Hate to have to ask about something so trivial-sounding, but ...

If I get mold/mildew on the grout in the shower, I can scrub it off
with Tilex and an old toothbrush.

Such approach doesn't work at all for m/m on the tub caulk, and I dunno why.

Any ideas?

Thx,
Peetie

On Jun 24, 5:38�pm, Peetie Wheatstraw
wrote:
Hate to have to ask about something so trivial-sounding, but ...

If I get mold/mildew on the grout in the shower, I can scrub it off
with Tilex and an old toothbrush.

Such approach doesn't work at all for m/m on the tub caulk, and I dunno why.

Any ideas?

Thx,
Peetie

use straight bleach. that kills mold dead.

unless the caulk has permanetely discolored, in which case replace it

Peetie Wheatstraw wrote:

Hate to have to ask about something so trivial-sounding, but ...

If I get mold/mildew on the grout in the shower, I can scrub it off
with Tilex and an old toothbrush.

Such approach doesn't work at all for m/m on the tub caulk, and I dunno why.

Any ideas?

Thx,
Peetie


Mildew might be under the caulk. If caulk isn't concave and smoothe, it
can trap soap scum, water and
whatever else is in the shower - mildew grows in what is trapped.
Wiping with straight bleach might
get rid of the mildew, and leaving the shower open to air circulation
when not in use should help. I
recently started using Scrubbin Bubbles in our shower - much better
results with much less work
than Tilex or CLR. CLR is still very good for lime.

On Jun 24, 6:07Â*pm, " wrote:
On Jun 24, 5:38�pm, Peetie Wheatstraw
wrote:

Hate to have to ask about something so trivial-sounding, but ...

If I get mold/mildew on the grout in the shower, I can scrub it off
with Tilex and an old toothbrush.

Such approach doesn't work at all for m/m on the tub caulk, and I dunno why.

Any ideas?

Thx,
Peetie

use straight bleach. that kills mold dead.

Yep, Tilex is nothing but watered down, overpriced, bleach.

On Tue, 24 Jun 2008 18:37:54 -0400, Norminn wrote:

Peetie Wheatstraw wrote:

Hate to have to ask about something so trivial-sounding, but ...

If I get mold/mildew on the grout in the shower, I can scrub it off
with Tilex and an old toothbrush.

Such approach doesn't work at all for m/m on the tub caulk, and I dunno why.

Any ideas?

Thx,
Peetie


Mildew might be under the caulk. If caulk isn't concave and smoothe, it
can trap soap scum, water and
whatever else is in the shower - mildew grows in what is trapped.
Wiping with straight bleach might
get rid of the mildew, and leaving the shower open to air circulation
when not in use should help. I
recently started using Scrubbin Bubbles in our shower - much better
results with much less work
than Tilex or CLR. CLR is still very good for lime.

It is opaque white caulk that was applied around the tub top about
2 years ago. The black stuff (presumed mold/mildew) is on the
surface of the caulk.

I fairly drowned it in Clorox, scrubbed with an old toothbrush. Had
no effect at all.

Shot a few inches of it with Scrubbing Bubbles 3 times and scrubbed.
Like water off a duck's back.

Aside from mold/mildew, I dunno what it could be, but it doesn't
come off with any of the household chemicals discussed here.

Peetie

On Jun 25, 9:38 am, Peetie Wheatstraw
wrote:
On Tue, 24 Jun 2008 18:37:54 -0400, Norminn wrote:
Peetie Wheatstraw wrote:

Hate to have to ask about something so trivial-sounding, but ...

If I get mold/mildew on the grout in the shower, I can scrub it off
with Tilex and an old toothbrush.

Such approach doesn't work at all for m/m on the tub caulk, and I dunno why.

Any ideas?

Thx,
Peetie

Mildew might be under the caulk. If caulk isn't concave and smoothe, it
can trap soap scum, water and
whatever else is in the shower - mildew grows in what is trapped.
Wiping with straight bleach might
get rid of the mildew, and leaving the shower open to air circulation
when not in use should help. I
recently started using Scrubbin Bubbles in our shower - much better
results with much less work
than Tilex or CLR. CLR is still very good for lime.

It is opaque white caulk that was applied around the tub top about
2 years ago. The black stuff (presumed mold/mildew) is on the
surface of the caulk.

I fairly drowned it in Clorox, scrubbed with an old toothbrush. Had
no effect at all.

Shot a few inches of it with Scrubbing Bubbles 3 times and scrubbed.
Like water off a duck's back.

Aside from mold/mildew, I dunno what it could be, but it doesn't
come off with any of the household chemicals discussed here.

Peetie

Replace the caulk with silicone.

