I have purchased 5 of these programmable thermostats for my home to
replace the older chromalox dial types. the heating is 240v in
ceiling radiant and the original stats are 4 wire where the new
honeywells are 2. I have followed the instructions for installing to
a 4 wire system and am getting power to the stat and heaters.. the
problem is the heater will not cut out. if i turn it down all the
way to 5 deg the lead going to the heater is still showing the same
voltage and the heater stays on.. I even tried swapping out a diff
unit and the same thing.. I wired it as instructed.. one of the 120
v leads get tied off to the lead in to the heater stays "hot or live"
then the other 120v to a lead on the new stat and the other to the
other lead on the heater. This is supposed to work with the stat
cutting out the full voltage when needed. but the unit keeps the 120
constant( tested with multimeter)

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated

Bruce

On May 27, 6:21*am, millerlight wrote:
I have purchased 5 of these programmable thermostats for my home to
replace the older chromalox dial types. * the heating is 240v in
ceiling radiant and the original stats are 4 wire where the new
honeywells are 2. * I have followed the instructions for installing to
a 4 wire system and am getting power to the stat and heaters.. *the
problem is the heater will not cut out. * if i turn it down all the
way to 5 deg the lead going to the heater is still showing the same
voltage and the heater stays on.. * I even tried swapping out a diff
unit and the same thing.. * I wired it as instructed.. *one of the 120
v leads get tied off to the lead in to the heater stays "hot or live"
then the other 120v to a lead on the new stat and the other to the
other lead on the heater. *This is supposed to work with the stat
cutting out the full voltage when needed. *but the unit keeps the 120
constant( tested with multimeter)

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated

Bruce

Have you checked the test stat off line? Your description sounds like
the contacts are welded shut. Line voltage thermostats are usually
simple things so cycling through the range with your meter attached
should show definite off-on readings. If the mystery continues, call
Honeywell customer service for advice.

Joe

"Joe" wrote in message
...
On May 27, 6:21 am, millerlight wrote:
I have purchased 5 of these programmable thermostats for my home to
replace the older chromalox dial types. the heating is 240v in
ceiling radiant and the original stats are 4 wire where the new
honeywells are 2. I have followed the instructions for installing to
a 4 wire system and am getting power to the stat and heaters.. the
problem is the heater will not cut out. if i turn it down all the
way to 5 deg the lead going to the heater is still showing the same
voltage and the heater stays on.. I even tried swapping out a diff
unit and the same thing.. I wired it as instructed.. one of the 120
v leads get tied off to the lead in to the heater stays "hot or live"
then the other 120v to a lead on the new stat and the other to the
other lead on the heater. This is supposed to work with the stat
cutting out the full voltage when needed. but the unit keeps the 120
constant( tested with multimeter)

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated

Bruce

Have you checked the test stat off line? Your description sounds like
the contacts are welded shut. Line voltage thermostats are usually
simple things so cycling through the range with your meter attached
should show definite off-on readings. If the mystery continues, call
Honeywell customer service for advice.

Joe

Is it possible that you are reversing the line and load wires that are
connected to the stat?

On May 27, 8:40 pm, "RBM" wrote:
"Joe" wrote in message

...
On May 27, 6:21 am, millerlight wrote:



I have purchased 5 of these programmable thermostats for my home to
replace the older chromalox dial types. the heating is 240v in
ceiling radiant and the original stats are 4 wire where the new
honeywells are 2. I have followed the instructions for installing to
a 4 wire system and am getting power to the stat and heaters.. the
problem is the heater will not cut out. if i turn it down all the
way to 5 deg the lead going to the heater is still showing the same
voltage and the heater stays on.. I even tried swapping out a diff
unit and the same thing.. I wired it as instructed.. one of the 120
v leads get tied off to the lead in to the heater stays "hot or live"
then the other 120v to a lead on the new stat and the other to the
other lead on the heater. This is supposed to work with the stat
cutting out the full voltage when needed. but the unit keeps the 120
constant( tested with multimeter)

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated

Bruce

Have you checked the test stat off line? Your description sounds like
the contacts are welded shut. Line voltage thermostats are usually
simple things so cycling through the range with your meter attached
should show definite off-on readings. If the mystery continues, call
Honeywell customer service for advice.

Joe

Is it possible that you are reversing the line and load wires that are
connected to the stat?

there are no indicators as to line and load on the new stat.. Just 2
black wires.. I tested continuity and one is closed and the other
open, however i get the same results.. always on when hooked up.

On May 30, 7:20*am, millerlight wrote:

snip

there are no indicators as to line and load on the new stat.. * Just 2
black wires.. * *I tested continuity and one is closed and the other
open, however i get the same results.. *always on when hooked up.

Can you be more specific about your test? With only 2 wires you have
continuity between the pair, right? That says the contacts are closed.
Now if you change the stat setting the contacts will show open,
correct? That shows the contacts open properly. The stat is in series
with one input line to the heater, if like most conventional units. it
is operating as a single pole, single throw switch and there is always
voltage (to ground if you're testing) at the heater terminals. HTH

Joe

On May 30, 9:34*pm, millerlight wrote:


dumb it down for me? *I'm not an electrician... *have some knowledge
and can read diagrams..line and load throws me off

What I described was a simple test for stat function. Without circuit
diagrams/instructions for old and new systems further speculation
won't be very useful. Mzaaybe someone in the NG has dealt with an
identical system successfully, which would be the info you need. Good
luck.

Joe