|
Options for replacing this valve?
The main valve to my house needs replacing. Here's a pic
http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/3/...9238/valve.jpg Any helpful tips I should be aware of first - other than shutting off the water co. valve first obviously and opening up some faucets to bleed off pressure. Since the one pipe is set into the stucco, I wonder if I'll need the pipe to be moveable and need to break the stucco around the pipe first? Or should this not be necessary? Thanks for all input. |
Options for replacing this valve?
On 7/13/2008 6:29 PM Doc spake thus:
The main valve to my house needs replacing. Here's a pic http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/3/...9238/valve.jpg Any helpful tips I should be aware of first - other than shutting off the water co. valve first obviously and opening up some faucets to bleed off pressure. Since the one pipe is set into the stucco, I wonder if I'll need the pipe to be moveable and need to break the stucco around the pipe first? Or should this not be necessary? Correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks as if you could cut the riser (the pipe going into the ground) below the valve, then unscrew the valve from the ell to remove it. To replace, you'd need to thread the top of the pipe, then use some combination of nipples and a union to install the new valve. Disclaimer: IANAP (I am not a plumber). -- "Wikipedia ... it reminds me ... of dogs barking idiotically through endless nights. It is so bad that a sort of grandeur creeps into it. It drags itself out of the dark abyss of pish, and crawls insanely up the topmost pinnacle of posh. It is rumble and bumble. It is flap and doodle. It is balder and dash." - With apologies to H. L. Mencken |
Options for replacing this valve?
On Sun, 13 Jul 2008 18:29:18 -0700 (PDT), Doc
wrote: The main valve to my house needs replacing. Here's a pic http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/3/...9238/valve.jpg Any helpful tips I should be aware of first - other than shutting off the water co. valve first obviously and opening up some faucets to bleed off pressure. Since the one pipe is set into the stucco, I wonder if I'll need the pipe to be moveable and need to break the stucco around the pipe first? Or should this not be necessary? Thanks for all input. IANAP, IANAQ, IANAR Maybe you can just remove the big nut, and replace whatever needs replacing. Is the problem that you can't turn off the water? Or is the valve leaking to the outside? Maybe you'll have to take off the handle, the small nut, and the stem first. Maybe not. Or maybe this won't work at all. IANAS. |
Options for replacing this valve?
"Doc" wrote in message ... The main valve to my house needs replacing. Here's a pic http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/3/...9238/valve.jpg Any helpful tips I should be aware of first - other than shutting off the water co. valve first obviously and opening up some faucets to bleed off pressure. Since the one pipe is set into the stucco, I wonder if I'll need the pipe to be moveable and need to break the stucco around the pipe first? Or should this not be necessary? Thanks for all input. I'm not a plumber, but isn't it possible to just replace the guts and leave the existing valve body in place? |
Options for replacing this valve?
IAAP. Unless you are good at soldering, I'd recommend calling a plumber. If
you are good at soldering, don't try this on a weekend. When things go south on you, now your paying OT. If I was doing this, I'd install a full port ball valve. You can do that lower to the ground than this valve is. Your probably going to have to un-sweat the 90. it's hard to tell scale from the picture. |
Options for replacing this valve?
Before you do anything, confirm that the water company's valve works
when its shut off. If it holds, I would try what the other poster said and remove the guts of that valve and replace the washer. |
Options for replacing this valve?
"Doc" wrote in message ... The main valve to my house needs replacing. Here's a pic http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/3/...9238/valve.jpg Any helpful tips I should be aware of first - other than shutting off the water co. valve first obviously and opening up some faucets to bleed off pressure. Since the one pipe is set into the stucco, I wonder if I'll need the pipe to be moveable and need to break the stucco around the pipe first? Or should this not be necessary? Thanks for all input. It looks to me like soldered copper pipe. I would try to repair the existing valve. To replace it you will need to unsolder the connection where the elbow connects to the pipe into the stucco. You will probably have to cut the vertical pipe and lower the new valve far enough to get a new elbow and short piece of tubing on the top. I think you may have trouble finding an exact replacement valve with male and female connections. This is not a difficult job if you are able to do the soldering properly. If you want to do it and are not sure of your abilities, get some spare fittings and tubing and practice until you feel comfortable with it. The old pipe must not have any water in it if you are to successfully unsolder it or solder to it. Plan your work carefully and have a plan B (such as call a plumber) if possible. Don't start on it late Saturday evening! Don Young |
Options for replacing this valve?
