I am inheriting a very good condition 1960's Buick convertible. I have a
two car detached garage already waiting to be the car's new home, but
the garage is not heated or climate controlled. It is a 1940's frame
garage with asphalt shingle roof with stud walls and a poured cement
floor. It is already wired for electricity with lights and outlets.
Overall the garage is in very good condition, but I do notice that is is
somewhat damp inside and this concerns me for maintaining the car in a
good condition in a relatively dry storage environment.

My question is what will need to be done to such a building so that I
can keep the car in it in a relatively controlled environment? I assume
the walls need to be lined with a tyvex type sealer, and insulation
added in the walls and in the eaves? In addition, currently there is no
ventilation at the roofline which I think will need to be addressed.

Finally, any suggestions for heating source? I assume the temp just
needs to stay at 50 or above in the winter.

Thank you in advance for any suggestions.

On May 25, 5:45*am, Rob wrote:
I am inheriting a very good condition 1960's Buick convertible. I have a
two car detached garage already waiting to be the car's new home, but
the garage is not heated or climate controlled. It is a 1940's frame
garage with asphalt shingle roof with stud walls and a poured cement
floor. It is already wired for electricity with lights and outlets.
Overall the garage is in very good condition, but I do notice that is is
somewhat damp inside and this concerns me for maintaining the car in a
good condition in a relatively dry storage environment.

My question is what will need to be done to such a building so that I
can keep the car in it in a relatively controlled environment? I assume
the walls need to be lined with a tyvex type sealer, and insulation
added *in the walls and in the eaves? In addition, currently there is no
ventilation at the roofline which I think will need to be addressed.

Finally, any suggestions for heating source? I assume the temp just
needs to stay at 50 or above in the winter.

Thank you in advance for any suggestions.

You dont need a warm temp just a lower humidity in spring and summer
but even that might not be an issue it hasnt been for old cars I have
had.

ransley wrote:
On May 25, 5:45 am, Rob wrote:
I am inheriting a very good condition 1960's Buick convertible. I have a
two car detached garage already waiting to be the car's new home, but
the garage is not heated or climate controlled. It is a 1940's frame
garage with asphalt shingle roof with stud walls and a poured cement
floor. It is already wired for electricity with lights and outlets.
Overall the garage is in very good condition, but I do notice that is is
somewhat damp inside and this concerns me for maintaining the car in a
good condition in a relatively dry storage environment.

My question is what will need to be done to such a building so that I
can keep the car in it in a relatively controlled environment? I assume
the walls need to be lined with a tyvex type sealer, and insulation
added in the walls and in the eaves? In addition, currently there is no
ventilation at the roofline which I think will need to be addressed.

Finally, any suggestions for heating source? I assume the temp just
needs to stay at 50 or above in the winter.

Thank you in advance for any suggestions.

You dont need a warm temp just a lower humidity in spring and summer
but even that might not be an issue it hasnt been for old cars I have
had.

Thanks for the response!

On May 25, 6:45*am, Rob wrote:
I am inheriting a very good condition 1960's Buick convertible. I have a
two car detached garage already waiting to be the car's new home, but
the garage is not heated or climate controlled. It is a 1940's frame
garage with asphalt shingle roof with stud walls and a poured cement
floor. It is already wired for electricity with lights and outlets.
Overall the garage is in very good condition, but I do notice that is is
somewhat damp inside and this concerns me for maintaining the car in a
good condition in a relatively dry storage environment.

My question is what will need to be done to such a building so that I
can keep the car in it in a relatively controlled environment? I assume
the walls need to be lined with a tyvex type sealer, and insulation
added *in the walls and in the eaves? In addition, currently there is no
ventilation at the roofline which I think will need to be addressed.

Finally, any suggestions for heating source? I assume the temp just
needs to stay at 50 or above in the winter.

Thank you in advance for any suggestions.

If the dampness is on the slab surface, it may be the result of warm,
moist air condensing on a cold slab.
I do not think the walls need to be 'sealed'. Insulation at the roof
would help most. How that is accomplished depends on your climate.

