Does anyone have tips on how to fill the gaps between the molding and
wall since a flat wall does not exist?
We've tried using various types of caulk which does work great but its
a magnet for dust that sticks and is
very hard to get off.

Thanks

On 5/24/2008 11:31 AM spake thus:

Does anyone have tips on how to fill the gaps between the molding and
wall since a flat wall does not exist? We've tried using various
types of caulk which does work great but its a magnet for dust that
sticks and is very hard to get off.

So far as the dust-magnet problem goes, it shouldn't really matter what
you use to fill the gap, as it should ultimately be covered by paint (so
whatever you use needs to be paintable).


--
The best argument against democracy is a five-minute
conversation with the average voter.

- Attributed to Winston Churchill

On May 24, 11:47*am, David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 5/24/2008 11:31 AM spake thus:

Does anyone have tips on how to fill the gaps between the molding and
wall since a flat wall does not exist? We've tried using various
types of caulk which does work great but its a magnet for dust that
sticks and is very hard to get off.

So far as the dust-magnet problem goes, it shouldn't really matter what
you use to fill the gap, as it should ultimately be covered by paint (so
whatever you use needs to be paintable).

--
The best argument against democracy is a five-minute
conversation with the average voter.

- Attributed to Winston Churchill

We're thinking about switching to a wood look instead of painted, do
you have to do you varathain the caulk?

On 5/24/2008 11:48 AM spake thus:

On May 24, 11:47 am, David Nebenzahl wrote:

On 5/24/2008 11:31 AM spake thus:

Does anyone have tips on how to fill the gaps between the molding and
wall since a flat wall does not exist? We've tried using various
types of caulk which does work great but its a magnet for dust that
sticks and is very hard to get off.

So far as the dust-magnet problem goes, it shouldn't really matter what
you use to fill the gap, as it should ultimately be covered by paint (so
whatever you use needs to be paintable).

We're thinking about switching to a wood look instead of painted, do
you have to do you varathain the caulk?

If by "wood look" you mean unpainted, varnished wood, then the caulk or
filler should probably be painted the same color as the adjacent wall.
It'll look funny (read: bad) if you try to varnish it.

Of course, it all depends on the width and geometry of the gap. But if
the gap is more or less consistent along the molding, then it should
just be painted to blend into the wall.


--
The best argument against democracy is a five-minute
conversation with the average voter.

- Attributed to Winston Churchill

wrote:

Does anyone have tips on how to fill the gaps between the molding and
wall since a flat wall does not exist?
We've tried using various types of caulk which does work great but its
a magnet for dust that sticks and is
very hard to get off.

Thanks


Paintable caulk. Finish with either paint or clear finish, same as
wall/molding.

On Sat, 24 May 2008 16:21:11 -0400, Norminn
wrote:

wrote:

Does anyone have tips on how to fill the gaps between the molding and
wall since a flat wall does not exist?
We've tried using various types of caulk which does work great but its
a magnet for dust that sticks and is
very hard to get off.

Thanks


Paintable caulk. Finish with either paint or clear finish, same as
wall/molding.

I have used strips of wood to fill some gaps that are too open for
caulk. Some molding can follow a crooked wall more than others. Best
to be fussy with crown molding, as it will always be easily seen by
everyone.

Does anyone have tips on how to fill the gaps between the molding and
wall since a flat wall does not exist? We've tried using various
types of caulk which does work great but its a magnet for dust that
sticks and is very hard to get off.

So far as the dust-magnet problem goes, it shouldn't really matter what
you use to fill the gap, as it should ultimately be covered by paint (so
whatever you use needs to be paintable).

We're thinking about switching to a wood look instead of painted, do
you have to do you varathain the caulk?

If you already have a gap problem with painted molding, switching to wood
will just make a worse.

I have put up crown molding in every room, and replaced all the baseboards
in my home. I buy DAP Elastomeric caulk. I caulk the joint, push it in
with a finger, then take a sharp putty knife and scrape the joint. Since
there is some shrinkage if there is a big gap, I do it again. After
painting, it is a perfect joint every time.

But even before that, scribing and light planing helps when installing it to
minimize any imperfections in the walls.

On May 24, 4:27*pm, "Buck Turgidson" wrote:
Does anyone have tips on how to fill the gaps between the molding and
wall since a flat wall does not exist? We've tried using various
types of caulk which does work great but its a magnet for dust that
sticks and is very hard to get off.

So far as the dust-magnet problem goes, it shouldn't really matter what
you use to fill the gap, as it should ultimately be covered by paint (so
whatever you use needs to be paintable).

We're thinking about switching to a wood look instead of painted, do
you have to do you varathain the caulk?

If you already have a gap problem with painted molding, switching to wood
will just make a worse.

I have put up crown molding in every room, and replaced all the baseboards
in my home. *I buy DAP Elastomeric caulk. *I caulk the joint, push it in
with a finger, then take a sharp putty knife and scrape the joint. *Since
there is some shrinkage if there is a big gap, I do it again. *After
painting, it is a perfect joint every time.

But even before that, scribing and light planing helps when installing it to
minimize any imperfections in the walls.

just to clarify, these are baseboards. Ive tried using the
recommended glue and it didnt work well
so I will nail it. Sanding down the wall could be a good solution

On May 24, 1:31*pm, wrote:
Does anyone have tips on how to fill the gaps between the molding and
wall since a flat wall does not exist?
We've tried using various types of caulk which does work great but its
a magnet for dust that sticks and is
very hard to get off.

Thanks

It's far easier to mix up a bit of drywall compound and make the
bottom of the wall flat where the baseboard installs. Pro drywallers
do this routinely. If they didn't, the finish carpenters would walk
off the job and drywallers would get called back to do it over free.
Simply use a good long straightedge and mud and sand to a flat level
line and your prepainted base mold should look fine without touch up.
HTH

Joe

wrote

Does anyone have tips on how to fill the gaps between the molding and
wall since a flat wall does not exist?
We've tried using various types of caulk which does work great but its
a magnet for dust that sticks and is very hard to get off.

Would drywall mudd work?

On 5/25/2008 9:10 AM cshenk spake thus:

wrote

Does anyone have tips on how to fill the gaps between the molding and
wall since a flat wall does not exist?
We've tried using various types of caulk which does work great but its
a magnet for dust that sticks and is very hard to get off.

Would drywall mudd work?

"Mudd"? You mean like Roger Mudd?


--
The best argument against democracy is a five-minute
conversation with the average voter.

- Attributed to Winston Churchill

Would drywall mudd work?

Yep, mud and a "finger", then smooth with a wet sponge while still soft