Peetie Wheatstraw wrote:
Hate to have to ask about something so trivial-sounding, but ...

If I get mold/mildew on the grout in the shower, I can scrub it off
with Tilex and an old toothbrush.

Such approach doesn't work at all for m/m on the tub caulk, and I dunno why.

Any ideas?

Thx,
Peetie

The ease and inexpensiveness of replacing the caulk around your tubor any
other appliance in your home makes this an easy solve.

Tools you will need: A putty knife or other tool to remove old caulk. New
caulk. A damp sponge or rag.

1. Get a putty knife or a flat head screw driver or even a butter knife and
scrape all the old caulk out. Make sure that you remove all of it off the
walls and edge of tub, so the new caulk has a clean place to adhere.
2. Spray some bleach diluted with water around the edge to kill whatever
mildew is still left, allow to air dry.
3. While waiting for the bleach to dry go to your closest hardware store and
get some tub and tile caulk, prefferably made from silicone. How much you
will need depends on the size of your tub. Most stores carry a tube that you
squeeze by hand or you can buy a caulk gun to apply the new caulk. Either
way works just fiine.
4. Once the area is COMPLETELY CLEAN AND DRY, you can begin applying the new
caulk.
this is an easy process, although it can be quite messy if not done right.
5. Begin applying the caulk making sure to squeeze some, but not too much
down in the crack between the tub and the wall. Try to use a nice even
pressure while doing this. Go all the way around the tub trying not to put
more than about a 1/4 inch bead of caulk as you go. Some areas will have a
larger gap and you will need to apply more caulk to the area.
6. For the final step some people use their finger and a damp rag, or a
sponge. You want to take your index finger and put it inside the rag kind of
like you where going to shine a shoe or something. And wipe all the way
around the tub using slight pressure and a smooth stroke. Or just wipe with
the sponge using the same pressure and stroke. This will imbed the caulk and
make a smooth professional appearance. Do not use too much pressure or the
caulk will begin to squeeze out of the area of applicatioin. Clean up any
mess with your rag. Allow to dry for the time period suggested by the
manufacturer.
7. Enjoy your clean tub.

Some stores also carry M/M resistant caulk.

Good Luck,
Mike

On Wed, 25 Jun 2008 15:26:39 GMT, "MikeMarr" u44465@uwe wrote:

Peetie Wheatstraw wrote:
Hate to have to ask about something so trivial-sounding, but ...

If I get mold/mildew on the grout in the shower, I can scrub it off
with Tilex and an old toothbrush.

Such approach doesn't work at all for m/m on the tub caulk, and I dunno why.

Any ideas?

Thx,
Peetie

The ease and inexpensiveness of replacing the caulk around your tubor any
other appliance in your home makes this an easy solve.

Sho'ly, sho'ly ...

Tools you will need: A putty knife or other tool to remove old caulk. New
caulk. A damp sponge or rag.

1. Get a putty knife or a flat head screw driver or even a butter knife and
scrape all the old caulk out. Make sure that you remove all of it off the
walls and edge of tub, so the new caulk has a clean place to adhere.
2. Spray some bleach diluted with water around the edge to kill whatever
mildew is still left, allow to air dry.
3. While waiting for the bleach to dry go to your closest hardware store and
get some tub and tile caulk, prefferably made from silicone. How much you
will need depends on the size of your tub. Most stores carry a tube that you
squeeze by hand or you can buy a caulk gun to apply the new caulk. Either
way works just fiine.
4. Once the area is COMPLETELY CLEAN AND DRY, you can begin applying the new
caulk.
this is an easy process, although it can be quite messy if not done right.
5. Begin applying the caulk making sure to squeeze some, but not too much
down in the crack between the tub and the wall. Try to use a nice even
pressure while doing this. Go all the way around the tub trying not to put
more than about a 1/4 inch bead of caulk as you go. Some areas will have a
larger gap and you will need to apply more caulk to the area.
6. For the final step some people use their finger and a damp rag, or a
sponge. You want to take your index finger and put it inside the rag kind of
like you where going to shine a shoe or something. And wipe all the way
around the tub using slight pressure and a smooth stroke. Or just wipe with
the sponge using the same pressure and stroke. This will imbed the caulk and
make a smooth professional appearance. Do not use too much pressure or the
caulk will begin to squeeze out of the area of applicatioin. Clean up any
mess with your rag. Allow to dry for the time period suggested by the
manufacturer.
7. Enjoy your clean tub.

Pert near what I did 2 years ago, except I individually tried to seal
where the caulk met the grout between the tiles, and I filled the tub
while it dried. It wasn't pretty.