T

On May 25, 5:45*am, Rob wrote:
I am inheriting a very good condition 1960's Buick convertible. I have a
two car detached garage already waiting to be the car's new home, but
the garage is not heated or climate controlled. It is a 1940's frame
garage with asphalt shingle roof with stud walls and a poured cement
floor. It is already wired for electricity with lights and outlets.
Overall the garage is in very good condition, but I do notice that is is
somewhat damp inside and this concerns me for maintaining the car in a
good condition in a relatively dry storage environment.

My question is what will need to be done to such a building so that I
can keep the car in it in a relatively controlled environment? I assume
the walls need to be lined with a tyvex type sealer, and insulation
added *in the walls and in the eaves? In addition, currently there is no
ventilation at the roofline which I think will need to be addressed.

Finally, any suggestions for heating source? I assume the temp just
needs to stay at 50 or above in the winter.

Thank you in advance for any suggestions.

I has a 54 Buick stored , the only thing I noticed in an unheated
humid garage was exhaust system rust, I think the concrete was always
damp, maybe putting a sheet of thick plastic under the car would have
helped a dehumidifier would be good but get one that doesnt freeze at
68f, it isnt the temp that kills metal its moisture in the air.

wrote:
On May 25, 6:45 am, Rob wrote:


If the dampness is on the slab surface, it may be the result of warm,
moist air condensing on a cold slab.
I do not think the walls need to be 'sealed'. Insulation at the roof
would help most. How that is accomplished depends on your climate.

T

Thanks for the info! The dampness on the slab floor is from condensation.

Rob

"Rob" wrote in message
...
I am inheriting a very good condition 1960's Buick convertible. I have a
two car detached garage already waiting to be the car's new home, but the
garage is not heated or climate controlled. It is a 1940's frame garage
with asphalt shingle roof with stud walls and a poured cement floor. It is
already wired for electricity with lights and outlets. Overall the garage
is in very good condition, but I do notice that is is somewhat damp inside
and this concerns me for maintaining the car in a good condition in a
relatively dry storage environment.





Cars last longer in unheated garages, or at least cars that are daily
drivers do. So there's one thing you probably don't need to worry about.
Just buy some plug-in dehumidifier (if you can find one big enough for the
room) and have a hose drain the water to someplace outside. Considering
that it's a convertible, humidity is probably your #1 concern.

Or, sell the car! ;-)

Bob M. wrote:
....
Cars last longer in unheated garages, or at least cars that are daily
drivers do. ...

Why would that be so? In that case, it seems museums shouldn't worry so
much about climate control...

I agree excessive moisture could be problematical and I also would
presume there are sites for auto enthusiasts which have specific
recommendations for storage conditions.

--

dpb wrote:
Bob M. wrote:
...

Cars last longer in unheated garages, or at least cars that are daily
drivers do. ...


Why would that be so? In that case, it seems museums shouldn't worry so
much about climate control...

I agree excessive moisture could be problematical and I also would
presume there are sites for auto enthusiasts which have specific
recommendations for storage conditions.

--
Hmmm,
Cars in the museum is not driven daily in all weather conditions.

Tony Hwang wrote:
dpb wrote:
Bob M. wrote:
...

Cars last longer in unheated garages, or at least cars that are daily
drivers do. ...


Why would that be so? In that case, it seems museums shouldn't worry
so much about climate control...

I agree excessive moisture could be problematical and I also would
presume there are sites for auto enthusiasts which have specific
recommendations for storage conditions.

--
Hmmm,
Cars in the museum is not driven daily in all weather conditions.

Nor is OP's collector convertible, it is to be presumed...

That notwithstanding, I fail to see why even a routinely driven
automobile would fare better in a non-climate-controlled storage space
than not...

--

dpb wrote:
Tony Hwang wrote:
dpb wrote:
Bob M. wrote:
...

Cars last longer in unheated garages, or at least cars that are
daily drivers do. ...


Why would that be so? In that case, it seems museums shouldn't worry
so much about climate control...

I agree excessive moisture could be problematical and I also would
presume there are sites for auto enthusiasts which have specific
recommendations for storage conditions.

--
Hmmm,
Cars in the museum is not driven daily in all weather conditions.

Nor is OP's collector convertible, it is to be presumed...

That notwithstanding, I fail to see why even a routinely driven
automobile would fare better in a non-climate-controlled storage space
than not...

