The main valve to my house needs replacing. Here's a pic

http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/3/...9238/valve.jpg


Any helpful tips I should be aware of first - other than shutting off
the water co. valve first obviously and opening up some faucets to
bleed off pressure.

Since the one pipe is set into the stucco, I wonder if I'll need the
pipe to be moveable and need to break the stucco around the pipe
first? Or should this not be necessary?

Thanks for all input.

On 7/13/2008 6:29 PM Doc spake thus:

The main valve to my house needs replacing. Here's a pic

http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/3/...9238/valve.jpg

Any helpful tips I should be aware of first - other than shutting off
the water co. valve first obviously and opening up some faucets to
bleed off pressure.

Since the one pipe is set into the stucco, I wonder if I'll need the
pipe to be moveable and need to break the stucco around the pipe
first? Or should this not be necessary?

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks as if you could cut the riser (the
pipe going into the ground) below the valve, then unscrew the valve from
the ell to remove it.

To replace, you'd need to thread the top of the pipe, then use some
combination of nipples and a union to install the new valve.

Disclaimer: IANAP (I am not a plumber).


--
"Wikipedia ... it reminds me ... of dogs barking idiotically through
endless nights. It is so bad that a sort of grandeur creeps into it.
It drags itself out of the dark abyss of pish, and crawls insanely up
the topmost pinnacle of posh. It is rumble and bumble. It is flap and
doodle. It is balder and dash."

- With apologies to H. L. Mencken

On Sun, 13 Jul 2008 18:29:18 -0700 (PDT), Doc
wrote:

The main valve to my house needs replacing. Here's a pic

http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/3/...9238/valve.jpg


Any helpful tips I should be aware of first - other than shutting off
the water co. valve first obviously and opening up some faucets to
bleed off pressure.

Since the one pipe is set into the stucco, I wonder if I'll need the
pipe to be moveable and need to break the stucco around the pipe
first? Or should this not be necessary?

Thanks for all input.

IANAP, IANAQ, IANAR

Maybe you can just remove the big nut, and replace whatever needs
replacing.

Is the problem that you can't turn off the water?
Or is the valve leaking to the outside?

Maybe you'll have to take off the handle, the small nut, and the stem
first. Maybe not. Or maybe this won't work at all. IANAS.

"Doc" wrote in message
...
The main valve to my house needs replacing. Here's a pic

http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/3/...9238/valve.jpg


Any helpful tips I should be aware of first - other than shutting off
the water co. valve first obviously and opening up some faucets to
bleed off pressure.

Since the one pipe is set into the stucco, I wonder if I'll need the
pipe to be moveable and need to break the stucco around the pipe
first? Or should this not be necessary?

Thanks for all input.


I'm not a plumber, but isn't it possible to just replace the guts and leave
the existing valve body in place?

IAAP. Unless you are good at soldering, I'd recommend calling a plumber. If
you are good at soldering, don't try this on a weekend. When things go south
on you, now your paying OT.

If I was doing this, I'd install a full port ball valve. You can do that
lower to the ground than this valve is. Your probably going to have to
un-sweat the 90. it's hard to tell scale from the picture.

Before you do anything, confirm that the water company's valve works
when its shut off. If it holds, I would try what the other poster said
and remove the guts of that valve and replace the washer.

"Doc" wrote in message
...
The main valve to my house needs replacing. Here's a pic

http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/3/...9238/valve.jpg


Any helpful tips I should be aware of first - other than shutting off
the water co. valve first obviously and opening up some faucets to
bleed off pressure.

Since the one pipe is set into the stucco, I wonder if I'll need the
pipe to be moveable and need to break the stucco around the pipe
first? Or should this not be necessary?

Thanks for all input.
It looks to me like soldered copper pipe. I would try to repair the existing
valve. To replace it you will need to unsolder the connection where the
elbow connects to the pipe into the stucco. You will probably have to cut
the vertical pipe and lower the new valve far enough to get a new elbow and
short piece of tubing on the top. I think you may have trouble finding an
exact replacement valve with male and female connections.