It is a Royal and Monumental PITA. And I gotta bad back.

Peetie

On Jun 25, 12:03 pm, Peetie Wheatstraw
wrote:
On Wed, 25 Jun 2008 15:26:39 GMT, "MikeMarr" u44465@uwe wrote:
Peetie Wheatstraw wrote:
Hate to have to ask about something so trivial-sounding, but ...

If I get mold/mildew on the grout in the shower, I can scrub it off
with Tilex and an old toothbrush.

Such approach doesn't work at all for m/m on the tub caulk, and I dunno why.

Any ideas?

Thx,
Peetie

The ease and inexpensiveness of replacing the caulk around your tubor any
other appliance in your home makes this an easy solve.

Sho'ly, sho'ly ...



Tools you will need: A putty knife or other tool to remove old caulk. New
caulk. A damp sponge or rag.


DO NOT replace caulk with caulk, you will only have the same problem
in the near
future. Replace it with silicone NOT caulk.
Lou

On Wed, 25 Jun 2008 13:43:44 -0700 (PDT), Lou wrote:

On Jun 25, 12:03 pm, Peetie Wheatstraw
wrote:
On Wed, 25 Jun 2008 15:26:39 GMT, "MikeMarr" u44465@uwe wrote:
Peetie Wheatstraw wrote:
Hate to have to ask about something so trivial-sounding, but ...

If I get mold/mildew on the grout in the shower, I can scrub it off
with Tilex and an old toothbrush.

Such approach doesn't work at all for m/m on the tub caulk, and I dunno why.

Any ideas?

Thx,
Peetie

The ease and inexpensiveness of replacing the caulk around your tubor any
other appliance in your home makes this an easy solve.

Sho'ly, sho'ly ...



Tools you will need: A putty knife or other tool to remove old caulk. New
caulk. A damp sponge or rag.


DO NOT replace caulk with caulk, you will only have the same problem
in the near
future. Replace it with silicone NOT caulk.
Lou

Was silicone caulk that's been used for the last 2 years.

Peetie

clipped

Was silicone caulk that's been used for the last 2 years.

Peetie


Silicone caulk is the right choice.

On Jun 25, 4:43*pm, Lou wrote:
On Jun 25, 12:03 pm, Peetie Wheatstraw
wrote:



On Wed, 25 Jun 2008 15:26:39 GMT, "MikeMarr" u44465@uwe wrote:
Peetie Wheatstraw wrote:
Hate to have to ask about something so trivial-sounding, but ...

If I get mold/mildew on the grout in the shower, I can scrub it off
with Tilex and an old toothbrush.

Such approach doesn't work at all for m/m on the tub caulk, and I dunno why.

Any ideas?

Thx,
Peetie

The ease and inexpensiveness of replacing the caulk around your tubor any
other appliance in your home makes this an easy solve.

Sho'ly, sho'ly ...

Tools you will need: *A putty knife or other tool to remove old caulk. *New
caulk. *A damp sponge or rag.

DO NOT replace caulk with caulk, you will only have the same problem
in the near
future. Replace it with silicone NOT caulk.
* * * * * Lou

Silicone, IS, caulk.

clipped


Silicone, IS, caulk.


Unless it is breast implants, disposable gloves, catheters,
lubricant...........)

"Norminn" wrote in message
m...
clipped

Was silicone caulk that's been used for the last 2 years.

Peetie

Silicone caulk is the right choice.

Make sure the caulk is marked mold and mildue resistant.

On Jun 25, 9:05 pm, Norminn wrote:
clipped



Silicone, IS, caulk.

Silicone and caulk are two different things.
Anyone who thinks silicone and caulk are
the same need to wake up and learn something.
If you replace the crap in your bathroom with
the same crap, you will have the problems.
Lou

On Jun 25, 9:49*pm, Peetie Wheatstraw
wrote:
On Wed, 25 Jun 2008 13:43:44 -0700 (PDT), Lou wrote:
On Jun 25, 12:03 pm, Peetie Wheatstraw
wrote:
On Wed, 25 Jun 2008 15:26:39 GMT, "MikeMarr" u44465@uwe wrote:
Peetie Wheatstraw wrote:
Hate to have to ask about something so trivial-sounding, but ...

If I get mold/mildew on the grout in the shower, I can scrub it off
with Tilex and an old toothbrush.

Such approach doesn't work at all for m/m on the tub caulk, and I dunno why.

Any ideas?

Thx,
Peetie

The ease and inexpensiveness of replacing the caulk around your tubor any
other appliance in your home makes this an easy solve.

Sho'ly, sho'ly ...

