Hi,

I was hopeing some of you could shed personal opinion on my decision
to buy either stop or ball valves for the below detailed purpose.

I have/had several previously installed sillcocks in our house that
have no shutoff valves ahead of them. One of them froze and burst
last year so I went out and grabbed the first water flow control
valves I could find at the HW store, unfortunately they are gate
valves, and by design they leak somewhat in fully closed position.

Now I want to replace them with something that will work 100%. Here's
the quandry:

With a rubber sealed type stop valve I could take out the mechanism
and repair it for many years to come, but in theory they restrict flow
somewhat.

With a Ball valve, they don't restrict flow as much, but are not
serviceable (the ones I've seen) short of desolder/replace. Added
bonus is the 1/4 turn ease.

The application is outdoor water faucets, where I run 75 foot hoses on
each one, and in some cases 150 ft for short term use.

Do you think that the extra restriction of a stop valve would amount
to anything significant or noticeable? Right now water supply at the
hose(s) is adequate. Serviceability and restriction are my two
highest priorities.

Thanks for your help.

In article , (Comboverfish) writes:
| Hi,
|
| I was hopeing some of you could shed personal opinion on my decision
| to buy either stop or ball valves for the below detailed purpose.
|
| I have/had several previously installed sillcocks in our house that
| have no shutoff valves ahead of them. One of them froze and burst
| last year so I went out and grabbed the first water flow control
| valves I could find at the HW store, unfortunately they are gate
| valves, and by design they leak somewhat in fully closed position.

Interesting. I didn't realize this.

| Now I want to replace them with something that will work 100%. Here's
| the quandry:
|
| With a rubber sealed type stop valve I could take out the mechanism
| and repair it for many years to come, but in theory they restrict flow
| somewhat.

You could always step up a size. I use 3/4" globe valves for nominally
1/2" sillcocks.

| With a Ball valve, they don't restrict flow as much, but are not
| serviceable (the ones I've seen) short of desolder/replace. Added
| bonus is the 1/4 turn ease.

Take a look at Apollo/Conbraco Pipe Master ball valves. They have in
effect a union on each end so you can replace the body. (I'm sure
that wasn't their main goal, but it's a nice side effect.) I was really
down on ball valves since most of those (professionally) installed in
my house a few years ago have failed, generally in the sense that they
no longer shut off fully. At least with Pipe Master replacement isn't
such a pain.

Two issues with Pipe Master (other than high price): they don't have
drain ports and while they all claim to be full-port the 1/2" model
doesn't look it. The 3/4" model is clearly full-port.

Dan Lanciani
ddl@danlan.*com

On May 24, 11:43*pm, ddl@danlan.*com (Dan Lanciani) wrote:
In article , (Comboverfish) writes:
| Hi,
|
| I was hopeing some of you could shed personal opinion on my decision
| to buy either stop or ball valves for the below detailed purpose.
|
| I have/had several previously installed sillcocks in our house that
| have no shutoff valves ahead of them. *One of them froze and burst
| last year so I went out and grabbed the first water flow control
| valves I could find at the HW store, unfortunately they are gate
| valves, and by design they leak somewhat in fully closed position.

Interesting. *I didn't realize this.

| Now I want to replace them with something that will work 100%. *Here's
| the quandry:
|
| With a rubber sealed type stop valve I could take out the mechanism
| and repair it for many years to come, but in theory they restrict flow
| somewhat.

You could always step up a size. *I use 3/4" globe valves for nominally
1/2" sillcocks.

| With a Ball valve, they don't restrict flow as much, but are not
| serviceable (the ones I've seen) short of desolder/replace. *Added
| bonus is the 1/4 turn ease.

Take a look at Apollo/Conbraco Pipe Master ball valves. *They have in
effect a union on each end so you can replace the body. *(I'm sure
that wasn't their main goal, but it's a nice side effect.) *I was really
down on ball valves since most of those (professionally) installed in
my house a few years ago have failed, generally in the sense that they
no longer shut off fully. *At least with Pipe Master replacement isn't
such a pain.

Two issues with Pipe Master (other than high price): *they don't have
drain ports and while they all claim to be full-port the 1/2" model
doesn't look it. *The 3/4" model is clearly full-port.

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Dan Lanciani
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * ddl@danlan..*com

Thanks for the ideas. I'll look into Pipemaster tomorrow, otherwise
the 3/4 stop valve idea sounds just fine.

BTW, something happened when I tried to fix a couple errors in my
post, so there's two threads now about the same thing. I posted, left
the house, came back, and the original send page was still hanging,
resubmitted the form and now there are two, except the first only
appears as your reply. Strange.