This is not a difficult job if you are able to do the soldering properly. If
you want to do it and are not sure of your abilities, get some spare
fittings and tubing and practice until you feel comfortable with it. The
old pipe must not have any water in it if you are to successfully unsolder
it or solder to it.

Plan your work carefully and have a plan B (such as call a plumber) if
possible. Don't start on it late Saturday evening!

Don Young

On 7/13/2008 7:34 PM Jay spake thus:

IAAP. Unless you are good at soldering, I'd recommend calling a plumber. If
you are good at soldering, don't try this on a weekend. When things go south
on you, now your paying OT.

Soldering??? Looks like galvanized pipe to me, not copper.


--
"Wikipedia ... it reminds me ... of dogs barking idiotically through
endless nights. It is so bad that a sort of grandeur creeps into it.
It drags itself out of the dark abyss of pish, and crawls insanely up
the topmost pinnacle of posh. It is rumble and bumble. It is flap and
doodle. It is balder and dash."

- With apologies to H. L. Mencken

On Jul 13, 9:55*pm, mm wrote:

Maybe you can just remove the big nut, and replace whatever needs
replacing. *

Is the problem that you can't turn off the water? *
Or is the valve leaking to the outside?


When I attempted to turn it off, it won't tighten. It feels like the
internals have corroded away.


Maybe you'll have to take off the handle, the small nut, and the stem
first. *Maybe not. *Or maybe this won't work at all. IANAS.


Even if that were possible, the valve is 20 years old, I think I'd
like to go to a more modern ball valve.

Take a look at a flow through JetSwet tool.

You cut off the old valve, stick the JetSwet into the line and turn
the handle. The silicone gasket seals the pipe and the water flows
through the tool. You slide a ball valve over the tool and sweat it
into place (or thread it if you have galvanized). Once the solder is
cool, you remove the tool and shut off the ball valve.

You're gonna get wet

http://www.brenelle.com/index.php?type=cat&kind=6

On Jul 13, 11:26*pm, David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 7/13/2008 7:34 PM Jay spake thus:

IAAP. Unless you are good at soldering, I'd recommend calling a plumber.. If
you are good at soldering, don't try this on a weekend. When things go south
on you, now your paying OT.

Soldering??? Looks like galvanized pipe to me, not copper.


I think it's because of the patina of age and the photo isn't exactly
hi-res. If you look closely, you'll see the joints are sweated.

On Sun, 13 Jul 2008 20:30:04 -0700 (PDT), Doc
wrote:

On Jul 13, 9:55*pm, mm wrote:

Maybe you can just remove the big nut, and replace whatever needs
replacing. *

http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/3/...9238/valve.jpg

Is the problem that you can't turn off the water? *
Or is the valve leaking to the outside?


When I attempted to turn it off, it won't tighten. It feels like the
internals have corroded away.

OK. Or it may just need a new washer -- how long will it take to
check? -- and it feels the way it does because it now tightens beyond
its intended depth. Or maybe it needs a new stem, which they sell at
HD or at least real plumbing stores.

Maybe you'll have to take off the handle, the small nut, and the stem
first. *Maybe not. *Or maybe this won't work at all. IANAS.


Even if that were possible, the valve is 20 years old, I think I'd
like to go to a more modern ball valve.

20 years old is nothing. There are loads of such valves that work
fine that are 50 or 100 years old.

What difference does it make if the valve is modern or if it is new?
How often do you turn this valve on and off? I turn mine off maybe
once every 5 or 10 years. When I replace the water heater and once
when I went away for 2 months during the winter and drained the pipes.

But even if you used the valve every day, don't go looking for
trouble. You're likely to find it.

Do it the easy way, and if for some reason you can't replace the
rubber washer, or maybe it even needs a stem and you can't find one,
then you have plenty of time to cut out the whole valve.

Not counting turning the water off at the street, the easy repair is
as little as 20 minutes.

I expect replacing the valve is a mimimum of 2 hours for someone who
doesn't do it frequently.

Use the other 100 minutes to 8 hours for some other house project.

On Jul 13, 9:29�pm, Doc wrote:
The main valve to my house needs replacing. Here's a pic

http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/3/...9238/valve.jpg

Any helpful tips I should be aware of first - other than shutting off
the water co. valve first obviously and opening up some faucets to
bleed off pressure.