Tools you will need: *A putty knife or other tool to remove old caulk. *New
caulk. *A damp sponge or rag.

DO NOT replace caulk with caulk, you will only have the same problem
in the near
future. Replace it with silicone NOT caulk.
* * * * *Lou

Was silicone caulk that's been used for the last 2 years.

Peetie- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Insufficient ventilation?
Area needs to be warmer and dryer?

On Jun 26, 7:06*am, Lou wrote:
On Jun 25, 9:05 pm, Norminn wrote: clipped

Silicone, IS, caulk.

Silicone and caulk are two different things.
Anyone who thinks silicone and caulk are
the same need to wake up and learn something.
If you replace the crap in your bathroom with
the same crap, you will have the problems.
* * * * * Lou

OK, if you say so.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...ppcaulk.html#2

On Thu, 26 Jun 2008 05:42:15 -0700 (PDT), terry wrote:

Was silicone caulk that's been used for the last 2 years.

Peetie- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Insufficient ventilation?
Area needs to be warmer and dryer?

Door stays open 99.99% of the time.

No problem elsewhere in house, including kitchen. Standard
forced-air HVAC.

P

On Wed, 25 Jun 2008 15:26:39 GMT, "MikeMarr" u44465@uwe wrote:

5. Begin applying the caulk making sure to squeeze some, but not too much
down in the crack between the tub and the wall. Try to use a nice even
pressure while doing this. Go all the way around the tub trying not to put
more than about a 1/4 inch bead of caulk as you go. Some areas will have a
larger gap and you will need to apply more caulk to the area.
6. For the final step some people use their finger and a damp rag, or a
sponge. You want to take your index finger and put it inside the rag kind of
like you where going to shine a shoe or something. And wipe all the way
around the tub using slight pressure and a smooth stroke. Or just wipe with
the sponge using the same pressure and stroke. This will imbed the caulk and
make a smooth professional appearance. Do not use too much pressure or the
caulk will begin to squeeze out of the area of applicatioin. Clean up any
mess with your rag. Allow to dry for the time period suggested by the
manufacturer.

This whole process is very clear, but what I do BEFORE starting Step 5
if I'm feeling anal about having a straight caulk line is to lay down
masking or painter's tape right about where I'd like the line to be.
Then after Step 6, pull up the tape, and voila, a nice neat caulk job.

"KLS" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 25 Jun 2008 15:26:39 GMT, "MikeMarr" u44465@uwe wrote:

5. Begin applying the caulk making sure to squeeze some, but not too much
down in the crack between the tub and the wall. Try to use a nice even
pressure while doing this. Go all the way around the tub trying not to
put
more than about a 1/4 inch bead of caulk as you go. Some areas will have
a
larger gap and you will need to apply more caulk to the area.
6. For the final step some people use their finger and a damp rag, or a
sponge. You want to take your index finger and put it inside the rag kind
of
like you where going to shine a shoe or something. And wipe all the way
around the tub using slight pressure and a smooth stroke. Or just wipe
with
the sponge using the same pressure and stroke. This will imbed the caulk
and
make a smooth professional appearance. Do not use too much pressure or
the
caulk will begin to squeeze out of the area of applicatioin. Clean up any
mess with your rag. Allow to dry for the time period suggested by the
manufacturer.

This whole process is very clear, but what I do BEFORE starting Step 5
if I'm feeling anal about having a straight caulk line is to lay down
masking or painter's tape right about where I'd like the line to be.
Then after Step 6, pull up the tape, and voila, a nice neat caulk job.

It sounds odd, but I get the best caulk results by using a battery-powered
caulking gun. Application is very smooth and it stops immediately when you
release the trigger. It's both faster and neater than a manual gun, and
pros in this area are starting to use the same thing. Mine is an
inexpensive Ryobi gun from HD, uses 18v batteries that also power some of my
other Ryobi cordless tools. I don't think much of most of the 18v Ryobi
stuff, but this one is a winner.

"JimR" wrote in message
m...

"KLS" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 25 Jun 2008 15:26:39 GMT, "MikeMarr" u44465@uwe wrote:

5. Begin applying the caulk making sure to squeeze some, but not too
much
down in the crack between the tub and the wall. Try to use a nice even
pressure while doing this. Go all the way around the tub trying not to
put
more than about a 1/4 inch bead of caulk as you go. Some areas will have
a
larger gap and you will need to apply more caulk to the area.
6. For the final step some people use their finger and a damp rag, or a
sponge. You want to take your index finger and put it inside the rag
kind of
like you where going to shine a shoe or something. And wipe all the way
around the tub using slight pressure and a smooth stroke. Or just wipe
with
the sponge using the same pressure and stroke. This will imbed the caulk
and
make a smooth professional appearance. Do not use too much pressure or
the
caulk will begin to squeeze out of the area of applicatioin. Clean up
any
mess with your rag. Allow to dry for the time period suggested by the
manufacturer.