On 7/13/2008 7:34 PM Jay spake thus:
IAAP. Unless you are good at soldering, I'd recommend calling a plumber. If you are good at soldering, don't try this on a weekend. When things go south on you, now your paying OT. Soldering??? Looks like galvanized pipe to me, not copper. -- "Wikipedia ... it reminds me ... of dogs barking idiotically through endless nights. It is so bad that a sort of grandeur creeps into it. It drags itself out of the dark abyss of pish, and crawls insanely up the topmost pinnacle of posh. It is rumble and bumble. It is flap and doodle. It is balder and dash." - With apologies to H. L. Mencken |
Options for replacing this valve?
On Jul 13, 9:55*pm, mm wrote:
Maybe you can just remove the big nut, and replace whatever needs replacing. * Is the problem that you can't turn off the water? * Or is the valve leaking to the outside? When I attempted to turn it off, it won't tighten. It feels like the internals have corroded away. Maybe you'll have to take off the handle, the small nut, and the stem first. *Maybe not. *Or maybe this won't work at all. IANAS. Even if that were possible, the valve is 20 years old, I think I'd like to go to a more modern ball valve. |
Options for replacing this valve?
Take a look at a flow through JetSwet tool.
You cut off the old valve, stick the JetSwet into the line and turn the handle. The silicone gasket seals the pipe and the water flows through the tool. You slide a ball valve over the tool and sweat it into place (or thread it if you have galvanized). Once the solder is cool, you remove the tool and shut off the ball valve. You're gonna get wet http://www.brenelle.com/index.php?type=cat&kind=6 |
Options for replacing this valve?
On Jul 13, 11:26*pm, David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 7/13/2008 7:34 PM Jay spake thus: IAAP. Unless you are good at soldering, I'd recommend calling a plumber.. If you are good at soldering, don't try this on a weekend. When things go south on you, now your paying OT. Soldering??? Looks like galvanized pipe to me, not copper. I think it's because of the patina of age and the photo isn't exactly hi-res. If you look closely, you'll see the joints are sweated. |
Options for replacing this valve?
On Sun, 13 Jul 2008 20:30:04 -0700 (PDT), Doc
wrote: On Jul 13, 9:55*pm, mm wrote: Maybe you can just remove the big nut, and replace whatever needs replacing. * http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/3/...9238/valve.jpg Is the problem that you can't turn off the water? * Or is the valve leaking to the outside? When I attempted to turn it off, it won't tighten. It feels like the internals have corroded away. OK. Or it may just need a new washer -- how long will it take to check? -- and it feels the way it does because it now tightens beyond its intended depth. Or maybe it needs a new stem, which they sell at HD or at least real plumbing stores. Maybe you'll have to take off the handle, the small nut, and the stem first. *Maybe not. *Or maybe this won't work at all. IANAS. Even if that were possible, the valve is 20 years old, I think I'd like to go to a more modern ball valve. 20 years old is nothing. There are loads of such valves that work fine that are 50 or 100 years old. What difference does it make if the valve is modern or if it is new? How often do you turn this valve on and off? I turn mine off maybe once every 5 or 10 years. When I replace the water heater and once when I went away for 2 months during the winter and drained the pipes. But even if you used the valve every day, don't go looking for trouble. You're likely to find it. Do it the easy way, and if for some reason you can't replace the rubber washer, or maybe it even needs a stem and you can't find one, then you have plenty of time to cut out the whole valve. Not counting turning the water off at the street, the easy repair is as little as 20 minutes. I expect replacing the valve is a mimimum of 2 hours for someone who doesn't do it frequently. Use the other 100 minutes to 8 hours for some other house project. |
Options for replacing this valve?