Since the one pipe is set into the stucco, I wonder if I'll need the
pipe to be moveable and need to break the stucco around the pipe
first? Or should this not be necessary?

Thanks for all input.

attempt taking valve apart and take to real hardware store for washers
and possibly new stem.

most likekly all it needs is new washer.

From what I can see, from the picture. You have a gate valve. This kind of
valve is fairly expensive, but provides good water flow. It also looks like
you have copper 3/4 inch pipe coming in to the house. You must live in a
warm climate, where the pipes do not freeze.

As to replacement, the other folks have been very helpful with their ideas.
I'd suggest to coordinate with the water co, have the water shut off at
their street valve. Heat the horizontal end of the elbow, and pull the
vertical pipe away from the wall enough to clear. Then, heat the bottom of
the valve, and pull it straight up.

Use a new elbow. Easier than messing around with trying to clean an old
elbow. Hope you are good at sweat soldering. Be sure to use lead free
solder.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Doc" wrote in message
...
The main valve to my house needs replacing. Here's a pic

http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/3/...9238/valve.jpg


Any helpful tips I should be aware of first - other than shutting off
the water co. valve first obviously and opening up some faucets to
bleed off pressure.

Since the one pipe is set into the stucco, I wonder if I'll need the
pipe to be moveable and need to break the stucco around the pipe
first? Or should this not be necessary?

Thanks for all input.

wrote:
On Jul 13, 9:29�pm, Doc wrote:

The main valve to my house needs replacing. Here's a pic

http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/3/...9238/valve.jpg

Any helpful tips I should be aware of first - other than shutting off
the water co. valve first obviously and opening up some faucets to
bleed off pressure.

Since the one pipe is set into the stucco, I wonder if I'll need the
pipe to be moveable and need to break the stucco around the pipe
first? Or should this not be necessary?

Thanks for all input.


attempt taking valve apart and take to real hardware store for washers
and possibly new stem.

most likekly all it needs is new washer.

This is a gate valve. No replaceable parts inside. No rubber washer.

Mark M.

Mark M. wrote:
wrote:
....
attempt taking valve apart and take to real hardware store for washers
and possibly new stem.

most likekly all it needs is new washer.

This is a gate valve. ...[ ]... No rubber washer.

True...

... No replaceable parts inside. ...

Quibble...
Not necessarily -- if body is still good, replacement gates may be
available depending on manufacturer. But, for a 3/4" which this appears
to be, probably as (or more) expensive than new replacement...endquibble



--

On Jul 13, 8:30*pm, Doc wrote:


When I attempted to turn it off, it won't tighten. It feels like the
internals have corroded away.


Can't get to the picture, but sounds like a gate valve. Had mine
replaced last year. Our neighborhood is about 10 years old, I know of
3 or 4 other houses that had to replace theirs. Same symptoms - spin
the handle and nothing happens. I have very minimal plumbing skills,
so I had a plumber do it. Replaced it with a ball valve.

Jerry

"Doc" wrote in message
...
The main valve to my house needs replacing. Here's a pic

http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/3/...9238/valve.jpg


Any helpful tips I should be aware of first - other than shutting off
the water co. valve first obviously and opening up some faucets to
bleed off pressure.

Since the one pipe is set into the stucco, I wonder if I'll need the
pipe to be moveable and need to break the stucco around the pipe
first? Or should this not be necessary?


Thanks for all input.

Don't be the one that shuts the city water valve that feeds the water to
your house. My plumber refused because the potential for trouble is always
there---and was he right! City came down and the long shaft to the valve
broke off. They had to dig up the street down to the valve, replace the shut
off handle. Fill it all in and then had to re-hot top the dug up section.
All in all--let a plumber do it.
MLD

On Mon, 14 Jul 2008 09:08:37 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

From what I can see, from the picture. You have a gate valve. This kind of
valve is fairly expensive, but provides good water flow. It also looks like
you have copper 3/4 inch pipe coming in to the house. You must live in a
warm climate, where the pipes do not freeze.