This whole process is very clear, but what I do BEFORE starting Step 5
if I'm feeling anal about having a straight caulk line is to lay down
masking or painter's tape right about where I'd like the line to be.
Then after Step 6, pull up the tape, and voila, a nice neat caulk job.

It sounds odd, but I get the best caulk results by using a battery-powered
caulking gun. Application is very smooth and it stops immediately when
you release the trigger. It's both faster and neater than a manual gun,
and pros in this area are starting to use the same thing. Mine is an
inexpensive Ryobi gun from HD, uses 18v batteries that also power some of
my other Ryobi cordless tools. I don't think much of most of the 18v
Ryobi stuff, but this one is a winner.


I bought the Ryobi 18v drill mainly of pretty good ratings from Consumer
Reports and have been happy with it. What don't you like about it?

KLS wrote:

On Wed, 25 Jun 2008 15:26:39 GMT, "MikeMarr" u44465@uwe wrote:



5. Begin applying the caulk making sure to squeeze some, but not too much
down in the crack between the tub and the wall. Try to use a nice even
pressure while doing this. Go all the way around the tub trying not to put
more than about a 1/4 inch bead of caulk as you go. Some areas will have a
larger gap and you will need to apply more caulk to the area.
6. For the final step some people use their finger and a damp rag, or a
sponge. You want to take your index finger and put it inside the rag kind of
like you where going to shine a shoe or something. And wipe all the way
around the tub using slight pressure and a smooth stroke. Or just wipe with
the sponge using the same pressure and stroke. This will imbed the caulk and
make a smooth professional appearance. Do not use too much pressure or the
caulk will begin to squeeze out of the area of applicatioin. Clean up any
mess with your rag. Allow to dry for the time period suggested by the
manufacturer.



This whole process is very clear, but what I do BEFORE starting Step 5
if I'm feeling anal about having a straight caulk line is to lay down
masking or painter's tape right about where I'd like the line to be.
Then after Step 6, pull up the tape, and voila, a nice neat caulk job.


Painter's tape works for me. There is no need to try to fill space in
or behind the wall. Caulk is to bridge
the gap and seal it off. If you are new to caulking, you might want to
practice. I cut the tip so it is open perhaps
1/8". You want the finished caulk bead to be - in cross section - like
a cove molding.....smoothe and concave
so it doesn't trap water or soap scum. Put down your painters tape so
it is perfectly straight and so that the
outside of the caulk tip rides right on the edges of the tape - then
when you push the caulk gun forward, slowly,
the tip of the tube forms the "cove" and extra is pushed onto the tape.
I've redone caulking when I wasn't
pleased the first time. Nothing better than spit on yer finger for
smoothing it ) Keep damp rags handy.

Vital to have the surfaces perfectly clean of grease and soap scum, and
a wipe with full-strength bleach
before putting on the caulk.

I made the mistake of filling in a gap with caulk once and ended up with
water and caulk running down
the outside of the tub/shower enclosure. More is not always better. If
the gap between wall and tub is
greater than 1/4", you need to get backer rod (foam) to fill the space
behind the caulk.

"J.H. Holliday" doc@okcorral wrote in message
...
"JimR" wrote in message
m...

[snip]

I bought the Ryobi 18v drill mainly of pretty good ratings from Consumer
Reports and have been happy with it. What don't you like about it?
Battery life -- both in terms of operating hours and how quickly they lose
their charge when not in use. I "splurged" on a Ridgid 18V set (drill,
recip saw, circular saw, flashlight) and discovered a major difference. The
Ridgid always seems to be charged up, even if I haven't used it for a month
or more, when the Ryobi would be flat. Plus I get a lifetime warranty and
free replacement on the Ridgid batteries. The Ridgid is noticeably
heavier -- not necessarily a good thing, but seems well balanced and the
circular saw does everything I ask of it.

I also had a Craftsman 18V kit, and found the batteries didn't last long,
were expensive to replace, and that Craftsman had more than one style of 18V
battery -- the replacement style I needed never seemed to be in stock.

Lou wrote:
clipped

Silicone, IS, caulk.

Silicone and caulk are two different things.
Anyone who thinks silicone and caulk are
the same need to wake up and learn something.
If you replace the crap in your bathroom with
the same crap, you will have the problems.
Lou

Where did you learn this? Silicone is a type of caulk, period. Go learn
something yourself before you make comments like this.

--
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