotches would be about the same size as the existing splotches,
but not rounded as with the splatter method. I happened to be looking at a
box in the garage thinking about and saw my box of sprinkler fittings. I
took one of the 18" long 1/2" plastic uprights that you would put the
sprinkler head on, and dipped it in a slightly watered down mud mixture. I
made sure to more on one side and hardly any on another side. I then would
touch the wall that was to be textured in a turning motion getting a random
peak. This was repeated with random amounts of mud on the end of the
upright turning in different angles with different amounts. After letting
it set up for a bit, I came back with a light medium width knife and knocked
them down.

Being *very* particular about getting them to match I amazed as to how well
this technique did. I even showed my neighbor who also struggled with the
same problem. He called it the match a dead ringer.

I figured this trick had to be shared with all those who have struggled with
finding a way to match the knockdown for a small patch but didn't want to
get hopper out to do such a small area (which doesn't always match anyway
since the user is different and uses different strokes/nozzles etc...)

Take this for what its worth but it was easy and looks so so so close no one
will ever be able to tell. I also don't get mud all over my hands.

-Scott

"Steve" wrote in message

.128...



"SteveB" wrote on 21 Jan 2008 in group
alt.home.repair:

"Steve" wrote in message
6.128...
"SteveB" wrote on 21 Jan 2008 in
group alt.home.repair:

Depends on you. Patching is easy, and cheaper. If you have
texture, write back, and I'll give you some tips I have learned for
retexturing small areas.

Give us your tips anyway. I'm always up to learn a new trick.
Thanks!

--
Steve B.
New LifeHomeImprovement

They have to do with fixing texturing. These are for orange peel and
knockdown. There's not much to say about taping and mudding other
than to have it flat.

I remodeled a couple of rooms, and there were about ten square feet
of retexturing to do. A couple of really narly places where boxes
were covered over and such. A three square foot space on the ceiling
that I thought I could never get to looking good. Now you can't find
therepairs.

Texture of mud for retexturing is critical. I find thin to be best.
Some people have developed ways of slinging it off a particular
brush, or taking a whisk broom and flicking a few straws or straight
daubing. Point is, I'm only telling you what I got to work.

And that was fingers. BUT, there's a huge difference in where you
dunk your fingers into the wet mud and how you flick/fling your
fingers. If you dunk your finger or fingertips in the mud, when you
flick your fingers from a fist it flies off different than if you put
the long part of your finger into a tray and let it get on the edge
that has your fingerprints on it. I call flicking like you'd pop
your kid on the noggin holding your fingertip on your thumb and
holding your hand still. Flinging is when you fling your whole
forearm and hand. Fingertips will give you smaller areas of dots.
Finger sides (the palm side) will give you longer patterns, and be
more elongated then just spots. Flicking gives one result, flinging
another, and kind of a popping action with the hand/wrist another,
although it makes your arm ache for a couple of days.

So, either way, take a piece of trash drywall and try flicking and
flinging. For small areas, I have found that for me, doing it with
just my fingers works best.

If you do a knockdown, the timing of the knockdown is critical. You
wait until the drops have dried with a white ring around them, and
the center is still tan from being wet. Don't get impatient, you
will have a lot of time to knockdown before it actually dries hard.
You can't wait eight hours, or have it 100 degrees from a heater in
there and expect to get any kind of knockdown.

As for other textures, it's just a matter of trial and error and
doing it a lot. But understanding the thickness of the mud,
spattering/application techniques, and knowing when to knock down
help a lot.

And if you mess up, just take a wet towel, wipe, and do it again.

I've never considered doing it with my hands. That's a good idea for
certain situations.

I've used a textured roller (looks like a mesh scrubber, only much
coarser); a flat, round brush made for the purpose; a texture sprayer on
my compressor; and the canned stuff. I've had both good and bad luck
with all of them. I have to go replace some soggy wallboard tomorrow
morning. It's behind a refrigerator, so it's a good chance to experiment
with your finger technique.

Thanks for sharing.

--
Steve B.
New LifeHomeImprovement- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

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On Feb 14, 9:38 am, wrote:

Call Mo Tri Clann,

Motriclann? Isn't that a pain reliever for hemmorhoids?

Stop spamming.

R