As to replacement, the other folks have been very helpful with their ideas.
I'd suggest to coordinate with the water co, have the water shut off at
their street valve. Heat the horizontal end of the elbow, and pull the
vertical pipe away from the wall enough to clear. Then, heat the bottom of
the valve, and pull it straight up.

Use a new elbow. Easier than messing around with trying to clean an old
elbow. Hope you are good at sweat soldering. Be sure to use lead free
solder.

How does one drain the water out of this valve and pipe? There's
probably a basement sink that is lower than the valve, but if the
water company's valve is closed, will water drain from the pipe?
Especially below the elbow drain.

"mm" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 14 Jul 2008 09:08:37 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

From what I can see, from the picture. You have a gate valve. This kind of
valve is fairly expensive, but provides good water flow. It also looks
like
you have copper 3/4 inch pipe coming in to the house. You must live in a
warm climate, where the pipes do not freeze.

As to replacement, the other folks have been very helpful with their
ideas.
I'd suggest to coordinate with the water co, have the water shut off at
their street valve. Heat the horizontal end of the elbow, and pull the
vertical pipe away from the wall enough to clear. Then, heat the bottom of
the valve, and pull it straight up.

Use a new elbow. Easier than messing around with trying to clean an old
elbow. Hope you are good at sweat soldering. Be sure to use lead free
solder.

How does one drain the water out of this valve and pipe? There's
probably a basement sink that is lower than the valve, but if the
water company's valve is closed, will water drain from the pipe?
Especially below the elbow drain.

siphon with 1/4" plastic tube.

It's a cheap (junk) gate valve with a snapped stem, you were lucky it
lasted that long. Call a real plumber and have it replaced with a full
port ball valve. From what I've read here I wouldn't suggest doing it
yourself. Your other option is to move.

kenny b

In article ,
Doc wrote:
The main valve to my house needs replacing. Here's a pic

http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/3/...9238/valve.jpg


Any helpful tips I should be aware of first - other than shutting off
the water co. valve first obviously and opening up some faucets to
bleed off pressure.

Since the one pipe is set into the stucco, I wonder if I'll need the
pipe to be moveable and need to break the stucco around the pipe
first? Or should this not be necessary?

Thanks for all input.

You already have loads of input, mostly good.

Definitely get the water company to shut the street valve.

What I would add is to hacksaw the upper elbow thru its middle so that
end is free, then unsolder the bottom end of the valve. The heat will
boil the water out (careful of boiling spatters). Then unsolder the
rest of the elbow, clean both ends, and sweat a new valve and elbow into
place. You may need to add a short bit of pipe between the valve and
elbow (if the new valve is smaller) or cut a bit off the top of the
vertical pipe (if the new valve is larger).


--
Rich Greenberg N Ft Myers, FL, USA richgr atsign panix.com + 1 239 543 1353
Eastern time. N6LRT I speak for myself & my dogs only. VM'er since CP-67
Canines:Val, Red, Shasta & Casey (RIP), Red & Zero, Siberians Owner:Chinook-L
Retired at the beach Asst Owner:Sibernet-L

On Jul 14, 7:44 am, mm wrote:
On Sun, 13 Jul 2008 20:30:04 -0700 (PDT), Doc
wrote:

OK. Or it may just need a new washer -- how long will it take to
check? -- and it feels the way it does because it now tightens beyond
its intended depth. Or maybe it needs a new stem, which they sell at
HD or at least real plumbing stores.


But even if you used the valve every day, don't go looking for
trouble. You're likely to find it.

Do it the easy way, and if for some reason you can't replace the
rubber washer, or maybe it even needs a stem and you can't find one,
then you have plenty of time to cut out the whole valve.

Hey Ace, it's a gate valve.

On Jul 15, 5:15 am, wrote:
It's a cheap (junk) gate valve with a snapped stem, you were lucky it
lasted that long. Call a real plumber and have it replaced with a full
port ball valve. From what I've read here I wouldn't suggest doing it
yourself. Your other option is to move.

kenny b

Don't you just love it when DIYers get in on the act? Aren't they
soooo cute?