I have to install a dryer outlet in a garage where it has unfinished
sheetrock. I purchased a surface mount outlet similiar to this one:
http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(x1...aspx?SKU=33287

It came with 2 half moon clamps for the wire, and the instructions say
for wall mounting, put the clamp on the bottom knockout. For floor
mounting, use the knockout on the back.

This would mean that I would have to come out of the sheetrock with
the wire, then turn up 90 deg to the outlet. Is this right? Is there
any reason why i cant use the rear knockout so I can come inside the
sheetrock and through the rear knockout?

Mikepier wrote:
I have to install a dryer outlet in a garage where it has unfinished
sheetrock. I purchased a surface mount outlet similiar to this one:
http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(x1...aspx?SKU=33287

It came with 2 half moon clamps for the wire, and the instructions say
for wall mounting, put the clamp on the bottom knockout. For floor
mounting, use the knockout on the back.

This would mean that I would have to come out of the sheetrock with
the wire, then turn up 90 deg to the outlet. Is this right? Is there
any reason why i cant use the rear knockout so I can come inside the
sheetrock and through the rear knockout?

Use back or bottom whatever makes sense.
Why the surface mount?
How are you going to mount to the sheetrock?
I guess you could slap up a 1x6" board or something spanning a couple of
studs and mount the outlet to that, but why not cut a hole for a box and
use a box mount outlet and cover plate instead of the surface mount?

Kevin

"Mikepier" wrote in message
...
I have to install a dryer outlet in a garage where it has unfinished
sheetrock. I purchased a surface mount outlet similiar to this one:
http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(x1...aspx?SKU=33287

It came with 2 half moon clamps for the wire, and the instructions say
for wall mounting, put the clamp on the bottom knockout. For floor
mounting, use the knockout on the back.

This would mean that I would have to come out of the sheetrock with
the wire, then turn up 90 deg to the outlet. Is this right? Is there
any reason why i cant use the rear knockout so I can come inside the
sheetrock and through the rear knockout?



No, but you should try and get one edge of the receptacle over a wood stud
so that you can mount it securely. The larger size outlets don't always
hold up well when they are only fastened to the drywall.

Another way to go is with a 4" x 2 1/8" square box with a surface cover and
dryer receptacle. This would enable you to get part of the box over the
stud and still have space to enter into the back.

That's what I was going to try and do, grab a stud from one side of
the outlet, but I don't know if the clamp in the rear will get in the
way. I can test it on a piece of wood and see if it will work. I guess
I could get a square box and surface mount that, or do Kevin's
suggestion and cut a box in.I just thought this dryer outlet seemed
the easiest and painless.

I managed to find a box that steel box that measures 3 3/4" X 2" deep.
This looks the same as regular 1900 box but deeper. Would this work
with a dryer outlet?

"Mikepier" wrote in message
...
I managed to find a box that steel box that measures 3 3/4" X 2" deep.
This looks the same as regular 1900 box but deeper. Would this work
with a dryer outlet?


For a dryer outlet you should use a two gang box. 2" deep is barely enough
room for the receptacle, but you also need a certain amount of cubic inches
for your conductors. Use 2-3.5" deep gem boxes ganged together if you want
to go flush mount. Cut the hole next to a stud. Drill two holes in the
side of the box. Use Madison bars to secure the box then shoot two screws
through your drilled holes into the stud.

Are you using 10/3 copper romex or #8 aluminum?

On Tue, 24 Jun 2008 06:30:22 -0700, Mikepier wrote:

I have to install a dryer outlet in a garage where it has unfinished
sheetrock. I purchased a surface mount outlet similiar to this one:
http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(x1...3v55a03mi255)/
ProductDetails.aspx?SKU=33287

It came with 2 half moon clamps for the wire, and the instructions say
for wall mounting, put the clamp on the bottom knockout. For floor
mounting, use the knockout on the back.

This would mean that I would have to come out of the sheetrock with the
wire, then turn up 90 deg to the outlet. Is this right? Is there any
reason why i cant use the rear knockout so I can come inside the
sheetrock and through the rear knockout?



Whichever knockout you decide to use, make sure you can firmly clamp the
wires at the point they enter the receptacle. I came across one install
where the wires were not attached properly.

--

=================================================
Franz Fripplfrappl

On Jun 24, 1:54*pm, "John Grabowski" wrote:
"Mikepier" wrote in message

...

I managed to find a box that steel box that measures 3 3/4" X 2" deep.
This looks the same as regular 1900 box but deeper. *Would this work
with a dryer outlet?

For a dryer outlet you should use a two gang box. *2" deep is barely enough
room for the receptacle, but you also need a certain amount of cubic inches
for your conductors. *Use 2-3.5" deep gem boxes ganged together if you want
to go flush mount. *Cut the hole next to a stud. *Drill two holes in the
side of the box. *Use Madison bars to secure the box then shoot two screws
through your drilled holes into the stud.

Are you using 10/3 copper romex or #8 aluminum?

Yes, 10/3 w/ ground romex

For a dryer outlet you should use a two gang box. *2" deep is barely enough
room for the receptacle, but you also need a certain amount of cubic inches
for your conductors.

The box is 2", but doesn't the raised cover plate for the receptacle
give you an additional 1" or so?

"Mikepier" wrote in message
...
For a dryer outlet you should use a two gang box. 2" deep is barely enough
room for the receptacle, but you also need a certain amount of cubic
inches
for your conductors.

The box is 2", but doesn't the raised cover plate for the receptacle
give you an additional 1" or so?



I'm not sure what kind of box you have, but you need at least 2.50 cubic
inches for each conductor. For the dryer outlet you will need the
equivalent of 4 conductors. Therefore 8 x 2.50 = 20 cubic inches are needed
as a minimum for this installation. A raised cover does add some cubic inch
capacity. With those number ten wires a little extra room will make it
easier to push the outlet into the box.

Well, I was at Lowes this morning, and I looked at a regular dryer
receptacle, and some plastic old work boxes. They had a single gang
deep box I think it was about 20 cu in, and a double gang deep box
which was 34 cu in. The receptacle fit inside the single gang, but I
purchased both just in case. The retaining clips on these boxes look
strong, so it should be OK. Plus I'll try to throw a screw into the
stud.
This dryer is actually being installed in my vacation home in the
mountains 170 miles away, and the nearest hardware store is 15 miles
away, so I'm taking up whatever I think I need. I can always retuen
what I don't use.
Thanks for everyones help.