--

Mainly true in snow-salt country. Car has snow and salt on it, and
storing in a heated garage allows the snow and salt more chances to melt
and run into crevices, allowing more chance for rot to develop. Rust
slows down in cold weather. All in all, it is better to keep the car as
cold as you can all winter, then wash the heck out of it on the day the
weather changes, to minimize the exposure of the various parts to a
constant salt bath. Rule of thumb- if it is wet, rust is taking place.
Same reason car covers are advertised as 'breathable', so condensation
won't build up with humidity and temp swings.

If you wanna pass it down to your kids, you store it in a dry sealed
container. You only drive it on warm sunny days. Rust is inevitable- at
best you can slow it down for a few years.

--
aem sends....

aemeijers wrote:
dpb wrote:
Tony Hwang wrote:
dpb wrote:
Bob M. wrote:
...

Cars last longer in unheated garages, or at least cars that are
daily drivers do. ...


Why would that be so? In that case, it seems museums shouldn't
worry so much about climate control...

I agree excessive moisture could be problematical and I also would
presume there are sites for auto enthusiasts which have specific
recommendations for storage conditions.

--
Hmmm,
Cars in the museum is not driven daily in all weather conditions.

Nor is OP's collector convertible, it is to be presumed...

That notwithstanding, I fail to see why even a routinely driven
automobile would fare better in a non-climate-controlled storage space
than not...

--

Mainly true in snow-salt country. Car has snow and salt on it, and
storing in a heated garage allows the snow and salt more chances to melt
and run into crevices, allowing more chance for rot to develop. Rust
slows down in cold weather. All in all, it is better to keep the car as
cold as you can all winter, then wash the heck out of it on the day the
weather changes, to minimize the exposure of the various parts to a
constant salt bath. Rule of thumb- if it is wet, rust is taking place.
Same reason car covers are advertised as 'breathable', so condensation
won't build up with humidity and temp swings.

If you wanna pass it down to your kids, you store it in a dry sealed
container. You only drive it on warm sunny days. Rust is inevitable- at
best you can slow it down for a few years.

--
aem sends....

This car will not be a daily driver. This is a convertible that will
used occasionally on sunny weekend days in the spring, summer and fall.
I do not plan on driving it it on rainy days, or in the winter when
there is salt on the road.

Rob

aemeijers wrote:
dpb wrote:

Tony Hwang wrote:

dpb wrote:

Bob M. wrote:
...

Cars last longer in unheated garages, or at least cars that are
daily drivers do. ...



Why would that be so? In that case, it seems museums shouldn't
worry so much about climate control...

I agree excessive moisture could be problematical and I also would
presume there are sites for auto enthusiasts which have specific
recommendations for storage conditions.

--

Hmmm,
Cars in the museum is not driven daily in all weather conditions.


Nor is OP's collector convertible, it is to be presumed...

That notwithstanding, I fail to see why even a routinely driven
automobile would fare better in a non-climate-controlled storage space
than not...

--


Mainly true in snow-salt country. Car has snow and salt on it, and
storing in a heated garage allows the snow and salt more chances to melt
and run into crevices, allowing more chance for rot to develop. Rust
slows down in cold weather. All in all, it is better to keep the car as
cold as you can all winter, then wash the heck out of it on the day the
weather changes, to minimize the exposure of the various parts to a
constant salt bath. Rule of thumb- if it is wet, rust is taking place.
Same reason car covers are advertised as 'breathable', so condensation
won't build up with humidity and temp swings.

If you wanna pass it down to your kids, you store it in a dry sealed
container. You only drive it on warm sunny days. Rust is inevitable- at
best you can slow it down for a few years.

--
aem sends....
Hi,
Yes. I live in COLD Northern climate.

On May 25, 5:45*am, Rob wrote:

snip.

Finally, any suggestions for heating source? I assume the temp just
needs to stay at 50 or above in the winter.


After you tidy up the garage isulation, etc., install a Modine
"HotDawg" heater. Set at 55 degrees or so, it will keep the concrete
warm enough to avoid the condensation common to unheated spaces. I
have the 45K BTU model in my 26 x 26 garage (Illinois) and it does the
job nicely. Similar installation can e found in "climate controlled"
self storage units. HTH

Joe