On Jul 13, 9:29�pm, Doc wrote:
The main valve to my house needs replacing. Here's a pic http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/3/...9238/valve.jpg Any helpful tips I should be aware of first - other than shutting off the water co. valve first obviously and opening up some faucets to bleed off pressure. Since the one pipe is set into the stucco, I wonder if I'll need the pipe to be moveable and need to break the stucco around the pipe first? Or should this not be necessary? Thanks for all input. attempt taking valve apart and take to real hardware store for washers and possibly new stem. most likekly all it needs is new washer. |
Options for replacing this valve?
From what I can see, from the picture. You have a gate valve. This kind of
valve is fairly expensive, but provides good water flow. It also looks like you have copper 3/4 inch pipe coming in to the house. You must live in a warm climate, where the pipes do not freeze. As to replacement, the other folks have been very helpful with their ideas. I'd suggest to coordinate with the water co, have the water shut off at their street valve. Heat the horizontal end of the elbow, and pull the vertical pipe away from the wall enough to clear. Then, heat the bottom of the valve, and pull it straight up. Use a new elbow. Easier than messing around with trying to clean an old elbow. Hope you are good at sweat soldering. Be sure to use lead free solder. -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "Doc" wrote in message ... The main valve to my house needs replacing. Here's a pic http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/3/...9238/valve.jpg Any helpful tips I should be aware of first - other than shutting off the water co. valve first obviously and opening up some faucets to bleed off pressure. Since the one pipe is set into the stucco, I wonder if I'll need the pipe to be moveable and need to break the stucco around the pipe first? Or should this not be necessary? Thanks for all input. |
Options for replacing this valve?
Mark M. wrote:
wrote: .... attempt taking valve apart and take to real hardware store for washers and possibly new stem. most likekly all it needs is new washer. This is a gate valve. ...[ ]... No rubber washer. True... ... No replaceable parts inside. ... Quibble... Not necessarily -- if body is still good, replacement gates may be available depending on manufacturer. But, for a 3/4" which this appears to be, probably as (or more) expensive than new replacement...endquibble :) -- |
Options for replacing this valve?
On Jul 13, 8:30*pm, Doc wrote:
When I attempted to turn it off, it won't tighten. It feels like the internals have corroded away. Can't get to the picture, but sounds like a gate valve. Had mine replaced last year. Our neighborhood is about 10 years old, I know of 3 or 4 other houses that had to replace theirs. Same symptoms - spin the handle and nothing happens. I have very minimal plumbing skills, so I had a plumber do it. Replaced it with a ball valve. Jerry |
Options for replacing this valve?
"Doc" wrote in message ... The main valve to my house needs replacing. Here's a pic http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/3/...9238/valve.jpg Any helpful tips I should be aware of first - other than shutting off the water co. valve first obviously and opening up some faucets to bleed off pressure. Since the one pipe is set into the stucco, I wonder if I'll need the pipe to be moveable and need to break the stucco around the pipe first? Or should this not be necessary? Thanks for all input. Don't be the one that shuts the city water valve that feeds the water to your house. My plumber refused because the potential for trouble is always there---and was he right! City came down and the long shaft to the valve broke off. They had to dig up the street down to the valve, replace the shut off handle. Fill it all in and then had to re-hot top the dug up section. All in all--let a plumber do it. MLD |
Options for replacing this valve?
On Mon, 14 Jul 2008 09:08:37 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote: From what I can see, from the picture. You have a gate valve. This kind of valve is fairly expensive, but provides good water flow. It also looks like you have copper 3/4 inch pipe coming in to the house. You must live in a warm climate, where the pipes do not freeze. As to replacement, the other folks have been very helpful with their ideas. I'd suggest to coordinate with the water co, have the water shut off at their street valve. Heat the horizontal end of the elbow, and pull the vertical pipe away from the wall enough to clear. Then, heat the bottom of the valve, and pull it straight up. Use a new elbow. Easier than messing around with trying to clean an old elbow. Hope you are good at sweat soldering. Be sure to use lead free solder. How does one drain the water out of this valve and pipe? There's probably a basement sink that is lower than the valve, but if the water company's valve is closed, will water drain from the pipe? Especially below the elbow drain. |
Options for replacing this valve?
