"JimR" wrote in message
m...

"KLS" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 25 Jun 2008 15:26:39 GMT, "MikeMarr" u44465@uwe wrote:

5. Begin applying the caulk making sure to squeeze some, but not too
much
down in the crack between the tub and the wall. Try to use a nice even
pressure while doing this. Go all the way around the tub trying not to
put
more than about a 1/4 inch bead of caulk as you go. Some areas will have
a
larger gap and you will need to apply more caulk to the area.
6. For the final step some people use their finger and a damp rag, or a
sponge. You want to take your index finger and put it inside the rag
kind of
like you where going to shine a shoe or something. And wipe all the way
around the tub using slight pressure and a smooth stroke. Or just wipe
with
the sponge using the same pressure and stroke. This will imbed the caulk
and
make a smooth professional appearance. Do not use too much pressure or
the
caulk will begin to squeeze out of the area of applicatioin. Clean up
any
mess with your rag. Allow to dry for the time period suggested by the
manufacturer.

This whole process is very clear, but what I do BEFORE starting Step 5
if I'm feeling anal about having a straight caulk line is to lay down
masking or painter's tape right about where I'd like the line to be.
Then after Step 6, pull up the tape, and voila, a nice neat caulk job.

It sounds odd, but I get the best caulk results by using a battery-powered
caulking gun. Application is very smooth and it stops immediately when
you release the trigger. It's both faster and neater than a manual gun,
and pros in this area are starting to use the same thing. Mine is an
inexpensive Ryobi gun from HD, uses 18v batteries that also power some of
my other Ryobi cordless tools. I don't think much of most of the 18v
Ryobi stuff, but this one is a winner.


I bought the Ryobi 18v drill mainly of pretty good ratings from Consumer
Reports and have been happy with it. What don't you like about it?