"mm" wrote in message ... On Mon, 14 Jul 2008 09:08:37 -0400, "Stormin Mormon" wrote: From what I can see, from the picture. You have a gate valve. This kind of valve is fairly expensive, but provides good water flow. It also looks like you have copper 3/4 inch pipe coming in to the house. You must live in a warm climate, where the pipes do not freeze. As to replacement, the other folks have been very helpful with their ideas. I'd suggest to coordinate with the water co, have the water shut off at their street valve. Heat the horizontal end of the elbow, and pull the vertical pipe away from the wall enough to clear. Then, heat the bottom of the valve, and pull it straight up. Use a new elbow. Easier than messing around with trying to clean an old elbow. Hope you are good at sweat soldering. Be sure to use lead free solder. How does one drain the water out of this valve and pipe? There's probably a basement sink that is lower than the valve, but if the water company's valve is closed, will water drain from the pipe? Especially below the elbow drain. siphon with 1/4" plastic tube. |
Options for replacing this valve?
It's a cheap (junk) gate valve with a snapped stem, you were lucky it
lasted that long. Call a real plumber and have it replaced with a full port ball valve. From what I've read here I wouldn't suggest doing it yourself. Your other option is to move. kenny b |
Options for replacing this valve?
In article ,
Doc wrote: The main valve to my house needs replacing. Here's a pic http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/3/...9238/valve.jpg Any helpful tips I should be aware of first - other than shutting off the water co. valve first obviously and opening up some faucets to bleed off pressure. Since the one pipe is set into the stucco, I wonder if I'll need the pipe to be moveable and need to break the stucco around the pipe first? Or should this not be necessary? Thanks for all input. You already have loads of input, mostly good. Definitely get the water company to shut the street valve. What I would add is to hacksaw the upper elbow thru its middle so that end is free, then unsolder the bottom end of the valve. The heat will boil the water out (careful of boiling spatters). Then unsolder the rest of the elbow, clean both ends, and sweat a new valve and elbow into place. You may need to add a short bit of pipe between the valve and elbow (if the new valve is smaller) or cut a bit off the top of the vertical pipe (if the new valve is larger). -- Rich Greenberg N Ft Myers, FL, USA richgr atsign panix.com + 1 239 543 1353 Eastern time. N6LRT I speak for myself & my dogs only. VM'er since CP-67 Canines:Val, Red, Shasta & Casey (RIP), Red & Zero, Siberians Owner:Chinook-L Retired at the beach Asst Owner:Sibernet-L |
Options for replacing this valve?
On Jul 14, 7:44 am, mm wrote:
On Sun, 13 Jul 2008 20:30:04 -0700 (PDT), Doc wrote: OK. Or it may just need a new washer -- how long will it take to check? -- and it feels the way it does because it now tightens beyond its intended depth. Or maybe it needs a new stem, which they sell at HD or at least real plumbing stores. But even if you used the valve every day, don't go looking for trouble. You're likely to find it. Do it the easy way, and if for some reason you can't replace the rubber washer, or maybe it even needs a stem and you can't find one, then you have plenty of time to cut out the whole valve. Hey Ace, it's a gate valve. |
Options for replacing this valve?
On Jul 15, 5:15 am, wrote:
It's a cheap (junk) gate valve with a snapped stem, you were lucky it lasted that long. Call a real plumber and have it replaced with a full port ball valve. From what I've read here I wouldn't suggest doing it yourself. Your other option is to move. kenny b Don't you just love it when DIYers get in on the act? Aren't they soooo cute? |
| All times are GMT +1. The time now is 09:31 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004 - 2014 DIYbanter